Chat - The Official Las Vegas/Southern Nevada Chat Thread - Page 1415 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Four Wheeling Forums > Wheelin' Neighborhood > South West USA > Nevada Jeep Forum > Chat - The Official Las Vegas/Southern Nevada Chat Thread

Currie Antirock, Currectlync & Lift Kits on Sale!Oconee Off-Road Free Shipping Lifts Tires Bumpers Tops andIntroducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line

Reply
Unread 02-11-2013, 07:40 AM   #21211
PhotoJared
Registered User
1999 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 1,562
It was me, allthough I am no longer there. Can I answer some questions for you?

__________________
'99 XJ Sport
RE 3.5"
31s
other stuff
PhotoJared is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-11-2013, 10:02 AM   #21212
sirhk100
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 5,405
Andy, it's silica... Basically it's glass that is used as a scavenging agent to push impurities out of the weld. Use a wire brush or chipping hammer to knock it out. It won't hurt anything if you leave it other then if you paint over it, it could pop off down the road and then you'll have a bare metal spot there to start rusting. Different wires have different amounts of silica in them and sometimes you don't even see it, sometimes you see a ton of it. Depends on the wire.

Put two pieces of metal and practice on that. Most of the time I'd think you'd be welding two things together, not just welding on a flat surface unless you think you'll be repairing a lot of cracks?

Also, with fluxcore, make sure you're watching right at the arc, it's hard to see but most of what you're seeing is actually the flux while you weld with that stuff, if you watch right at the arc and just a tiny bit behind it though you'll see the metal puddle itself.
__________________
Khris

http://www.facebook.com/pages/TPF-Racing/255393361194429
sirhk100 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-11-2013, 10:16 AM   #21213
Dr. Marneaus
Station Wagoneer
 
Dr. Marneaus's Avatar
1973 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 10,601
Quote:
Originally Posted by adams1985cj View Post
We could let our powers unite!!! And take out the wranglers!
well, at least our combined weight could take them out, haha.
__________________
-Andrew

Illegitimi Non Carborundum


The Beast Build Thread: Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread ----- The Camper Build Thread: Marns 1980 Jayco JayFinch6 Build Thread

Dr. Marneaus is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-11-2013, 10:21 AM   #21214
sirhk100
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 5,405
BTW, anyone with a JK looking to put a tube like prerunner bar on the front with a prerunner type skidplate, please don't do it! It looks horrible!!! Saw one yesterday and it looked as outta place as a supermodel eating at sizzler.
__________________
Khris

http://www.facebook.com/pages/TPF-Racing/255393361194429
sirhk100 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-11-2013, 10:25 AM   #21215
sirhk100
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 5,405
Hey Garza, is this that truck that was out there testing that first day we took our truck out testing? If so, looks like Daddy got mad I guess? LOL I don't remember the sheet metal in the rear but the rest looks the same and the specs sound right...

http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/3599883096.html
__________________
Khris

http://www.facebook.com/pages/TPF-Racing/255393361194429
sirhk100 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-11-2013, 10:25 AM   #21216
andy02
Registered User
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lost Wages, NV
Posts: 3,716
Quote:
Originally Posted by sirhk100 View Post
Andy, it's silica... Basically it's glass that is used as a scavenging agent to push impurities out of the weld. Use a wire brush or chipping hammer to knock it out. It won't hurt anything if you leave it other then if you paint over it, it could pop off down the road and then you'll have a bare metal spot there to start rusting. Different wires have different amounts of silica in them and sometimes you don't even see it, sometimes you see a ton of it. Depends on the wire.

Put two pieces of metal and practice on that. Most of the time I'd think you'd be welding two things together, not just welding on a flat surface unless you think you'll be repairing a lot of cracks?

Also, with fluxcore, make sure you're watching right at the arc, it's hard to see but most of what you're seeing is actually the flux while you weld with that stuff, if you watch right at the arc and just a tiny bit behind it though you'll see the metal puddle itself.
Thanks Khris. I was using L-56 wire which has a high silica level. I was actually just doing the passes because it has been a long time since I have welded anything and wanted to see what my passes looked like. I have never actually MIG welded anything before. All of my experience come from stick welding.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendrix
No one really knows the reason for LCOG Jeeps.

Its so short ****s like me and you can still get in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ACR View Post
My issue was I couldn't get the balls centered. I had to use some extra force to get everything lined up right. It didn't take me long.


September 11 2001
Never Forget!
andy02 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-11-2013, 10:29 AM   #21217
ksturgio
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 2,838
Khris what brand pipe bender do you recommend? I was looking around online and some seem to have bad reviews like harbor freight And a couple of fab companies. Just wondered what your thoughts were.
ksturgio is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-11-2013, 10:30 AM   #21218
sirhk100
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 5,405
I'm not sure why I thought you were welding with fluxcore, just dawned on me you have a gas bottle with that setup... I was thinking to myself that you did a great job cleaning off the slag yet didn't get the glass off and that's weird! But yeah, it's monday morning, I'm a bit slow. Had a rough day of doing absolutely nothing yesterday so I'm still trying to recover!!! Yeah, you heard that right, I did NOTHING and it was glorious!!! I seriously watched walking dead ALL DAY LONG from wakeup to bed time! LOL

I don't know a whole lot about the wires but I do know that typically wires with a high silica content are better for dirtier rustier metal. I've honestly never paid attention to it. I used to run either the wire from Ace hardware or harbor freight honestly and never had issues. I've recently started running whatever they hand me at my local welding supply shop though cause the price I get is cheaper then harbor freight! LOL I buy under my work account and just pay cash...
__________________
Khris

http://www.facebook.com/pages/TPF-Racing/255393361194429
sirhk100 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-11-2013, 10:31 AM   #21219
ksturgio
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 2,838
Quote:
Originally Posted by andy02

Thanks Khris. I was using L-56 wire which has a high silica level. I was actually just doing the passes because it has been a long time since I have welded anything and wanted to see what my passes looked like. I have never actually MIG welded anything before. All of my experience come from stick welding.
Andy ill have to have you teach me how to use my huge *** stick welder. It's an old school miller buzz box and like I said big as hell.
ksturgio is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-11-2013, 10:35 AM   #21220
sirhk100
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 5,405
I personally use a JD2 bender and have zero complaints about it. The dies are a little bit expensive but they don't kink or mar the tubing. It's also a very common bender which is nice for borrowing dies from other people. It's a manual bender and 99% of the time it's not a big chore to bend by hand. Get into like 2" x .120 chromo or DOM doing 180 degree bends and you might work up a sweat but that's pretty rare.

The harbor freight pipe benders are only good up to like 25 degree bends before they start kinking the tubes from what I've heard. There's ways to get around that but it's a lot of extra labor.

If you're really on budget I've seen some interesting tricks to work with a JD2 type bender and get like a 2" or 1.75" die set and then you can sleeve it down for smaller diameter tubes. I've never done it but I've seen a lot of people having decent success doing that rather then buying another die set that might rarely be used.

If you pick up a JD2, I own 1.75", 1.5" and 1" dies and typically they're collecting dust. Keep the tube clean and use oil while bending so you don't trash my follower and you can borrow them if needed.

BTW, only thing that does suck about the manual benders is they have to physically be bolted down which kinda sucks. Hydro you can mount to a cart with casters or whatever and store it away. My bender is literally bolted to my driveway.

I think the JMR, Pro Tools and JD2 benders are all basically the same concept but they don't share dies. I went with JD2 cause it seemed like the most common and the same one friends had so borrowing dies until I could afford my own was easiest. The bender itself isn't really that expensive, it's the dies that will kick your wallets butt!


BTW, there's a difference in "pipe benders" and "tubing benders". Assuming you're not looking to do construction type stuff and are doing like bumpers, cages, etc... You want a "tubing bender". Some forums will make fun of you and rip you apart for saying Pipe instead of tube. Why? Cause people have no life I'm guessing but technically they are right. Personally, I sometimes intentionally tell people I'm shopping for pipe to cage my truck just to stir up the nest! LOL
__________________
Khris

http://www.facebook.com/pages/TPF-Racing/255393361194429
sirhk100 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-11-2013, 10:45 AM   #21221
sirhk100
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 5,405
Maybe I'll paint my bender stand after looking at this picture. LOL, it's not like it's never gonna be an eye sore but at least painted it might help a tiny bit! LOL


__________________
Khris

http://www.facebook.com/pages/TPF-Racing/255393361194429
sirhk100 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-11-2013, 10:50 AM   #21222
sirhk100
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 5,405
Oh andy, remember I was saying I was pissed cause just days before I bought Red I finally got pissed off enough at the wheels on the expo and pulled them off and spent 2 hours getting the front ones to seal finally and that they hadn't leaked at all in the last month or so it's been parked? Well yesterday I went out and fired it up to move it so I could run and get some food during my long day of nothing. I figured I'd drive the toyota since it hadn't moved since we used it to prerun with at the race a month ago. So I pull the expo out, pull the toyota out and actually just left he explorer sitting in the drive way idling while I ran down the road for 10 minutes. I come back home, park everything again and all good. So I come out this morning, driver side front tire is almost flat! Hadn't leaked in the last month sitting there but god forbid I move it 20 feet to give me room to pull the toyota out and now it's leaking!!! LOL

When I finally pull the wheels off to sell I've got one last idea to make them seal for the future owner but I'm not going to say crap while selling them. I'm just going to make an attempt to fix it and sell them hoping for the best. LOL Stupid beadlocks!!!!! My champion beadlocks on my toyota... I've never ever had an issue with them leaking! These KMC's I can't make stop leaking for some reason!
__________________
Khris

http://www.facebook.com/pages/TPF-Racing/255393361194429
sirhk100 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-11-2013, 10:51 AM   #21223
ksturgio
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 2,838
Well I did work construction and I will have to start calling it a tube bender. Cool I figure I may one up soon as I have finally started working on my jeep again. I have never really done much fab work but I'm sure I can learn.
Bolting it down won't be a problem either. I guess I will start shopping around for a JD2.
ksturgio is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-11-2013, 11:01 AM   #21224
sirhk100
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 5,405
Yeah, if you go JD2 I can save you some upfront cost with borrowing dies. I'll need my 1.75" die here and there over the next few months but not a whole ton honestly. On my expo build I'll probably need it for a day total (front shock mounts) and then whenever I get around to my toyota "if" I end up redoing the engine cage I'll need it a little there but that's not even 100%. After those, who knows how long they'll collect dust again. I'm guessing you aren't planning to use 2" anywhere on a Jeep related build? I had to borrow a 2" die for the race truck and only reason we went 2" is cause the rules forced it, every other truck I've built has been 1.75" cause none of them had rules to worry about building to.

Fab isn't that hard in my opinion. Just takes some forethought and planning to figure out what you want. A bunch of measuring and double checking stuff, etc... I honestly make most of my mistakes notching tubes wrong more then I do in the bends. Once you've notched it too short or notched at the wrong angle and the gap is too big to weld, it's done, try again... LOL

BTW, I just sold a pro tools tubing notcher about a month or two ago for $100. I didn't even think to see if anyone on here was interested. I didn't even like the guy that ended up buying it off me honestly! LOL It was a good little notcher, I just stumbled on a deal I couldn't pass up on one that I liked better so I upgraded.

Don't spend your money on a "pipemaster" for figuring out notches either. If you think that's something you might like and get use from, come borrow mine for a bit first and see if they help you. I've got one for 1.75" and 1.5" tubing and I've only used them once ever effectively. For me they're a kinda expensive novelty tool. Some people swear by them but I don't get much use in them. At the same time I'm not willing to sell them either for some reason. LOL But if you think you'd like them, borrow mine to try out first before spending the money on something you don't use like I did.

Start with mild steel tubing as it's a heck of a lot cheaper then DOM or Chromo and doesn't sting as much when you have to toss a piece of tube. LOL Although seems like most of the time you can find someplace else to cut up the wasted piece and use somewhere else in the build.

In my opinion welding and notching are the two hardest parts in doing tube work. That's just for me personally at least.

To me, tube, pipe, pOtato, potAto... Just know you want to actually be using "tubing" for cages and bumpers and stuff, not pipe. Other then that, it's just words...


www.trick-tools.com if you want to drool

Also, JD2 has fixed pricing, you really won't find deals on the bender or the dies price wise new. Best bet is to buy used if you can find them. As long as all the parts and pins are there, I don't see how you could end up getting screwed, they're kinda hard to hurt or damage. At least the benders themselves... The dies, the followers can get pretty marred up which will in turn scratch the outter surface of the bend if that's of any concern.
__________________
Khris

http://www.facebook.com/pages/TPF-Racing/255393361194429
sirhk100 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-11-2013, 11:03 AM   #21225
andy02
Registered User
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lost Wages, NV
Posts: 3,716
Quote:
Originally Posted by ksturgio View Post
Andy ill have to have you teach me how to use my huge *** stick welder. It's an old school miller buzz box and like I said big as hell.
Scott what welding stick do you use? For beginners, I suggest a 6013 or a 7014. They are the easiest to learn with and quite honestly unless you are a pipe fitter, probably the last rod you will ever need. 7014 produces a stronger weld with less slag but it is a little more difficult to strike an arc and you have to move more slowly causing you to burn through rods faster.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendrix
No one really knows the reason for LCOG Jeeps.

Its so short ****s like me and you can still get in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ACR View Post
My issue was I couldn't get the balls centered. I had to use some extra force to get everything lined up right. It didn't take me long.


September 11 2001
Never Forget!
andy02 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.