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TJSWJ 06-22-2013 09:58 AM

Write up: WJ steering box re-seal and tap for hydro assist
There isnt much info out there for us WJ guys who want to re-build/re-seal our steering boxes. Even less if you want to add a hyrdaulic assist setup.

Being a mechanic I couldnt justify spending 500+ dollars to send my gear box out and have it rebuilt and tapped, then returned with 2 pre-made/non-serviceable universal fit hoses, and a ram. Thats not even a complete kit, as its missing one major component. An oil cooler! So, I deceided to do it myself.

From the begining I was shooting to build a complete, quality, hydraulic assist setup. Including, a re-sealed and tapped box, quality ram, field servicable hoses and fittings, an oil cooler, and a "upgraded" pump, at as little cost as possible without sacrificing quality.

I figured while I was at it I figured I would do a write up for anyone who is interested in tapping their own box for hydro assist. This writeup will also work for anyone interested in re-sealing their gear box. (just skip the drill and tap steps)

List of tools required:

Pitman arm puller- These are decently expensive to buy, if you dont already own one, you can rent one from your local parts store and it will work well enough for you to get the job done

Snap ring pliers- having a set would be nice, but a minimum a medium pair would work

Small & medium flat head screw drivers- I used these to pop some of the seals out of place

Side cuts/wire snips- Aid in removing seals

15mm socket

Torque wrench

3/4 inch socket- used to remove input shaft seal

1 1/16 inch socket- for installing input shaft seal and bearing

TWO 1/4NPT taps- One gets cut to make a "bottoming tap" Only needed if your tapping the box

Quality 7/16 drill bit- I say quality because we are drilling through cast. only needed if your tapping the box

3/16 or close drill bit- Used to make a pilot hole. Only needed if your tapping the box

Rubber mallet- used for gently tapping out/in the pitman shaft

Parts required for re-seal

Steering Gear seal kit Autozone part# 8774 List price of 39.98. I could only find a seal kit, I could not find a complete re-build kit that offered all the bearings as well. I assume that your could get them all from the dealer, but im sure that wouldnt be cheap. I decided just to re-seal this box because I couldnt find any play in the bearings. Had there been, I may have looked more into finding bearings.

Advanced auto also offers and identical kit, just a different brand (probably made by the same company). I chose autozone because I get a significant discount from them.

Parts required for hydro assist

All of my parts for the assist portion were sourced from Summit Racing. They are somewhat local to me, so all standard shipping is next day delivery for me.

1/4 npt to -6AN adapters X2 Fragola part# 581606 $1.95 each

-6 AN fitting caps Aeroquip part# FBM3602 $6.95 a pair. I purchased 4 (2 sets) of these just in case I blow a line on the trail and it cant be fixed. I can simply cap off the fittings on the gearbox and ram and drive off the trail as a normal rig would.

Procedure Please keep in mind that these instructions are going in order that they need to be done. BUT, some of the pictures were taken during assembly. It was a lot easier to get the proper pictures once everything was cleaned up.

Step 1) Remove your power steering lines and your pitman arm from the gear box. The pimtan arm puller will put pressure agaist the pitman shaft, and the pitman arm and seperate the two. Once the pitman shaft is completely off, place it back on loosely by hand. We are going to use the pitman arm to center the gear box. Use the pitman arm to turn the pitman shaft all the way left, then all the way right. Find the center point and leave the box in that position. The pitman shaft must be centered or it wont come out.

Step 2) Remove the 7 15mm bolts that hold the input shaft housing and the pitman shaft to the gear box housing (only the 3 input hosing bolts have been removed in this pic)

Step 3)After that, you can gently tap the input housing off the gear box. As well as tap the pitman shaft out of the housing. REMEMBER, the pimtan shaft must be centered in order for it to clear the housing.

Step 4) Remove the snap ring from the piston/worm gear assembly. CAUTION, after snap ring is removed DO NOT turn the flat on the worm gear. If you turn it to much the balls with fall out internally which will require disassembly Sadly, I turned it to much and all the ball fell out. So if that happens to you, just keep reading and I will show you how to fix it.

Step 5) Remove piston/worm gear assembly, see step 5a

Step 5a) I could only get the piston assembly out to a point before it locked up. The end seal was catching on the housing, so I cut outer purple teflon seal off and slid it out. After that the piston assembly came right out.

We now have a bare housing and are ready to start the drill and tap portion. If you are only using this thread in order to re-seal your box skip ahead to step 1 in the assembly portion of this writeup

The is the vein we are going to drill and tap for one of the ports. You can see in the next few pics that this vein runs from the front of the box to the back along the top.

You can see in this pic the two raised portions along the top of the box, I deceided to drill and tap the one closest to the input side of the box. Technically you could drill and tap any portion along that vein that runs along the top. I chose the hump because there is more material for better thread engagement.

Here you can see where we are going to place the fitting and how once drilled and tapped it will go into the vein

Step 1) Center punch, then start drilling your pilot hole. You can see that I was slightly off center, but not enough to worry about. You going to want to be in the center of the block, but lined up with the vein.

Step 2) After getting a pilot hole started, I switched over the the 7/16 drill bit. At this point I kept the bit as greased up as possible. The greas will keep most of the chips from falling into the vein.
Pic of the drilled hole once finished.

Step 3) Tap the hole using your 1/4 npt tap. Keep the tap well lubricated, and work slowly. Back completely out of the hole every so often to clean the tap, at this point its do or die, you dont want to mess it up because you got lazy. If you do, you will be buying another box. You want to tap down as far as you possibly can. The more thread engaged, the better the seal and strenght of the fitting. This is where the bottoming tap will come in.

Step 4) Making a bottoming tap Looking at the tap, can see the the bottom portion is used to help center the tap in the hole. That is great when tapping an open hole, or one thats plenty long enough for the whole tap to go in without issue, but in our case we need every thread we can get. So we make a bottoming tap by removing those first few threads. This will allow the tap to continue to cut all the way down untill it reaches the bottom of the hole its cutting into.

Step 5) Mark the threads your going to cut off. I used a piece of stripping tape to mark 3 or so threads to be cut off. You dont want to take a lot of material off the end (remember its NPT so its tapered) or it will become too big to fit in the hole you tapped with your first tap.

Step 6) Cut the threads off. I used a cut off wheel, but a hack saw or similar would work im sure. The key is too keep the tool cool. You dont want the tap to get too hot and loose its heat treating and strength. It took me about 4 cuts to make it all the way through. I would cut a little bit, put it under cold water, cut a little bit, cold water, etc...

Step 7) clean the edges up with a file or grinder etc.

Step 8) Finish tapping the hole on the top of the box. Remember to keep the tap well lubricated, keep it clean, and work slowly. Sadly I forgot to take a picture of this part, but its not really much different than step 3. After that test fit the -6an/ 1/4npt adapter. You should get a minimum of 3 threads engagement.

Step 9) locating adpater location From the pitman shaft bolt hole flat, your going to measure 1 5/16th down. Almost directly across from the casting rib shown on the left in the pic. Marc the position with a marker

Step 10) From the flat along the side of the box, measure over 3/8 in. Where this measurement and your measurement from step 9 cross will be where your going to drill.

Step 11) I placed rags inside the box to help keep the shavings out of the bearings. After that just drill and tap this location just like you did in the previous steps. This time there is plenty of room for the tap to go in, so there will be no need for the bottoming tap.

Step 12) Test your fittings. Test each fitting to make sure it goes properly and you get good thread engagement. Tap more if needed. After you have insured they fit well, remove the fittings. They are going to be the last thing we install after the box is back together.

Step 13) CLEAN THE HOUSING. After I finished tapping the last hole I cleaned everything thoroughly using a parts wash. Brake clean would work just fine though. After that I took the wire wheel to the housing because I plan on painting it once its finished. After your done with that, clean it again. You want to make sure there is no metal shavings/dirt in the housing.

Step 14) After your done cleaning, lubricate the inside of the housing using powersteering fluid. The more lubbed up, the easier it will be to installl everything. You cant have too much power steering fluid on all the parts.

This ends the drill and tap portion of this write up. Now we go back to box assembly

Assembly Flipping the box upside down in the vise (pitman shaft portion up) we are going to install the 2 seals, spacers and snap ring. The get re-installed as follows- Seal/plastic spacer (seal part in), Metal washer (buts up agains plastic spacer), Snap ring, Than outer dust seal. Basically the same was as shown in the pic (from left to right) except i messed up and switched the position of the snap ring and the dust seal. Prior to installation I gave everything a nice coat of grease.

Step 1) Install pitman shaft seal/plastic spacer. Seal portion goes down

Step 2) Install metal spacer

Step 3 Install snap ring

Step 4 Install lower dust seal

Step 5) Install the new teflon seal on the piston assembly. The seals are installed as pictured from left to right. I put the large white seal on first. After that I thought it would be easier to put the green teflon seals on starting with the top seal, then slowly work my way down. My thinking was that once I got the seal into its groove, I wouldnt have to fight to keep the next seal from falling into that groove making install easier. I WAS WRONG. It was a PITA! So, start with the bottom (considering the large seal the bottom) and work your way up. (also notice the rubber o-ring on the far right end. that is part of the 2 piece rubber/teflon seal. see next step)

TJSWJ 06-22-2013 09:59 AM

Step 6) Install the 2 piece rubber/teflon seal. First you install the o-ring (as pictured above), then you install the purple teflon seal over it. (this is the seal that gave me trouble when removing the piston assembly.)

Step 7) Install piston assembly. Remember, DO NOT TURN THE WORM GEAR. It can move a little, but if it moves too much the balls will fall out internally. It took some light taps from the mallet to get the purple teflon seal to go into place, be careful and take your time, you dont want to break the seal.

Step 8) Install the snap ring. For some reason mine had a slight bevel to it. This bevel only allowed it be installed one way. You should be able to tell which way it goes in by the marks that are on it from the housing. If not, just try it one way, if it seats completely then its in correctly. If not, flip it over and try again. After the snap ring is installed you can turn the worm gear if needed.

Step 9) After the snap ring is installed, you can turn the input shaft/worm gear and center the piston assembly with the bore for the pitman shaft. There are 3 teeth on the piston assembly. The midde tooth is what you want to line up with the pitman bore. In the picture you can see that the teeth need to move down in the bore in order for the pitman shaft to be installed correctly.

Step 10) Install new o-ring seal on pitman shaft and install pitman shaft. It may take some light blows with the rubber mallet, but it will go in just fine. Remember that it has to be centered, so if it doesnt go in, turn it a little.

Step 11) Moving on to the input housing. You need to tap the input shaft seal out from the outside in. You also have to be careful as there is a bearing right behind it. I placed the input housing on my tool box with the seal facing up. After that I used the biggest socket that would still fit through the bore to tap the seal and bearing out slowly. This is where the 3/4 socket came in.

Step 12) Once you have the old input seal out, you can swap it for the new one and re-install. I place some grease around the new seal and in the bearing just to make things go together easier. I used the same method as in the previous step, and used the biggest socket I could to tap the bearing and seal back into place. This time it was a 1 1/16th socket and extension. First I taped the seal until it was close to being fully seated. Then I installed the bearing, and used it as a spacer so that the socket wouldnt damage the seal. Keep the socket centered on the bearing and tap it and the seal into place. It doesnt take much force to get these in place, just some light blows should do the trick.

Step 13) Install a new o-ring onto the input shaft housing

Step 14)Install the input shaft housing onto the gear box. It should slide most of the way in, but might require a few small taps at the end. After that you can install all the bolts (7) into the the input housing and the pitman shaft using a 15mm socket/ratchet combo or a wrench. After that, they all get tightened to 46 ft. lbs.

Step 15) for those tapping for hydro assist only We are going to re-install the fittings. This is pretty self explanatory, but I just wanted to mention how I did it. I dont plan on these fittings ever coming back out of the box. There isnt a reason that I could think of as to why they would need to. So instead of using thread tap to seal them, I used JB weld. I figure it would prevent them from loosing up, and provide a good seal as well.

Lastly, If you want to, you can give it all a nice shiny coat of paint.

Now for those of you (like me) that turned the worm gear/input shaft too much and dropped all the bearings out of the piston assembly, here is how to fix it.

Step 1) Spin th worm gear completely out of the case. Be careful as you dont wan to loose any of the ball bearings. After that get all of the bearings out of the inside of the piston assembly. If I remember correctly, there were 24 ball bearings.

Step 2) Remove the crossover tube from the piston assembly, should be 2 10mm bolts.

Step 3) Remove the massive plug that is on the end of the piston assembly. I forgot to write down what size this was. You can see it in the picture in step 1.

Step 4) Get your balls in a line. Notice, they are different colors. They need to be arranged and installed in an alternating pattern. I had no idea on which color to start with, and I couldnt find an answer, so I just winged it.

Step 5) Install the worm gear back into the piston assembly. After that you can start feeding the bearings back into place through the crossover tube hole. I started with the side closest too the input shaft, and fed in as many as I could. I used the back of a bic pen to help feed them in place without marring them. I started witht the front of my row of bearings and fed as many as I could to the front port. After that I started with the back port, and thus started grabbing bearings from the back of my row. Remember you have to keep the alternating pattern going throughout the piston assembly. After this point, you must keep the worm gear from turning. If you let it turn too much, your just going to have to start back at the beginning. Once the bearings are installed, just turning the piston assembly upside down will cause the worm gear to spin itself out, so be careful

Step 6) What bearings you have left are the ones that fit in the crossover tube. I used a little grease on one side of the tube to hold the bearings in place as during install of the tube. Dont forget to keep the pattern going. (yes at this time in the picture it looks as though my pattern is wrong, I took the pics before I was finished) Also, dont forget that you will have one bearing left over that goes on the end of the worm gear.

Step 7) Install the crossover tube and bolts. I dont have a torque spec on them, so I tightened them german tight. Goodentight.

Step 8) Install the cap at the end. Again, I dont have a torque spec so goodentight it was.

Step 9) After everything is back together you can continue with assembly.

TJSWJ 06-22-2013 10:00 AM

If anyone else wants to convert their complete power steering system to accept -6an you need 2 o-ring adapter fittings. The inlet is 11/16-18 o-ring seal (russell part# 648040) and the outlet is 5/8-18 o-ring seal (russel part#648030)

And that should about do it. At this point, Ive decided to leave this thread strictly for the re-seal and tap. The rest of the hydro assist setup process has a TON of info out there. But if you would like to see how im doing it you can see it in my build thread.

Feel free to ask any and all gear box related questions here.

YZ212 06-22-2013 04:23 PM

Great wright up, thanks. Mods this should be included as a sticky!

Robertc2012 06-23-2013 12:44 AM

I am planning to do my steering box due to leaks.
Thank you for a Good write up :thumbsup:

TJSWJ 06-25-2013 09:37 AM

That should about cover it all. Let me know if you guys have any questions.

JimmydaGreek 06-25-2013 12:07 PM

Def sticky! Good job and thanks!

CRJEeP_wj 06-25-2013 05:53 PM

Great write up and a long time comin for the wj guys. That purple seal on the bottom of the piston is a PITA. Thanks.

mtnmarc 06-25-2013 09:40 PM

Very impressive.

TJSWJ 06-26-2013 09:47 AM

Thanks guys. I just realized I forgot to show how to adjust the pitman arm pre-load. I wasnt planning on doing it to my box since it was a low mileage one, but for sake of the info ill do it. That way you guys can tighten up the box if yours is higher mileage.

Robertc2012 06-26-2013 12:28 PM

A professional post! - Best I have read on Jeepforum.

narnwv 06-26-2013 07:21 PM

I'll add it to the FAQ I'm working on.

Typing on phones sucks.

jclaudii 06-27-2013 10:58 AM

This is a great informative post and something some detail that one might find over on mallcralwin that is tailored to those who want to modify there wj's and have more turning power. Thanks for the great how too.

AgitatedPancake 07-11-2013 01:55 PM

This is a great writeup! Very useful when diving into the steering boxes, just for making sure you keep everything straight :D

One thing I will make a note on, I do not believe that bearing belongs on the end of the worm shaft but fell into that position behind the nut when you twisted things too far and had a few bearings fall out. When I disassembled the one I just rebuilt it had a full 24 ball bearings within the worm drive, 12 silver and 12 black. At one point when I was reassembling I had a ball bearing fall within the housing and thought I lost it, it ended up nestled into the end of the worm shaft just like yours, but mine was silver. Considering the ball bearings follow a continuous loop, you need an equal amount of silver and black ball bearings to keep it alternating throughout. Somewhere within your worm drive loop you're missing a black ball bearing and have two silver bearings stacked together

TJSWJ 07-11-2013 04:47 PM

I believe you may be correct. I have another gearbox, im going to pull it apart 1st to be sure. The reason I thought a ball went there is because if you look at the under side of the big nut on the end of the piston assembly, it has a wear mark on it that looks like a ball was on it. Could just be coincidence though. If I find it to be the way you say, ill edit the post. Thank you sir!

P.S. check you pm's

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