No....now you have altered the link separation so you must move the uppers.....it's not that easy.
Here is mine......one would think that with the rocks my Jeep actually sees, I would have been crazy to leave my lower mounts below the axle centerline...........
I didn't say that's all there is to do, I just think the rear is easier to fix than the front. I spent a lot of time on a 4-link calculator before I did anything. And yes, I adjusted my uppers for vertical separation as well.
Something I have never really looked into but is very evident in this picture is frame side control arm seperation. How much of an effect does it have? If I were at home right now I would plug some numbers into the 4 link calculator.
Originally Posted by Hendrix
No one really knows the reason for LCOG Jeeps.
Its so short ****s like me and you can still get in.
Originally Posted by 2ACR
My issue was I couldn't get the balls centered. I had to use some extra force to get everything lined up right. It didn't take me long.
LOL, Ricky, just gotta keep it on 4 wheels and it should do okay!!! Race day is actually a bit easier to drive cause you get going and get in a groove and settle down. Survive like the first 10 minutes and then you're just in a zone driving within your means. Cameras come out though or giving test rides and you tend to try to hit stuff a little different. Actually on the test rides I gave Sat, I wasn't going race pace. That whoop section where I balled it up, I definitely went into hotter then norm for the cameras. LOL damn those cameras!!!
Does it matter much on jeeps? someone mentioned moving that lower control arm axle mount up further more inline with the center of the axle. Doing this puts A LOT more load on the upper mounts. Basically it puts virtually 100% of the twisting force to the upper rather then spreading the load. Maybe it's not a big deal in jeeps but on the go fast stuff with the beating and constant on/off forces pounding thru whoops it's harsh and wears parts and has even ripped mounts off axles that I've seen. Is it a concern on the jeep stuff?
It's also interesting the difference in relation to upper and lower control arm mounts on the jeep vs. how I setup my truck. It looks like your upper and lower arms are almost the same length and are mounted almost directly above/below each other. You can see here, mine definitely are not.
Here from the side you can obviously see my lower frame mounts and the upper frame mounts are right behind the cab. Drastically different in locations. I get 2 degrees of pinion change over 24" and about an inch of plunge on my shaft which is fine cause of how my shaft was built with the slip in it rather then at the yoke.
BTW, I didn't use a link calculator at all on this. I just used cad to figure out my locations and then the challenging part is finding those places in space in real life on the truck and hoping they aren't physically blocked when you find them.
It actually has a greater effect than axle side. I can't remember all my calculations now though I have them written down, but raising or lowering the frame side upper is the easiest way to change your anti-squat numbers. On mine, raising the frame side upper control arm one inch will reduce the anti-squat by %25 or so.
Off hand, I don't remember where mine is setup squat wise but I'm happy with how it turned out. The rear suspension is definitely not my performance limiting factor on my truck! It will probably be scary if it gets to the point that my front suspension can out run my rear! I'm happy that on accel it droops the rear and lifts the front. I want the front to skip across and let the rear do the work. All the weight and crap I don't want to break is up front so the more the rear is doing the happier I am! LOL
Those of you with fb.... If you're interested in seeing a pretty gruesome example of not using seat belts click here. Pretty sure the first dude coming out already had his arm ripped off by that point and it sure looks like a leg that's laying on the ground at the very end.
Okay, so i dropped the coin and got them warn premium hubs.
When I opened the box and was playing with them, one seemed really stiff, like it wouldnt turn freely, and it had to "pop" into "free" and "lock" When I put them on the axle, one turns nice and smooth but the other got worse, it requires a ton of force to pop it all the way in either direction. I kept skinning my knuckle because of how hard I had to turn it.
I figured most manufacturers prefer to handle stuff like this (a lot of products say not to return it to the retailer, but contact the manufacturer directly).
I wrote an email explaining it in detail, and this was the response from warn:
You best bet would be to return the hubs back to the place of purchase under warranty for a new set.
Alrighty then, back to amazon they go. should have my replacements on thursday.