I have checked all fittings. None are leaking and as said no air was present in the system when bleeding.
The MC and booster were reman units. From what I have seen and read, not terribly uncommon for them to be DOA
On the race truck I messed with it and messed with it and messed with it and couldn't for the life of me get pedal when i put the new setup in it. Then my uncle comes over. Has me grab the engine hoist and I lift the rear of the truck a few feet into the air. We then bleed the brakes and they've worked perfectly ever since. The way the master sat it allowed for an air pocket to be trapped up past the line so with it sitting at ride it was not able to ever bleed out. Now granted, I didn't bench bleed the master cylinders when I did it.
Depending how your master is mounted, eventhough you bench bled is it possible something similar could be happening?
Anybody have any idea how to get spray foam packing material residue off a texture powder coated part?
Btw, Or-Fab's customer service sucks. Not only are these parts one that were missing in the original packaging, they are the wrong powder coat and are now all jacked up because they didn't wrap them properly before shipping them. On top of that i had to wait almost three weeks for the missing parts. That will be the last Or-Fab product I buy.
LOL, I've been cruising the forums at work to much myself as well due to boredom
I found a late 80's XJ that runs and drives with the 6 cylinder, auto trany, and 4x4 for only $600. My friend needs a car so I'm going to let them have it for the $600 or keep it if they decide to pass on it. I've been contemplating buying an XJ to build a stock class Jeep Speed race truck. Worst case scenario is they don't want it, I decide not to build a race truck, and I just fix it up and flip it for a profit.
So I still don't have brakes. I bled the system on Monday and they didnt work well.
I redid the bleed last night. I ran almost a full quart of fluid through it all by gravity.
Same issue. Pedal is spongy but doesn't go all the way to the floor without vacuum. With vacuum the pedal goes to the floor and the truck doesn't stop well.
I also have a pedal that is slow to return so I suspect a faulty booster. However the brakes should work regardless of that.
I will be re-bench bleeding the MC tonight or tomorrow (tonight is the night of fire at the bullring) and if that doesn't fix it, it's gotta be a bad MC and or booster.
I personally have never had a lot of success with gravity bleeding, I have always used pressure bleeding (one person working the pedal, one working the wrench) and found success where the gravity bleed didn’t work. Not saying that this is your issue, but something to consider next time you decide to bleed it. BTW - I would be happy to help with this if you need.
Originally Posted by ksturgio
Also sorry for posting so much lately I've been getting pretty sick of my job.
^^^^ Yup, that's exactly how I grew up doing it. I actually never pump the pedal between close and open on the bleeder either. I have bleeder opened, press down pedal, hold till bleeder is closed, slowly let up, repeat... I never do the pump thing that a lot of people do. Typically have never had an issue with it either.
Well, regardless, there has been zero air bubbles in the lines.
If somebody wants to come over tomorrow and school me on it, i'd be happy to do all the hard work and use you as my helper.
Regardless of the soft pedal, i'm pretty sure i have a booster problem if not a mc problem too. Apparently getting a bum booster or MC from A1 Cardone isnt uncommon. ****ty thing is I have to remove the MC and the booster and mail them back to rock auto before they will sent a replacement, so i cannot tell if it's just the booster or the MC too. I guess i could go buy a MC for 17 bucks and throw that on the booster and mail it back, or bleed it and install it on my booster and see if that makes a difference, to eliminate the MC as the problem?