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Baseline 4x4 Lifetime Warranty 4340 Chromoly Axle Shaft KiClayton Off Road WJ Long Arm Kits!Clayton Off Road - JK Prototype Gas Tank Skid

Unread 01-21-2013, 04:48 PM   #61
2002 WJ 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: San Diego CA
Posts: 403
Since the window regulator questions seems to come up so frequently, here is my el cheapo fix

SYMPTOM - Power Window falls down (or sticks) and cannot be driven back up, sometimes sounds like the cable or motor is bunching up

CAUSE - Cheap plastic cable block on regulator fails under tension (window up direction)

FIX - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...r-fix-1459007/

NOTES - Other failures can be:

- the pulley wheel on the regulator (cable jumps the pulley wheel and loses tension - no cost to fix, just reroute cable)
- bad switch in the effected door OR the Driver Door Control

'Son-of-Beast' - '02 WJ Limited, 4.7, 545RFE 5-spd Auto, Quadra-Drive, KOR 2.5" BB, Rancho RS5000's, Firestone Destination AT 265/70R17's, Flowmaster DeltaFlow 40, KMA/TAG armor, JK Fuel Door, Spyder CCFL Halo Projectors, LED Taillights, LED Interior Lights - Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/s...imited-956744/
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Unread 01-26-2013, 07:51 AM   #62
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2001 WJ 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: usa
Posts: 86
Link to repair manuals all vehicles

Hi I'm not sure where this should be posted but I wanted to share it with everyone because a lot of people on here have been very helpful to me. The site is


Username: tech
Password: tech

Scroll down to Auto Repair Reference Center you can get repair info and diagrams on all makes and models.
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Unread 02-08-2013, 05:57 PM   #63
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2000 WJ 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Cross Lanes, WV
Posts: 6,227
How to remove shifter bezel / shift knobs

Originally Posted by gcjeeping View Post
You don't. Cant be done. Have to take the knobs off.

The long story. I just explained it to someone that bought a bezel from me. From the start. You may already know how to remove the center console, so if you do ignore that part.

Console out.
2 screws under the rubber piece under the ash tray.
2 screws under the cup holder.
2 screws in the box under the arm rest.
Pull the box out .
2 screws inside the center console under the box at the back each corner.
Console will come out.

Ways to remove bezel. All ways require removing the knobs.

You have to pop off both shifter knobs.
**BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE GEAR SELECTOR KNOB**. There are two wires running up into it for the OD button. There is no play in the wires to pull the knobs off, they will break. Follow the wires from the connector up the the arm for the gear selector and undo it from the points securing it to the arm. This will give you slack when you pop up the knob.

The will pull off with a real good tug (Watch you head on the roof).

My preferred method is to use a really big crescent wrench or wrench. I have a 1 5/8" one that is over 18" long. I put a rag over the open end and put it around the base of the trans selector (in 1st) and the handle on top of the 4x4 selector (in 4lo). The leverage will pop off the trans selector pretty easy with a good smack on the end of the wrench with my hand.

Do the same with the 4x4 selector and put the handle on the trans shifter shaft. Then a good smack. Both knobs are off now.

Unclip the bezel from both sides. Will slip over 4x4 shaft .

At this point you have a couple choices.

You can cut the 2 wires to the OD. Slide the bezel off and put new one on and splice the wires back together. Put the console back in and your done.

Next choice disassemble it.
Figure out how to get the pins out of the connector. Remove wires from the Slide the bezel off and put new one on.

Next choice disassemble it.

Remove the light strip

The light strip just slides over 2 pins on a little elect box. Untuck the strip from under the plastic at the front. Lift it out towards the back and then slide it of the transformer or what ever that little power box is. Set aside.

Remove light pwr box.

This box will need to come out as it is part of the harness and cant be unplugged. There are two little tabs holding it in in top. These are a pain in the a$$. I found that a sharp screw drive pushed across the tabs and remove them makes it easy to get it out. Wont effect it staying in place when you put it in. Remove box. and unattach the harness from the frame

Harness connector.

Either pop it off the metal bracket or slide it off the plastic bracket.

Wiring harness to OD should be loose already.

If you have the type shifter with the solenoid in the front that will have to be taken loose and take the bracket that the bezel clips to off.
It is held on by 2 clips in the back and sorta hinged in the front. Gently pry the clips loose and the lift by the back and the front will slip off.

Remove the wiring harness on the gear selector and light strip.

Feed the harness and shifter blinds out the old bezel.

Reassemble in reverse.

And your done.

I would just figure how to get the wires out of the connector or splice the OD wires and be done with it.

Think that it. Good luck if you decide to accept this mission.

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Unread 03-12-2013, 05:05 AM   #64
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2000 WJ 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 143
Selec-Trac dash light indicator

This information is from 99-04 Jeep Dealer Repair Manual



A part time indicator is standard equipment on all instrument clusters, but is only functional on vehicles equipped with the standard equipment Selec-Trac four-wheel drive system. The part time indicator lamp is located near the right edge of the instrument cluster overlay, just to the right of the engine coolant temperature gauge.

The part time indicator consists of the words “PART TIME” imprinted on an amber lens. The lens is located behind a cutout in the opaque layer of the instrument cluster overlay. The dark outer layer of the overlay prevents the indicator from being clearly visible when the lamp is not illuminated. The words “PART TIME” appear silhouetted in an amber field through the translucent outer layer of the overlay when the indicator is illuminated from behind by a replaceable incandescent bulb and bulb holder unit located on the instrument cluster electronic circuit board. Because this indicator may remain illuminated for extended periods, it is designed to automatically illuminate at a slightly lower intensity whenever the exterior lighting is turned On. The part time indicator is serviced as a unit with the instrument cluster lens, hood and mask unit.


The part time indicator lamp gives an indication to the vehicle operator that a part time operating mode of the four-wheel drive transfer case is selected. On vehicles with the standard equipment Selec-Trac four-wheel drive system, the part time indicator lights when the NV-242 transfer case is engaged in either the 4 X 4 Part Time or 4 Lo operating ranges. This lamp is controlled by a hard wired transfer case switch input to the instrument cluster electronic circuit board. The part time indicator lamp bulb receives battery current on the instrument cluster electronic circuit board through the fused ignition switch output (st-run) circuit whenever the ignition switch is in the On or Start positions; therefore, the lamp will always be off when the ignition switch is in any position except On or Start. The lamp bulb only illuminates when it is provided a path to ground by the transfer case switch.

The transfer case switch is connected in series between ground and the part time 4 wheel drive indicator driver input to the instrument cluster. For further information on the NV-242 transfer case and the transfer case operating ranges, (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/TRANSFER CASE - OPERATION - NV-242). The part time indicator lamp and the transfer case switch can be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools and methods.


The diagnosis found here addresses an inoperative part time indicator lamp condition. If the problem being diagnosed is related to lamp accuracy, be certain to confirm that the problem is with the lamp or transfer case switch and not with a damaged or inoperative transfer case or transfer case shift linkage. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/ TRANSFER CASE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - NV-242). If no transfer case problem is found, the following procedure will help to locate a short or open in the part time indicator lamp control circuit. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. The wiring information includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector repair procedures, details of wire harness routing and retention, connector pin-out information and location views for the various wire harness connectors, splices and grounds.




(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Disconnect the engine wire harness connector for the transfer case switch from the transfer case switch connector receptacle. Check for continuity between the ground circuit cavity of the engine wire harness connector for the transfer case switch and a good ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit to ground (G104) as required.

(2) Reconnect the battery negative cable. Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Install a jumper wire between the part time 4 wheel drive indicator WJ INSTRUMENT CLUSTER 8J - 27 SEATBELT INDICATOR (Continued) driver circuit cavity of the engine wire harness connector for the transfer case switch and a good ground. The part time indicator lamp should light. If OK, replace the faulty transfer case switch. If not OK, go to Step 3.

(3) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the instrument cluster from the instrument panel. Check for continuity between the part time 4 wheel drive indicator driver circuit cavities of the instrument panel wire harness connector for the instrument cluster and the engine wire harness connector for the transfer case switch. There should be continuity. If OK, replace the faulty part time indicator lamp bulb. If not OK, repair the open part time 4 wheel drive indicator driver circuit between the instrument cluster and the transfer case switch as required.


(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Disconnect the engine wire harness connector for the transfer case switch from the switch connector receptacle. Check for continuity between the ground circuit and the part time 4 wheel drive indicator driver circuit terminals in the transfer case switch connector receptacle. There should be no continuity. If OK, repair the shorted part time 4 wheel drive indicator driver circuit between the transfer case switch and the instrument cluster as required. If not OK, replace the faulty transfer case switch.
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Unread 03-22-2013, 09:52 AM   #65
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2000 WJ 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Montgomery, TX
Posts: 559
here is the fault code list for WJ's http://wjjeeps.com/faultcodes.htm

Found it quite handy

BTW when you turn the key three times the codes will flash on the odo display. in cas no one knew that
Colorado Jeep Club Member #271 2000 4.7L WJ
1980 Ford F100 4.9L I6 <------- My baby

Man makes the weather then stands in the rain and says S*** its rainin
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Unread 08-21-2013, 08:03 PM   #66
Chicken in a Turkey Suit
2003 WJ 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 8,546
Here's a Suspension Glossary as it pertains to WJs.

understanding "how suspension works" is far beyond what can be conveyed with a single forum thread. I'd suggest going to "How Stuff Works dot com" and looking up suspension. There are many books written on suspension design. Get in there and start playing with things and see how they relate.

Suspension Components

Control arms - are responsible for "controlling" and locating an axle or knuckle as it moves through its travel. In our case, the control arms are where caster can be adjusted (with aftermarket arms) and also responsible for maintaining the proper driveshaft angle. On an even greater scale, the control arms are what are responsible for the position of the wheels in the wheel wells as the axle moves up and down. The lengths and angles of the control arms also affects handling, braking, and acceleration with how body roll, squat, and anti-squat are handled (but that's on the advanced side of suspension considerations).

On the WJ, there are 2 upper and 2 lower control arms on the front axle, and a single upper control arm (see "A-arm") and 2 lower control arms on the rear axle

A-arm - a control arm that mounts in two places on the body/frame and a single place on the axle. Also called a "wishbone" on some types of suspension. The WJ uses a large A-arm at the top of the rear axle to act as both the control arm and as the track bar - it controls the arc of motion up/down and also positions the axle side-to-side. There is a single ball joint at the axle side and two rubber bushings at the body side.

Track Bar(s) - A track bar is responsible for positioning the axle side-to-side. It is referred to in some applications as a panhard bar or panhard rod. As the axle moves up and down, the track bar will force the axle to move side-to-side slightly. In general, the movement of the axle up and down eventually creates binding between the arc that the control arms force the axle to travel and the arc that the track bar forces the axle to travel. The track bar should (in general) be parallel to the drag link to prevent "bump steer". The WJ has only a single track bar (on the front axle) but most solid-axle Jeeps have a track bar both front and rear.

Knuckle (or spindle) - this is the housing at the ends of the axle where the brakes, wheel bearing, and hubs mount. They are connected to the main axle housing by two ball joints (see below) which let the knuckle turn. The rear axle on our Jeeps does not have a knuckle but the front.

Hub - The hub is the portion of the knuckle where the wheel and brake rotor attach. It is supported by the unit bearing and to a lesser extent, the axle shaft. The wheel studs are pressed into the hub, pass through the brake rotor, and then through the wheel.

Unit Bearing - This is a fancy term for wheel bearing. It is a large, sealed double-tapered bearing assembly that is directly responsible for supporting the entire weight of the vehicle PLUS any cornering or impact forces. They are considered a wear item. Wear can be accelerated by off-road driving, abuse, wheel spacers, and lower-backspace wheels.

Ball Joints - a type of flex joint that only allows motion on one axis - twisting. This allows the knuckle to rotate in place as you steer it. THere are two ball joints on each side of the front axle.

Sway bars - also called "anti-roll bars" and "anti-sway bars". It has nothing to do with trailer sway, that's a different issue. Sway bars are a torsion spring that links one side of the axle to the other. They reduce body roll (aka "roll stiffness") on that particular axle and can affect how the other axle "feels". For instance - a stiffer rear sway bar reduces roll at the rear of the vehicle but in turn makes the steering seem more responsive. A sway bar works as follows: as you travel around a corner, one side of the suspension compresses and the other droops. The sway bar twists, transferring more force from the drooping wheel to the compressing wheel and helping level the vehicle as well as providing more grip at the compressing wheel. Sway bars can also limit the overall amount of travel available if they are tuned too stiff for the application. They also cause both sides of the axle to be more affected by a bump in the road. Many Jeepers disconnect their sway bars off-road to improve wheel travel and ride comfort. There are both stiffer sway bars and weaker sway bars available - to improve street and trail performance, respectively. With sway bars, what works great on the street works poorly for the trail.

Sway bar end links - connects the sway bar to the axle (front) or to the frame (rear). These are often replaced with "quick disconnects" that make it easier to disconnect the sway bar(s) for off-road driving.

Springs - Duh, springs! Springs are directly responsible for providing roll stiffness and supporting the axle in a position away from the vehicle. The stiffer the spring, the less the body will roll under cornering, the less it will squat and dive under acceleration and braking, and the less it will compress with a heavy load. The stiffer the spring, the harsher the ride (in general).

Shocks - Shocks are energy absorbers that absorb energy differently in each direction. They tend to heavily damp the upward forces while being more free-moving in the downward direction - this allows for better weight transfer during cornering. The shocks are directly responsible for the ride comfort in the vehicle and also keeping the body motions controlled (and thus, the force applied to the tires much more constant). Weak shocks can reduce traction at the tire as the suspension cycles up and down and force is transferred off the tire (briefly). A secondary effect of all shock absorbers is that they apply some additional roll stiffness by reducing the rate at which the body roll occurs - but not affecting the total amount of body roll you will experience in steady-state cornering (like on a skid pad).

Spring Isolators - these are found between the spring and the body and between the spring and the axle. They are metal-reinforced rubber discs that reduce the amount of vibration and noise that are transmitted from the road to the cabin. As they compress over time, they can be responsible for lost ride height (sag).

Bump Stops - these are foam-rubber bumpers between the axle and the body. They prevent the axle from travelling too far upward on large bumps or when flexing off-road. This is necessary because it will both keep the tires from stuffing up into the fenders and chewing up the sheet metal AND will keep the shocks from hitting the bottom of their travel (bottoming out) and permanently damaging the shocks.

Lift Components
Budget Boost - a simple lift consisting of polyurethane (or sometimes metal) spacers. These are placed between the axle and spring or between the body and the spring to get a modest lift for little investment. These are usually 1.75" to 2.5" in length, some as high as 3" (although there is much more needed at 3" lift, so why bother with spacers?)

Adjustable Track Bar As with a standard track bar, this provides lateral support for the axle as it travels up and down. As the WJ is lifted, the axle shifts to the driver's side. The adjustable track bar allows you to re-center the axle.

Quick Disconnects Also called "Quicker Disconnects" (by JKS), these allow the front sway bar to be quickly disconnected from the front axle without using any tools.

Adjustable Control Arms - These arms are adjustable in length, allowing the user to fine-tune the caster, driveline angle, and re-center the wheel in the wheel well.

Flex Joint - These are pivot points - usually at the ends of control arms - that replace rubber bushings and allow the arm to pivot more freely. "Johnny Joint" is a common brand of flex joint made by Currie.

Long Arms - These are replacement long arms that use a new mounting point either bolted or welded to the frame. The longer arm allows flatter control arm angles for a smoother ride and more available wheel travel.

Steering Components
Drag Link - this connects the steering gear (or steering box) to the front axle knuckles. It is what controls the steering angle of the passenger side wheel by means of input from the pitman arm. The drag link is adjustable, this adjustment is part of centering the steering wheel.

Tie Rod - this connects the passenger side knuckle to the driver's side knuckle (at least on the WJ). On many Jeeps, the tie rod doesn't attach to the passenger side knuckle at all, but rather to mid-way in the drag link in the "inverted y" steering arrangement. The tie rod is adjustable, this adjustment is for setting the total toe figure during vehicle alignment.

Tie Rod End - a form of flexible joint found in the steering system. It allows the joint to pivot on 3 axes - it can move on 2 axes like a joystick and also can rotate in place. These are common wear items that cause issues with imprecise steering and even the dreaded Death Wobble. There are two tie rod ends on the drag link and two on the tie rod.

Steering Stabilizer - this connects between the axle housing and either the drag link or the tie rod (depending on your setup). It is a 50/50 damper. Basically, a shock absorber that absorbs energy equally in both directions (unlike your actual shocks). This will absorb most of the energy from hitting a bumper or a pothole. It also helps reduce resonant effects in the steering system and keeps tiny bumps from magnifying into Death Wobble.

Pitman Arm - this is a torque arm that comes out of the steering gear (steering box). It has a large spline on one end and a tapered hole on the other end. This is what converts the rotational motion inside the steering gear into an actual linear motion. The tapered hole connects to the drag link by means of a tie rod end.

Bump Steer - the process by why the steering angle changes as the axle travels up and down. This is NOT the same as hitting and pothole and feeling the steering wheel jerk.

Death Wobble - the process where the front axle of the Jeep moves uncontrollably from side-to-side. This is a form of resonance in the steering system/axle that can be caused by many different factors - including but not limited to - excessive tire pressure, tire wear, tire damage, worn tie rod ends, worn drag link ends, torn track bar bushings, improper alignment, worn ball joints. Death Wobble is very unsettling and usually occurs at higher speeds (45mph+) and cannot be stopped until the Jeep slows down nearly to a stop. Here is an example of Death Wobble:
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Unread 11-16-2013, 05:10 PM   #67
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2001 WJ 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Provo, UT
Posts: 95
Multiple videos

Power steering leak and hose repair

Blinker relay crack repair

Complete Dashboard removal for fixing heater core, blend doors, AC/evap

Transmission solenoid pack replacment

Throttle body and idle control valve cleaning

transmission input and output speed sensor replacement

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Unread 12-20-2013, 08:49 AM   #68
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02-04' 4.7L WJ Hydraulic Fan Solenoid JOB/FIX

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Unread 01-15-2014, 01:09 PM   #69
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Jeep ZJ, XJ, and WJ axle information, everything and more....

  • D30: (HP & LP)
  • D35: (REAR)
  • D44: (REAR & FRONT)
  • D60: (REAR & FRONT)
  • Ford 8.8" & 9" (REAR)


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Unread 01-15-2014, 01:16 PM   #70
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LOOKING FOR PARTS OR PART #'s? You can start here, below....

OEM connectors, pigtails & harnesses, every single one....


OEM look up for parts and accessories, every single thing.....

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Unread 04-13-2014, 07:37 AM   #71
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2000 WJ 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: longmont, Colorado
Posts: 62
how to reset the perform maintenance light on the overhead after oil change.

Turn key on (don't start)----> hit step till it displays 0 miles til service---->press and hold reset.
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Unread 04-23-2014, 07:49 AM   #72
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2004 WJ 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Springfield, Illinois
Posts: 4,583
Easy & Instant Build Sheet: Get your build sheet RIGHT NOW!
His: 2004 WJ - OME HD 'Kolak' Lift - Build Thread
His: 1979 J-10 - 3" on 33s - Build Thread
Hers: 2000 TJ

ChrisHager's 'Grilled' Thread

WJ Torque Specs

Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
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Unread 07-29-2014, 02:19 PM   #73
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The Dreaded "Bad MPG Tips"


OK, let’s assume that you’ve just bought your beloved JEEP, You’ve had it a short time now and already you started to notice poor MPG (Low double figures) lets look first at what may cause this:
1/ Are you aware now that you have a vehicle that is driving two heavy axles all the time? It’s no longer a two wheel drive (Unless some of you already have only that application or type) the vehicle itself weighs close on two tonnes and is a heavy piece of kit to lug around.
2/ Assuming that you knew this when you purchased the vehicle, have you had a good look around the vehicle to check that both the foot brakes and emergency park brake are not binding on?? Early models with Teves Calipers were prone to this binding or seizing. Makes sure that the guide pins are free and that the pistons are working. , make sure all wheels run free and are not interfering in any way. This will result in poor gas mileage if not corrected and is a common issue.
3/ Have you checked all your tyre pressures and equalized them to ride on the same PSI?? Low tyre pressures also play a part on low MPG.

Assuming that the above has been carried out and that the mileage is still low – When was the vehicle last serviced?? What was done to it during that service?
A routine service, plugs, oil filter, air filter is going to help so make sure before we start to delve, that this has been carried out to manufacturers spec. and that the car still runs smooth through the rev band and load. On high mileage vehicles a fuel cleaner would be recommended through the tank to clean the lines and the injectors. A recent test carried out proved as much as 6bhp can be regained.
A Good source of information is to carry out a compression test to see how healthy the engine actually is. Remember if the compressions are low the tuning gains for better MPG are going to be minimal…
Okay, now we have to start digging a little deeper into the bowels of the engine. A good on tune spark plug should be a nice golden brown, any moisture or sooting indicates that already there’s a problem that needs investigating. Has the injector failed and over fuelling, does it have a nice even spray pattern, Has your MAF (Mass Air Flow) Meter expired (If you have one.), some vehicles have this on the airflow intake others have a small sensor, either way it needs checking out.. Check that all 6 or 8 pending on, are golden coloured… an emissions test done by a portable gas analyser on the exhaust will confirm this.(Gunsons -Can be hired) When was the last time the fuel filter changed? A Choked filter can reduce performance and restrict the engine by as much as 3bhp..
Some of the forum members talk of “Stuttering or spitting”. What condition are the coilpacks in? When were they last replaced? A rule of thumb is to replace at ever 80k miles and is fairly norm for the manufacturer to advise this. Don’t forget they’ve been on there since the vehicle was born so by the time you’re getting it, they may well have degraded to a weak spark. Another common problem is heat failure. The heat of the engine and where they are located will of course cause failure over time as they expand in heat and contract on cooling or cold. Always carry a new one or known good one to bail you out. Another point… when were the leads changed?? I only used Magnecor leads as the come in various sizes (Diameter) and colour.. and found no performance issues at all and better, cleaner response on pick up.
So now we’ve looked at fuelling and spark, so our engine is starting to feel a little bit healthier than before, but still we need to keep looking.
A key are during service is the air filter, often overlooked. A choked air filter can make all the difference to fuel mileage, so when did you say you last changed it?? REMEMBER: It takes three things to make combustion – AIR, FUEL, SPARK/IGNITION. If none or one of them is not healthy then we can almost certainly expect issues. Again a choked or dirty filter can have a detrimental effect by 2bhp…
So let’s move over to some of the not obvious areas:
A dirty throttle will also cause poor fuel consumption. Remove the Throttle body and examine the butterfly and its action. Is it black and sticking? The butterfly (Disc) should be spotless, using carburettor cleaner, spray until absolutely spotless. You should be able the hold the body up to the light and see a very thin line of light around the disc. Make sure that the disc and bore is perfectly clean and has no carbon ridges on its surface, lubricate with light oil (3 in 1) and work in and re install. You may find that this will result in a lower rpm and will require the TPS to be recalibrated accordingly or replaced.
Another, area of guidance is to do the “key dance” and read the codes. Common issues are the O2 sensors, remember they don’t last for ever and chances are that they will need replacing, these if faulty will send out false reading to the ECU asking for more fuel. Resulting in overfuelling and poor mileage. Only use MOPAR parts at this point as the Jeep is temperamental with spurious parts and false readings can occur..
An area often overlooked is the condition of the wiring to the sensors. Don’t forget that over time these have been subjected to heat, water and dampness, so have a good look at the wiring and don’t just assume that because they are all there that they are OK. I’ve had wiring on an O2 sensor look fine but in fact needed replace for a good three feet all because it had deteriorated so badly it was like pencil lead. It just kept breaking!! Most commonly they just snap at the connector and it’s a matter of splicing and soldering in a new piece followed by shrink wrapping and vulcanised tape for good measure.
A dodgy fuel pump can also be a culprit. Remember: AIR/FUEL/ SPARK? So what happens if this fails? Most commonly are three symptoms: Firstly on start-up there is a loud whine or hiss, a strong indicator that the pump is heading south. Secondly it can be accompanied by stuttering performance or surging as it fails to deliver properly, and thirdly it can just fail!! Resulting in non-starting. A less common issue is that it performs normally but on cruise or heavy load it manifests itself on cutting out (Low Fuel Pressure) or stuttering, again the need to replace is necessary

Have a look here:

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Unread 08-08-2014, 01:08 PM   #74
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2004 WJ 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Springfield, Illinois
Posts: 4,583
Thread Consolidation

This is a temporary post consolidating quite a bit of this thread before moving it to the FAQ.


The Comprehensive BDS/FatBob's 2" Lift Thread

12 Things to Know About Lifted Suspension Engineering

Extending Rear Sway Bar End Links Using Spacers


Front Axle Spring Perch Repair

5x5 Wheel Cross Reference Chart

Front and Rear Brake Rotor and Pad Removal and Installation

Engine/Transmission/Transfer Case

Transfer Case Fluid Change - NV242

The Chrysler 545RFE is One Hell Of A Tough Transmission And Here’s Why

2004 4.0 I6 Jeep Grand Cherokee Camshaft, Timing Set, and Lifter Replacement

NV3500 5 Speed Swap

4.0L CCV Elbow Removal Guide/Tips Write Up

Jeep WJ 247-231 Swap

Jeep WJ 247-242HD Swap

WJ Radiator Replacement Write-Up w/ Pics

4.7L Exhaust Manifold Bolt Info


How to Center the Steering Wheel

Dual Steering Stabilizer Write Up


Fan Relay Test

Fan Relay Removal and Replacement

Dual Battery Optima Odyssey in Stock 4.7L Location

Diagnostic Trouble Codes

Power Inverter Install

LED Mods

WJ Flasher Repair Picture Guide

Bluetooth Light Switch


WJ Jeeps

Front Wiper Repair - Fix Your Paranormal Wipers!

Rear Wiper Repair - Refurbishing/Repairing the WJ's Rear Wiper Motor

Dual Control Blend Door R&R without Dash Removal

Cheap WJ Recirculation Door Fix

Window Regulator Replacement (with Video)

Off-Road Tips and Techniques

State by State Vehicle Equipment Laws

Factory Hitch Installation

His: 2004 WJ - OME HD 'Kolak' Lift - Build Thread
His: 1979 J-10 - 3" on 33s - Build Thread
Hers: 2000 TJ

ChrisHager's 'Grilled' Thread

WJ Torque Specs

Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
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