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Unread 09-06-2012, 08:06 PM   #15661
gregaf3
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Hey puck are there any water softner system that you would recommend or any that I should avoid?

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Unread 09-06-2012, 09:23 PM   #15662
Powrjunkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregaf3
Hey puck are there any water softner system that you would recommend or any that I should avoid?
What's your primary need? For primarily drinking water, I would recommend RO over water softened due to possible accelerated corrosion concerns. Not to mention the large bags of salt the require! RO is a bit difficult to install if you're not familiar with how they work, and filters are expensive. They also waste water too. Water dofteners use electricity, salt, and can add unwanted minerals to the water. If not maintained properly, they can also introduce bacteria and off tastes.
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Unread 09-06-2012, 10:09 PM   #15663
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I do not mind the current taste of the water. My wife complains non stop about her hair.... blah blah blah. My thing is all of the what I believe calcium build up everywhere from the water ring on the toilet to the shower nozzles clogging up. I was looking and the price range on different systems is crazy. I would like to get something that is pretty low maintenance due to the fact that we will be renting out the house in a few years.

My house is already set up for it. There is a loop, which I can only assume is the house main before it splits to the water heater and a third pipe which I guess is the drain.
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Unread 09-06-2012, 10:35 PM   #15664
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I would then recommend the softener. If you don't put the salt in it, it just doesn't soften the water. The RO filters and membrane reduce water flow when used, and eventually will stop all water flow. Like you said, there are many different types of systems with varying costs. I would use your water bill to estimate your monthly usage in gallons and select a unit rated for your usage plus about 20% above your annual average monthly usage!(hope that came out right. Take monthly gallon usage and average it over a year, then add 20% that should narrow your results down to only a few systems. Then look at features and maintenance requirements from there. Either way, it's gonna be expensive!
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Unread 09-06-2012, 10:54 PM   #15665
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Hey Greg all systems work on the same premise. Its up to you what you want to spend. Kenitco has a low maintenance unit that uses no electricity or salt but cost an arm a leg, traditional systems can be had at low cost and really dont add to your water bill or electricty. Honestly, go with a lowes or sears unit i'll install it and call it a day. Whole house RO systems are a waste and unless you want to drink your shower water dont do it. However, if you drink lots of bottled water at home, get the kitchen sink RO system. So let me know and i'll help you out.
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Unread 09-06-2012, 11:13 PM   #15666
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Any air craft mechanics in here or people that truly know how to properly do safety wiring? Looking for a crash course for dummies. I've got the general concept but would like to get it dialed...

This is my first attempt ever at it. I know the wire naturally needs to be routed so that it wants to pull the bolts tighter. But I don't totally understand the concept. I also don't know how close the twist should be to the bolt heads and the correct routing of the wires.

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Unread 09-06-2012, 11:19 PM   #15667
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Found this on a forum site. Hope it downloads and works right for you.

http://www.macdizzy.com/images/bbs/SafetyWireFolder.zip
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Unread 09-07-2012, 07:16 AM   #15668
gregaf3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirhk100 View Post
Any air craft mechanics in here or people that truly know how to properly do safety wiring? Looking for a crash course for dummies. I've got the general concept but would like to get it dialed...

This is my first attempt ever at it. I know the wire naturally needs to be routed so that it wants to pull the bolts tighter. But I don't totally understand the concept. I also don't know how close the twist should be to the bolt heads and the correct routing of the wires.

your twists look good, but you need to get it a little closer to the actual nut. All of that open space just makes the whole piece weaker. In theory you should be able to use one wire around that whole hub, but it will take practice. By the looks of what you have there, you already have a pair of safety wire pliers, so that is it good first step.

The key is to ensure that the wire is pulling in the direction of the thread of the bold. I would assume that everything on the truck is the standard lefty loosey, righty tighty. With standard thread you want the safety wire coming off and on the next bolt in a clockwise fashion. The theory behind safety wire is not that it will pull the bolt/nut tight, but it will tighten up if the bolt tries to unspin.

If you are using a bolt into a flange like the hub, then you only need to run one piece. However if you are running nuts and bolts then you will have to safety wire both sides. Not sure when I would be able to get down your way, but there are a few people on here that should be able to give you good hands on stuff. Just off the top of my head I would say both Andy and Adam should know their ****.
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Unread 09-07-2012, 07:23 AM   #15669
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If you ever wonder if you are a dork this is how you know. This was from my trip this past weekend to Mammoth/Yosemite. I am going back in Oct... I would like to take the TDI for obvious reasons, but I will end up taking the Jeep again just in case we hit snow.
dork.jpg  
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Unread 09-07-2012, 08:09 AM   #15670
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirhk100 View Post
Any air craft mechanics in here or people that truly know how to properly do safety wiring? Looking for a crash course for dummies. I've got the general concept but would like to get it dialed...

This is my first attempt ever at it. I know the wire naturally needs to be routed so that it wants to pull the bolts tighter. But I don't totally understand the concept. I also don't know how close the twist should be to the bolt heads and the correct routing of the wires.

I can stop by this weekend and show you the ropes. I see a couple of issues with what you have going on.
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Unread 09-07-2012, 08:20 AM   #15671
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LOL, everytime either of my friends from Mammoth come to visit they comment on how cheap gas is here!


Power, I'll try to open that link here at work here in a few minutes, my home computer will probably crash if I ask it to do anything not related to porn...


Greg, thanks for the info! I did use one wire around the whole hub for all 6 bolts. I'll work on getting the twists even closer. I knew that basically as the wire leaves the head of the bolt it should run so that the bolt would actually be tightening or as you said, basically prevent it from coming loose since that's it's job. Yes, in this case it's just bolts into a flange so no need for wire on the nut side. How would you do that anyways if I wanted to? Drill thru the nut and bolt itself once tightened? I don't really forsee any bolts where I'd be doing that so it's a question more out of curiosity then anything.

I plan on using it on these hubs and the bolts holding the motor mount to the engine block cause they have a reputation of working loose and shear off which then makes step one "remove engine" so you can drill and ez-out the broken bolt out of the block. Way too much work! Would rather just safety wire and forget... LOL

The reason I did it here is because there's not enough room to actually torque those bolts with a boxed end wrench or a socket. My only option is an open ended wrench. The bolts are just holding it to the face though, the shear load on them is actually in the machined parts as there's a male/female index between the hub assembly and the spindle. So basically I don't want those bolts coming loose but they also aren't working in a shear situation so torquing them as much as I can with open end I feel is fine. The other thing is because I can't get a box or socket on them I didn't want to loctite them and make future removal impossible from rounded bolt heads trying to remove them and in fact I went a step further and put anti seize on them in hopes of keeping future removal easy.
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Unread 09-07-2012, 08:22 AM   #15672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy02 View Post
I can stop by this weekend and show you the ropes. I see a couple of issues with what you have going on.
That would be rad!!!! And in that case I'll get the other hub put on, the bolt heads drilled and basically ready to go so I'd have a fresh setup to work with and then I can compare that to what I've already done. I would definitely appreciate it!

I was glancing thru Power's link and just looking at the pictures without reading the words I can spot a few differences as well right off the bat.

I picked up a cheapo harbor freight set of pliers and I'm thinking that was a mistake. I'll wait and see what your thoughts are but I'll probably end up buying a better quality set.

For reference, here's another angle...






I'd heard the military aircraft mechanics are the masters at this so I figured if I asked around enough I'd find someone that knew what was up. I know it's more then just slapping some wire around a bolt to be effective that's for sure!
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Unread 09-07-2012, 09:40 AM   #15673
gregaf3
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Those pliers in the background are what they gave us too. They are all that you need. Safety wiring is more in the technique than anything. For the nuts the key is to have the holes drilled in the nut itself. You do not want to drill through the threaded part of the bolt itself. This will weaken the bolt and you would have to be a rock star to get the holes to line up once you tightened it. All of the nuts that we used on aircraft came pre drilled, but I did find this with a quick search http://www.autotoolworld.com/product...FcFgTAoduVoAeg from the looks of it, it would be easy to make a quick jig for the drilling of the holes.


http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/191176-1.html another link describing technique
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Unread 09-07-2012, 09:42 AM   #15674
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Also have you considered using a 3/8 torque wrench and short socket. It would put your torque specs in nm or inch lbs, but you would still be able to get it in there. Or if you are that worried about it use a standard torque wrench with a crows foot.
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Unread 09-07-2012, 09:56 AM   #15675
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It's actually not the space limitation of getting the ratchet and stuff in there, it's the fact that there's no enough clearance between the head of the bolt and the outter diameter face right next to the head for a socket or anything to actually fit onto the head of the bolt.

Basically the distance between the two lines is too small for anything to actually fit over the head of the bolt to work with.




Do those crows foot wrenches actually grip and work better then just a standard open end wrench? My concern is having the wrench slip and rounding the head of the bolt which then leads me to vicegrips and if those fail my next step is cut off wheel, press hub assembly apart, drill, ex-out, etc... and I really don't want to get into that fun! LOL I rounded one bolt head already the first time I removed the bolts from the fab guy that built the spindles/hub. I replaced that bolt obviously...
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