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Unread 05-23-2013, 11:45 AM   #16
Darnice
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Go under hood, remove the ASD relay, see if the amp draw drops to a very low level. But first you must see what the draw is as michiganmaveric requested

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Unread 05-23-2013, 12:10 PM   #17
curt93t/t
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Nothing changes with the fuse disconnected. When I plug the instrument cluster fuse and jumper the cable and post with the meter there's a real fast clicking sound for a little over a second or two.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 12:52 PM   #18
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curt93t/t!!

PLEASE do EXACTLY what michiganmaveric requested and report which fuse caused the meter to read minimal draw.

check this out:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...battery-drains
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Unread 05-23-2013, 12:56 PM   #19
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also, a great point already made is that a battery has six 2.1 volt cells. If one cell "goes bad" is will drain the other 5 cells, trying to "equalize" with them. This will cause a dead battery after some time.

Maybe if you cant perform the proper current test, remove the battery completely from the car, charge it up over a day, and then let it sit for a few days and test it then.

a battery can still measure 12.6 volts and not have enough current stored to turn on a light, or start a car for that matter.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 12:59 PM   #20
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one final thought from me... You mentioned 5 batteries have acted the same. Have you had the ALTERNATOR tested? At your battery posts, volts across the + and - should be 14.6 volts. If its less than 13, your alt is not charging the battery and it will go dead in a matter of time while driving around.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 01:00 PM   #21
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I did TWO posts ago! I removed all fuses and installed them one by one. With fuse 7 and 8 installed the reading at the battery is at least 20-30!!! Everything else is .03. Once I remove fuse 7 & 8 the reading at the battery goes down to .03. Sometimes the cluster fuse has a reading of around 30, but eventually drops to .03. So those two fuses have to be causing the draw.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 01:18 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJChris View Post
also, a great point already made is that a battery has six 2.1 volt cells. If one cell "goes bad" is will drain the other 5 cells, trying to "equalize" with them. This will cause a dead battery after some time.

Maybe if you cant perform the proper current test, remove the battery completely from the car, charge it up over a day, and then let it sit for a few days and test it then.

a battery can still measure 12.6 volts and not have enough current stored to turn on a light, or start a car for that matter.
This is true, but not the case here. If a cell or cells were shorted, you would not be able to read the current draw. The current draw would be between the cells. The OP is getting a draw outside of the battery. A few quick things to check would be find out what fuses 7 & 8 feed, check to see if the horn works, sometimes people will disconnect the horn when it gets stuck on. Well this will silence the horn but the relay still stays pulled in. And lastly with the key off, see if the field coil of alternator is energized by placing a piece of metal (ferrous) at the end bearing. If its energized, the metal will be drawn to it. Good Luck.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 01:52 PM   #23
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According to my 2004 shop manual fuse 7 & 8 supply power to the junction block under the dash on the drivers side. Get some help here. Put all the fuses in under the hood, then while your help watches the meter start pulling the fuses from the junction block until the reading drops. When it drops that is the problem circuit.

EDIT: Did the reading go up with just one of the fuses, 7 or 8, installed and not both?
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Unread 05-23-2013, 02:02 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curt93t/t View Post
Fuse 7 is for interior lights, is there anything else in that block? .
There are a lot of other things powered off fuse 7 from the junction block. See above post and when you find which fuse in the junction block is causing the problem let me know and I will look it up in my service manual.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 02:10 PM   #25
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Just curious, what year WJ are we dealing with here and what model. How is it equipped, sunroof, fog lights, ETC.

EDIT: Where are you located?
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Unread 05-23-2013, 02:32 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomahawk View Post
Pull fuse one by one and messure AMP with multimeter.
I check resistance.
Remove cable from battery and check voltage. Leave it disconnected and check voltage in the morning.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 02:50 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by car5car
I check resistance.
Remove cable from battery and check voltage. Leave it disconnected and check voltage in the morning.
^^^What the H will this help or tell you?
???Resistance? Wtf,

OP will have to check with a multimeter set at AMP wired inline with every curcuit/fuse and report back what hus readings Are, without That or with just nymbers like 20, 20 what???
A mA or what??? If OP dont do as ppl recomend its imposible to help him out.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 03:00 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganmaveric View Post

EDIT: Did the reading go up with just one of the fuses, 7 or 8, installed?
Yes, with both installed reading is at its highest. Tried this again by myself as I don't know where my father-in-law got the original numbers he read off to me. With all the fuses in I'm reading 6.08 (pic 0523131524). If I take #8 out it goes to .46. If I take 7&8 out it goes to .28 (0523131525). These values were a little bit higher as the battery was getting drained as I pulled the AC controls out to gauge the readings. It went down to .13 when I disconnected it. I noticed the motor running after the ignition was off for a bit. Weird thing is that at that point with the leads hooked up the fuse box was making a noise and I could feel it vibrate.

Going to let the battery charge up a bit and check out a couple more things. To WJChris, thanks for the inputs, but when it's cranked it goes to 14 on the gauge and it runs for hours, so it isn't the alternator. It's only when it sits for a day that the battery dies. Also, a little history, the interior lights would come on intermittently so I have the switch on the column turned off. As stated before, with the switch turned off and no bulbs coming on I shouldn't be drawing any juice right? I have a stealth and have the bulb removed from the hatch area and can leave that thing open for days and it cranks no problems.
0523131524.jpg   0523131525.jpg  
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Unread 05-23-2013, 03:06 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomahawk View Post
OP will have to check with a multimeter set at AMP wired inline with every curcuit/fuse and report back what hus readings Are, without That or with just nymbers like 20, 20 what???
A mA or what??? If OP dont do as ppl recomend its imposible to help him out.
The only position that a mA is to test 9V batteries. I have it on the 10A setting. I may have to get a better meter by what you are saying.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 03:18 PM   #30
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It looks like the major drop is with #8 taken out. Fuse #8 goes to the ignition sw. for the the accessories and starter functions. It supplies power to fuse #28 and #29 in the junction block, and CB #1. Pull them one at a time and see what happens. Possibly fuse s #22, 12, 21 and 32 also. Have to go for now will get back after dinner.
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