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Poison spyder items @ oconee off road 706 534 9955Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!The Ruffstuff NOT Universal 4 Link Kit!

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Unread 03-14-2011, 03:26 PM   #16
lazebum
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2001 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NOVA, VA
Posts: 243
This is not mine, I got it from another website and i am using it next weekend. Didnt see one this well done so i thought i would post it.
PART 1 OF 2

Changing axle seals on a D35C rear end (bearings, collars, e-brake shoes, and rear pads also!)

I let this go WAY too long, so as a result I had some additional work to do (namely my e-brake shoes and rear pads were SOAKED in diff oil/grease and had to be replaced)

Before you tear into the project, you'll need the following:
  • D35C Axle Seals
  • D35C Bearings
  • D35C collars
  • E-Brake Shoe Set
  • Rear Pads
  • Differential Oil
  • Bearing grease
Most of the tools you need are standard stuff, except for the slide hammer (rent from Autoparts store) and the press work needed at an Automotive Machineshop. I had access to a press, but didn't have the proper press plates, (nor was the press tall enough for the axles)

I am fortunate enough to have a shop area to work in (I'm also swapping a Lexus V8 into my 4Runner in this space). Getting started:




Getting Started



Jack up the vehicle and properly support with jackstands. Pull off the rear wheels.




Jacked Up on Stands with the Tire Removed



These need a bit of a cleanup...that's not brake dust, it's gear oil...




Grimey Wheel



To make life easier on yourself, unbolt the rear swaybar - there are two bolts on each side of the axle.




Unbolt the Swaybar



Remove the diff cover bolts and pry off the cover to drain the fluid:




Pull the diff cover and drain the fluid



Remove the two bolts holding the caliper on and suspend the caliper from the coil spring (I used a wiretie, but a piece of coat hanger or other wire would work also. The main thing is to keep pressure off the brake hoose (don't hang by the hose):




Remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts



Pop the rotor off of the axle (a light rap with a dead blow mallet will do the trick)




Light tap with a dead blow frees the disc



Yep, pretty greasy under there...no wonder my e-brake wasn't working.




Oil-coated e-brake



Not an issue with solid rotors, but the holes in the Stillens were caked with grease, so a little parts cleaning was in order.




Parts washer is handy for cleaning up the oil soaked parts



Unbolt the axle flange from the rear of the caliper mount (4 nuts):




ABS Sensor



Someone mentioned that the Haynes manual says to remove the ABS sensor at this point - I did not do this, but was just careful around it. Bolt up the slide hammer and have at it. The WJ doesn't use a C-Clip axle, so there is nothing to do in the diff except drain the fluid.




Slide Hammer Attached



Out it comes...




Axle Pulled




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01 4.0 WJ - Kolak Brake upgrade, Addaco rear sway bar, 3' OME springs, JKS Adj Track Bar, Bilstine Shocks, MOOG Steering Stablizer and TRE's, IRO SYE front kit with a Double Cardan drive shaft, DANA 44a rear swap, booster seat, 7yrold Son, "Don't Tread On Me" Sticker and plates, oh yeah that is how i roll!!
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Unread 03-14-2011, 03:28 PM   #17
lazebum
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OK - you'll notice the e-brake is off already. I staged the last two pics for the sake of the writeup.
Here's a good pic of the reassembled e-brake setup for reference. The spring clips and retainer pins must be removed to pull this assembly. It was pretty easy with the axle removed - gave much more room to work on it.

[/URL]

E-brake Setup

Take your axle over to your drillpress if you have one (hand drill would probably work too). Use a 3/8" bit to drill into the collar. IMPORTANT: be sure not to drill into the axle - you just want to weaken the collar by removing some materal.

[/URL]

Drilling Collar

Take a cold chisel and place a corner of it in the hole you drilled and give it a whack.

[/URL]

Cold Chisel to the Drilled Collar

This will crack the collar and make it slip right off.

[/URL]

Collar Split

[/URL]

Collar can be removed

Repeat this process for the other side and take the axles with the seals, bearings, collars and grease to your favorite automotive machine shop.
Now's a good time to clean up your rear brake sheilds and other stuff that was coated in oil. What a filthy job this was.

[/URL]

Cleaned up brake shield

One thing - make sure you pull the old bearing race out of the axle tube. These are designed to seat in the axle tube when you seat the axle assembly.

[/URL]

Bearing Race

Now that you have your axles back from the machine shop, you are ready to reassemble. I reassembled the e-brake prior to reinserting the axles since I liked the extra room to work with. Here's the axle ready to go back in:

[/URL]

Assembled Axle

Insert the axles back into the tubes and carefully get the splines engaged into the diff. Make sure you keep the axles on the correct sides - they are not the same length. Once you feel the axle seat, give it a couple of tapes with a deadblow mallet. Reinstall the nuts on the axle flange studs.
Time to adjust the e-brake shows. Slip the rotor back on the axle and rotate it listening for the shoes dragging. The piece next to the spring with the wheel on it is rotated to extend/retract the e-brake the shoe position. They make a special tool for this, but I just used a screwdriver and the heel of my hand to bump it. I have enough special tools.

[/URL]

Reassemble E-brake

I had popped the existing rear pads earlier, there is a wire that holds the outer pad in place and the inside pad has a clip that fits into the hole on the shown in the center of the caliper shown below. I used a "C" clamp to spread the caliper a bit to make getting the caliper back over the rotor easier.

[/URL]

Pull old pads from caliper

[/URL]

Install new pads

That clip is a b###h...

[/URL]

The pad clips were tough to get back on

Bolt the calipers back onto the axles.
Clean up the diff cover surfaces, reapply the Mopar diff sealant and bolt the cover back on. FIll 'er up and rebolt the swaybar to the axle.
Put your wheels back on and get it back on 4 wheels. Thought I'd get my spare into the rotation...

[/URL]

All back together

There you have it. Mine got a test of a 1300 mile vacation trip the day after I completed this. No leaks!!
__________________
01 4.0 WJ - Kolak Brake upgrade, Addaco rear sway bar, 3' OME springs, JKS Adj Track Bar, Bilstine Shocks, MOOG Steering Stablizer and TRE's, IRO SYE front kit with a Double Cardan drive shaft, DANA 44a rear swap, booster seat, 7yrold Son, "Don't Tread On Me" Sticker and plates, oh yeah that is how i roll!!
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Unread 03-15-2011, 07:58 PM   #18
straty1987
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the turn signal not working is a common problem, its the flasher relay and it has a hair line crack that keeps it form working.

you can fix it yourself or buy a new one and pop it in, but can only get it form the dealer this is the parthttp://www.justforjeeps.com/flasher.html

its in a tight to get to but you can get it.
first remove the fuse cover on the bottom left, it pops off.
then you have to remove the small plastic that is above the the steering wheel, it pops right off.


then you have to remove the big plastic piece under the steering wheel.



the relays are located above the fuses so get a flashlight, put your head on the floor and look up. the flasher relay is on the top row in the middle,its the one that stick out the most. can wiggle it out and if needed use a pair of needle noise pliers to wiggly it a bit to start it. its the one label combination flasher at the top and the relays at the bottom are what you normally see after you pull that small cover off


now you have it out and you can see 2 push tabs on the sides, use a small flat screwdriver to pop the cover off. now its time to repair the real problem, a hair line crack on one of points against the plastic wall (its a row of 8 or 9 points) just look for crack on one of them, might need a magnifier glass. when you find it you will need to re-solder that point and any other with a crack in it. make sure you don't solder 2 points together.


then just put it back together and in the jeep and your good to go.
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Unread 03-18-2011, 07:16 PM   #19
Aathos
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Projector Headlights and HIDs

There are many people selling projector headlight housings for WJs, but there are only three styles of projector headlights for WJs. All of these styles are available in chrome, black or smoked finishes.
The Gen I has three LEDs in upper corner near the grill.
The Gen II has a row of five oval lights along the bottom.
The Gen III looks most like stock with a bar along the bottom and 3 LEDs for the side turn signals.
There is no factory connection for the halos, but they can be spliced into the parking lights, turn signals, or fog lights.

HIDs should only be put in projector housings so that you don't blind on-coming cars. Also, only put them in the low beams. The warm up time makes them unsuitable for high beams. 6000K bulbs are generally recommended, though some people like 5000K bulbs. There are also many vedors for HID kits, but DDM Tuning is a popular source.
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Unread 03-18-2011, 07:46 PM   #20
straty1987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aathos View Post
Projector Headlights and HIDs

There are many people selling projector headlight housings for WJs, but there are only three styles of projector headlights for WJs. All of these styles are available in chrome, black or smoked finishes.
The Gen I has three LEDs in upper corner near the grill.
The Gen II has a row of five oval lights along the bottom.
The Gen III looks most like stock with a bar along the bottom and 3 LEDs for the side turn signals.
There is no factory connection for the halos, but they can be spliced into the parking lights, turn signals, or fog lights.

HIDs should only be put in projector housings so that you don't blind on-coming cars. Also, only put them in the low beams. The warm up time makes them unsuitable for high beams. 6000K bulbs are generally recommended, though some people like 5000K bulbs. There are also many vedors for HID kits, but DDM Tuning is a popular source.
good info i can add

- the projection housing on ebay and the web for the GC use a 9006 bulb for the low so the light is aimed a bit center with a standard bulb or hid kit compared to a real projection lens.
-still have to adjust the housing since they might be off.
-most people go for 6000K since it has a hint of blue. 4300K will give you the most light output. a car with factory HID is at 4900K
-55W HID kit are 40% brighter than the standard 35w kits. since they are brighter the life is less on a bulbs.
- a 55W kit end to wash out some of the color of the HID bulb due to the light output (for example, a 55w 8000k will look similar in color to a 35w 6000k kit).
-55W kits are not good for fogs due to the heat in a small spot
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Unread 05-02-2011, 12:36 PM   #21
FleshEater
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Here is a half assed write up (more for information sake) on installing an Aussie Locker in the WJ Dana 35.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...nstall-1208490
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Unread 07-08-2011, 04:50 PM   #22
narnwv
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I believe that the part numbers for the factory Rzeppa-> DC drive shaft conversion would be handy to have in the FAQ.

Here are the JEEP part numbers for the Yokes, but those are useless to anyone not associated with Chrysler. Once I figure out Spicer part numbers, I'll update.

05019514aa

and 5019624aa
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Unread 07-15-2011, 02:01 PM   #23
narnwv
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D30 yoke - 26 spline
D44A yoke - 29 spline

247J front tcase yoke - 26 spline
247J rear tchase output shaft - 26 spline
247J transfer case input shaft - 23 spline
247J input shaft length - 2.4125"

242JHD front tcase yoke - 32 spline
242JHD rear tcase output shaft - 32 spline
242JHD transfer case input shaft - 23 spline
242JHD input shaft length - 2.4125"

I copied this from another thread, but it's not entirely accurate. My 2001 242wj from an I6 (non-hd) has a 32 spline front output.
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Unread 07-30-2011, 08:55 AM   #24
narnwv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kristi5683 View Post
Just some FYI on axles shafts. The lengths are slightly different when comparing a dana 30 "varilock" front axle to the dana 30 "non varilock" its not super obvious if you just glance at them. These axle shafts are NOT interchangable.

Definitely good info to be in here, might not hurt to have some common part numbers listed as well from the usual parts sources (rockauto.com, Advance, Autozone, Napa, etc...)
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Unread 08-18-2011, 08:51 PM   #25
narnwv
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The info in this post should be added about the different electric fan setup in 99-03 vs 2004 model:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/.../#post12044247
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Unread 08-28-2011, 03:50 PM   #26
marco2287
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**painting plastic cladding**

Hey everyone, I've seen the question asked over and over about how to paint the plastics around your WJ.

I just re-did mine this weekend so I thought I'd take some pics and help some people out.

Here's how the plastic was looking before any work.






Now the prep work, picture this kind of setup on each side of the vehicle:



And then how it looks after: The uneven spots on the front bumper are just damage in the plastic.





Before painting I did do some sanding to remove any dirt that was perma-stuck to the plastic and also to roughen it up for the paint to stick better. The black colour you see is RockerGuard which is a rubberized paint, and after it was dry I put a coat of Krylon Clear Coat over it to give it a bit more shine and protection.
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Unread 08-30-2011, 02:18 PM   #27
bushido7seven
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marco2287 View Post
Hey everyone, I've seen the question asked over and over about how to paint the plastics around your WJ.

I just re-did mine this weekend so I thought I'd take some pics and help some people out.

Here's how the plastic was looking before any work.






Now the prep work, picture this kind of setup on each side of the vehicle:



And then how it looks after: The uneven spots on the front bumper are just damage in the plastic.





Before painting I did do some sanding to remove any dirt that was perma-stuck to the plastic and also to roughen it up for the paint to stick better. The black colour you see is RockerGuard which is a rubberized paint, and after it was dry I put a coat of Krylon Clear Coat over it to give it a bit more shine and protection.
Or you can use eagle one trim. That product is the best. it lasts for about a month. its like armor all but stronger.
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Unread 10-18-2011, 08:43 PM   #28
superbuick
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One thing I see often mentioned (and have searched for myself) is the cat-back exhaust options for the WJ. I know of (so far):

Kolak (varies, mild to loud)
Borla (stainless, quiet)
Magnaflow (stainless, medium)
Dynomax (aluminized steel, medium)

It would be good to know other options that exist, and the materials/prices/loudness/etc. I'm sure its a common upgrade, and my WJ at 160k is due for a new exhaust - I'd for sure like to get the one that best balances my needs with the budget!
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Unread 12-08-2011, 08:31 AM   #29
sxr951
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Wj

I have seen on you tube that some head light housings have the same bulb insert but teh hid bulbs are to long to fit! rendering the housing useless for HID. i dont no what gen it was..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aathos View Post
Projector Headlights and HIDs

There are many people selling projector headlight housings for WJs, but there are only three styles of projector headlights for WJs. All of these styles are available in chrome, black or smoked finishes.
The Gen I has three LEDs in upper corner near the grill.
The Gen II has a row of five oval lights along the bottom.
The Gen III looks most like stock with a bar along the bottom and 3 LEDs for the side turn signals.
There is no factory connection for the halos, but they can be spliced into the parking lights, turn signals, or fog lights.

HIDs should only be put in projector housings so that you don't blind on-coming cars. Also, only put them in the low beams. The warm up time makes them unsuitable for high beams. 6000K bulbs are generally recommended, though some people like 5000K bulbs. There are also many vedors for HID kits, but DDM Tuning is a popular source.
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Unread 12-08-2011, 01:13 PM   #30
ChrisHager
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It is located in the Suspension Info sticky.
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