I figured since the other thread started out as talking about making a club, and what clubs are available, we should have a thread that's just dedicated to setting up trail runs.
The title says it all, and it'll be less cluttered.
So, the 9/18/10 Run to Potato Ridge was a success!
Next item on the schedule is Logandale on 10/23/10 according to McRoberts. Seems like we have a few interested parties! Who all is planning to attend?
If there is anything in the meantime, or someone local wants another rig to ride with them, just post up and see if anyone is available!
Thanks for the reply bonez... Noted on yours not having them.
As for the wish list...
ours should take a pretty legit hit but I'm not willing to go so far as to say ours will be the strongest/gnarliest on the market. While ours is substantially stronger then stock, people like Matthew should probably go with the fabricated monsters that are on the market. LOL
fill plug should be very easy access. Drain, yeah, not so much since there isn't one. LOL
We discussed both options but felt 99% of people probably wouldn't use the feature either way so why add the cost.
Got that covered. Our bolts are actually recessed.
What is she looking for? 4cyl/6cyl? Soft/hard top? A/C or not? Standard or auto? You say stock is probably best, but if it isn't, is that a deal breaker? There are a LOT of wranglers available in that price range, but perhaps not what she wants..
She's actually pretty open to whatever. She doesn't need a specific top. If I were to say though, being auto and having AC are the musts. Doesn't have to be 100% bone stock but she doesn't need a built crawler. Biggest thig is that its in good shape overall. She's not a mechanic and it'll be a daily driver.
LOL, my diff covers actually don't take too much abuse except for the very bottom edge. I would recommend a thicker metal at the bottom. If you really want a hit read this and use it as a guide for design issues with current products on the market:
The problem TJ's are seeing is that there is very little room between the track bar and the diff cover. Most of the cast covers are just as thick at the top as the bottom which is causing interference with the track bar at the top. This is one of the reasons many people are forced to bump stop a couple inches because otherwise their diff cover smashes into the track bar. Normally it is an aftermarket cover and/or adjustable track bar that is causing the issue. I actually had to pull my front axle back about 1/2 an inch to clear the taskbar due to the thick OX locker covers. I strongly recommend you look at a design that tapers down to a close to stock clearance for the top half with a really beefy bottom half. In the TJ crowd you could sell it on clearance and outside of that crowd you could sell it on the reduced weight since you don't need near as much protection at the top.
LOL, my diff covers actually don't take too much abuse except for the very bottom edge. I would recommend a thicker metal at the bottom. If you really want a hit read this and use it as a guide for design issues with current products on the market:
The problem TJ's are seeing is that there is very little room between the track bar and the diff cover. Most of the cast covers are just as thick at the top as the bottom which is causing interference with the track bar at the top. This is one of the reasons many people are forced to bump stop a couple inches because otherwise their diff cover smashes into the track bar. Normally it is an aftermarket cover and/or adjustable track bar that is causing the issue. I actually had to pull my front axle back about 1/2 an inch to clear the taskbar due to the thick OX locker covers. I strongly recommend you look at a design that tapers down to a close to stock clearance for the top half with a really beefy bottom half. In the TJ crowd you could sell it on clearance and outside of that crowd you could sell it on the reduced weight since you don't need near as much protection at the top.
You should have paid more attention to the blue LJ I built that was in front of you at the marathon. You would have seen all the cool little tricks TJ/LJ's suffer from that I have addressed including those covers.
And just a recommendation, put your axle back where it belongs and give the track bar a very slight kiss in a press and it will work just fine (this will work with stock, Currie, JKS ect..). I have been doing them that way for a long time for diff clearance. I even have a trick for making the Currie HD steering work on a stock height rig without bottoming the tie-rod end.
She's actually pretty open to whatever. She doesn't need a specific top. If I were to say though, being auto and having AC are the musts. Doesn't have to be 100% bone stock but she doesn't need a built crawler. Biggest thig is that its in good shape overall. She's not a mechanic and it'll be a daily driver.
anybody have an idea on scrap value for 3 axles? I figure its gotta be like 600-700 pounds of whatever the hell type of metal they are. steel and iron?
anybody have an idea on scrap value for 3 axles? I figure its gotta be like 600-700 pounds of whatever the hell type of metal they are. steel and iron?
Nothing. Scrap has gone down a crap ton in the last 6 months. I scrapped out that YJ frame, steering box and a bunch of other crap and got like 30 bucks for the steel. I had 2 radiators I got more money for then the whole truck load of steel.
For comparison, about 8 months ago, this paid $240, it even ran if you just put a set of fuel injectors in it since I sold them to the neighbor kid! LOL
You should have paid more attention to the blue LJ I built that was in front of you at the marathon. You would have seen all the cool little tricks TJ/LJ's suffer from that I have addressed including those covers.
And just a recommendation, put your axle back where it belongs and give the track bar a very slight kiss in a press and it will work just fine (this will work with stock, Currie, JKS ect..). I have been doing them that way for a long time for diff clearance. I even have a trick for making the Currie HD steering work on a stock height rig without bottoming the tie-rod end.
I'm aware of the barnett, it's mentioned in that thread, but I didn't want to say "go copy those guys."
My issue isn't just the curve in the bar or the bar itself, it's also the joint at the end of the track bar. When it comes to the curve of the bar clearing diff covers the stock one is superior to the aftermarket options and due to my low lift height I don't need an adjustable one. The OX cover is unusually thick and the fitting where the auto locker actuation line goes into the cover hits the joint at the end of the track bar. There is no bending anything to clear that. The options are cut and move the track bar mount or pull back the axel a little. I'm not going to miss 1/2 inch from the wheelbase so moving he axel was the easiest solution.
I'm not a try it and see what happens kind of guy, I do a ton of research before making any kind of change on my rig. The fact I ride it hard means I have to be that much more vigilant in my build process.
For comparison, about 8 months ago, this paid $240, it even ran if you just put a set of fuel injectors in it since I sold them to the neighbor kid! LOL
My first thought was "that's hilarious; I'm trying it on Blair when I get home." My second thought was that position would just end up making the kick that would follow a little too easy for her...
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Jeep Enthusiast Forums
18.5M posts
726.7K members
Since 2000
A forum community dedicated to all jeep owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, engine swaps, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!