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post #20971 of 41803 Old 02-06-2013, 03:12 PM
ksturgio
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Sounds like you won't be bored this weekend.

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post #20972 of 41803 Old 02-06-2013, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
Dr. Marneaus
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It's running an aftermarket mechanical temp gauge.


I don't know anything about Chevys, but the temp probe is on the driver side, low on the side of the block, towards the front of the engine. On the head i think To me it sounds like that would be measuring the temp of the INCOMING coolant...and if the coolant is Entering the engine at 200 then there would definitely be a problem haha.

However I don't m ow and maybe that's where the coolant temp sensor is supposed to be on what was once a 307

Maybe I should get another gauge and drop on a thermostat housing that has a hole for a temp probe?

I mean, you're supposed to measure the outgoing coolant temp right? And the coolant exits the radiator at the bottom yes?

Edit: google shows alot of them are supposed to be located on the head.

-Andrew

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The Beast Build Thread: Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread ----- The Camper Build Thread: Marns 1980 Jayco JayFinch6 Build Thread

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post #20973 of 41803 Old 02-06-2013, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powrjunkey View Post
My bet is electrical, assuming the gauge is reading correctly. If the water pump isn't working, the gauge may be reading correctly, but not accurately. If the water pump isn't flowing, it would overheat to shutdown pretty quickly. With the radiator cap off and engine running, can you see when/if the thermostat is opening? If the thermostat isn't opening, it will overheat as well. Also check all connections that have anything to do with ignition. It's a pita, but some careful diagnoses will give you a better idea where to look. You can pretty much eliminate the carb and fuel as an issue as it did the same with either carb. Could be a feed issue with fuel line, but not likely.
no t-stat in there right now. takes a lil longer to warm bup, but the exact same thing happens.

-Andrew

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The Beast Build Thread: Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread ----- The Camper Build Thread: Marns 1980 Jayco JayFinch6 Build Thread

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post #20974 of 41803 Old 02-06-2013, 04:06 PM
B0nez
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Dang, I am NOT jealous of all the car issues you are having Marn, I wish I had some insight that hasn't already been offered but I don't. So if you need someone to laugh and point, hem and haw at appropriate times; let me know and I'll take care of it.

On a different but sorta related note; I am curious.. anyone have any idea how this guy keeps his engine running this long? Obviously the carb and fluid reservoirs have been changed out.. but what about the oil pan? BTW - If anyone wants to educate me on what I am doing wrong to make it so I can't properly link a youtube vid I would appreciate it. In the meantime, you can just click the title.

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post #20975 of 41803 Old 02-06-2013, 04:07 PM
gregaf3
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Most of the elelbrock manifolds have the temp sensor in the intake. This allows you to get an accurate temp reading of the coolant cycling through the engine when the thermostat is closed.



As far as not running a thermostat, I used to do it all the time in FL. After learning more and finding out that it does nothing what so ever to help the cooling system, it only hurts the warm up time. They are cheap enough that you can get a new one for under $10 so I honestly see no real reason not to use one.

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post #20976 of 41803 Old 02-06-2013, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
Dr. Marneaus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B0nez View Post
Dang, I am NOT jealous of all the car issues you are having Marn, I wish I had some insight that hasn't already been offered but I don't. So if you need someone to laugh and point, hem and haw at appropriate times; let me know and I'll take care of it.

On a different but sorta related note; I am curious.. how did this guy keep his engine running this long? Obviously the carb and fluid reservoirs have been changed out.. but what about the oil pan?

http://youtu.be/MubbIv5CKd0
well, no carb, its gotta be fuel injected. sounds alot like a diesel. so, nothing on there is stock.

he could easily have modified the oil pickup to take from the back of the pan or something.

-Andrew

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post #20977 of 41803 Old 02-06-2013, 04:10 PM
B0nez
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I figured as much for the carb.. it would HAVE to be injected. But what CAN you do to make an engine run at those angles with no problem?
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post #20978 of 41803 Old 02-06-2013, 04:23 PM
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Dry sump would be your best option to be safe...

Khris

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post #20979 of 41803 Old 02-06-2013, 04:26 PM
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Dry sump?

'99 XJ Sport
It has a lift
It has 31's
It also other stuff
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post #20980 of 41803 Old 02-06-2013, 04:43 PM
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dry sump systems are cool. Jared check this out Dry Sump System

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post #20981 of 41803 Old 02-06-2013, 05:21 PM
PhotoJared
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That was actually in response to Bonez' post, just posted late. I know what a dry sump system is lol.

'99 XJ Sport
It has a lift
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It also other stuff
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post #20982 of 41803 Old 02-06-2013, 06:13 PM
Puck81
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B0nez you rollin' Nelson on Sunday?

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post #20983 of 41803 Old 02-06-2013, 06:15 PM
Powrjunkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puck81
B0nez you rollin' Nelson on Sunday?

Sent from my Imagination
Level of difficulty? Don't want any damage before I trade mine.

The difference between stupidity and ignorance. Ignorance is doing something wrong and not knowing better. Stupidity is knowing better, but doing it anyway. Don't be stupid!
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post #20984 of 41803 Old 02-06-2013, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powrjunkey

Level of difficulty? Don't want any damage before I trade mine.
You'll be able to do it after ur lift is installed!
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post #20985 of 41803 Old 02-06-2013, 06:19 PM
Puck81
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So is it a ground clearance/wheel base thing there? I mean i have done it twice with minimal spoting and no stucks

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