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Unread 07-30-2012, 10:25 AM   #46
BLACK04WJ
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thanks for the advice! my design should be able to swing away from the jeep so clearance shouldn't be an issue I hope.. 35's take up a lot of room. I'm using heims instead of a spindle.

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Unread 09-15-2012, 08:41 PM   #47
4x4Jeep
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FYI subscribers: traded for MrJ's tire carrier so i'll be finishing this up on my WJ, but won't get started on it just yet, need more important things fixed first. let you know when i begin...
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Unread 01-06-2013, 10:18 AM   #48
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any updates ?
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Unread 01-06-2013, 04:01 PM   #49
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Here's mine at work on the habitat homes in teton village
image-68094909.jpg  
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Unread 01-07-2013, 04:38 AM   #50
texlurch
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Thinking I can get this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-06-Jeep-W...ae8c4a&vxp=mtr

Add the beam across the stock bumper, gusset down to hitch mounts... ?
Or would it be plenty strong just welded to stock bumper/subframe?

I realize I need to extend the latch end a bit to clear the hatch, but sure would reduce the material cost and fab time...

thoughts?
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Unread 01-08-2013, 06:34 AM   #51
Fawkes
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Smunns did something similar to JCDriller for his Dub. When he built his bumper, I bought his swing-away and modded it a bit before installing on mine:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/...hread-1147792/

I like how you've kept the weight near the pivot point. Smunns had his tire mount centered, and I moved it 6" left for better rear vision... outboard of the pivot on the right side.

With a 32" tire and steel wheel, that's a LOT of weight at the end of the arm.
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Unread 01-09-2013, 12:12 AM   #52
thisguyhasadd2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texlurch
Thinking I can get this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-06-Jeep-W...ae8c4a&vxp=mtr

Add the beam across the stock bumper, gusset down to hitch mounts... ?
Or would it be plenty strong just welded to stock bumper/subframe?

I realize I need to extend the latch end a bit to clear the hatch, but sure would reduce the material cost and fab time...

thoughts?
That would increase fab time I feel. I see to much work to drop money on that
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Unread 01-09-2013, 12:45 AM   #53
texlurch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thisguyhasadd2 View Post
That would increase fab time I feel. I see to much work to drop money on that
Versus buying the raw steel and hinge and building from scratch?
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Unread 01-09-2013, 09:10 PM   #54
4x4Jeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piratexpress View Post
any updates ?
it's still on my To Do List. the WJ hasn't been driven in 3 months...need trans./t-case fixed, been trying to save up for that which i will be fixing soon. then the work will begin. hopefully by Feb. or March.
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Unread 01-09-2013, 11:07 PM   #55
thisguyhasadd2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texlurch

Versus buying the raw steel and hinge and building from scratch?
Well maybe I was just really fortunate to have a metal distributor in town
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Unread 01-09-2013, 11:39 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thisguyhasadd2 View Post
Well maybe I was just really fortunate to have a metal distributor in town
I have to go a ways to get steel; but not even figuring that in the equation

Based on steel prices, getting a hinge and latch, and time to cut it all out and weld it up; something already built that is "close" works out pretty even in cost.
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Unread 01-10-2013, 08:00 AM   #57
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Try and find a scrap metal yard. I get mine for 45-54 cents a pound. And a lot of it is new but in smaller pieces.
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