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Unread 09-21-2012, 10:46 PM   #1
FastSUV
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Question WJ 4.0 Head Gasket Replacement Procedure

Hey guys, I have an '01 WJ stocker that has a bad head gasket. Do I need to really remove the who front-end to do the job? Or can I leave all that in tack since I am not replacing the cam or timing chain? I am referring to this writeup:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...ement-1264814/

This is my stock beater 2wd WJ so the least amount of money spent to fix it is what i am looking for...I have been told to at least replace the head bolts too...can anyone add anything that is a "MUST" when doing this job on the 4.0?

Many thanks!

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Unread 09-22-2012, 11:09 AM   #2
FastSUV
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nobody?
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Unread 09-22-2012, 11:12 AM   #3
ironman70
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No help here but I will be waiting for answer as well. I'll be doing the same in the next week.
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Unread 09-22-2012, 03:15 PM   #4
qualmanj
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No you don't have to pull anything off of the front end. Just pull the manifolds off and then pull the valve cover off. Next remove the rockers and push rods and keep them all in order then removed the head bolts, and head. Nothing to it really. I would definately take the head to a machine shop and have it decked and it wouldn't hurt to get it checked for cracks. Last thing you want to do is put it all back together and find out you had a cracked head and do it all over again. And yes replace the head bolts. They are a torque to yield bolt and will not stretch and retain the proper torque when used a second time.
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Unread 09-22-2012, 03:45 PM   #5
Cirruslydakota
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What he said. Id also use new head bolts since they're so cheap.

Sent from inside my 4.0.
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Unread 09-22-2012, 07:34 PM   #6
FastSUV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qualmanj View Post
No you don't have to pull anything off of the front end. Just pull the manifolds off and then pull the valve cover off. Next remove the rockers and push rods and keep them all in order then removed the head bolts, and head. Nothing to it really. I would definately take the head to a machine shop and have it decked and it wouldn't hurt to get it checked for cracks. Last thing you want to do is put it all back together and find out you had a cracked head and do it all over again. And yes replace the head bolts. They are a torque to yield bolt and will not stretch and retain the proper torque when used a second time.
Okay got it fellas..thanks a million! I did buy new Fel-Pro head bolts and Head set that includes all the gaskets needed in one box. I assume I can find the torque specs and order online?

Also, I did plan on taking the head to a machine shop because I suspect I might have a crack but not sure. I have never taken rockers off before, is there a procedure to torque them back on? I know the hydraulic lifters offer more forgiveness but I need ANY advice you all can give because I have some technical ability but this is new for me. Thanks! Also, do the pushrods have to go back in the same way too, as in the part that was tot he rocker goes back to the rocker or can they be flipped over as long as they go back to the same rocker/lifter location...thanks!
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Unread 09-22-2012, 07:51 PM   #7
qualmanj
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Might find torque spec and order online if not PM me and I'll help you get it squared away. The rockers on these are a set torque, no messing with push rod preload or anything. I'm not sure if flipping the push rodswill make a difference or not, but I would just make sure to install them the same way.
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Unread 09-22-2012, 11:03 PM   #8
FastSUV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qualmanj View Post
Might find torque spec and order online if not PM me and I'll help you get it squared away. The rockers on these are a set torque, no messing with push rod preload or anything. I'm not sure if flipping the push rodswill make a difference or not, but I would just make sure to install them the same way.
hey thanks for the reply...what does "set torque" mean...that they can't be accidentally torqued too much by design?
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Unread 09-23-2012, 08:06 AM   #9
qualmanj
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I meant that you set the rocker bolt like 39 in-lb and thats it. I don't think thats the actual spec but mean it's as simple as that. I've worked on something before but don't remember what, that you tightened the rocker bolt until you couldn't spin the push rod anymore then backed off like a quarter turn. Or it was something stupid like that.

Just looked it up, rocker arm torque is 39 ft-lbs
And the head bolts sequence from the front of the engine to the back:
12 8 4 1 5 9 13

11 7 3 2 6 10 14

Pay attention to bolt location during removal because some of the bolts are different lengths and have different heads on them
Torque sequence:
all bolts in sequence to 22 ft-lbs
all bolts in sequence to 45 ft-lbs
verify all bolts at 45 ft-lbs
bolts 1 through 10 to 110 ft-lbs
bolt 11 to 100 ft-lb
bolts 12 through 14 to 110 ft-lbs
recheck all bolts for proper torque
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Unread 09-23-2012, 12:47 PM   #10
MEinSoCal
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and while the head is out, good time to install a header if you desire. lifting that cast iron head which weighed like 75lbs out of a lifted jeep was not fun. with the help of the FSM, this was a very straight forward job, even for my first time.
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Unread 09-23-2012, 04:44 PM   #11
FastSUV
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You guys are the best...I have a FSM, but have not checked it yet. I would LOVE to do some performance mods to this WJ while I am at it, but I simply can't. As much as I wish this was a 4x4 V8, this is a 2wd daily driver and the money goes to my 5.9 ZJ...When I get a new vehicle, the Dubya would likely be sold 1st; otherwise I would spare no expense. At least i got Fel-pro gaskets and head bolts...I suppose I could have found another brand cheaper.

ALSO - The FSM I have says 21ft/lbs for the rocker arm cap screws...where did you see 39ft/lbs at?
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Unread 09-24-2012, 06:00 PM   #12
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Another question. I saw a writeup where a guy said to "glue" the gasket to the head before setting it down on the block because the head is too heavy for one person to set down perfect if the gasket is just laid on the block...I have used gasket shelak or gasket adhesive before, but is there a "SPECIAL" headgasket adhesive I need to use?

thx
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Unread 09-24-2012, 08:47 PM   #13
Cirruslydakota
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No! Do not use any type of adheasive on the block deck! The head gasket should be installed dry. There are locating dowels to keep the basked in allignment. Grab a buddy to help you or if you have access to a crane or engine hoist use that.

Sent from inside my 4.0.
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Unread 09-25-2012, 12:01 PM   #14
FastSUV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cirruslydakota View Post
No! Do not use any type of adheasive on the block deck! The head gasket should be installed dry. There are locating dowels to keep the basked in allignment. Grab a buddy to help you or if you have access to a crane or engine hoist use that.

Sent from inside my 4.0.
Okay, if there are dowels then I should be fine...the writeup I saw where the guy damaged his head gasket by setting the head down on it was on an XJ...maybe they WJ has the dowels and the XJ doesnt?
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Unread 09-25-2012, 01:07 PM   #15
roadcrew
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i just did my head on my 4.0.
really easy job. but have a buddy help with the head it is a heavy beast.
I was reading that getting the manifolds back on could be problematic, and was a little leery about it.
I found it to be real easy.After torquing the head down, put the exaust manifold up to head and use the two nuts on the outer most studs to hold it in place. i ran em up snug.
Then put your lower bolts in about a thread or two, and pull the washer against the bolt head. take your intake manifold and set it down on the bolts you just put in. the you can install the upper bolts and snug it all up.
super easy and no need to try to find bolt holes with your arm twisted around, and upside down, blind.
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