WJ recirculation door fix *pics* - Page 8 - JeepForum.com

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post #106 of 129 Old 07-22-2014, 10:27 AM
Thomahawk
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Just did the thing, pics in my build thread.


2004 Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7 HO Quadradrive
95 ZJ Limited 5.2 Winter Project
Sold 94 ZJ Laredo 4.0 Winter Beater
R.I.P. 2000 Grand Cherokee Limited, 4.7 V8, Quadradrive, Shale Green Metallic, Agate/Carbon interior, Well modded and highly missed :(

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MONEY WILL CONTINUE TO BE THROWN INTO THE RIG UNTIL CONDITION AND SATISFACTION IMPROVES!!!
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post #107 of 129 Old 08-09-2014, 08:46 PM
canadianboomer
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I just did this to mine but in "Recurculating" mode

Thanks for this awesome post. I followed it and was successful.

The hardest part of the job was getting the 3 semi rusted screws out of the fan! Once the fan was down, we reached up into the hole and positioned the broken recirc door into the recurculating position. I held it there as my friend slid a small wood wedge that he had made into the plastic "grill" thing behind the glove box. It fit perfect and the door was solid shut. A bit of hot glue on the wood wedge and plastic grill and it was done.

The AC is blowing like a hurricane and super cold!

Thanks again from BC Canada
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post #108 of 129 Old 09-30-2014, 01:01 PM
biffs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robrilla View Post
So how do you "correctly" fix the recirculation door problem? I'm taking apart the dash anyway to repair codes 54 / 56.

Thanks,
-Rob
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schlotzky View Post
PM sent.
Can someone provide more information on this rather than in PM? I'd be curious how to fix it properly. Being in Canada we get both very cold and very hot, and I don't want to 'flip the switch' twice a year. I'm very likely pulling the dash at some point to install some new stuff and relocate all of my wiring for remote start, install a tablet, power inverter, etc and would like to do it right.

Thanks

Build thread:
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sure why I can't make that a real link)
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post #109 of 129 Old 09-30-2014, 02:00 PM
Jeeples
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffs View Post
Can someone provide more information on this rather than in PM? I'd be curious how to fix it properly. Being in Canada we get both very cold and very hot, and I don't want to 'flip the switch' twice a year. I'm very likely pulling the dash at some point to install some new stuff and relocate all of my wiring for remote start, install a tablet, power inverter, etc and would like to do it right.

Thanks
Here's the procedure for pulling the dash and HVAC sub assembly:

http://www.wjjeeps.com/hvac_ip_remove.htm

As for replacement parts, I think the Dorman HVAC sub assemblies (both the blend door and recirc door) offer the best bang for the buck, even compared to the popular aluminum replacements found on eBay. They address the root cause of door failure, which is the blend door drive connector stop tabs. The drive connector is what attaches the blend door motors to the blend door shaft, the OE doors have a 3 MM stop tab with tends to break and allows the motor over rotate and eventually break the blend door shaft. The Dorman doors use a thicker 4 MM stop tab.

His: '00 WJ 4.7 Limited- Some stuff

Hers: '03 WJ 4.7 Laredo- Some more stuff


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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjjeep19 View Post
It is what Jeeples has *PARTIALLY* stated.
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post #110 of 129 Old 11-27-2014, 04:31 PM
NomadJoe
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Great quick fix. After fixing my blend doors I was still only getting about 20% power from the AC and heater so I just completed this fix. But instead of removing the recirc door or drilling a hole in it and zip tieing it, I just used the extra aluminum tape that came with the blend door kit and taped it into the recirc position. Now it blows strong hot and cold in every vent configuration correctly, though I lost the driver-passenger dual climate control feature with the previous blend door repair. Dual climate control is a ridiculous feature anyway. I chose to fix it to the recirc position because I want full AC for the blistering California summer heat and full heat for the winters in the mountains. I don't see a need to route outside air in unless perhaps all 4 windows fail and can't be opened. Not much chance of that.




Last edited by NomadJoe; 11-28-2014 at 02:02 AM.
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post #111 of 129 Old 12-11-2014, 01:33 PM
cyber-junkie
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Mine 01 Limited shows fault code 52 (recirc door travel to far) the recirc door will not close anymore as I use it in heavy traffic to cut off the fumes from the cars ahead of me, and after I stop and shut off the WJ, It sounds like one of the door(s) opening and closing, it does this a few times then stops...questions, is this problem the recirc door that is broken or is the actuator broken? The blend doors seem to working ok (I think) as I can get A/C or Heat from the system. If it's the recirc door that's broken, why does the actuator keep trying to close or open it? Or are there two actuators, one for the blend door and one for the recirc door?
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post #112 of 129 Old 12-12-2014, 05:16 PM
NomadJoe
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There is just one actuator (servo) for the recirc door and one for the blend door if you have single climate control, and two if you have dual control. They go through periodic calibration and that is what you are hearing. The "travel to far" fault which is caused by a design flaw and has a 100% failure rate on WJ's. I'm just repeating what I read above but there is a small nub that limits how far the doors move. This breaks off and then puts the stress of the actuator servo on the doors themselves which then also break. Sounds like your actuator (servo) is still working but the stops are broken. If the actuator/servo was not responsive it is a different code. A few people have reported bad actuators, but the broken stops and doors is far more common and is almost certainly the problem with the fault codes you are getting. Read back though these 8 pages in this thread as well as the various blend door threads and it will make sense. It's a $1000 or more repair at the dealer, or as little as $50 and 1 hour easy DIY.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f274/...-easy-1437620/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...x-kit-1165833/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ho...repair-464741/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...-door-1272066/
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post #113 of 129 Old 12-12-2014, 07:43 PM
cyber-junkie
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Thanks NomadJoe, I live in Fl and like the recirc as it tends to get very hot here and I like blocking the exhaust fumes from the car in front of me, now will the defrost still work? I have noticed it will come off recirc when the defrost is turned on.
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post #114 of 129 Old 12-14-2014, 07:25 PM
drpaul311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim11 View Post
I have a Grand Cherokee LTD 2004 and I am not getting any hot or cold air anymore (just a little air is flowing). I believe the blend door and the recirculation switch broke and I am getting error codes 52 54 and 56. Will the described fix work for my model without taking the dash off ? Thanks for your reply.
your blend doors are toast! been there done that!

you can buy a kit online that has aluminum doors rather than plastic and you get new shafts. all you do is cut a W looking thing from the top of the heater box. you have access to the whole unit and just replace it. the kit comes with ducting tape. don't do what I did however, i inadvertently threw away my heater box piece. i had to spend another 150 to buy a new top part of the heater box and cut out a new piece for mine.

if you need a picture of where to do this, i can send you one. i didn't have heat on the passenger side for about three years. sucked every time we took it to Utah during the winter when it was 40 below zero! then i replaced the heater/ac head unit and then i lost heat on the driver side. i was quite hestitant to do this repair but once i bought the kit, i saw it was a piece of cake.

that is literally maybe a one hour repair.
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post #115 of 129 Old 12-15-2014, 04:00 PM
NomadJoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyber-junkie View Post
Thanks NomadJoe, I live in Fl and like the recirc as it tends to get very hot here and I like blocking the exhaust fumes from the car in front of me, now will the defrost still work? I have noticed it will come off recirc when the defrost is turned on.
In Florida you shouldn't have much need for actually defrosting things, but yes just use it with the heater on. If you are wanting to defog, use the Ac with it. The ac removes moisture from the air.
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post #116 of 129 Old 12-28-2014, 11:47 PM
lacofdfireman
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Fixed our blend doors but now our windows fog up really bad. Supposing that the Recirculator doors are broken also? So let me get this right. If the Recirculator door is broken it it usually broken in the open or closed position? I would suppose that since it it fogging it is already in the Recirculation position and not getting fresh air from outside? Is this correct or does it have something to do with the defrost vents not working? Not sure why I'm fogging up and what I need to do to fix this. It's pretty annoying..
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post #117 of 129 Old 12-29-2014, 12:26 AM
Ah673000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lacofdfireman
Fixed our blend doors but now our windows fog up really bad. Supposing that the Recirculator doors are broken also? So let me get this right. If the Recirculator door is broken it it usually broken in the open or closed position? I would suppose that since it it fogging it is already in the Recirculation position and not getting fresh air from outside? Is this correct or does it have something to do with the defrost vents not working? Not sure why I'm fogging up and what I need to do to fix this. It's pretty annoying..
Your recirc door will normally fail in the partially open position and allow cold air into the Jeep . I pushed mine into the closed position with a pencil and do not get any fogging . If you are getting fogging you either have a damp interior opt you have a heater core leaking.
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post #118 of 129 Old 12-30-2014, 12:41 PM
drpaul311
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I will add my two cents worth to this thread. I had to replace both blend doors. Piece of cake too. There is yet another really common problem with these jeeps, the fan relay that is below the fan on the outside of the case. In other words, before you pull out the blower fan, the wires need to be disconnected. That's the relay. What happens with them is they start to have a melt down and effectively, you end up with no fan control. That part is about $100 the last time I checked. Mine is bad but I didn't replace it as of yet but u can visually see they melt down.
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post #119 of 129 Old 01-13-2015, 01:49 PM
cknoll
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Coat hanger method

Using the pics in this post as inspiration I was able to get the recirc door to stay in "outside" air mode using just a coat hanger. No drilling was required. I cut about 12" of coat hanger, bent 1/4" a little past 90 degree angle and slipped it past the recirc door. I twisted the hanger so the 1/4" "hook" stuck into the back of the recirc door and pulled it firmly toward the front of the glove box. Then twisted it and stuck it down in the gap behind the glove box. I imagine the a similar approach would work to "push" the door toward the back of the recirc housing. See attached pic.

Now my girlfriend doesn't complain about a cold breeze blowing on her legs, very nice! For reference I was getting code 52 (recirc travel too large). Upon inspection it appeared the door was just dangling and not responding to pressing the "Recirc" button on the dash. In this position it will allow outside air directly into the cabin. That is it is in neither "outside" or "inside" air mode.
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post #120 of 129 Old 08-18-2015, 08:39 PM
Mookiex4
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Wj What if I need Cabin Recirc instead here in Reno NV?

Quote:
Originally Posted by EMTimZJ View Post
Continuing on with the theme of off-the-wall fixes such as the 249 -> 247 yoke modification, you should not expect any less with this WJ recirculation (recirc) door fix.

The recirculation door is right above the blower motor, and the blower motor is right under the passenger side dash.

Here is the blower motor removed, and yes there is a quick disconnect for the wiring so you can pull it and get it out of the way:



Here is a picture looking directly upwards, the blower motor assembly fits directly up in here. Removes with three 7mm hex screws (blue arrows) , you can also use the torx-bit, I think it is a T-25:



Looking directly upwards again, you can see the recirculation door completely disconnected from the hinge and motor assembly. Yes it is upside down, we turned and propped it up to take a picture:



By opening the glove box and removing these two rubber dampeners (for lack of a better term) you can fully open the glove box and have it swing down all the way:



After drilling a small hole in the recirculation door, a zip-tie is now securing the door closing off the vent to the cabin recirculation. It goes through the door and attaches to one of the plastic cross bars on the grate behind the glove box:



Yes, that is it. No fussing around with removing the dash or selling your newborn on eBay to cough up the dealership prices. No you do not have control over recirculated air or outside air, but if you need that then I hope you donít stray to far from the mall parking lot! Wheel your junk and quit complaining!

I love the Fix but I am in a Cold Weather Climate like 9 months out of the year and need to close the outside air. I like what you have done, But cannot see in the pics if there is a way to close out the outside air and only use cabin air. As long as I ma under there this weekend doing the Blend doors I may as well address this one. I went ahead and bought the Recirc vent and door and cannot find a fix without removing the dash. Are there any?

Thanks guys for any help you can offer.
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