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Unread 02-06-2013, 02:53 PM   #20956
MMCKEIG
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puck81

Awesome thanks

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It should fit, it's for a 31 but it has some room in it, it's better than nothing and it's free.

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Unread 02-06-2013, 03:00 PM   #20957
Dr. Marneaus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksturgio View Post
Ill drive it for you if you want. Just wait until you have to drop the tank because it is full of bad gas or you are driving down the road and get a heavy smell of gas and find that the gaskets in the carb have dried out and it is leaking gas all over. Oh the joys of living in the hot dry desert.
its still all messed up.

it acts like the accelerator pump is no good (hesistates on the throttle) even though we rebuilt the original carb, and then replaced the carb. After replacing it it was good for a month or two then started doing the same exact thing.

then the car shuts off when it hits 200*, no matter what. it starts sputtering and stumbling, then shuts off.

It's not overheating, it CANNOT be overheated at 200*. the radiator has never blown off. The stock operating temp was likely over 200* anyway, hell my jeeps stock operating temp is right around 210!!!! And it purrs like a kitten all the way up to 235, i've never had it above that.

then it'll start right back up and run right as rain as soon as its cool.

makes no sense.

I'm about to convert the stupid thing to HEI to see if that makes a difference.

It's got to be something ignition related. Like, the mallory unit inside the dizzy is getting hot and failing or something.
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Unread 02-06-2013, 03:07 PM   #20958
ksturgio
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When was the last time any ignition stuff was replaced? Sounds fishy if it runs ok after it cools down. I've got an old Chevy repair manual ill see if I can find it. I'm thinking coil could be subject or distributor.
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Unread 02-06-2013, 03:11 PM   #20959
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Oh the joys of living in the hot dry desert.
hence the reason I had to buy new hoses for my torches yesterday along with getting the bottles filled. The hoses dry rotted and fell apart just sitting in my shed!
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Unread 02-06-2013, 03:17 PM   #20960
Dr. Marneaus
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Originally Posted by ksturgio View Post
When was the last time any ignition stuff was replaced? Sounds fishy if it runs ok after it cools down. I've got an old Chevy repair manual ill see if I can find it. I'm thinking coil could be subject or distributor.
coil is new.

the dizzy is converted to a mallory unilite deal. no idea on the condition or status of that, or how old it is. but there aint no points in there no more.

if it were an original points dizzy it would be easier to diagnose, but somebody ran a stupid conversion in there and now im lost.

plus, a normal HEI dizzy wont fit without taking a BFH to the firewall.
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Unread 02-06-2013, 03:35 PM   #20961
ksturgio
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If some other person converted it, it may be worth replacing. I guess it could still be a fuel problem but I would think if that were the problem you would have noticed it before. Might be worth throwing a fuel pressure gauge in-line and see what it's doing.

Aren't old cars fun?
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Unread 02-06-2013, 03:38 PM   #20962
Dr. Marneaus
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Originally Posted by ksturgio View Post
If some other person converted it, it may be worth replacing. I guess it could still be a fuel problem but I would think if that were the problem you would have noticed it before. Might be worth throwing a fuel pressure gauge in-line and see what it's doing.

Aren't old cars fun?
its a mechanical pump on an edelbrock carb, shouldnt be a fuel issue unless there's something way too close to a manifold or the headers, but i havent seen anything like that, not to mention, that would be happening at exactly 200 degrees no matter what.
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Unread 02-06-2013, 03:40 PM   #20963
ksturgio
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Hi mine name is Scott and I have a car hoarding problem. A guy at work offered to sell an 81 Chevy k20 to me. It's pretty cheap and a stipulation is he would like to have the ability to find me if he ever wants it back. I hate to say I'm considering it.
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Unread 02-06-2013, 03:45 PM   #20964
gregaf3
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I was going with fuel pressure too. Maybe the old mechanical fuel pump is on its last leg and loosing fuel pressure once it gets warm and everything expands.

Also is it running a manual, vacuum, or electrical choke? It could be that you tuned the carb cold, and once the choke opens you are either rich/lean. When you set the idle was the car up to temp. Also when setting the idle did you use a vacuum gauge or just go by ear?

Back to the electrical side of things... resistance increases with heat, so if you have a loose connection to the coil, then this could be one of the issues.

I would do my best first to isolate it to either an electrical or fuel problem then go from there. Maybe possibly check the compression of the engine as well.
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Unread 02-06-2013, 03:47 PM   #20965
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Also marn... do you have any of that crazy emissions stuff on their?
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Unread 02-06-2013, 03:55 PM   #20966
Dr. Marneaus
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Originally Posted by gregaf3 View Post
I was going with fuel pressure too. Maybe the old mechanical fuel pump is on its last leg and loosing fuel pressure once it gets warm and everything expands.

Also is it running a manual, vacuum, or electrical choke? It could be that you tuned the carb cold, and once the choke opens you are either rich/lean. When you set the idle was the car up to temp. Also when setting the idle did you use a vacuum gauge or just go by ear?

Back to the electrical side of things... resistance increases with heat, so if you have a loose connection to the coil, then this could be one of the issues.

I would do my best first to isolate it to either an electrical or fuel problem then go from there. Maybe possibly check the compression of the engine as well.
the condition existed exactly as it does now with the old carb, prior to a rebuild, and after the rebuild, and after the new carb. I didnt do a whole lot in the way of tuning it, idle is set with it warm.

Choke is electric. It opens all the way when warm. Idle is set by ear, it's been adjusted several times in the past and the condition still exists.

the engine is brand new, 5000 miles on it. this apparently happened even before the engine was rebuilt. The older carb we have was on there before the rebuild, and im pretty sure the dizzy and ignition setup was all there before as well.


i'll check connections to the coil, but everything looks solid, as i've replaced the coil and checked the wires.

i'd doubt its a fuel problem because the carb doesnt need much pressure at all, its not running out of gas or boiling it off (carb has a spacer). it isnt hard to start once it cools down so it seems like percolation isnt the issue.


Quote:
Originally Posted by gregaf3 View Post
Also marn... do you have any of that crazy emissions stuff on their?
zero emissions stuff. headers to some kinda resonators. true duals, no h or x pipe.


what gets me is that it acts like its overheating. damn thing hits 200 degrees and starts sputtering and dying, then shuts off. barely runs. if you let it sit and idle for a long time it'll climb to that temp and die out. i understand that is an issue in and of itself (electric fans could help) BUT BUT BUT

no engine should shut off and die because of being too 'hot' at 200 degrees. like i said, the radiator doesnt blow off or anything. engine just knonks out right at 200ish.

you can drive for 4 hours at 180 degrees and the car is fine, then you let it warm up to 200 at a stop light and it barely runs.

or you can fire it up, leave it idling in the sun until it warms up, and it'll do the same thing after only 20 minutes of being on.

200, off.



also, for the record, i can fix anyhting on my jeep, but everything i try to do on that nova is a failure.
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Unread 02-06-2013, 03:59 PM   #20967
MMCKEIG
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So.........You're half a failure is what you're saying? haha
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Unread 02-06-2013, 03:59 PM   #20968
ksturgio
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How do you know it's 200 degrees? Would it be possible that the gauge isn't accurate. My old truck will run crappy when it gets hot but not boil over. If it keeps it up it might be worth the trip to a mechanic. If it comes to that dolars automotive is who I would recommend. Mike (the owner) usually works on classics himself.
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Unread 02-06-2013, 04:08 PM   #20969
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Hmm, new motor, carb, and the same old problem. I would feel safe to say that you have what is often referred to as an electrical gremlin. Are you running through the factory temp sensor on the gauge cluster or an aftermarket temp gauge? It might be something as stupid as the temp gauge in the car being bad and when it hits a certain temp, it is shorting out just enough to rob the 12vdc from the ignition system (Mainly from the keyed circuit)

Looking at a few of the schematics for your car http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums...ad.php?t=91875 it looks like they used a dummy temp light on some of the cars. This basically is a termo-electric switch that is set to close at a certain temp (overheating). If that switch is bad, and your electrical system is already sub par, then that might be your issue if that switch is closing early.
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Unread 02-06-2013, 04:11 PM   #20970
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My bet is electrical, assuming the gauge is reading correctly. If the water pump isn't working, the gauge may be reading correctly, but not accurately. If the water pump isn't flowing, it would overheat to shutdown pretty quickly. With the radiator cap off and engine running, can you see when/if the thermostat is opening? If the thermostat isn't opening, it will overheat as well. Also check all connections that have anything to do with ignition. It's a pita, but some careful diagnoses will give you a better idea where to look. You can pretty much eliminate the carb and fuel as an issue as it did the same with either carb. Could be a feed issue with fuel line, but not likely.
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