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Unread 05-21-2013, 09:42 AM   #1
curt93t/t
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wiring guru's, need your help

Been fighting an electrical issue for the longest. I am tired of wondering if the car will start or not. If the car sits for more than a day the battery goes dead. I just got a test light and almost half of the fuses that I touch cause the light to come on. I'm thinking the only fuse that should be "hot" is for the radio. Also, does anyone have a diagram of what fuses go to what.

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Unread 05-21-2013, 10:10 AM   #2
spud2388
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look on wjjeeps.com for a fuse diagram.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 10:48 AM   #3
WJ4x4LIFE
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http://wjjeeps.com/fuses.htm

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Unread 05-21-2013, 04:24 PM   #4
curt93t/t
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Got it thanks, guess the million dollar question is should I have so many fuses be running hot with the ignition off? Here they are:

4-Flasher/Haz
5-AMP
6-Parking lights
7-Int lights
8-Overhead console
9-PWR outlets
17-Inst cluster
18-Trailer
19-Anti-lock
23-Brake switch
24-Fogs
25-ACC (sunroof)
27-Rear fog (shouldn't have anything there but do as it's not an export)
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Unread 05-21-2013, 04:43 PM   #5
Thomahawk
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No, You should expect to se a 30-60mA total draw, thats normal,
alarm, clock, radio, etc,,,,
Most of this is controled by the BCM, check on fuse for BCM (body Control modul), and maybe more, ex interior light,,,,
Now send me a million dollar thx

Edit: what amps Running on which fuses/circuits???
Pull fuse one by one and messure AMP with multimeter.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 04:51 PM   #6
michiganmaveric
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A lot of your fuses are going to be hot even with the ign. off. Think about it, you can turn your lights on, activate the hazards, ETC. with the ign. off. Just because the fuse is hot does not mean that that is the problem circuit. Get an inline amp meter connected to the battery ground and see how much draw you have. If it is a lot, start pulling fuses until you get it to drop and you will have found the problem circuit.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 04:56 PM   #7
michiganmaveric
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Another thought, have you had your battery tested? A bad cell in the battery will act like what you are describing.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 05:35 PM   #8
curt93t/t
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I probably shouldn't say with the ignition off. When I say with ignition off I mean absolutely no pwr is going to them. The lights run separately than the ignition, that's why you can turn them on by themselves. Maybe my logic is off, but I've always been told only items required to have pwr with the car not running (radio and alarm, ECM) draw pwr constantly due to having to store something. Lights only draw pwr when you turn them on. It's not the battery because I have gone through at least 5. If you don't drive the car every day the battery is dead after that day. I will probably go ahead and plug a meter into the fuse sockets. Which side is usually the negative?
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Unread 05-21-2013, 05:50 PM   #9
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You are checking the circuits with a test light. The test light only show that voltage is available, not that there is any current flow (draw), this is why I suggested that you get an amp meter hooked up to the ground of the battery.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 05:53 PM   #10
Thomahawk
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None of them Are negative,,,

Messure at AMP with multimeter between both fuse sockets, amps are always messured inline with the circuits,
Voltage between pos and neg,,,,,
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R.I.P. 2000 Grand Cherokee Limited, 4.7 V8, Quadradrive, Shale Green Metallic, Agate/Carbon interior, Well modded and highly missed :(

Buildthread [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/jeep-norway-2th-buildt-overland-upgrade-1813490/[/url]

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Unread 05-21-2013, 05:58 PM   #11
curt93t/t
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I had the stealership take a look at it for $85 and was told it was "a" wiring harness and it would cost me $1,000!!! I would imagine they would have tested the battery grnd, but then again, if they did he should have troubleshot further. The mechanic thought it was possibly the resistor for the blower because it was a different design. Told him that's the new style as the old style melts the connector over time. That and my battery problem started way longer. Let's just say I don't trust this particular shop.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 08:13 PM   #12
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I am about to give up on this. I am not talking about TESTING the battery ground!!!!!!!! If you put an amp meter inline in the battery ground circuit it will show you if you are drawing too much amperage. If you are then you can start pulling fuses until the amperage draw goes down and that will tell you which circuit is shorted. From there you can find out which wire harness is bad. The dealer is correct that wire harnesses are expensive. Did the dealer tell you which harness was bad? Good luck.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 07:18 AM   #13
curt93t/t
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I apologize if I am frustrating you. When I said tested I was meaning checking out the draw. The first battery didn't have enough charge and I had to get a different one for the mechanic. With that said, one would think that they checked for draw. He didn't say which harness, I was out of state and talked to him over the phone.

He mentioned the blower fan staying on, which it didn't do that prior, and even if it did stay on I had this problem longer. Then from there he brought up the resistor and I told him that was Jeep's fix to the old one. After that he talked about $1,000 to replace the harness. I came back the other day and went to talk to him, but he's on vacation. I'm going to see if I have draw and if I do start pulling fuses.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 09:20 AM   #14
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I agree, this is the easiest way to do it. To reitterate, remove the battery ground cable from the battery post. Clip your VOM in series, and go to the DC amp scale. Start with the VOM selector in the highest range (if it is selectable). Switch down the range till you see meter pointer deflection (if its an analog meter) or get a digital readout on the display. If the meter is auto ranging, you don't need to switch anything.

If you see current draw up in the 2,3, 10A range, you have a problem. As michiganmaveric said, start popping fuses one at a time, untill the current flow disappears. It is trial and error, and you need to reference the fuse block diagram, to dig in deeper to the problem, once you 'ballpark' the circuit of concern.

' E-A-S-Y '

Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganmaveric View Post
A lot of your fuses are going to be hot even with the ign. off. Think about it, you can turn your lights on, activate the hazards, ETC. with the ign. off. Just because the fuse is hot does not mean that that is the problem circuit. Get an inline amp meter connected to the battery ground and see how much draw you have. If it is a lot, start pulling fuses until you get it to drop and you will have found the problem circuit.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 10:36 AM   #15
curt93t/t
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Well, when I plug the fuse for slot 7,8 and sometimes 17 the meter jumps up. It would go to around 20 on the digital read out. I imagine all of these are lumped together onto the same harness. Fuse 7 is for interior lights, is there anything else in that block? I have the interior lights off, so unless a bulb is on it shouldn't draw pwr (or maybe grounding out??). I thought it might be because the drivers door was open. I tried to unplug the connector at the door and couldn't get it off. Is there a trick after you pull out the red tab? Normally all you have to do is pull the plug off, but not this one! I just went ahead and shut the door and still had a draw.
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