Wj axles - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 13 Old 09-18-2017, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
Tim95zj
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Wj axles

Hey everyone! I'm looking to swap the oem rear axles for a stronger Dana 35. Do you guys know of any really good axles to use? The idea behind it is to upgrade the axles so I can run 35s without going and finding a Dana 44 rear out of a jk. Thanks - Tim

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post #2 of 13 Old 09-18-2017, 06:54 PM
Ravenbar
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I saw a place that sells a bolt in Dana 60 rear for the WJ. Pricey but I doubt you'll ever break it.

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-616...-assembly.html

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post #3 of 13 Old 09-18-2017, 10:36 PM
Topher11
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Find a QD 44a. 150$ LDS that bolts right in.

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2006 LJ 4.0/2.5"/33s

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post #4 of 13 Old 09-19-2017, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Topher11 View Post
Find a QD 44a. 150$ LDS that bolts right in.
X2. I have even seen them cheaper, especially if you pull it yourself.

Chrome-moly upgrade shafts are available, but then I think the carrier becomes the weak point? Not to mention they are very expensive, especially when comparing to just swapping in a 44a...!

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post #5 of 13 Old 09-20-2017, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
Tim95zj
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Hey thanks everyone for the info. I'm probably going to find a 44 out of a v8 wj and just truss it because I think the 44s in a wj have an aluminum housing and the tubing can become the weak point.
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post #6 of 13 Old 09-20-2017, 11:00 AM
Topher11
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Yes hence the 44"a" designation. All WJs with 44s have the aluminum housing. Make sure its Quadradrive however to get the LSD diff. Quadratrac axles are open diff.

1999 WJ 4.0/6"/CLAs/33s/242SYE/ZJ Rad Swap
2006 LJ 4.0/2.5"/33s

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post #7 of 13 Old 09-26-2017, 04:03 PM
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Finding a JK44 rear axle is not difficult.

By the time you get done with that, gearing, truss, mounts, making the parking brake work, etc....unless you get some smoking deals....

East coast gamer supply as mentioned.. their prices are pretty fair considering it is BOLT IN.

On the other hand, I'm happy with swap.

Chase


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post #8 of 13 Old 09-26-2017, 08:09 PM
LeakinOil
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I think you should do a bit more research before you make a decision. The wjs came with either the 35 or the 44a aka 44hd aka 226RBA in the rear. The IRON 44 does NOT come on the wj. There is NO open diff version of the 44a (that I'm aware of). The open diff from a iron 44 will NOT fit in the 44a. You get a wj, if it's not Quadra Drive, it's got a 35. (With some rare exceptions).
I think the main issues either the 44a is warpage from heat which causes the axle to whine or worse from the internals being crooked or whatever. Also heat related is the tubes twisting in the housing. Or where the bearing races sit is known to wallow out a bit. I think a lot of problems heard with them stems from poor maintainence, and ppl and shops putting in the wrong fluid.
Another thing to consider with the 44a is the aftermarket support for it is small.
So depending on your end goal/budget and how you use the skinny pedal, you may be better off with making a iron 44 work or a 8.8, there's a bunch of info out there on it.
Really whether you have a 35 or 44a, if you wanna run 35s, you may wanna upgrade the 30 first.

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post #9 of 13 Old 09-26-2017, 09:45 PM
maxfederle89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeakinOil View Post
I think you should do a bit more research before you make a decision. The wjs came with either the 35 or the 44a aka 44hd aka 226RBA in the rear. The IRON 44 does NOT come on the wj. There is NO open diff version of the 44a (that I'm aware of). The open diff from a iron 44 will NOT fit in the 44a. You get a wj, if it's not Quadra Drive, it's got a 35. (With some rare exceptions).
I think the main issues either the 44a is warpage from heat which causes the axle to whine or worse from the internals being crooked or whatever. Also heat related is the tubes twisting in the housing. Or where the bearing races sit is known to wallow out a bit. I think a lot of problems heard with them stems from poor maintainence, and ppl and shops putting in the wrong fluid.
Another thing to consider with the 44a is the aftermarket support for it is small.
So depending on your end goal/budget and how you use the skinny pedal, you may be better off with making a iron 44 work or a 8.8, there's a bunch of info out there on it.
Really whether you have a 35 or 44a, if you wanna run 35s, you may wanna upgrade the 30 first.

If it ain't broke.....Try to break it.....And if it breaks.....Then fix it to where it don't break no more
I'm sorry if I missed something, but what's the easiest way to identify the 35 from the 44a? I have a V8 with the Quadra Trac II and I'm not clear how to identify my axle.

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post #10 of 13 Old 09-26-2017, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxfederle89
I'm sorry if I missed something, but what's the easiest way to identify the 35 from the 44a? I have a V8 with the Quadra Trac II and I'm not clear how to identify my axle. Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
I'm fairly certain all V8 WJs came with 44As in the rear. Quadra-trac II with a V8 has an open diff in the 44A. If you still aren't sure, try a magnet on the pumpkin, it won't stick to the aluminum housing.
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post #11 of 13 Old 09-26-2017, 10:20 PM
maxfederle89
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Originally Posted by tymaoaretae View Post
I'm fairly certain all V8 WJs came with 44As in the rear. Quadra-trac II with a V8 has an open diff in the 44A. If you still aren't sure, try a magnet on the pumpkin, it won't stick to the aluminum housing.
Wow I should have thought of that! Thank you

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post #12 of 13 Old 09-27-2017, 03:31 AM
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I believe the 35 will have a plug for the fill where as the 44 has an actual socket type plug.
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post #13 of 13 Old 09-27-2017, 10:14 AM
BDW
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Just Google Jeep axle identification and you'll see pictures. It's easy to tell a 35 vs 44 at a glance.

Also there are many open diff 44a, just about every V8 2wd has one. That's what you want if an aftermarket locker is planned. The QD factory LSD is a much cheaper option of course.
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