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Would you buy this lifted WJ?

5K views 42 replies 19 participants last post by  LMTD 
#1 ·
I moved to south fl and the only wheeling trips I would take would be camping locally and monthly/every other month up north.

I owned a 99 wj V8 Quadradrive but it got totaled so I got a 01 bmw 330ci and this jeep is a 99 wj V8 quadradrive but with 73k and not stock. this particular jeep was introduced to me through a friend and isn't listed for sale and I wasn't really interested in another jeep before this one came about.

I would prefer a smaller/no lift so can these parts be removed even though it appears the arms/lift has been welded and old mounts cut(check pic)?

Went for a inspection in person and this is what I found out

Good
It has a 6.5in lift(4 link from what I could tell) A good even though i would prefer a small lift
265/75/16 bfg
73k miles
front and rear steel bumpers with winch mount/brush guard
swing out tire carrier
yakima roof rack with bike carriers
V8
Quadradrive
11.4mpg on the info screen(IMO good considering lift)
Price(get to that later)

Bad
leaky power steering line(no biggie)
cut ABS wire(abs/brake light on dash)
Tires rub at full lock(tight U turns)
The custom suspension is welded(great welds though) in a new location and the old arms look to be cut out.(was considering parting out the lift parts and going to stock)
front tires are trashed(back ones are good)

removed front driveshaft its a CV and worn
Leaky output pinion on the TC
and the worst the angle of the TC is way off because of the lift I am not sure what part is needed to correct this.

Here is a pic of the angle


Heres a pic of the jeep


Pic of the suspension



Price would be around $2800 talk me into/out of it
 
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#2 ·
6.5in 4 link lift, i would have to guess is the clayton long arm lift. that alone is almost as much as what your offering. IMO i would buy fix and then sell, use the money to buy a wj that suits you more, like something a bit lower.
 
#17 ·
this is a correct diagram with my crappy drawing over it.



If the angle is this(correct) then doesnt it create an extreme angle on the front driveshaft when the transfer case is slightly crooked/leaning(i'm sure for a purpose) to make the angle desirable in the rear.

Rear view


Front view
 
#18 ·
Front looks like RockKrawler to me. Definately not Claytons, he uses square radius arms. Rear is still stock configuration using short lowers and stock a-arm. The style front driveshaft grenades at 4+ inches, and I'd be thats why its off. As others have said, the front LCA mounts being removed will be your biggest hurdle to returning it to stock. You'll have to weld some new ones on and cut off all of the lift stuff that was welded on.
 
#20 ·
You would have to change the style of drive shaft in the front at that height regardless. Looks like you would probably be good to go with a u-joint style set up. A new one with yokes can be had from Carolina Driveline for around 350 shipped. Or you can call your local shops and see what they would want to make one, but you will still need u-joint yokes for the front axle as well as the transfer case.
The whole deal seems pretty good to me given the armor, lift, and miles. Assuming he hasn't beat it to death off road, but it's Florida so it's not like it can get any worse than sand and mud. I paid around 3500 for mine a bit back with 160K dead stock. Exact same jeep as that but in black. I probably should have shopped around more, but was in a hurry.
 
#21 ·
That case appears to have some sort of rear SYE to it...I'm guessing a hack n' tap. The rear double cardan shaft is more than likely not factory. For that drive line setup, you want the pinion angle to equal the angle of the driveshaft.

If the front also has a double/single setup, you will want the pinion angle and DS angle to be equal.
 
#24 ·
Looks like it could be Rock Krawler lift or Tera Flex,either way it looks like a killer deal with just the lift and both bumpers,i say go for it,hey good bumpers for WJ's for front are around 1k or higher and rears are just as high so figure 2k in just bumpers (new price),i think you could do really good on this.
 
#25 ·
I'm not sure on this, but the ABS wires probably got cut to fit the lift(did not buy extenders)...just a guess...
 
#27 ·
Height is not the problem. Theres not enough backspacing on the stock wheels to clear the 265's. A 1.25" wheel spacer or some wheels with less backspace would solve the rubbing problem.

Personally I don't think its that great a deal for you. It would make a great starter rig for someone wanting to build up to 33's or 35's and wheel it...but that doesn't sound like what you're looking for. Unless your intentions change, I'd pass this one along to someone looking for a wheeler.
 
#29 ·
First of all...GO BUY IT, WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR? That is worth the price for sure. Okay, let me calm down a bit.

The kit looks like a Rockkrawler kit to me. Your pics of the joints don't show much, but it looks like the RK kit. Look at the passenger upper control arm mount on the axle, is anything there? It looks like the 3-link to me. There really aren't any good pics from far away, but the front bumper looks like a Kennesaw, likely a matching rear. The lift and install alone are going to hit $2800, bumpers are likely approaching 2K with shipping. This is a good deal you shouldn't pass up. If I lived closer, I would be making an offer of $3500 right now and trying to get your buddy's phone number.

It would be crazy and expensive to return this thing to stock control arms. It can be done, but someone would have to weld on new control arm mounts. If you really want it lower, sell your coils and buy some 3 or 4 inch coils and lower it a bit. I wouldn't go lower than 3 inches with the long arms If you lower it, you might want to shorten the arms a bit too. You should be able to adjust the joints into the arms.

In regards to the leaking t-case...It is likely the 247 all time 4wd case. I thought mine was leaking from the pinion too, but it turned out to be the rubber access plug on the top of the tailshaft. It is quite common. Clean it up the oil and residue, then use RTV to seal the access plug to the t-case. It is a quick and cheap fix.

If the tires rub, you can either adjust the steering stops, add wheel spacers, or get new wheels with more offset. Personally I like the silverblade rims and would get spacers.
 
#30 ·
If I get it and I am leaning towards getting it. Keep in mind it would rarely get wheeled other than occasionally making trips north(just mud/sand around here) so any lift is unnecessary.

I would
Remove and replace coils with 3-4"(sell the 6.5" coils or trade)
Remove the front/rear bumpers and tire carrier and sell(not sure value yet)
replace with stock bumper covers that match color(this could be tough) or paint one
Go with a U-joint front driveshaft(not really sure how much this costs/difficulty to convert from CV)
Alignment
wheel spacers
fix the minor things exhaust leak/power steering leak
Resolder the abs wire
Address TC leak

I may be the first guy on this forum to go lower but I think that would make a pretty sweet DD. Anything I missed that I would need to go to 3-4"?
 
#31 ·
I believe you can pick up a DD for less on Craigslist and save yourself alot for work! If you can see if it has any "spacers" on the transfercase crossmember (it goes from side to side holding up the transfer case). Mine has a 4inch lift on it with spacers and my angle is like that and it gernaded the front rezeppa style shaft. Carolina quoted me around 320 for a new front ujointed double cardan shaft that include yokes for both the transfer case and axle. Since that rear drive shaft is "custom" to a WJ's, I would be a bit worried about removing the transfer case spacer and not having enough splines engaging into the rear of the transfercase.

One could get lower springs, but the problem I see is there is not enough tire. I'm on a 4" lift and I run 285's so you can reduce the "fender gap" by going with 285's and doing a bit of trimming :)

The abs may have gottten pulled in two by the owner forgetting to let it "dangle" more.

Why get rid of the bumpers? there already on it, and stock bumpes are not that great and if you get rid of tire carrier you loose your nifty cubby hole in the rear cargo area!

I would pass on it if your going to "return it to stock like" and I would save time by buying stock. if you want a Jeep that is different then embrace this jeep and start modifying it more by doing more of the useless things we jeep owners are known for!
 
#32 ·
I believe you can pick up a DD for less on Craigslist and save yourself alot for work! If you can see if it has any "spacers" on the transfercase crossmember (it goes from side to side holding up the transfer case). Mine has a 4inch lift on it with spacers and my angle is like that and it gernaded the front rezeppa style shaft. Carolina quoted me around 320 for a new front ujointed double cardan shaft that include yokes for both the transfer case and axle. Since that rear drive shaft is "custom" to a WJ's, I would be a bit worried about removing the transfer case spacer and not having enough splines engaging into the rear of the transfercase.

One could get lower springs, but the problem I see is there is not enough tire. I'm on a 4" lift and I run 285's so you can reduce the "fender gap" by going with 285's and doing a bit of trimming :)

The abs may have gottten pulled in two by the owner forgetting to let it "dangle" more.

Why get rid of the bumpers? there already on it, and stock bumpes are not that great and if you get rid of tire carrier you loose your nifty cubby hole in the rear cargo area!

I would pass on it if your going to "return it to stock like" and I would save time by buying stock. if you want a Jeep that is different then embrace this jeep and start modifying it more by doing more of the useless things we jeep owners are known for!
Problem being is a good DD with under 100k will run me twice the price of this one. Other than the mechanicals this one is in pretty good shape(better than my last one) and I would consider buying/fixing/trading with someone who wants a more extreme rig.

I would sell the bumpers because I dont need them. I will wheel this thing maybe 3 times a year and I can make some cash by selling them.

It already has 265/75/16 tires which IMO are too small for it. I think being around 3-4 inches will fit the tires nicely(the rears are in good shape).

I dont think I would waste my time with the CV shafts I had them go bad on my last WJ which BTW was the exact model with all the same options as this one.

I know i am asking a bunch of questions I should know I joined this site 3 years ago but you would be suprised after a year of not owning one the stuff is flushed out of your brain for new info.

Also he wants a little more for it so the new price is 3k.
 
#34 ·
If your only going to wheel it 3 times a year...I'm going to go out on a limb, you need something besides a Jeep. Perhaps a Good Ford Explorer or a Volkswagen toureg or even a Liberty or Compass!

If your looking at this as a financial "investment" by parting it out some you may be okay and come out in the Green. But don't expect to sell the bumpers for more than 500, as I had to sell a trailready bumper off of a ZJ for 400 because no one wanted to pay what it was worth!
 
#36 ·
Plenty of grand cherokee's have never seen anything but pavement. I would at least be wheeling it 3 times a year(probably more) but the rest of the time I would go on camping trips/using it to tow/using it to transport my mt bikes/utility and space for other things. I know my way around them and I loved my last grand. I live in south fl and it is about 6 hours to any type of decent trails and I am forced to live here(dental school) for the next 3-4 years.

I dont need a jeep or an SUV for that matter most people dont. I want one that simple. Do you crawl 4 star trails to get to your house?

If I get 500 for the bumpers then so be it I prefer the look of the original bumpers and wouldnt leave them on there unless I hit the rocks alot.
 
#35 ·
You aren't the first to drop down from that high. Other than changing the coils, you will just need to adjust the control arms for axle placement and pinion angles. The only other thing to look into would be the length of your sway bar endlinks, look at the angle of the sway bar after you lower it.
 
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