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Unread 11-19-2012, 05:30 PM   #16
CantFocus
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Hmm never looked at the high beam projector. Where did you pick that up from? I'm thinking of using a bi-xenon in the low beam position to work as my normal high/low, so I can install some HIDs in the high beam spot to be used as more of an auxiliary light.

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Unread 11-19-2012, 06:24 PM   #17
RYANSWJ
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Sweet write up! i'm very interested in the LED upgrade you did and it looks like you added some lights too. would you care to share your LED interior information.
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Unread 11-19-2012, 08:26 PM   #18
4Tom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CantFocus
Hmm never looked at the high beam projector. Where did you pick that up from? I'm thinking of using a bi-xenon in the low beam position to work as my normal high/low, so I can install some HIDs in the high beam spot to be used as more of an auxiliary light.
I've the bi xenon retro fitted in the low beam reflector for nearly 2 years now. Great for low beam not as good as high beam reflector but still a good addition. I find the high beam output from projector to be too tightly focused. HID is 35w 6000k but recommend 4300k or 5000k for better visible light on wet nights.


I later changed the halogen high beam bulbs to 100w and find the stock high beam reflector works very well.

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Unread 11-21-2012, 12:26 PM   #19
redmen031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CantFocus View Post
Hmm never looked at the high beam projector. Where did you pick that up from? I'm thinking of using a bi-xenon in the low beam position to work as my normal high/low, so I can install some HIDs in the high beam spot to be used as more of an auxiliary light.
That sounds like a great plan. There's definitely enough room in there for a bi-xenon unit. HID's in the high beam location, plus the low/high beam HID's would put out an insane amount of light!

The high beam projector can be bought from these guys: http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=1800
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Unread 11-21-2012, 12:32 PM   #20
redmen031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RYANSWJ View Post
Sweet write up! i'm very interested in the LED upgrade you did and it looks like you added some lights too. would you care to share your LED interior information.
Thanks!

I don't have any pictures of the install but let me try to explain what I did. I used cool white flexible LED strips, but you can use anything. There's an LED "string" of lights on the drivers side and another "string" of lights on the passenger side of the Jeep. On each side I tapped into the footwell light wires for the positive/negative. I ran a wire from the front footwell all the way to the back of the car in the trunk. I then spliced a 12 inch or so long flexible LED strip in the drivers footwell and fastened it under the kick panel for added light (instead of just replacing the stock halogen footwell bulb with LED.)


Then for the rear passengers I spliced in another LED strip and fastened that under the back of the drivers seat, facing rearward. This illuminated the floor for the driver side passenger pretty well.


The final LED strip was spliced into the end of the wire in the trunk and wedged between the rear seat and the trunk floor, facing upward to illuminate the back of the rear seat (just for a neat lighting effect.) I did the exact same thing on the passenger side of the vehicle. Splicing into the footwell stock wires means that the lights turn on/off as the courtesy lights would. Wasnt too much work and was finished in about an hour or 2.


In addition, I also replaced all of the remaining interior lights with cool white LED's. It's not uncommon to have to wear sunglasses at night in my Jeep when the interior lights are on
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Unread 07-20-2013, 03:04 AM   #21
jbaldry
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Alright, I know I'm waking up an old thread here but I just thought you should know since he originally said he used gatling gun shrouds, then corrected to mini gatling guns, that he is ACTUALLY using gatling gun 2.0 shrouds.
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Unread 07-20-2013, 06:21 PM   #22
Bigtom04
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redmen031 can you send me a pm?
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Unread 07-21-2013, 06:52 AM   #23
bowhunter69
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does any one sell them done up already? Iam glad I didn`t get the halo`s off e-bay...very interested in getting these headlights done
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Unread 07-22-2013, 07:47 AM   #24
jbaldry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowhunter69 View Post
does any one sell them done up already? Iam glad I didn`t get the halo`s off e-bay...very interested in getting these headlights done
I haven't seen these retrofits for sale but I'm also not sure why you would want to buy them! Making them is half the fun! But if money is no big deal and you feel like paying 50 or so for the new headlights, 300-500 for the retrofit and X amount for labor, then I'm sure someone around here will help.
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Unread 10-01-2013, 06:59 AM   #25
jrkarger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redmen031 View Post


Next, using a dremel tool I cut out a circle in the back of the low beam housing. If you cut it too big the shroud will fall through, but if you don't cut it big enough the projector won't fit through. Do a few passes with the dremel until it's just right. I also cut a hole in the high beam housing side but I don't have that pictured.


In order to get the Lexus projectors to sit in the shrouds perfectly, I had to grind down the inside of the shrouds with a sanding stone that i attached to my die grinder. This part was extremely frustrating but projectors did fit in the end! The top shroud in the below picture has been ground down and the bottom shroud is stock for reference.




Now seat your low and hi beam projectors in the shrouds and affix them with silicone and epoxy. I use silicone on all my retro-fits and I have never had a problem. It's flexible and waterproof which is perfect for doing retrofits (yep, I retrofit all my cars!)




Here's another tricky part. When attaching the projectors to the housing you want to get them as level as possible. You do still retain the stock headlight adjustments but you can only adjust the lights so much, so make sure to take your time and get them seated level.



Projectors glued into place with silicone and all cleaned up.
Hi, I have to say your pics look GREAT! I'm a total noob here and am interested in doing a retro-fit on my own WJ.

When you used your dremel to cut the hole in the reflector bowl, what type of blade or attachment did you put on the dremel to cut through?

I also see you glued the projectors and shrods to the reflector. I've seen some people bolt the projectors to the reflector. Is one method better than the other?

Thanks for any advice!
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Unread 10-01-2013, 12:26 PM   #26
spud2388
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I'll chime in here and throw in some input. To jrkarger, I would go over to hidplanet.com and sign up (its free) and search around under the "Headlight Retrofits" thread (I am no way affiliated with hidplanet or theretrofitsource, just giving some advice). There are quite a few people who have done retrofits in WJs, including myself.

With that said, there are basically 2 different housings to work with, the ones light stock that have 2 reflectors and the projector versions that have a projector in the low beam (ebay). If you are wanting to attempt this and don't really have any experience, I would HIGHLY recommend getting the stock ones and retrofitting them like the OP did. As a "starter" projector, the Mini H1s from theretrofitsource are a great projector to use. they have a small base, which allows little to no cutting (basically remove the stock bulb and bulb cover from the low beam reflector and stick the Mini projector in, lock it down with a nut on the back, and you're done). Doing it this way allows you to get it level easily and then still lets you have the up/down adjustability once it is all sealed back up.

Using the ebay projector versions can be more challenging, depending on which other projector you go with. The piece that holds the projector inside the housing doesn't have a small hole, but a larger hole with 4 mounting screw holes (look through the threads and you will see the difference).It can be beneficial if you are using a larger projector, but it can make it more of a hassle to get everything aligned correctly. The adjustability is better since you have 4 corners to mess with, but it can take a lot longer to fine tune and, in general, is harder to make everything fit and secure. I am not saying don't buy these, as I did for my first retrofit and everything turned out nice, but after putting the Mini H1s in my dad's Dakota, the Mini's are a breeze.

When it comes to mounting everything, it really depends on the install. I had a decent amount of cutting and JB Welding to do since I with the FX-Rs (theretrofitsource). They are on the bigger end of the projectors, but are nice...

Again, I would just look at some installs, read up on little tips and tricks, and just do it. Between JB Weld and a dremmel, you should be able to get something that is functional and will gain a huge amount of experience for your next retrofit.
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Unread 10-01-2013, 03:33 PM   #27
vanillathrilla
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That is one REALLY nice looking WJ! Great job on the lights
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Unread 10-01-2013, 06:02 PM   #28
Pedro7
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Now that is cool. Now I just need to steal the projectors from my girlfriends Lexus, hope she doesn't notice...
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Unread 10-02-2013, 07:33 AM   #29
jrkarger
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Spud, thanks for the tips. I have already been lurking around HIDPlanet and TheRetroFitSource reading up on things and doing research. I'm glad to hear say that the stock housings are easier to work with because I definitely prefer that look over the ebay housings.

I will look into that thread on HIDPlanet and the mini H1s.

Given this is my first retrofit and before I spend the money and potentially ruin a brand new set of OEM housings, I'm thinking of running to a junkyard or pull-a-part place and picking up a scrapped OEM housing to "practice".
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Unread 10-02-2013, 07:49 AM   #30
spud2388
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I will have to warn you that the OEM housings are MUCH harder to take apart than the oem look-a-likes on ebay. The glue used on the OEM takes a lot more heat to get it soft, which can lead to melting if you are not careful. If I was you, I would just grab a replacements from ebay since the housings are not as hard to get apart. They run around $80 for a pair online and I am sure you will pay close to that from a junk yard. Just my 2 cents.

But to the OP, great job!
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