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ArloGuthroJeep 01-26-2011 08:34 PM

WJ FAQ - Help contribute here!
Do you have something you think should be added to the FAQ?

Whether it be an existing post or thread, or something small (like a WJ is 99-04), or what ever, post it up in here! After a while I'll consolidate and organize it into something more concise.

To start off, there are two links to check out:
1) The Ultimate WJ Grand Cherokee Buyers Guide
2) WJ Suspension Info Thread

narnwv 01-26-2011 08:52 PM

WJ's Equipped with Quadra-Trac II or Quadra-Drive REQUIRE Mopar-only 247 Fluid in the transfer case! There is NO substitute.

iluvtruenos 01-28-2011 11:05 AM

TSyl 01-28-2011 11:14 AM


Originally Posted by gqmdl0617 (Post 10871601)
Tranny fluid flush/change
Dash removal write up (for heater core replacement)

These are the ones I followed:

Tranny fluid flush/change -
Dash removal write up (for heater core replacement) -

For the heater core (could be used for blend door as well) I kept a bunch of zip-lock bags handy. As I worked through the procedure and hit a step where there small parts/bolts/screws/washers, etc I would place them in a bag. Write the step they were associated with on the bag with a sharpie and note on the procedure there was a bag of parts for that step. Once I had the heater core in, I simply worked backwards through the procedure grabbing the corresponding bag of parts as I went. When I finished I had no spare parts, everything was properly connected and worked great.

ChiliFrei64 01-28-2011 02:16 PM

I'm not saying steel content from another forum...... but this has some good information

straty1987 01-31-2011 09:28 PM

here is what i remember off the top of my head. i know i a have a few more like adding a, flasher relay repair, tail light repair, small emission leak help,

dual control blen dor no dash remove install writeup with pics
has info on the new kits as well


info on how to replace TC output shaft seal

mopar part number is 4897298AA for the 247 SEAL, rear OUTPUT SHAFT.

1) drive the rear of jeep up on a ramp and chock the front tiers
2) put on the parking break on, because I will have to remove the rear drive shaft and "park" does not work when the drive shaft is disconnected.
3) Drain transfer case fluid
4) mark the line across the pinion yoke so it will be installed right later, then Remove rear drive shaft and slide it out of the t-case output. oil might leak out so keep a oil pan near by and keep the TC output shaft for getting dirty or damaged.
5) The old seal is now exposed. Hook it with a "seal puller" tool and pry it out of there. Careful you are prying on the seal and not digging into the aluminum inside the housing. It should come out somewhat easily.
6) Tap the new seal in place. You can do this easily with just a rubber mallet and block of wood
7) Re-install drive shaft. Careful there is no dirt on the surface that is to seal with the t-case.
8) fill the TC with new fresh fluid

if its a 247 only use fluid form the dealer


PS hose leak on 4.7
4.7L Hydraulic Power Steering Hose is a dealer only part
part number 5019708AE

also need the right fluid from the dealer MS9602


add a 3.5mm aux jack if you have a cd changer, cost under $10

-from radio shack pick up item # 274-0246 which is A 1/8" Stereo Panel-Mount Phone Jack $2.71 with tax (NY)
- need a 3.5mm male to 3.5mm male cable to connection your device to the jack. i found one at a 99 cent store for $1.08 with tax
-Then get seem basic stereo wire or even 18 gauge wire and finger out were you to mount the 3.5mm jack.
-Cut 4 cables the same lengthen that it take to get from were you want the jack to the back of you head unit and leave some play room and one other cable for the ground
- Remove the cover around the head unit and the head unit
- following the schematic you have to find audio out left and right which is 1 & 5 on 8 pin side and 1 & 6 on the 10 pin side
- since the 10 pin side is going to the head unit we will use that one, so cut wires 1 & 6 left and right audio
- then you wire it up like this

line 1 that goes to head unit connect to pin 2 on the 3.5 mm jack
line 6 that goes to head unit connect to pin 5 on the 3.5 mm jack
line 1 that goes toward CD changer connect to pin 3 on the 3.5 mm jack
line 6 that goes toward CD changer connect to pin 4 on the 3.5 mm jack

- ground the wire going to 1 on the 3.5mm jack to the body or pin 7 on the 10 pin side
-tape it good or shrink wrap

when you select the CD change and plug something to the 3.5mm jack it will play what is connect to the 3.5mm jack. when you unplug the jack it will go back to playing the CD.


horsepower gain via

4.0 I6 (Factory ratings 180-195hp/220-235lbft)

Stage 1 (221hp/262lbft)

Bored 62mm TB
Bored 62mm TB spacer
Intake manifold heatshield
HP plugs
HP plug wires
2.5" catn'back exhaust
Header + 2.5" S-pipe
Relocated IAT sensor
Electric fan conversion
MAP adjuster

Stage 2 (257hp/292lbft)

Larger injectors
Ported big valve head
Crane #753905 camshaft
Raise CR from 8.8 to 9.5:1
Raise rev limiter to 5600rpm

Stage 3

4.6-5.0L stroker engine
Kenne Bell supercharger: 47% more HP, 53% more TQ over stock
505 Performance turbocharger: 44% more HP, 47% more TQ over stock
Nitrous Express kit: 50-75hp, 80-120lbft over stock

4.7 V8 (Factory ratings 235hp@4800rpm/295lbft@3200rpm)

Stage 1 (285hp@4700rpm/380lbft@3800rpm)

Brian Stroud's RamIT cold air intake
Kolak 3" cat-back exhaust
Modified Y-pipe + 3" high-flow cat
Mopar Performance PCM flash, Kenne-Bell Optimizer II, or Superchips Microtuner
F&B 70mm TB
KRC Performance HO camshafts & intake manifold
Remove clutch fan + short belt PS/alternator bypass
Duner's custom fuel rail cooling system

Stage 2

Kenne-Bell supercharger: 99hp over stock
Paxton Novi-1000 supercharger: 102hp/62lbft over stock
Garrett T04B turbocharger 10psi boost (custom): 144hp over stock
Nitrous Express kit: 50-150hp over stock

4.7 HO V8 (Factory ratings 265hp@5200rpm/325lbft@3600rpm)

Brian Stroud's RamIT cold air intake
Kolak 3" cat-back exhaust
Modified Y-pipe + 3" high-flow cat


adding a sub and amp info here


can repair a bad front tweeters speaker that is cracking by taking them out and placing a bead of silicon, glue, any kind of adhesive around the the outer rim were the paper meats the metal frame. can just peal off the mesh over if its still there

MGDWJ 02-01-2011 11:25 AM

How about np247 teardown info. Also linkage modifications for doing a np247 to NP 231 swap.

billzcat1 02-02-2011 08:38 PM

Here's a complete parts fiche for the 2001 WG Grand Cherokee. Not PERFECT and some of the info is not pertinent to US models, but it is helpful for seeing exploded views of systems and is 99% correct for OEM part numbers.

straty1987 02-05-2011 06:19 PM

quad tail light mod

ground wire on socket to black wire on jeep harness
Minor wire on socket ( dimmest light ) to black/yellow wire on jeep harness
Major wire on socket ( brightest light ) to white wire on jeep harness

99WJNM 02-18-2011 01:02 PM

Subject: Reference # 31975263 #, JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 4.7L MPI 4A Plate - Frame , Sandro

Dear Mr. Most,

Thank you for contacting Chrysler Italy.

As per your request concerning the possibility to use both the 424 Mobil Mopar NV247, after consultation with the department concerned, we confirm the suitability of both.

For further information we invite you to go to your Dealer or at one of the other authorized dealers Jeep that will be on-site in the "Find a Dealer. "

Our Customer Service is at your disposal at number 02 45281001 Monday to Friday from 8.30 to 17.30.


Chrysler Italy Srl

TSyl 02-24-2011 09:42 AM

Perhaps some search tips. The JF search feature will not search for anything less than 3 characters, i.e. WJ. However, you can with google.

If you specifically want to search JF enter the following in google: enter you search criteria here i.e. wj bb tire size

You can get even more specific with your search site by: enter search criteria here

This will ONLY search the WJ section of JF.


MWyatt 03-09-2011 06:01 PM

Maybe a list of the companies that make and have WJ parts/upgrades?

lazebum 03-14-2011 03:26 PM

This is not mine, I got it from another website and i am using it next weekend. Didnt see one this well done so i thought i would post it.

Changing axle seals on a D35C rear end (bearings, collars, e-brake shoes, and rear pads also!)

I let this go WAY too long, so as a result I had some additional work to do (namely my e-brake shoes and rear pads were SOAKED in diff oil/grease and had to be replaced)

Before you tear into the project, you'll need the following:
  • D35C Axle Seals
  • D35C Bearings
  • D35C collars
  • E-Brake Shoe Set
  • Rear Pads
  • Differential Oil
  • Bearing grease
Most of the tools you need are standard stuff, except for the slide hammer (rent from Autoparts store) and the press work needed at an Automotive Machineshop. I had access to a press, but didn't have the proper press plates, (nor was the press tall enough for the axles)

I am fortunate enough to have a shop area to work in (I'm also swapping a Lexus V8 into my 4Runner in this space). Getting started:

Jack up the vehicle and properly support with jackstands. Pull off the rear wheels.

Jacked Up on Stands with the Tire Removed

These need a bit of a cleanup...that's not brake dust, it's gear oil...

To make life easier on yourself, unbolt the rear swaybar - there are two bolts on each side of the axle.

Remove the diff cover bolts and pry off the cover to drain the fluid:

Pull the diff cover and drain the fluid

Remove the two bolts holding the caliper on and suspend the caliper from the coil spring (I used a wiretie, but a piece of coat hanger or other wire would work also. The main thing is to keep pressure off the brake hoose (don't hang by the hose):

Remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts

Pop the rotor off of the axle (a light rap with a dead blow mallet will do the trick)

Light tap with a dead blow frees the disc

Yep, pretty greasy under wonder my e-brake wasn't working.

Not an issue with solid rotors, but the holes in the Stillens were caked with grease, so a little parts cleaning was in order.

Parts washer is handy for cleaning up the oil soaked parts

Unbolt the axle flange from the rear of the caliper mount (4 nuts):

Someone mentioned that the Haynes manual says to remove the ABS sensor at this point - I did not do this, but was just careful around it. Bolt up the slide hammer and have at it. The WJ doesn't use a C-Clip axle, so there is nothing to do in the diff except drain the fluid.

Out it comes...

lazebum 03-14-2011 03:28 PM

OK - you'll notice the e-brake is off already. I staged the last two pics for the sake of the writeup.
Here's a good pic of the reassembled e-brake setup for reference. The spring clips and retainer pins must be removed to pull this assembly. It was pretty easy with the axle removed - gave much more room to work on it.

Take your axle over to your drillpress if you have one (hand drill would probably work too). Use a 3/8" bit to drill into the collar. IMPORTANT: be sure not to drill into the axle - you just want to weaken the collar by removing some materal.

Take a cold chisel and place a corner of it in the hole you drilled and give it a whack.[/URL]

Cold Chisel to the Drilled Collar

This will crack the collar and make it slip right off.

Repeat this process for the other side and take the axles with the seals, bearings, collars and grease to your favorite automotive machine shop.
Now's a good time to clean up your rear brake sheilds and other stuff that was coated in oil. What a filthy job this was.

One thing - make sure you pull the old bearing race out of the axle tube. These are designed to seat in the axle tube when you seat the axle assembly.

Now that you have your axles back from the machine shop, you are ready to reassemble. I reassembled the e-brake prior to reinserting the axles since I liked the extra room to work with. Here's the axle ready to go back in:

Insert the axles back into the tubes and carefully get the splines engaged into the diff. Make sure you keep the axles on the correct sides - they are not the same length. Once you feel the axle seat, give it a couple of tapes with a deadblow mallet. Reinstall the nuts on the axle flange studs.
Time to adjust the e-brake shows. Slip the rotor back on the axle and rotate it listening for the shoes dragging. The piece next to the spring with the wheel on it is rotated to extend/retract the e-brake the shoe position. They make a special tool for this, but I just used a screwdriver and the heel of my hand to bump it. I have enough special tools.

I had popped the existing rear pads earlier, there is a wire that holds the outer pad in place and the inside pad has a clip that fits into the hole on the shown in the center of the caliper shown below. I used a "C" clamp to spread the caliper a bit to make getting the caliper back over the rotor easier.

That clip is a b###h...[/URL]

The pad clips were tough to get back on

Bolt the calipers back onto the axles.
Clean up the diff cover surfaces, reapply the Mopar diff sealant and bolt the cover back on. FIll 'er up and rebolt the swaybar to the axle.
Put your wheels back on and get it back on 4 wheels. Thought I'd get my spare into the rotation...

There you have it. Mine got a test of a 1300 mile vacation trip the day after I completed this. No leaks!!

straty1987 03-15-2011 07:58 PM

the turn signal not working is a common problem, its the flasher relay and it has a hair line crack that keeps it form working.

you can fix it yourself or buy a new one and pop it in, but can only get it form the dealer this is the part

its in a tight to get to but you can get it.
first remove the fuse cover on the bottom left, it pops off.
then you have to remove the small plastic that is above the the steering wheel, it pops right off.

then you have to remove the big plastic piece under the steering wheel.

the relays are located above the fuses so get a flashlight, put your head on the floor and look up. the flasher relay is on the top row in the middle,its the one that stick out the most. can wiggle it out and if needed use a pair of needle noise pliers to wiggly it a bit to start it. its the one label combination flasher at the top and the relays at the bottom are what you normally see after you pull that small cover off

now you have it out and you can see 2 push tabs on the sides, use a small flat screwdriver to pop the cover off. now its time to repair the real problem, a hair line crack on one of points against the plastic wall (its a row of 8 or 9 points) just look for crack on one of them, might need a magnifier glass. when you find it you will need to re-solder that point and any other with a crack in it. make sure you don't solder 2 points together.

then just put it back together and in the jeep and your good to go.

The time now is 07:16 PM.

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