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Unread 07-12-2011, 07:26 AM   #61
fumblefingers
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2014 WK 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Geneva
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickc50310 View Post
NM. I should have read pages 2-4 also. LOL! Im sure my recirc door is my problem. Both sides blow hot or cold but the the passenger side BARELY blows whether it is hot or cold indicating to me a partial obstruction caused by a broken recirc door. Also, when i change recirc mode there doesn seem to be any change in air flow.
You have a blend door problem. This is common. There are different systems between the LTD and Leorado. The LTD has an automatic Air and it is easy to check the codes. Simply turn on the key "do not start engine", Then hold down the recirc button and the A/c button at the same time and at the same time turn the left temp knob one click. The codes will appear.

The codes and proceedures are described earier.

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Unread 08-27-2011, 10:09 PM   #62
jabone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickc50310 View Post
NM. I should have read pages 2-4 also. LOL! Im sure my recirc door is my problem. Both sides blow hot or cold but the the passenger side BARELY blows whether it is hot or cold indicating to me a partial obstruction caused by a broken recirc door. Also, when i change recirc mode there doesn seem to be any change in air flow.
99 GCL
I was going through the discovery phase of what needed to be fixed today before buy parts. I was getting the recirc errors also. I was also getting the "passenger side BARELY blows whether it is hot or cold..." issue. I was completely frustrated, because if you set the air to blow to the feet only the air pressure felt consistent on both the driver and passenger side. I was really thinking something had fallen into the passenger's side duct work.

I was trying to decide if I really needed to perform surgery to find out, I pulled the radio facade off to see if I could feel anything down the vents. I then pulled the lighter/ashtray facade off and finally unscrewed the HVAC brains from the front panel. When I did this, I felt cold air blowing from where the HVAC controls were. I noticed that the air duct work (lack of better term is coming to mind) was separated by about an inch from rest of the duct work. When I pushed the separated piece back down (towards the firewall) I immediately got consistent pressure between the passenger and drivers side vents.

I attempted to use Duct Tape to close the opening. After driving for 2 hours in Austin (with the temp setting at "LO" - I live in Austin it was 107 today) I noticed that the passenger side pressure went back to what it was before Duct Taped.

Removed the facades and the HVAC brain and used Silver Tape (Google this "CS Hyde Metalized Mylar Tape with Acrylic Adhesive"). And everything seems to be holding.

If you guys have a better suggestion on how to better close the opening, please post.

Now I am going to play with the ricirc door wedge to keep the inside air in.
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Unread 08-28-2011, 06:31 PM   #63
Kheeney5
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabone View Post
99 GCL
I was going through the discovery phase of what needed to be fixed today before buy parts. I was getting the recirc errors also. I was also getting the "passenger side BARELY blows whether it is hot or cold..." issue. I was completely frustrated, because if you set the air to blow to the feet only the air pressure felt consistent on both the driver and passenger side. I was really thinking something had fallen into the passenger's side duct work.

I was trying to decide if I really needed to perform surgery to find out, I pulled the radio facade off to see if I could feel anything down the vents. I then pulled the lighter/ashtray facade off and finally unscrewed the HVAC brains from the front panel. When I did this, I felt cold air blowing from where the HVAC controls were. I noticed that the air duct work (lack of better term is coming to mind) was separated by about an inch from rest of the duct work. When I pushed the separated piece back down (towards the firewall) I immediately got consistent pressure between the passenger and drivers side vents.

I attempted to use Duct Tape to close the opening. After driving for 2 hours in Austin (with the temp setting at "LO" - I live in Austin it was 107 today) I noticed that the passenger side pressure went back to what it was before Duct Taped.

Removed the facades and the HVAC brain and used Silver Tape (Google this "CS Hyde Metalized Mylar Tape with Acrylic Adhesive"). And everything seems to be holding.

If you guys have a better suggestion on how to better close the opening, please post.

Now I am going to play with the ricirc door wedge to keep the inside air in.
I have this exact problem, do you think that there is any way you can post a picture of what the problem was? I think I understand, but I looked behind the lighter/ash tray and couldn't figure it out.
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Unread 08-28-2011, 08:27 PM   #64
jabone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kheeney5 View Post
I have this exact problem, do you think that there is any way you can post a picture of what the problem was? I think I understand, but I looked behind the lighter/ash tray and couldn't figure it out.
When it gets a little cooler outside, 112 today.

I did find this today:
http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wj_240799.pdf

Quote:
The heater A/C housing on these vehicles is sealed with a foam seal at the instrument panel (See Figure 1). This seal can become loose or be out of position. If this occurs, an air leak will be present in this location. This will result in reduce airflow from the center ducts. If customers complain of reduced airflow from these outlets, be sure to check this seal. This can be accomplished by removing the center outlets and reaching into the opening with your hand. This seal can usually be repositioned without disassembly of the instrument panel.
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Unread 11-15-2011, 04:25 PM   #65
JadedViking
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I was having the problem with the blend doors and the recirc door on my 04 JGC (auto dual zone). I bought the $150 metal blend doors and swapped them out but now I have NO air blowing from the vents. Before I did the blend door fix I was getting cold air out of the vents and it blew very well. I did the function check on the blend doors and they were working correctly. Im guessing that now the recirc door has probably fallen down and is blocking the airflow? I dont really hear anything no matter how low or high the setting is for the air... this is very frustrating!
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Unread 11-15-2011, 05:58 PM   #66
JadedViking
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Well.. I did the zip tie method and disabled the recirc fan air totally. I then discovered that the blower motor didnt even come on at all...turned out that the plug had come loose and need to be reattached. Now all is well and the I get hot and cold air! This forum is amazing and saved me over $1000!
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Unread 12-20-2011, 04:59 PM   #67
fumblefingers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runverferth View Post
Any trick to removing the blower motor itself? There is a huge thick wire harness right by it. It's so thick I can't even move it to get the blower motor out. Am I missing something? Or is there an easy way to get the blower motor out? Help!
It is prett easy. just remove the 3 torx screws and it will fall out. Before removing screw mark a withess mark with a white magic marker to make reallignment easy. Don't wory about the cable. Leave it in for now.
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Unread 12-21-2011, 04:26 PM   #68
runverferth
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Great pics. I just did this an it works! Thanks! With the recirc door tied to this position, is it in "recirc" mode or "outside air coming in" mode?
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Unread 12-21-2011, 04:33 PM   #69
runverferth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMTimZJ View Post
Continuing on with the theme of off-the-wall fixes such as the 249 -> 247 yoke modification, you should not expect any less with this WJ recirculation (recirc) door fix.

The recirculation door is right above the blower motor, and the blower motor is right under the passenger side dash.

Here is the blower motor removed, and yes there is a quick disconnect for the wiring so you can pull it and get it out of the way:



Here is a picture looking directly upwards, the blower motor assembly fits directly up in here. Removes with three 7mm hex screws (blue arrows) , you can also use the torx-bit, I think it is a T-25:



Looking directly upwards again, you can see the recirculation door completely disconnected from the hinge and motor assembly. Yes it is upside down, we turned and propped it up to take a picture:



By opening the glove box and removing these two rubber dampeners (for lack of a better term) you can fully open the glove box and have it swing down all the way:



After drilling a small hole in the recirculation door, a zip-tie is now securing the door closing off the vent to the cabin recirculation. It goes through the door and attaches to one of the plastic cross bars on the grate behind the glove box:



Yes, that is it. No fussing around with removing the dash or selling your newborn on eBay to cough up the dealership prices. No you do not have control over recirculated air or outside air, but if you need that then I hope you donít stray to far from the mall parking lot! Wheel your junk and quit complaining!
Just did this and it worked great! Thanks! With the recirc door tied to this position, is it in "recirc" mode or "outside air coming in" mode?
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Unread 02-11-2012, 03:09 AM   #70
Roosky81
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What's better to use, 7mm Allen Key or what size Torx?
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Unread 05-08-2012, 01:55 PM   #71
mac5155
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Just wanted to say THANKS to the OP, etc, for providing me with this simple, cheap, and easy solution. I did not feel like ripping the entire dash apart. Had it fixed in 15 minutes with a drill and some zip ties. I'll leave it on "fresh air" the whole time until I experience some problems. I don't think the recirc button got any use, anyway
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Unread 05-08-2012, 02:48 PM   #72
dr hook
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I did this mod, but I did it the EXACT OPPOSITE way lol. I used a piece of allthread, with some nuts and washers, and wedged the door the opposite way. The way I did it, my system is always in "recirc mode".
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Unread 05-21-2012, 11:07 AM   #73
mah
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When doing this fix, do I need to disconnect the recirc door motor? From the OP's instructions it just seems like I keep the door in place with a zip tie and that's it. What happens when the motor tries to move the door between positions? Every time I shut off the jeep it seems to move the door (and I hear that creaking noise lots of people talk about).

I'm looking at this solution because I get error code 52. I first noticed a problem when with the AC on (both sides set to LOW), the passenger vents were heating while the drivers were cooling normally. After turning off the Jeep and back on, the drivers was AC while the passenger side was just normal vent (outside temperature air). I could still set the heat properly on both sides so I don't think its the blend doors though something is fishy.
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Unread 06-08-2012, 12:36 PM   #74
kiloniner
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I just wanted to post and say thank you to EMTimZJ and the other posters in this thread. I fixed my recirc door with this fix, although I used some coat hangar wire and zip ties to force the recirc to stay on. I live in Florida and "fresh" air in the summer isn't good if you want to stay cool. Haha.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mah View Post
When doing this fix, do I need to disconnect the recirc door motor? From the OP's instructions it just seems like I keep the door in place with a zip tie and that's it. What happens when the motor tries to move the door between positions? Every time I shut off the jeep it seems to move the door (and I hear that creaking noise lots of people talk about).
I did not disconnect anything. I pulled the 3 screws from the blower to unattach it. I let the blower hang while I rigged the door in place and then put the blower back in. It did help to have the glove box off so I could reach in and work the wire and zip ties though.

In my case, the hinge was broken off on the door without any way to reattach it to the axle. So even if the axle does spin and try to move the door, there's nothing to move and I doubt it will hurt anything.

What error codes are you getting? 52 is the recirc door. Other error codes will indicate whether your blend doors are jacked.
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Unread 06-08-2012, 02:42 PM   #75
KloppWJ
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I'll be returning to the states very soon from a deployment and I believe my 99 LTD has this problem. Started last winter and ended up jamming paper towels all over the glove box area to try to keep the November Montana air out. It was not a pleasant trip for the passenger to say the least. Would it be safe to assume at this point that its the recirc door? From what I just read it sounds like a pretty solid culprit. I'm all about quick fixes but what exactly is breaking? I know I cant tell till I see it but how hard can this be to fix the right way?
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