WJ FAQ - Help contribute here! - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > WJ Grand Cherokee Forum > WJ FAQ - Help contribute here!

Stainless Steel Door Hinge PinsPoly Door Hinge BushingsIntroducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line

Reply
Unread 03-19-2012, 02:26 PM   #46
00JGC00
Registered User
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: South Jordan, UT
Posts: 6,737
WJ Factory Components Average Life Expectancy

I thought it would be useful to try and see what the average life expectancy is for various factory components on the WJ.

Here are some threads to vote in (if you've replaced the factory part) and to review:

Alternator:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...tancy-1345240/

Starter:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...tancy-1345247/

Fuel Pump:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...tancy-1345595/

Driver-Side Exhaust Manifold Bolts:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...n-yet-1345730/

__________________
"The" Matt | '00 Limited WJ | "The White Wolf" aka "Willow" aka "Cool Whip" aka "Sweet 'N Low" aka "AKA"
Utah JeepCrew #39 | Club Matt #1
December '11 GCOTM | Build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/life-times-979511/
00JGC00 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-01-2012, 12:17 AM   #47
j4bs4209333
Registered User
2001 WJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: usa
Posts: 85
Save $$ on parts at Advance Auto huge discounts

If you have an Advance Auto Parts near you here's how to save $$. You shop online, add your items to your cart and make sure you select pickup in store at the location you want to pick them up at. Once you're done shopping, before you pay, go to www.retailmenot.com and get the coupon code that gives the best discount for the dollar amount you spend. You can enter the coupon code before checking out to make sure it works. Once you have the best code for the $$ amount then you pay online, print out the receipt and go pick it up at the store you selected. The website says ready in one hour, but I've gone there many times 5 minutes after paying and they are fine with it. You can pay with a credit card or paypal. A lot of new parts end being cheaper than junkyard parts because of the coupon codes. The coupons are not valid for oil and most other fluids, otherwise they work on mostly everything else. If you're smart, or cheap like I am, you have to figure out if it's better to do 2 separate orders. Example...you need 2 parts @ $100 each, they have a coupon for $50 off a $150 purchase, but you're better off buying the items in 2 separate transactions because you get $35 off an $85 purchase so you end up with $70 off instead of $50. Since I'm super cheap I use them all the time for parts and I know the codes to use for the best discounts. Below is a list of the best ones to use. Do not use the % off codes unless you're buying one high priced item over $250. Spend a minute to look for better codes, the % off codes don't save you that much.

Code Description

RAF7JA1102 $35 Off Orders of $85 or More (the biggest discount)
BIG30 $30 Off Orders of $75 or More
RETMENOT123 $10 off $30--$20 off $50--$30 off $100
BIG15X $15 Off Orders of $40 or More

If you are spending $150 or more and it's on a single item use this one

VISA $50 off $150

If you buy one single item over $250 this one gets the best discount

P20 20% off entire order
j4bs4209333 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-06-2012, 01:07 AM   #48
kody22
Registered User
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Kennewick, Wa
Posts: 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by j4bs4209333
If you have an Advance Auto Parts near you here's how to save $$. You shop online, add your items to your cart and make sure you select pickup in store at the location you want to pick them up at. Once you're done shopping, before you pay, go to www.retailmenot.com and get the coupon code that gives the best discount for the dollar amount you spend. You can enter the coupon code before checking out to make sure it works. Once you have the best code for the $$ amount then you pay online, print out the receipt and go pick it up at the store you selected. The website says ready in one hour, but I've gone there many times 5 minutes after paying and they are fine with it. You can pay with a credit card or paypal. A lot of new parts end being cheaper than junkyard parts because of the coupon codes. The coupons are not valid for oil and most other fluids, otherwise they work on mostly everything else. If you're smart, or cheap like I am, you have to figure out if it's better to do 2 separate orders. Example...you need 2 parts @ $100 each, they have a coupon for $50 off a $150 purchase, but you're better off buying the items in 2 separate transactions because you get $35 off an $85 purchase so you end up with $70 off instead of $50. Since I'm super cheap I use them all the time for parts and I know the codes to use for the best discounts. Below is a list of the best ones to use. Do not use the % off codes unless you're buying one high priced item over $250. Spend a minute to look for better codes, the % off codes don't save you that much.

Code Description

RAF7JA1102 $35 Off Orders of $85 or More (the biggest discount)
BIG30 $30 Off Orders of $75 or More
RETMENOT123 $10 off $30--$20 off $50--$30 off $100
BIG15X $15 Off Orders of $40 or More

If you are spending $150 or more and it's on a single item use this one

VISA $50 off $150

If you buy one single item over $250 this one gets the best discount

P20 20% off entire order
That's good to know
kody22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-20-2012, 10:26 AM   #49
jeepittydodah
Registered User
1999 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 3
I just completed this Axle seal leak job, in my driveway. Darn sway bar bolts are difficult to wrench back in all the way, I may have to hit them with air. My big learning tip is to be careful when reinstalling the axle. One side of the square flange has a little indent on it which matches up to a protruding brake part. First timers make sure you match that indent up correctly or 1 of your 4 bolts will not line up with its hole in hub assembly and you will not be able to put the axle in the shaft all the way, much less bolt up the 4 bolts. And access to the top bolts on the Diff pan is a little easier if you lower the axle just low enough below the gas tank hinderance to reach them. This was not that difficult a job, even in the driveway, thanks to the excellent pictures provided. But access to a lift would have made it fairly painless. thanks for the instructions, saved me a bunch of money over dealer estimate ($400 at least).
jeepittydodah is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-21-2012, 07:22 PM   #50
kristi5683
Member
 
kristi5683's Avatar
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Dallas/Fort Worth , TX, Haslet, TX
Posts: 382
Axle Shaft lengths for Varilock and Non-Varilock systems:

Non-Varilock:
long side- 35 1/8"
short side-19 3/8"

Varilock:
long side- 36 3/8"
short side-18 3/8"



Also a nice little tip for axle shaft seal replacements:
A CV joint Cage fits nicely around the shaft seals without crushing the rubber. If you ever replace your CV joints or have one go bad, keep the cage. I couldnt find my seal installer tool anywhere and ruined 2 seals trying to get it in until I decided to improvise. It works nicely since the cage also allows you to hold it in position better than a lot of tools.It's important to remember if you do use it for this, don't plan on ever putting it back in a CV joint.
kristi5683 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-28-2012, 07:45 PM   #51
Mudder_Trucker
Registered User
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: North Benton, OH
Posts: 118
Tail Lights

Im a bit of a new guy around here, but i have heard of a tail light problem with WJ's...

Problem: Tailights work when they want to. Brake lights work sometimes, turn signals work sometimes, etc.

Cause: The standard incandescent bulb gets hot, and warps the circuit board behind the bulbs.

Solution: If your tails are fine, get LED bulbs (3157's available from many LED light websites such as vleds.com, or even from Summit Racing.)

If your tails are acting like mentioned, look into replacing them.

The dealer wants $130 Per Side for an OEM Tail Light. I got LED tail lights from ebay for $175 for the pair. IMO, theyre a good investment.
Mudder_Trucker is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-28-2012, 10:48 PM   #52
MadMonk
Registered User
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Piedmont, OK
Posts: 252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudder_Trucker View Post
Im a bit of a new guy around here, but i have heard of a tail light problem with WJ's...

Problem: Tailights work when they want to. Brake lights work sometimes, turn signals work sometimes, etc.

Cause: The standard incandescent bulb gets hot, and warps the circuit board behind the bulbs.

Solution: If your tails are fine, get LED bulbs (3157's available from many LED light websites such as vleds.com, or even from Summit Racing.)

If your tails are acting like mentioned, look into replacing them.

The dealer wants $130 Per Side for an OEM Tail Light. I got LED tail lights from ebay for $175 for the pair. IMO, theyre a good investment.
Huh. I've never heard of that being a chronic problem. I've had my WJ for ten years now and I think I have replaced only one burnt out tail light bulb.
__________________
'99 WJ Limited 4x4, 4.0L, Patriot Blue Metallic, IRO 3" springs, track bar, and rear sway bar links, Doetsch Tech 8000 shocks, Tenneco steering stabilizer, Carolina Driveline double-cardan front drive shaft.
MadMonk is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-29-2012, 12:04 PM   #53
Mudder_Trucker
Registered User
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: North Benton, OH
Posts: 118
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMonk

Huh. I've never heard of that being a chronic problem. I've had my WJ for ten years now and I think I have replaced only one burnt out tail light bulb.
Really? I've heard a lot of people having problems with them. Maybe only older WJs had that issue. Mine is an earlier 99. My buddy had that issue, lots of ppl on another forum. I thought it was a common problem. Nobody mentioned it...
Mudder_Trucker is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-29-2012, 01:18 PM   #54
narnwv
Moderator
 
narnwv's Avatar
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Cross Lanes, WV
Posts: 6,227
it's never an issue with the light bulb, it's the spring contacts in the bulb sockets that are the problem, that CAN end up melting the circuit board in the light housing.
__________________
~Aaron

narnwv is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-29-2012, 02:01 PM   #55
billzcat1
Chicken in a Turkey Suit
2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 8,546
I'd like to add to this discussion about brake light failures (which are pretty frequent).

The TYC-brand taillight housings on Amazon.com are $44 each and are a perfect match to OEM. They include the bulb holders as well as new bulbs, totally plug-n-play. So if bending the contacts back doesn't work for you, there are good quality, inexpensive replacement housings available. Also good for accident repair.
billzcat1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-30-2012, 09:49 AM   #56
Mudder_Trucker
Registered User
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: North Benton, OH
Posts: 118
My lights were bad when i got the Jeep, and i learned that the bulb gets hot and melts the board. I very well could be wrong, but thats what ive heard and it makes sense to me. either way, the way to avoid the tailight issues like that would be to get aftermarket LED tail lights (or non-led if you so choose) these are the ones i have:

http://media.photobucket.com/image/r...DSC_0432-1.jpg
Mudder_Trucker is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-12-2012, 08:38 PM   #57
billzcat1
Chicken in a Turkey Suit
2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 8,546
Wheels from the following Jeeps will fit:

1999-2004 Grand Cherokee (WJ)
2005-2010 Grand Cherokee (WK)
2011-current Grand Cherokee (WK2)
2006-2010 Commander (XK)
2007-current Wrangler (JK) (including Rubicon and all special editions)

Note this is a guide for WHEELS only. Tire sizes are a whole different story and may fit fine or may require varying degrees of lift and/or trimming.
billzcat1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-23-2012, 06:27 PM   #58
pdpunome
Web Wheeler
 
pdpunome's Avatar
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: , NJ
Posts: 998
info to add

this is a o2 sensor complete buying/reference guide for 4.0 cali emissions.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...rands-1441546/
__________________
2000 4.0 Selec Trac
pdpunome is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-26-2012, 09:11 AM   #59
billzcat1
Chicken in a Turkey Suit
2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 8,546
Here's a great guide to death wobble - not written by me but worthy of FAQage for sure!

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...l#post14503343
billzcat1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-11-2013, 02:28 PM   #60
ChrisHager
Web Wheeler
 
ChrisHager's Avatar
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Springfield, Illinois
Posts: 4,568
HOAT Coolant and Flushing Information

I've seen quite a bit of coolant questions lately and find myself posting very similar replies to each thread. A recent thread lead me to look up some information for a little 'proof'. The sources used seem reputable. I figured all the information below might be good in the FAQ.

First of all, WJs need HOAT coolant. Many people get along fine with 'the green stuff' but if you want to do it right, go with HOAT. It's only a couple bucks more than the cheap stuff and guarantees proper protection.

Speaking of green coolant, we need to be careful about specifying what colors to use. While colors can be helpful, they don't necessarily mean anything:

Quote:
Originally Posted by http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92419/coolant-and-colors-what-are-car-makers-up-to

Despite the rainbow of colors, all antifreeze starts out colorless. Dyes are added to differentiate one brand from another, one formulation from another, and to help us see how much coolant is in that reservoir under the hood. Unfortunately, there is no universal, standardized coolant color code.
Quote:
Originally Posted by http://www.caranddriver.com/columns/top-it-up-with-green-or-orange-which-antifreeze

Instead of OAT, most new cars now use a "hybrid" antifreeze that's formulated with both OAT and the silicate inhibitors from green (Japanese hybrids have different inhibitors). It comes in too many colors to pretend this type is color-coded.
As for using HOAT coolant, the main point is corrosion inhibition.

Quote:
Originally Posted by http://www.underhoodservice.com/issue/article.aspx?contentid=39651

The addition of silicates increases corrosion protection for aluminum engines, radiators and heater cores, and helps protect the water pump against erosion wear.
And here's a little more about HOAT coolant and our WJs:


4.0

Quote:
Originally Posted by http://wjjeeps.com/service/cooling.htm#DRAIN40

Coolant recommendations and cautions:

The recommended mixture is 50/50 ethylene-glycol and low mineral content water. Never use pure antifreeze. Only Mopar Antifreeze Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with corrosion inhibitors called HOAT) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% distilled water.

Antifreeze mixture must always be at least 44%, all climates year round. Maximum protection (-90d) is provided with a 68% mixture protection. If the percentage is lower than 44 percent, engine parts may be eroded by cavitation, and cooling system components may be severely damaged by corrosion.

CAUTION: Mopar Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769) may not be mixed with any other type of antifreeze. Mixing of coolants other than specified (non-HOAT or other HOAT), may result in engine damage that may not be covered under the new vehicle warranty, and decreased corrosion protection.

CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are claimed to improve engine cooling.

4.0L coolant capacity:

1999-2000: 13.0 qts. (including 2.3 qts. for resevoir)
2001-2004: 15.0 qts. (including 1 qt. for resevoir)

4.7

Quote:
Originally Posted by http://wjjeeps.com/service/cooling.htm#DRAIN47

Coolant recommendations and cautions:

The recommended mixture is 50/50 ethylene-glycol and low mineral content water. Never use pure antifreeze. Only Mopar Antifreeze Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with corrosion inhibitors called HOAT) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% distilled water.

Antifreeze mixture must always be at least 44%, all climates year round. Maximum protection (-90d) is provided with a 68% mixture protection. If the percentage is lower than 44 percent, engine parts may be eroded by cavitation, and cooling system components may be severely damaged by corrosion.

CAUTION: Mopar Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769) may not be mixed with any other type of antifreeze. Mixing of coolants other than specified (non-HOAT or other HOAT), may result in engine damage that may not be covered under the new vehicle warranty, and decreased corrosion protection.

CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are claimed to improve engine cooling.

4.7L coolant capacity:

1999-2000: 13.0 qts. (including 2.3 qts. for resevoir)
2001-2004: 14.5 qts. (including 1 qt. for resevoir)

HOAT coolant can be purchased from the dealer or can be found at Napa, O'Reilly Auto, Amazon, etc. as Zerex G-05 for about $17/gal.


Now, when it comes to topping off or replacing your coolant, you need to be sure not to mix coolants:


Quote:
Originally Posted by http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92419/Coolant-and-colors-What-are-car-makers-up-to?Page=2

In an older engine that calls for the standard green, adding a coolant with organic acid technology dilutes the concentration of phosphates and silicates making the coolant’s metal protection less effective. In a newer engine that requires OAT or HOAT, adding the old green stuff shortens the coolant protection period.

Regarding flushing your old coolant at home, here's how I go about it with positive results:

1. Drain radiator.
2. Fill radiator with distilled water.
3. Start Jeep (with heater on) and bring to operating temperature (note, if you remove the thermostat, there is no need to bring it to operating temperature since the water will be able to circulate fully) and let the new distilled water circulate for a few minutes.
4. Turn off Jeep.
5. Let cool.
6. Repeat Steps 1-5 multiple times.

Once you've done this over and over, the distilled water should have mixed with and drained most of the old coolant out.

7. Drain the system one final time, add 2 gal of straight HOAT coolant, and top off with distilled water (the capacity for my 04 WJ is 4 gallons. If you can get 2 gallons of coolant in, you are guaranteed to have at least a 50/50 mix).

Also, when draining the radiator, less than 2 gallons comes out. WJJeeps.com states the 04 WJ holds right at 15 qts. (darn close to 4 gal), including the overflow tank. I filled the radiator with the HOAT coolant and added the 'leftovers' to the empty overflow tank. After getting hot and cold a few times, I would imagine the coolant in the overflow tank will be introduced throughout.

Now, keep in mind that the 01-04 cooling system is 15 qts. including 1 qt. for the overflow tank. The 99-00 cooling system is only 13 qts. including 2.3 qts. for the overflow tank. My refill method won't work quite as well for 99-00 unless you can come up with a way to remove more water after your last flush run.

To elaborate on the distilled water, I used it to 'flush' the system. The idea is that eventually the old coolant dilutes to mainly fresh distilled water. If the entire 4 gal system is mainly fresh distilled water, draining out as much water as you can, adding 2 gallons of HOAT coolant, then topping off with more distilled water (only if you were able to drain more than 2 gallons of distilled water from the system) will bring you to about a 50/50 mixture. This 4 gallon capacity includes the overflow tank. I was able to get 2 full gallons of HOAT coolant into my radiator/overflow tank doing the above. I should note that to drain the radiator, I removed the lower radiator hose to speed up the process. By doing this, I was able to get extra old coolant/water out of the system since the hose could empty as well.
__________________
His: 2004 WJ - OME HD 'Kolak' Lift - Build Thread
His: 1979 J-10 - 3" on 33s - Build Thread
Hers: 2000 TJ

ChrisHager's 'Grilled' Thread

WJ Torque Specs

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
ChrisHager is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools






Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.