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Unread 03-13-2011, 05:25 PM   #1
WiCkeDuDe
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WiCkeDuDe's DIY Dual Steering Stabilizer Write Up

For those of you looking to add a 2nd steering stabilizer in addition to the factory one this thread is for you. There are a few places that offer a kit to add it but they are way overpriced in my opinion. I'm into my kit only about $70, most of that being the shock. I thought I would share so others can do this if they want.

The 2nd SS attached to the trackbar and the steering drag link. NOTE - This writeup will NOT work for factory trackbars. A smaller clamp is need for factory trackbars, though it should work in theory using the same instructions.

To get started you need the clamps from the front toe draglink from a WJ. You are after the clamp that attaches to the original SS and then the one from the tie rod end. The part number for the SS clamp is 52088872AA. Kolak sells them for about $10. I do not have a part number for the tie rod end clamp. I don't believe Jeep sold them separately, but only with the adjuster sleeves. Im sure there are after market ones available that will work.

Below is a picture of what you are after. As you can see the clamps are different sizes. The bigger SS will clamp down to 1 1/4". The tie rod clamp goes down to 1 1/8". The factory track is thinner (1") than the after market trackbars, hence why these clamps wont work as shown below in the pic. I am running the JKS adjustable front trackbar in my WJ for this writeup which is 1 1/4".

dscn1286.jpg   dscn1287.jpg   dscn1318.jpg  
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Unread 03-13-2011, 05:26 PM   #2
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First off, take the tie rod end clamp and drill out the square bolt hole with a 31/64 drill bit. I will explain why later. I did mine in the pic on the vehicle but its easier in the vise.

Once done you need to spread the clamps out or unscrew your installed tie rods on your WJ. I wonder which you will pick? You need to spread them alot to go over the trackbar and draglink, so be careful not to break the steel. Once open enough slip the SS clamp over the trackbar. Then take the tie rod clamp and slip it over the steering draglink, up near the pitman arm. As you can see the clamp is the same size as the pitman arm tie rod. Now bend the clamps back down enough for the bolts to go through. I used a big pair of channel lock pliers to do this.

I used a Rancho SS - RS5409 ($52) for my 2nd SS shown in the pic. Its the same one used for the factory position. The tube end goes towards the driver side and has a bigger bushing hole (M12 bolt) than the boot side (M10 bolt). The Rancho shock comes with a M10 x 1.5 bolt that will work here being just over 4" long. For the tube side you need to get a M12 bolt just over 4" long. I used a M12 x 1.75 x 110 bolt.

Place the M10 bolt through the trackbar clamps and the M12 bolt through the steering draglink clamp. The reason for drilling the clamp so for the bigger M12 bolt to go through. You will now need some spacers to go on the bolt. You can use what you want, but I tried to get the shock about parallel with the trackbar. You can use washers too if you wish. I turned some 1" diameter steel spacers on the lathe that were 5/8" thick. One spacer needs to have a hole for a M10 bolt (25/64"), and the other a larger hole for the M12 (31/64"). Put the spacers on the bolt and position the clamps as shown in the pic below.
dscn1290.jpg   dscn1292.jpg   dscn1305.jpg   dscn1298.jpg   dscn1295.jpg  

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Unread 03-13-2011, 05:26 PM   #3
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Now you are ready to install the SS. I used some hex flange lock nuts, the same as what came with the Rancho SS. You dont want these clamps loosening up so use a locknut. Remember the tube end goes driver side. Snug up the bolts just enough to where you can still move the clamps.

On my WJ I locked the clamp all the way to the passenger side on the trackbar, next to the locknut. I then locked the other clamps as far up as possible on the steering draglink. Turn and position the SS so that it is parallel and does not bind when turning. You may need to space your SS different and position differently than me. I was initially concerned the SS would bottom out when turning right, hence why I pushed the clamps out to the max.

It turned out to not be a concern as I did not bottom out the SS. I am running 5" of lift on my WJ. Be sure to check that the SS does not bottom out! Below in the pictures you can see the full left turn and full right turn extension. Though the boot looks cramped, I still have just over 1" of travel in the SS when turning right. Be sure also to check that the SS does not bind when turning which can bend the SS and also affect your turning radius. Once your sure you are where you want to be then lock down the nuts and enjoy!
dscn1310.jpg   dscn1313.jpg   dscn1315.jpg   dscn1314.jpg  
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Unread 03-13-2011, 06:15 PM   #4
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great write up!thanks for sharing dude.
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Unread 03-16-2011, 11:39 PM   #5
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Going on a week now with no issues. This really helps with DW on shortarms with over 4" of lift I have found.
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Unread 03-17-2011, 09:43 AM   #6
00JGC00
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Was there a noticeable difference in driving/handling?
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Unread 03-17-2011, 10:07 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00JGC00 View Post
Was there a noticeable difference in driving/handling?
No not really, just didnt have to worry about DW when hitting a bump anymore. It didnt hurt anything that I have noticed.
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Unread 03-17-2011, 10:09 AM   #8
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The only problem with two of those bad boys is the wear and tear on the power steering. It takes more force to turn. Just something to think about. It could lead to premature wear on the gear box and pump.
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Unread 03-17-2011, 10:12 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SplitNail View Post
The only problem with two of those bad boys is the wear and tear on the power steering. It takes more force to turn. Just something to think about. It could lead to premature wear on the gear box and pump.
Not worried about it. They wear out by themselves fast enough anyway since they were a pile. The steering effort is not any greater.
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Unread 03-17-2011, 10:21 AM   #10
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Good write-up man. If I end up having DW probs (knock, knock) I'll probably do this. My stock stabilizer is leaking already so that probably should be replaced.

Not to derail, but what are your thoughts on running a single stabilizer and moving it from the tie rod to the track bar and just having that?

BTW, the underside of your Jeep is FAR too clean. Even mine is dirtier than that.
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Unread 03-17-2011, 10:24 AM   #11
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That might work fine. I think it was Kevin from KOR that said the WJ was worse than the ZJ because the SS was mounted down on the axle housing rather than the trackbar. I have not tried it with taking the bottom one out, dont see how it would hurt to try.
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Unread 03-26-2011, 09:59 PM   #12
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I see Teraflex coils!
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Unread 03-26-2011, 10:06 PM   #13
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Great minds think alike.. I've done the exact same thing, going on almost a year with no problems
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Unread 03-27-2011, 11:45 AM   #14
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You don't need two, especially with a HD replacement. Remove the bottom ss and you won't notice a difference. Nice write up for a cheaper DIY alternative to other overpriced "kits".
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Unread 04-05-2011, 03:23 PM   #15
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i just did this to a friends cherokee with 6 in of lift lets see if it get rid of the dw the only flaw in this setup is the mount is single shear
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