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Unread 09-28-2012, 07:45 PM   #76
Mudder_Trucker
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: North Benton, OH
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Tail Lights

Im a bit of a new guy around here, but i have heard of a tail light problem with WJ's...

Problem: Tailights work when they want to. Brake lights work sometimes, turn signals work sometimes, etc.

Cause: The standard incandescent bulb gets hot, and warps the circuit board behind the bulbs.

Solution: If your tails are fine, get LED bulbs (3157's available from many LED light websites such as vleds.com, or even from Summit Racing.)

If your tails are acting like mentioned, look into replacing them.

The dealer wants $130 Per Side for an OEM Tail Light. I got LED tail lights from ebay for $175 for the pair. IMO, theyre a good investment.

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Unread 09-28-2012, 10:48 PM   #77
MadMonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudder_Trucker View Post
Im a bit of a new guy around here, but i have heard of a tail light problem with WJ's...

Problem: Tailights work when they want to. Brake lights work sometimes, turn signals work sometimes, etc.

Cause: The standard incandescent bulb gets hot, and warps the circuit board behind the bulbs.

Solution: If your tails are fine, get LED bulbs (3157's available from many LED light websites such as vleds.com, or even from Summit Racing.)

If your tails are acting like mentioned, look into replacing them.

The dealer wants $130 Per Side for an OEM Tail Light. I got LED tail lights from ebay for $175 for the pair. IMO, theyre a good investment.
Huh. I've never heard of that being a chronic problem. I've had my WJ for ten years now and I think I have replaced only one burnt out tail light bulb.
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Unread 09-29-2012, 12:04 PM   #78
Mudder_Trucker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMonk

Huh. I've never heard of that being a chronic problem. I've had my WJ for ten years now and I think I have replaced only one burnt out tail light bulb.
Really? I've heard a lot of people having problems with them. Maybe only older WJs had that issue. Mine is an earlier 99. My buddy had that issue, lots of ppl on another forum. I thought it was a common problem. Nobody mentioned it...
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Unread 09-29-2012, 01:18 PM   #79
narnwv
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it's never an issue with the light bulb, it's the spring contacts in the bulb sockets that are the problem, that CAN end up melting the circuit board in the light housing.
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Unread 09-29-2012, 02:01 PM   #80
billzcat1
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I'd like to add to this discussion about brake light failures (which are pretty frequent).

The TYC-brand taillight housings on Amazon.com are $44 each and are a perfect match to OEM. They include the bulb holders as well as new bulbs, totally plug-n-play. So if bending the contacts back doesn't work for you, there are good quality, inexpensive replacement housings available. Also good for accident repair.
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Unread 09-30-2012, 09:49 AM   #81
Mudder_Trucker
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My lights were bad when i got the Jeep, and i learned that the bulb gets hot and melts the board. I very well could be wrong, but thats what ive heard and it makes sense to me. either way, the way to avoid the tailight issues like that would be to get aftermarket LED tail lights (or non-led if you so choose) these are the ones i have:

http://media.photobucket.com/image/r...DSC_0432-1.jpg
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Unread 10-10-2012, 06:23 PM   #82
narnwv
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...p-pics-884932/
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Unread 11-12-2012, 06:22 PM   #83
jeep4venturing
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Is there a chart somewhere that will tell me what other jeep model wheels will fit my GC? I like those Rubicon wheels, found them on craigslist with some meaty tires with good tread.good price too?
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Unread 11-12-2012, 08:38 PM   #84
billzcat1
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Wheels from the following Jeeps will fit:

1999-2004 Grand Cherokee (WJ)
2005-2010 Grand Cherokee (WK)
2011-current Grand Cherokee (WK2)
2006-2010 Commander (XK)
2007-current Wrangler (JK) (including Rubicon and all special editions)

Note this is a guide for WHEELS only. Tire sizes are a whole different story and may fit fine or may require varying degrees of lift and/or trimming.
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Unread 11-23-2012, 06:27 PM   #85
pdpunome
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info to add

this is a o2 sensor complete buying/reference guide for 4.0 cali emissions.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...rands-1441546/
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Unread 11-26-2012, 09:11 AM   #86
billzcat1
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Here's a great guide to death wobble - not written by me but worthy of FAQage for sure!

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...l#post14503343
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Unread 01-11-2013, 02:28 PM   #87
ChrisHager
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HOAT Coolant and Flushing Information

I've seen quite a bit of coolant questions lately and find myself posting very similar replies to each thread. A recent thread lead me to look up some information for a little 'proof'. The sources used seem reputable. I figured all the information below might be good in the FAQ.

First of all, WJs need HOAT coolant. Many people get along fine with 'the green stuff' but if you want to do it right, go with HOAT. It's only a couple bucks more than the cheap stuff and guarantees proper protection.

Speaking of green coolant, we need to be careful about specifying what colors to use. While colors can be helpful, they don't necessarily mean anything:

Quote:
Originally Posted by http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92419/coolant-and-colors-what-are-car-makers-up-to

Despite the rainbow of colors, all antifreeze starts out colorless. Dyes are added to differentiate one brand from another, one formulation from another, and to help us see how much coolant is in that reservoir under the hood. Unfortunately, there is no universal, standardized coolant color code.
Quote:
Originally Posted by http://www.caranddriver.com/columns/top-it-up-with-green-or-orange-which-antifreeze

Instead of OAT, most new cars now use a "hybrid" antifreeze that's formulated with both OAT and the silicate inhibitors from green (Japanese hybrids have different inhibitors). It comes in too many colors to pretend this type is color-coded.
As for using HOAT coolant, the main point is corrosion inhibition.

Quote:
Originally Posted by http://www.underhoodservice.com/issue/article.aspx?contentid=39651

The addition of silicates increases corrosion protection for aluminum engines, radiators and heater cores, and helps protect the water pump against erosion wear.
And here's a little more about HOAT coolant and our WJs:


4.0

Quote:
Originally Posted by http://wjjeeps.com/service/cooling.htm#DRAIN40

Coolant recommendations and cautions:

The recommended mixture is 50/50 ethylene-glycol and low mineral content water. Never use pure antifreeze. Only Mopar Antifreeze Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with corrosion inhibitors called HOAT) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% distilled water.

Antifreeze mixture must always be at least 44%, all climates year round. Maximum protection (-90d) is provided with a 68% mixture protection. If the percentage is lower than 44 percent, engine parts may be eroded by cavitation, and cooling system components may be severely damaged by corrosion.

CAUTION: Mopar Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769) may not be mixed with any other type of antifreeze. Mixing of coolants other than specified (non-HOAT or other HOAT), may result in engine damage that may not be covered under the new vehicle warranty, and decreased corrosion protection.

CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are claimed to improve engine cooling.

4.0L coolant capacity:

1999-2000: 13.0 qts. (including 2.3 qts. for resevoir)
2001-2004: 15.0 qts. (including 1 qt. for resevoir)

4.7

Quote:
Originally Posted by http://wjjeeps.com/service/cooling.htm#DRAIN47

Coolant recommendations and cautions:

The recommended mixture is 50/50 ethylene-glycol and low mineral content water. Never use pure antifreeze. Only Mopar Antifreeze Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with corrosion inhibitors called HOAT) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% distilled water.

Antifreeze mixture must always be at least 44%, all climates year round. Maximum protection (-90d) is provided with a 68% mixture protection. If the percentage is lower than 44 percent, engine parts may be eroded by cavitation, and cooling system components may be severely damaged by corrosion.

CAUTION: Mopar Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769) may not be mixed with any other type of antifreeze. Mixing of coolants other than specified (non-HOAT or other HOAT), may result in engine damage that may not be covered under the new vehicle warranty, and decreased corrosion protection.

CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are claimed to improve engine cooling.

4.7L coolant capacity:

1999-2000: 13.0 qts. (including 2.3 qts. for resevoir)
2001-2004: 14.5 qts. (including 1 qt. for resevoir)

HOAT coolant can be purchased from the dealer or can be found at Napa, O'Reilly Auto, Amazon, etc. as Zerex G-05 for about $17/gal.


Now, when it comes to topping off or replacing your coolant, you need to be sure not to mix coolants:


Quote:
Originally Posted by http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92419/Coolant-and-colors-What-are-car-makers-up-to?Page=2

In an older engine that calls for the standard green, adding a coolant with organic acid technology dilutes the concentration of phosphates and silicates making the coolant’s metal protection less effective. In a newer engine that requires OAT or HOAT, adding the old green stuff shortens the coolant protection period.

Regarding flushing your old coolant at home, here's how I go about it with positive results:

1. Drain radiator.
2. Fill radiator with distilled water.
3. Start Jeep (with heater on) and bring to operating temperature (note, if you remove the thermostat, there is no need to bring it to operating temperature since the water will be able to circulate fully) and let the new distilled water circulate for a few minutes.
4. Turn off Jeep.
5. Let cool.
6. Repeat Steps 1-5 multiple times.

Once you've done this over and over, the distilled water should have mixed with and drained most of the old coolant out.

7. Drain the system one final time, add 2 gal of straight HOAT coolant, and top off with distilled water (the capacity for my 04 WJ is 4 gallons. If you can get 2 gallons of coolant in, you are guaranteed to have at least a 50/50 mix).

Also, when draining the radiator, less than 2 gallons comes out. WJJeeps.com states the 04 WJ holds right at 15 qts. (darn close to 4 gal), including the overflow tank. I filled the radiator with the HOAT coolant and added the 'leftovers' to the empty overflow tank. After getting hot and cold a few times, I would imagine the coolant in the overflow tank will be introduced throughout.

Now, keep in mind that the 01-04 cooling system is 15 qts. including 1 qt. for the overflow tank. The 99-00 cooling system is only 13 qts. including 2.3 qts. for the overflow tank. My refill method won't work quite as well for 99-00 unless you can come up with a way to remove more water after your last flush run.

To elaborate on the distilled water, I used it to 'flush' the system. The idea is that eventually the old coolant dilutes to mainly fresh distilled water. If the entire 4 gal system is mainly fresh distilled water, draining out as much water as you can, adding 2 gallons of HOAT coolant, then topping off with more distilled water (only if you were able to drain more than 2 gallons of distilled water from the system) will bring you to about a 50/50 mixture. This 4 gallon capacity includes the overflow tank. I was able to get 2 full gallons of HOAT coolant into my radiator/overflow tank doing the above. I should note that to drain the radiator, I removed the lower radiator hose to speed up the process. By doing this, I was able to get extra old coolant/water out of the system since the hose could empty as well.
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ChrisHager's 'Grilled' Thread

WJ Torque Specs

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But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
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The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
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Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
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Unread 01-21-2013, 04:48 PM   #88
Son-of-Beast
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: San Diego CA
Posts: 403
Since the window regulator questions seems to come up so frequently, here is my el cheapo fix

SYMPTOM - Power Window falls down (or sticks) and cannot be driven back up, sometimes sounds like the cable or motor is bunching up

CAUSE - Cheap plastic cable block on regulator fails under tension (window up direction)

FIX - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...r-fix-1459007/

NOTES - Other failures can be:

- the pulley wheel on the regulator (cable jumps the pulley wheel and loses tension - no cost to fix, just reroute cable)
- bad switch in the effected door OR the Driver Door Control
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Unread 01-26-2013, 07:51 AM   #89
j4bs4209333
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Link to repair manuals all vehicles

Hi I'm not sure where this should be posted but I wanted to share it with everyone because a lot of people on here have been very helpful to me. The site is

http://search.ebscohost.com/

Username: tech
Password: tech


Scroll down to Auto Repair Reference Center you can get repair info and diagrams on all makes and models.
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Unread 01-27-2013, 08:34 PM   #90
narnwv
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From ChrisWJ

Hello people i got bored last night a nd pulled one of my extra T-Case's out of the closet and made a video. Remember this is just a video i am just showing the guts of a NP242 not how it should or should not be done or what techniqe should be used so just take it at face value and use it as a learning tool or however you should choose to use it so if you have somthin negative or some odd reason to one up me or any other poster that happens to post up do us all a favor and keep it to your self.

Thank you
ChrisWJ






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