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Unread 07-12-2014, 05:32 PM   #16
Swiff
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2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Cambria Heights, N.Y.
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Look at what came today from Summit
picture-004.jpg
picture-005.jpg
Waiting on rods from Falcon

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2k JGC Laredo WJ -- 4.0L -- 42RE -- Select-Trac 242 -- 3.55 --
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Unread 07-12-2014, 08:12 PM   #17
Riley/MN
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Question

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Originally Posted by Swiff View Post
So sealed power makes 2 different pistons for apparently the same application. Sealed power H802CP or H825CP should be a exact replacement for the piston that I was looking for. But it depended on the size of the rings I have. Its just the regular cast hypereutectic piston. On the H802CP, ring 1 and 2 is 1.5mm and ring 3 (oil ring) is 4.0 mm. On the H825CP, ring 1 and 2 is 5/64 and ring 3 (oil ring) is 3/16. One is standard and one is metric. That's just how it is listed. I had to look for the part number on the inside of my piston and the H802CP is a cross reference of 53020507. The H825CP is a cross reference of 4798329. Mine happened to be 53020507. Hopes this helps someone out in the future.
If I am replacing all 6 and getting new rings, does it matter which set I get? It looks like the "standard" rings are considerably thicker than the "metric" rings.
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Unread 07-12-2014, 08:28 PM   #18
grussell
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Originally Posted by Riley/MN View Post
Watching the thread... XJ guy here but I just pulled the pistons out of a 99 WJ we bought for my wife. The cylinders were not bad (Did a quick hone and they look okay), but the piston skirts were pretty scuffed up. I am thinking of just putting in a new set, since I am here... The Jeep had a terrible knock when we bought it...

I pulled all the rod caps off and the bearings in them looked fine, but when I pulled the pistons out, the top half of the bearing in every rod was showing copper.... so I will put in a set of rod bearings.

The bottom half of all the main bearings looked fine, but I think that as long as I am here (& since I couldn't check the top half of the bearings), I will do the main bearings & rear main seal as well.

Who do you guys like for bearings & gaskets? I know rock auto has 'em, but are there brands to stay away from? Which brands offer the best value?

Thanks
You can push the top bearings around the crank journal to check them. I used Sealed Power in both my rebuilds. If by chance you mess one up you can get them at the local parts store.
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New 4.0 @ 149
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Unread 07-13-2014, 01:52 AM   #19
Swiff
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The upper rod bearings would wear more because that's where the force is coming from.
I thought most of these manufactures switched to the thinner metric piston rings to reduce friction.
Don't quote me on this because I could be dead wrong.
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Unread 07-15-2014, 05:41 PM   #20
Swiff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riley/MN View Post
If I am replacing all 6 and getting new rings, does it matter which set I get? It looks like the "standard" rings are considerably thicker than the "metric" rings.
If you are using your original pistons then you would have to measure the ring thickness of the original piston rings and put back in exactly what came out. If you are also changing the pistons then you would have to get the specs for the pistons that you buy and use the appropriate rings for them.
On a similar note the rods are "press fit" meaning you would have to press the old piston pin out which will sometimes damage the piston. I recommend taking it to a machine shop.
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Unread 07-16-2014, 01:27 AM   #21
Swiff
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Finally connecting rods and bearings came in.

jgc-wj-connecting-rods.jpg
Tomorrow I will go to Home Depot and hope they have a 90 degree drill so that I can deglaze this sucker.
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Unread 07-17-2014, 10:55 AM   #22
grussell
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Did you by chance verify your cylinders do not need boring. I would check with 187 on the block. Both of the 4.0's I rebuilt had to be bored. One had 149k and the other 164k. If you have the engine out I would replace the cam shaft bearings too.
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Unread 07-17-2014, 03:48 PM   #23
Swiff
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Had to go buy this today to hone the cylinders near the firewall.
ryobi-90deg-batteries.jpg
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Unread 07-17-2014, 03:55 PM   #24
ChrisHager
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New tools - ahh shucks!

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Unread 07-17-2014, 04:03 PM   #25
Jeeples
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Totally off topic, but in the photos you posted earlier there's a supercharger and a turbo and manifold in the background. What vehicle(s) are those goodies for?
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Unread 07-20-2014, 10:29 PM   #26
Swiff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grussell View Post
Did you by chance verify your cylinders do not need boring. I would check with 187 on the block. Both of the 4.0's I rebuilt had to be bored. One had 149k and the other 164k. If you have the engine out I would replace the cam shaft bearings too.
I have not been able to get back to my project yet. I will have to check piston to cylinder wall clearance. If it is close to specs, then I will not pull it out. The block is still in the truck. Now I have to find the specs for that too .
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Unread 07-20-2014, 11:44 PM   #27
Swiff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Totally off topic, but in the photos you posted earlier there's a supercharger and a turbo and manifold in the background. What vehicle(s) are those goodies for?
The supercharger was for a 2000 Grand Prix that I had. It was N/A and I put the GTP heads and that supercharger and the heads up display on it. That car is long gone now. I put it back to stock when I sold it to buy this Jeep 4 1/2 years ago.
The turbo was for the 95 SOHC manual neon that I lost interest in because of my job. I beat on that car every day and it never let me down. The paint chips would fly off at higher speeds. It had the Megasqiurt 2 in it which I was constantly tuning, forged Eagle rods and JE pistons and light weight flywheel & blue racing timing belt (forgot the name of the company that made it) OBX oil pan with baffle and I was setting it up for turbo. I talked my way out of a speeding ticket. I have a CDL .... car had to go.
This is how the truck looks.
jgc-wj-2.jpg
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Unread 07-22-2014, 11:01 PM   #28
Swiff
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Forgot to put pictures of old internals. Here they are ....




jgc-wj-old-internals-1.jpg


jgc-wj-old-internals-2.jpg


jgc-wj-old-internals-3.jpg


#6 piston skirt broken but it did no damage to the cylinder.
I checked the piston to cylinder clearance and it is like .043mm - .044mm.
Can't find any specs for piston to cylinder clearance.
I also compared the new pistons to the old ones and the new pistons have a shorter skirt and has more meat throughout the entire piston skirt area.
Hopefully I can get to hone / deglaze the cylinders and make some progress this weekend.
Still haven't put the pistons and rods together.
I don't like heating parts even though the combustion temperature gets way hotter than 450 degrees F.
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Unread 07-22-2014, 11:04 PM   #29
Swiff
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Gaping rings takes a lot of patients
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Unread 07-25-2014, 10:16 PM   #30
Swiff
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Finally got to the machine shop in time before they closed today to drop off the rods and pistons to get married.
I have used B&B automotive machine shop in Oceanside N.Y. before with my Mustangs so I know that they will do a great job.
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