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Unread 03-18-2011, 07:16 PM   #16
Aathos
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2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 25
Projector Headlights and HIDs

There are many people selling projector headlight housings for WJs, but there are only three styles of projector headlights for WJs. All of these styles are available in chrome, black or smoked finishes.
The Gen I has three LEDs in upper corner near the grill.
The Gen II has a row of five oval lights along the bottom.
The Gen III looks most like stock with a bar along the bottom and 3 LEDs for the side turn signals.
There is no factory connection for the halos, but they can be spliced into the parking lights, turn signals, or fog lights.

HIDs should only be put in projector housings so that you don't blind on-coming cars. Also, only put them in the low beams. The warm up time makes them unsuitable for high beams. 6000K bulbs are generally recommended, though some people like 5000K bulbs. There are also many vedors for HID kits, but DDM Tuning is a popular source.

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Unread 03-18-2011, 07:46 PM   #17
straty1987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aathos View Post
Projector Headlights and HIDs

There are many people selling projector headlight housings for WJs, but there are only three styles of projector headlights for WJs. All of these styles are available in chrome, black or smoked finishes.
The Gen I has three LEDs in upper corner near the grill.
The Gen II has a row of five oval lights along the bottom.
The Gen III looks most like stock with a bar along the bottom and 3 LEDs for the side turn signals.
There is no factory connection for the halos, but they can be spliced into the parking lights, turn signals, or fog lights.

HIDs should only be put in projector housings so that you don't blind on-coming cars. Also, only put them in the low beams. The warm up time makes them unsuitable for high beams. 6000K bulbs are generally recommended, though some people like 5000K bulbs. There are also many vedors for HID kits, but DDM Tuning is a popular source.
good info i can add

- the projection housing on ebay and the web for the GC use a 9006 bulb for the low so the light is aimed a bit center with a standard bulb or hid kit compared to a real projection lens.
-still have to adjust the housing since they might be off.
-most people go for 6000K since it has a hint of blue. 4300K will give you the most light output. a car with factory HID is at 4900K
-55W HID kit are 40% brighter than the standard 35w kits. since they are brighter the life is less on a bulbs.
- a 55W kit end to wash out some of the color of the HID bulb due to the light output (for example, a 55w 8000k will look similar in color to a 35w 6000k kit).
-55W kits are not good for fogs due to the heat in a small spot
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Unread 05-02-2011, 12:36 PM   #18
FleshEater
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Location: Hell, PA
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Here is a half assed write up (more for information sake) on installing an Aussie Locker in the WJ Dana 35.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...nstall-1208490
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Unread 07-08-2011, 04:50 PM   #19
narnwv
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Location: Cross Lanes, WV
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I believe that the part numbers for the factory Rzeppa-> DC drive shaft conversion would be handy to have in the FAQ.

Here are the JEEP part numbers for the Yokes, but those are useless to anyone not associated with Chrysler. Once I figure out Spicer part numbers, I'll update.

05019514aa

and 5019624aa
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Unread 07-15-2011, 02:01 PM   #20
narnwv
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D30 yoke - 26 spline
D44A yoke - 29 spline

247J front tcase yoke - 26 spline
247J rear tchase output shaft - 26 spline
247J transfer case input shaft - 23 spline
247J input shaft length - 2.4125"

242JHD front tcase yoke - 32 spline
242JHD rear tcase output shaft - 32 spline
242JHD transfer case input shaft - 23 spline
242JHD input shaft length - 2.4125"

I copied this from another thread, but it's not entirely accurate. My 2001 242wj from an I6 (non-hd) has a 32 spline front output.
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Unread 07-30-2011, 08:55 AM   #21
narnwv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kristi5683 View Post
Just some FYI on axles shafts. The lengths are slightly different when comparing a dana 30 "varilock" front axle to the dana 30 "non varilock" its not super obvious if you just glance at them. These axle shafts are NOT interchangable.

Definitely good info to be in here, might not hurt to have some common part numbers listed as well from the usual parts sources (rockauto.com, Advance, Autozone, Napa, etc...)
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Unread 08-28-2011, 03:50 PM   #22
marco2287
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Location: Skead, ON
Posts: 141
**painting plastic cladding**

Hey everyone, I've seen the question asked over and over about how to paint the plastics around your WJ.

I just re-did mine this weekend so I thought I'd take some pics and help some people out.

Here's how the plastic was looking before any work.






Now the prep work, picture this kind of setup on each side of the vehicle:



And then how it looks after: The uneven spots on the front bumper are just damage in the plastic.





Before painting I did do some sanding to remove any dirt that was perma-stuck to the plastic and also to roughen it up for the paint to stick better. The black colour you see is RockerGuard which is a rubberized paint, and after it was dry I put a coat of Krylon Clear Coat over it to give it a bit more shine and protection.
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Unread 08-30-2011, 02:18 PM   #23
bushido7seven
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Location: Bethel, CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marco2287 View Post
Hey everyone, I've seen the question asked over and over about how to paint the plastics around your WJ.

I just re-did mine this weekend so I thought I'd take some pics and help some people out.

Here's how the plastic was looking before any work.






Now the prep work, picture this kind of setup on each side of the vehicle:



And then how it looks after: The uneven spots on the front bumper are just damage in the plastic.





Before painting I did do some sanding to remove any dirt that was perma-stuck to the plastic and also to roughen it up for the paint to stick better. The black colour you see is RockerGuard which is a rubberized paint, and after it was dry I put a coat of Krylon Clear Coat over it to give it a bit more shine and protection.
Or you can use eagle one trim. That product is the best. it lasts for about a month. its like armor all but stronger.
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Unread 10-18-2011, 08:43 PM   #24
superbuick
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2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: MA
Posts: 18
One thing I see often mentioned (and have searched for myself) is the cat-back exhaust options for the WJ. I know of (so far):

Kolak (varies, mild to loud)
Borla (stainless, quiet)
Magnaflow (stainless, medium)
Dynomax (aluminized steel, medium)

It would be good to know other options that exist, and the materials/prices/loudness/etc. I'm sure its a common upgrade, and my WJ at 160k is due for a new exhaust - I'd for sure like to get the one that best balances my needs with the budget!
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Unread 12-08-2011, 08:31 AM   #25
sxr951
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2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: titusville, Florida
Posts: 51
Wj

I have seen on you tube that some head light housings have the same bulb insert but teh hid bulbs are to long to fit! rendering the housing useless for HID. i dont no what gen it was..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aathos View Post
Projector Headlights and HIDs

There are many people selling projector headlight housings for WJs, but there are only three styles of projector headlights for WJs. All of these styles are available in chrome, black or smoked finishes.
The Gen I has three LEDs in upper corner near the grill.
The Gen II has a row of five oval lights along the bottom.
The Gen III looks most like stock with a bar along the bottom and 3 LEDs for the side turn signals.
There is no factory connection for the halos, but they can be spliced into the parking lights, turn signals, or fog lights.

HIDs should only be put in projector housings so that you don't blind on-coming cars. Also, only put them in the low beams. The warm up time makes them unsuitable for high beams. 6000K bulbs are generally recommended, though some people like 5000K bulbs. There are also many vedors for HID kits, but DDM Tuning is a popular source.
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Unread 01-09-2012, 02:40 PM   #26
BandGauto
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2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 126
1999 -200? If your front drive shaft boot (the one from your transfer case to the front diffy) is torn but your CV joint is in otherwise good condition and you just want to replace the boot without spending $200 on a CV joint rebuild kit, NAPA has a boot that fits perfectly. Part #686-2332. It looks different than the original one but it works. Cost $19.
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Unread 03-19-2012, 02:26 PM   #27
00JGC00
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2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: South Jordan, UT
Posts: 6,737
WJ Factory Components Average Life Expectancy

I thought it would be useful to try and see what the average life expectancy is for various factory components on the WJ.

Here are some threads to vote in (if you've replaced the factory part) and to review:

Alternator:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...tancy-1345240/

Starter:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...tancy-1345247/

Fuel Pump:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...tancy-1345595/

Driver-Side Exhaust Manifold Bolts:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...n-yet-1345730/
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Unread 07-01-2012, 12:17 AM   #28
j4bs4209333
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2001 WJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: usa
Posts: 86
Save $$ on parts at Advance Auto huge discounts

If you have an Advance Auto Parts near you here's how to save $$. You shop online, add your items to your cart and make sure you select pickup in store at the location you want to pick them up at. Once you're done shopping, before you pay, go to www.retailmenot.com and get the coupon code that gives the best discount for the dollar amount you spend. You can enter the coupon code before checking out to make sure it works. Once you have the best code for the $$ amount then you pay online, print out the receipt and go pick it up at the store you selected. The website says ready in one hour, but I've gone there many times 5 minutes after paying and they are fine with it. You can pay with a credit card or paypal. A lot of new parts end being cheaper than junkyard parts because of the coupon codes. The coupons are not valid for oil and most other fluids, otherwise they work on mostly everything else. If you're smart, or cheap like I am, you have to figure out if it's better to do 2 separate orders. Example...you need 2 parts @ $100 each, they have a coupon for $50 off a $150 purchase, but you're better off buying the items in 2 separate transactions because you get $35 off an $85 purchase so you end up with $70 off instead of $50. Since I'm super cheap I use them all the time for parts and I know the codes to use for the best discounts. Below is a list of the best ones to use. Do not use the % off codes unless you're buying one high priced item over $250. Spend a minute to look for better codes, the % off codes don't save you that much.

Code Description

RAF7JA1102 $35 Off Orders of $85 or More (the biggest discount)
BIG30 $30 Off Orders of $75 or More
RETMENOT123 $10 off $30--$20 off $50--$30 off $100
BIG15X $15 Off Orders of $40 or More

If you are spending $150 or more and it's on a single item use this one

VISA $50 off $150

If you buy one single item over $250 this one gets the best discount

P20 20% off entire order
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Unread 07-06-2012, 01:07 AM   #29
kody22
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2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Kennewick, Wa
Posts: 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by j4bs4209333
If you have an Advance Auto Parts near you here's how to save $$. You shop online, add your items to your cart and make sure you select pickup in store at the location you want to pick them up at. Once you're done shopping, before you pay, go to www.retailmenot.com and get the coupon code that gives the best discount for the dollar amount you spend. You can enter the coupon code before checking out to make sure it works. Once you have the best code for the $$ amount then you pay online, print out the receipt and go pick it up at the store you selected. The website says ready in one hour, but I've gone there many times 5 minutes after paying and they are fine with it. You can pay with a credit card or paypal. A lot of new parts end being cheaper than junkyard parts because of the coupon codes. The coupons are not valid for oil and most other fluids, otherwise they work on mostly everything else. If you're smart, or cheap like I am, you have to figure out if it's better to do 2 separate orders. Example...you need 2 parts @ $100 each, they have a coupon for $50 off a $150 purchase, but you're better off buying the items in 2 separate transactions because you get $35 off an $85 purchase so you end up with $70 off instead of $50. Since I'm super cheap I use them all the time for parts and I know the codes to use for the best discounts. Below is a list of the best ones to use. Do not use the % off codes unless you're buying one high priced item over $250. Spend a minute to look for better codes, the % off codes don't save you that much.

Code Description

RAF7JA1102 $35 Off Orders of $85 or More (the biggest discount)
BIG30 $30 Off Orders of $75 or More
RETMENOT123 $10 off $30--$20 off $50--$30 off $100
BIG15X $15 Off Orders of $40 or More

If you are spending $150 or more and it's on a single item use this one

VISA $50 off $150

If you buy one single item over $250 this one gets the best discount

P20 20% off entire order
That's good to know
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Unread 07-20-2012, 10:26 AM   #30
jeepittydodah
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1999 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 3
I just completed this Axle seal leak job, in my driveway. Darn sway bar bolts are difficult to wrench back in all the way, I may have to hit them with air. My big learning tip is to be careful when reinstalling the axle. One side of the square flange has a little indent on it which matches up to a protruding brake part. First timers make sure you match that indent up correctly or 1 of your 4 bolts will not line up with its hole in hub assembly and you will not be able to put the axle in the shaft all the way, much less bolt up the 4 bolts. And access to the top bolts on the Diff pan is a little easier if you lower the axle just low enough below the gas tank hinderance to reach them. This was not that difficult a job, even in the driveway, thanks to the excellent pictures provided. But access to a lift would have made it fairly painless. thanks for the instructions, saved me a bunch of money over dealer estimate ($400 at least).
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