Chat - The Official Las Vegas/Southern Nevada Chat Thread - Page 2528 - JeepForum.com

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post #37906 of 41819 Old 06-19-2014, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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When doing a coolant back flush should I drain the radiator (leave the block full) then add the cleaning chemicals and water to the rad and mix with the existing coolant in the block, is that okay?

Also does it make sense to do that and then drive it around for a few days with the cleaning crap in there, THEN drain the block and radiator and do a hose water flush?


-Andrew

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post #37907 of 41819 Old 06-19-2014, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Also, is water pump failure common after flushing?

-Andrew

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post #37908 of 41819 Old 06-19-2014, 03:20 PM
sirhk100
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I've always bought that hose flush kit and just followed the directions which I don't remember off the top of my head but I probably have at home. I've never had a failure after, then again, I'm usually flushing cause of the failure that had just occurred! LOL


This reminds me, I think I need to do a thermostat in my exploder soon. When starting it cold/ambient temp, the engine warms up, temp gauge climbs almost to a scary level and then instantly drops to normal. I'm guessing the stat is sticking closed a bit longer then it should and then eventually opens. I know most stats fail to the full open position for engine safety reasons but mine is possibly sticking closed for like a minute or two longer then it should allowing the temps to sky before dropping to normal. Exploder gauges just say "normal" rather then actual numbers. My needle is normally right between "noRMal" but when it does this, the needle gets basically to the "L" and then drops to the middle position where it should be. It can go well past the letters but still, it shouldn't... Maybe this weekend I'll knock that out... Cheap part and pretty easy... Slap it on the to do list I guess!

Khris

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post #37909 of 41819 Old 06-19-2014, 05:32 PM
B0nez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksturgio
we've never been allowed to drive trucks on the weekend but i could at least keep up with traffic before. We get in trouble for driving normally and enjoying the ride..
fify
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post #37910 of 41819 Old 06-19-2014, 05:33 PM
matthew900
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When it comes to buying something like that for me I know I'm going to tear it up appearance wise so I'm always shopping for a vehicle that's cheap so I'm not depreciating a nice vehicle.

And yes, I shop for tools I plan to trash at harbor freight but I learned my lesson quickly on complex tools, which is why I sold the harbor freight welder and bought a Lincoln.
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post #37911 of 41819 Old 06-19-2014, 05:42 PM
B0nez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksturgio
Anyone interested in exploring around Overton? I haven't been out there since I can remember and I'm trying to scout out some bird hunting spots.
When?
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post #37912 of 41819 Old 06-19-2014, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthew900
When it comes to buying something like that for me I know I'm going to tear it up appearance wise so I'm always shopping for a vehicle that's cheap so I'm not depreciating a nice vehicle. And yes, I shop for tools I plan to trash at harbor freight but I learned my lesson quickly on complex tools, which is why I sold the harbor freight welder and bought a Lincoln.
You could always just, ya know, not beat it up.

I drove my TJ and wheeled it fairly hard ( nothing ridiculous but probably harder than a lot of people) and it was pretty as hell.

Again the wag gets used, no where near as hard as the TJ, but I don't beat on it.

Not every vehicle you own has to get beat on the trail lol. And if you feel otherwise then you are just not going to buy a nice vehicle, which has nothing to do with the value of said vehicle , it has to do with you wanting something you can beat for cheap.

It's all just different strokes for different folks. Some people use their crap hard and it shows, some of us use it lightly, others don't even use it. Some of us are more concerned with using it, others are more concerned with preserving it or how it looks. As I have always said, different strokes for different folks

-Andrew

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post #37913 of 41819 Old 06-19-2014, 07:28 PM
ksturgio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B0nez
When?
i was hoping this Saturday but I have a wedding to attend. I want to check out Overton and probably around searchlight another weekend. I need to pick up a new guzzler map since mine is MIA.
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post #37914 of 41819 Old 06-19-2014, 08:05 PM
B0nez
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I think it would be fun to tag along, and if it turns out to be a Saturday afternoon/evening I am in but I work Saturday mornings so it may not be an option for me
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post #37915 of 41819 Old 06-19-2014, 09:17 PM
sirhk100
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Marn, just to clarify... Tonight I'm concerned with max travel. It's not a jeep thing though so some may not understand but like you said, different strokes for different folks. But to document what I'm talking about... Here's some evidence...

Only thing "mocked up" in these pictures are the lower shock mount on the bypass shock. It's where it will be but it's obviously not in it's final mounts. That'll happen sat. So in this picture you can see both shocks fully bottomed with a bit of shock shaft still showing. I don't want my shocks to actually bottom out. If you look to the left down the beam you see the hydro bump compressed and the secondary failsafe bumpstop both contacting the beam.



This may be hard to read but... If you want to look at the bottom of the rotor, it reads 22" and the lower part of the center diameter of the hub area is reading about 25-3/4".



Now here is fully drooped out... sorta...



Why "sorta"? well, the bypass shock is the droop limiter right now until I get a limit strap and well, it's still got 1/2" of extension. The hold up though is... well...



the concrete floor. So some common sense if you wanna call the floor 0"... 22" at the bottom of the rotor - 0" = 22" of travel. Double check the math using the numbers based off that lower part of the center hub if you like. LOL

Did I mention I'm expecting more then that in the rear and 400ish hp? I may be a granny on the street but I'm a bit scared of what this thing might be capable of in the dirt!

Khris

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post #37916 of 41819 Old 06-20-2014, 01:12 AM
Puck81
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Ok Khris, I now hate you(not really). After checking out the pictures you posted and watching youtube until my head hurts, I now know what direction to take my Ranger. But first, before I lock it in place, I would like to take a ride in the hooptie. I think your Explorer is a good benchmark for my ranger. Same engine, same-ish wheel base, same suspension set up(kinda). After some mild research, I think I may be onto my path, but need to pick your brain to work out my details.

My XJ now has its path I will build it on, so now it's time to map out my Danger Ranger(sorry to pinch the name Andrew).
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post #37917 of 41819 Old 06-20-2014, 06:32 AM
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We can go out to hollywood right here by my house sometime if you want? Even this weekend... The one problem between my explorer and a ranger that is HUGE is the rear suspension. The frame rails in the rear and the way the leafs are setup on a ranger are much better then my explorer. The issue is without getting really crazy on an explorer, you don't get a lot of up travel and it REALLY hinders the performance at speed. You guys have seen it crawl and it does good articulating for what it is but straight up and down hits it kinda sucks in the back. But... It does still do pretty good, don't get me wrong... But a ranger with a good setup like what Andy has in mind for his dream truck which really isn't anything that exotic or outrageous would blow your mind compared to my exploder. But yeah, as far as a ride, pretty much whenever... I can't tonight but could do it sometime this weekend even if you wanted. Just let me know. I'm curious what you've got in mind for a ranger build? I'm assuming it's 2wd right? If so, unless you're going full on crazy and linking the rear, I'd steal Andy's plans front to back personally but sub 2wd stuff up front for his 4wd stuff. I see cheap used badass beam kits for sale on the classifieds all the time! You know... Like these...

http://www.dezertrangers.com/vb/part...ies/218473.htm

We could build you a equal length swing steering setup for probably about $800 at the absolute most, most likely less but I'm going high side worst case...

Or if you want a more simple install... Go unequal length beams...

http://www.race-dezert.com/classifie...tails&id=73860

And the single swing setup like I did on my exploder is probably about $600 at absolute worst case!!! More like $400 in reality but again, guessing excessively high just to be safe.


Off topic... If you have time, good video of a pretty epic wreck in the middle of this clip!!! Tons of angles covering it! The car flew so nice!!!! Right up until it didn't... LOL

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWOANXNGrZc

Khris

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post #37918 of 41819 Old 06-20-2014, 08:20 AM
sirhk100
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Here you weirdos go... A friend of mine down in bullhead is selling his ride...

Quote:
For sale or trade is my 5 ton. My HOA doesn't like it so any trades have to be "no
larger than a pickup truck". Allison 5 speed automatic trans, Cummins 8.3 diesel engine, 6 wheel drive, has troop seats, top bows, and vinyl troop cover (ripped but repairable). Gets 6-8 mpg, runs perfect and everything functions. Has 30k on odometer but was rebuilt at the Red Army Depo less than 1000 miles ago. $7500 or trade up or down. I like shiny things that make loud noises.







Khris

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post #37919 of 41819 Old 06-20-2014, 08:52 AM
Raptor0206
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post #37920 of 41819 Old 06-20-2014, 10:50 AM
Puck81
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Yep, 2wd. I do want to link it in the rear later down the road, but for now, I will use leaf springs. 2.5" rear Devers are like $800 a pair though.
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