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post #31 of 49 Old 05-23-2013, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
curt93t/t
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganmaveric View Post
It looks like the major drop is with #8 taken out. Fuse #8 goes to the ignition sw. for the the accessories and starter functions. It supplies power to fuse #28 and #29 in the junction block, and CB #1. Pull them one at a time and see what happens. Possibly fuse s #22, 12, 21 and 32 also. Have to go for now will get back after dinner.
So install fuse #8 and pull 12, 21, 22, 28, 29 and 32 from the main fuse block one at a time and see if anything changes. When you say CB #1 you mean the one with the arrow in the pic? Also, the internals of the ignition are bad as I can pull the key out in any position. what affect would this have on my issue? I don't know how long it's been like this as it's my wife's car.

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post #32 of 49 Old 05-23-2013, 02:56 PM
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With the internals of the Ignition Sw being bad I would start by changing that first, as fuse #8 in the PDC supplies power to the ign. sw.

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post #33 of 49 Old 05-23-2013, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curt93t/t

So install fuse #8 and pull 12, 21, 22, 28, 29 and 32 from the main fuse block one at a time and see if anything changes. When you say CB #1 you mean the one with the arrow in the pic? Also, the internals of the ignition are bad as I can pull the key out in any position. what affect would this have on my issue? I don't know how long it's been like this as it's my wife's car.
Might be a short in your ignition switch, That makes the draw, just saying,,,

Disconect the ignition switch from harness, then recheck draw, if Good, thats your pulprit.

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post #34 of 49 Old 05-23-2013, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, I'm stumped. I disconnected the connector's for the ignition and it was still reading high. Tried 12, 21, 28, 29, 32 and CB#1. All showed less than 2A. Hooked the ignition connectors to see if it would go back up and it didn't, it was around 2A. So either the thing is intermittent or this thing is cursed.
Funny thing is that with the leads hooked up there's a constant clicking sound from the fuse box. That is unless I unhook #8 fuse or #5 (radio AMP) and it stops, well with #5 (and #8 out) in it will click 3 or 4 times. Like I mentioned earlier, I have the dimmer switch turned off (and even disconnected the connector this time) and all the lights come on. I haven't seen the dome lights work in forever, but they are coming on now too.
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post #35 of 49 Old 05-23-2013, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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If I disconnect the dimmer/turn signal switch the door and hatch lights come on about 10 seconds after I disconnect it. If I hook it back up with the dimmer turned off the lights turn off. The only way to get the dome light to come on is jumper the ground post and cable.
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post #36 of 49 Old 05-23-2013, 06:23 PM
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2A Are anyway to much, you will be looking for a 0.03-0.04A to be good,,,,,
About That ticking, above the fuses there Are several relays, start pulling one by one until you find the one making the sound,
Take it out,
Recheck draw,

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post #37 of 49 Old 05-23-2013, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curt93t/t View Post
Okay, I'm stumped. I disconnected the connector's for the ignition and it was still reading high. Tried 12, 21, 28, 29, 32 and CB#1. All showed less than 2A..
Did you try the fuses one at a time or all at once, and what do you mean by "all showed less then 2A"

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post #38 of 49 Old 05-23-2013, 06:51 PM
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Fuse #8 in the junction block is for all the interior lights and the Vic. Pull it then see what happens. Again, what year is this WJ, because what I am telling you is from an '04 manual. Should be the same but could be different for earlier years.

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post #39 of 49 Old 05-23-2013, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by michiganmaveric View Post
Did you try the fuses one at a time or all at once, and what do you mean by "all showed less then 2A"
I did one at a time and where it was reading 6.08 earlier today it is now around 2 amps draw. A lot lower, but from what Thomahawk is saying it's still too high. It's a 2000 WJ.

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Originally Posted by Thomahawk View Post
2A Are anyway to much, you will be looking for a 0.03-0.04A to be good,,,,,About That ticking, above the fuses there Are several relays, start pulling one by one until you find the one making the sound,Take it out,Recheck draw,

When I did the check and it clicks I noticed the headlights slowly come on! Didn't notice it earlier I guess cuz it was still daylight out. I took the low beam relay out and it no longer clicks and the reading goes down to about
.03A. Unfortunately I switched it with the fog lamp relay since they are the same and it's doing the same thing (clicks and drawing over 2A).
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post #40 of 49 Old 05-23-2013, 07:07 PM
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According to my book the low beam relay feeds fuses 14 and 15 in the junction block. Pull them one at a time and see if the clicking stops. 14 is for the left low beam and 15 is for the right. If it clicks with both the fuses out you might have a bad body control module as that is what controls the relay.

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post #41 of 49 Old 05-23-2013, 07:17 PM
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^^^Back to post 4,,,,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomahawk
No, You should expect to se a 30-60mA total draw, thats normal,
alarm, clock, radio, etc,,,,
Most of this is controled by the BCM, check on fuse for BCM (body Control modul), and maybe more, ex interior light,,,,
Now send me a million dollar thx

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post #42 of 49 Old 05-23-2013, 07:25 PM
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You might have to recheck your battery voltage, and make sure its above 12.5V.
WJ's electronic tends to act up when voltage drops to low. With That drain voltage will drop over time.

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post #43 of 49 Old 05-23-2013, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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It was at 13 volts. Took it for a spin and the blower turned on with the knob in the off position. going to sleep on it tonight. I'll take a look at the BCM and fuse 14/15 tomorrow.
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post #44 of 49 Old 05-24-2013, 07:14 AM
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I wonder if this is a flood Jeep...
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post #45 of 49 Old 05-24-2013, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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Nope, bought it brand new in 2000, but thinking of driving it into a river! After charging the battery last night to make sure it had a good charge I checked it again. Now the headlights don't try and come one and it only clicks for a few seconds and stops. Now the CD disc changer mechanism moves a couple of times. When it stops the draw goes down to around .08 amp. Going to call a couple of junk yards and see how much the BCM is going for. I doubt they will allow me to bring it back if it doesn't fix the problem as I plan on swapping it out in their parking lot.

I'm pretty sure the BCM (if that's what is clicking) isn't supposed to click when I do this check. I see the BCM monitors the lift gate. The overhead constantly says the lift gate is open. I pulled everything out and there is a burnt smell, more prevalent with the right side lock switch.
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