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Unread 09-24-2013, 02:23 AM   #1
Uniblurb
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What's the best method for stopping rust?

Just bought a white 2004 4.7 WJ Limited w/only 74K miles within the past 2 months and what a great ride! But the more time I spend working on it the more concerned I am about seeing the rust forming on the underside. This is on the bottom unibody panels and along the bottom rocker seams. The rust really shows on white and the large black triangular piece above the rear differential is really rusted. What's this part called since couldn't find it on the parts list?

I don't want this WJ rusting away like all my other Jeeps have in living in the rust/salt belt. I've been researching some ways to stop this rust w/o having to sand every rusted part there is. I have a bunch of full cans of undercoating but this may just let the rust still spread underneath it. Also have some galvanized primer which is supposed to stop rust but don't know how much prep it needs?

What about using the below POR-15 system? Seems awful pricey at $50/qt and you also have to use a Marine Clean, neutralize the rust with Metal-Ready, coat with POr-15, top coat with Chassis Coat Paint, and then guess could cover it with white spray top coat after that.

http://www.por15.com/POR-15-_p_8.html

Would appreciate some input on what other do to stop rust? Want to do something before the cold weather rolls in soon and the road salt causes even more damage/rust. Thanks!

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-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread 09-24-2013, 08:22 AM   #2
bradywgn71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
Just bought a white 2004 4.7 WJ Limited w/only 74K miles within the past 2 months and what a great ride! But the more time I spend working on it the more concerned I am about seeing the rust forming on the underside. This is on the bottom unibody panels and along the bottom rocker seams. The rust really shows on white and the large black triangular piece above the rear differential is really rusted. What's this part called since couldn't find it on the parts list?

Rear Upper Control Arm

I don't want this WJ rusting away like all my other Jeeps have in living in the rust/salt belt. I've been researching some ways to stop this rust w/o having to sand every rusted part there is. I have a bunch of full cans of undercoating but this may just let the rust still spread underneath it.

Undercoating will just trap the moisture in and promote more rust.

Also have some galvanized primer which is supposed to stop rust but don't know how much prep it needs?

What about using the below POR-15 system? Seems awful pricey at $50/qt and you also have to use a Marine Clean, neutralize the rust with Metal-Ready, coat with POr-15, top coat with Chassis Coat Paint, and then guess could cover it with white spray top coat after that.

http://www.por15.com/POR-15-_p_8.html

Por-15 is a great product. It creates a seal to prevent moisture from entering the surface of the metal. Just don't get it on your skin, it'll be there for a very long time. There are other products out there that help prevent the rusting process from advancing. I think Rustoleum just came out with a spray on product.

Would appreciate some input on what other do to stop rust? Want to do something before the cold weather rolls in soon and the road salt causes even more damage/rust. Thanks!
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Unread 09-24-2013, 09:24 AM   #3
COL
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Best method for stopping rust? Cutting it out and replacing with new metal.
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Unread 09-24-2013, 09:26 AM   #4
Merc1973
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Move to Arizona.
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Unread 09-24-2013, 09:39 AM   #5
rdkendrick
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I just bought some rock rails that the seller didn't show the rust in the pictures, on. There's some pretty good rust on the mounting parts. I, too, was wondering how to stop the rust, once I brushed and chipped away the rusted areas.

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Unread 09-24-2013, 10:03 AM   #6
yzjwk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
Just bought a white 2004 4.7 WJ Limited w/only 74K miles within the past 2 months and what a great ride! But the more time I spend working on it the more concerned I am about seeing the rust forming on the underside. This is on the bottom unibody panels and along the bottom rocker seams. The rust really shows on white and the large black triangular piece above the rear differential is really rusted. What's this part called since couldn't find it on the parts list?

I don't want this WJ rusting away like all my other Jeeps have in living in the rust/salt belt. I've been researching some ways to stop this rust w/o having to sand every rusted part there is. I have a bunch of full cans of undercoating but this may just let the rust still spread underneath it. Also have some galvanized primer which is supposed to stop rust but don't know how much prep it needs?

What about using the below POR-15 system? Seems awful pricey at $50/qt and you also have to use a Marine Clean, neutralize the rust with Metal-Ready, coat with POr-15, top coat with Chassis Coat Paint, and then guess could cover it with white spray top coat after that.

http://www.por15.com/POR-15-_p_8.html

Would appreciate some input on what other do to stop rust? Want to do something before the cold weather rolls in soon and the road salt causes even more damage/rust. Thanks!

You can try a product like rust converter before you undercoat.It's sold under numerous names , but here is one http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html .When it works , it works quite well .But from experience i can tell you there are some alloys that it won't work on . I don't think you can stop rust , but you can slow down the process . find somewhere with a lift and wash the crap out of the undercarriage , then let it dry and hit everything with a good primer before you undercoat . You can also try a product like counteract http://www.counteractrust.com/ some people around here swear by it and some think it's a gimmick .I'll let you do your own research.
good luck
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Unread 09-24-2013, 11:44 AM   #7
donald73d
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stopping rust

The only thing that will really work under the vehicle and in body cavities is CarWell or Fluid Film. Its on the web. Its not an undercoating. You can buy the product or go to place that sprays it on. CarWell is on both my vehicles.

At the pinch seam at the bottom of car doors, then Loctite Extend or a POR or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator is the right thing.
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Unread 09-24-2013, 01:16 PM   #8
rdkendrick
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This is what I have on my Jeep from http://www.valugard.net. It's a rust inhibitor that is like wax. They spray it inside everywhere under and inside your wheel wells and rocker panels. It sticks to the metal. They warrantied my car for 5 years, which is not much, but I am not as much in the rust belt as some. You can even buy their product at that website above. Take a look.

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Unread 09-24-2013, 02:32 PM   #9
bradywgn71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc1973 View Post
Move to Arizona.
I can sympathize with the OP because I'm originally from Ohio as well. I had a '91 XJ that looked like Swiss cheese from all of the rust. I waited until after I had moved to Arizona to buy my rust-free WJ.
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Unread 09-24-2013, 06:58 PM   #10
rdkendrick
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I am in SouthWest Ohio, but we don't get it as bad as up north.
Here's the pictures of the rust from the rock rails. On second thought, they don't look as bad as when I saw them the first time. When I pick them up, I can hear sand or pebbles sliding down the other side, like a rain stick. I can just brush and sand them, put some rust inhibitor or naval jelly, primer and paint. I am considering painting them A hammered aluminum color to contrast my silver Jeep. The spray paint is textured to give a hammered look. Sent from my iPad using my fingers
image-2266227158.jpg

image-3408125312.jpg

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Unread 09-24-2013, 10:33 PM   #11
outbackmatt
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When I picked up my WJ last year it was in the same exact condition as the op's. I wire wheeled the entire undercarriage and painted it with rustoleum rusty metal primer and paint. It looks a lot better and seems to be holding up well so far.
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Unread 09-28-2013, 06:40 AM   #12
Uniblurb
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Thanks for all the good input guys and lots of anti-rust methods/products to choose from! I remember when I used to use Extend on small rusted areas which worked well but when I tried the NAPA aerosol it did not.

While the POR-15 rust system seems like it may be best it sure seems awful pricey and labor intensive. I'm leaning towards the Eastwood systems and while not cheap it may do the job.

The below internal frame coating looks like it may be a real good investment since it seems like on a lot of my Jeeps the rust is coming from the inside out. It may also be good for spraying up in the rocker and door drain holes if it doesn't clog them up.

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...nozzle-qt.html

The rust on the underside of my 2004 isn't as bad as the photos rdkendrick in Cinci posted. I was under it last week using a med-course wire wheel on a drill for cleaning off the leaking muffler seam before I brazed it. I tried the wire wheel on one of the many spot welds rusting and sure seemed like it took a long time just to get part of the paint off while the rust was still there. Wonder if after cleaning I could just use a hand wire brush for slightly cleaning the rusted areas off and then spray or brush on rust converter?

If I'm not going to use the 4 cans of black undercoating I have I would rather keep the bottom stone white like it already is since I may not do the whole underside or may miss some spots. I bought a small pricey can of "Mopar PW1 Stone White Clear Coat" at the dealer about a month ago designed for touch up. Does anybody know of a good aftermarket top-coat paint which comes in this color in an aerosol can and not so pricey? Not sure it would contain a clear coat and would I also need to spray this on top of it?

Thanks bradywgn71 for pointing out the part I asked about is the rear upper control arm. I feel kind of stupid for not knowing that but I'm new to WJ's and have only had D35 axles before, rather than the 44, along with separate upper control arms rather than one piece. Also the parts list didn't have a very good diagram of it.

While hard to get to the upper control arm is probably one of the most rusted parts on the undersise. It's going to need scraped/wire brushed off before I even think about spraying a rust converter on it. The rear drive shaft is also super rusted with chunks of rust on it. I would guess I should also clean this off and spray rust converter on it? Can you also just spray rust converter on the axles w/o cleaning them off? Sounds like I'm going to be using so much rust converter I should buy it in liquid form, like a quart, then use a trig-sprayer for applying it.

Sure wish I could get my WJ up higher since I have a nice pressure washer for blasting everything off. It would be better if I could somehow do away with the wand part in certain areas. Would do this after applying a pre-clean or marine clean. It doesn't help I have long running boards on each side which makes the bottom even less accessible. I'd just take them off but my small wife likes them for getting in/out and this will eventually be her dd.

Here's some photos of the underside and just love living in the salt/rust belt! Poor design from the factory where they caulk shut the rocker drain areas in front of the rear tires. Since a bunch of dirt/small grit there I dug it out and sprayed with galvanized primer. Need to do it again where I removed the caulk.

Also another one of the pics show behind the front tire. You can see the rust stain which looks like it's coming out of the inside of the rockers. I best check to make sure these drains aren't clogged. Sorry for the blurry rear control arm pic but was shooting it blind and too close.

Thanks for any input! Sorry for the delay in posting but had to get my son off to S. Cali where he's moving to. He's 3/4 of the way there in hauling a big trailer w/his 96 4.0 XJ.
wj-rust-bottom-behind-front-wheel-well-640x480p.jpg

wj-rust-upper-control-arm-rusted-bad-640x480p.jpg

wj-rust-wheel-well-rocker-drain-caulked-shut.jpg

wj-rust-bottom-spot-welds-uniframe-640x480.jpg

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-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread 10-20-2013, 06:47 AM   #13
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Well I'm running out of time with cold weather rolling in but placed a $130 order through Eastwood and just received it. This included 2 aerosol cans of Chassis Kleen, 3 cans of Internal Frame coating w/24" nozzle (will be using 1 can on my ZJ), and 3 cans of Rust Encapsulator (2 white for white under-body, 1 black for upper control arm/driveshaft).

I told Eastwood rep Dave I was worried about using their rust converter product since read where it didn't hardly dry and stayed tacky on painted surfaces. He said I should skip this step since the rust converter is used where rust is going through both sides of the metal and their rust encapsulator will stop rust. I asked him if it was necessary to tape all the nuts/bolts off since this epoxy-fortified encapsulator will make them really difficult to remove? He said to spray them down and you can still remove them. Does this sound right and almost thought about at least covering the nuts w/non-seize so this product doesn't stick to the threads?

Took my WJ to the car wash yesterday and tried to spray up on the under-carriage but was doing it blindly. A little concerned about the Chassis Kleen since it says not to spray on paint but I'm almost going to have to. Says it doesn't need rinsed off but to use "PRE" prior to painting to remove the solvents which I didn't buy. Maybe I should use my own pressure washer after applying it?

Plan is to scrape/wire brush any loose rust off, maybe lightly sand any flat surfaces, use the Chassis clean, power-wash it off (?) or wipe it down, then after dry apply the rust encapsulator on most the bottom. Will also use the internal frame coating at this time and also thought about using it in the rockers?

I've never used these Eastwood products before and would appreciate any input from those who have. Thanks!
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-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread 10-20-2013, 07:21 AM   #14
MattJeep
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Here's the honest truth. Keep cleaning and painting as much as you can. During the winter, either park it when its snowing and the retards dump an inch of salt, or hit the powerwash weekly or every couple of days when its snowing. I've done that with my Express work van its whole life and the undercarriage is amazingly clean. Granted its a Chevy and seems to have more heavily galvanized steel than Jeep, but thats the only way to keep rust from going crazy. Clean the salt off religiously and if you can keep it dry. The salt mixed with the snow and water increase the electrolysis process and speeds up rust. Come spring, touch up everything underneath again.
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Unread 10-20-2013, 12:06 PM   #15
ryangtp89
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I'm picking up a '04 overland this week and the first thing im doing is fluidfilm. Maine sucks too when it comes to the crap they put on the roads during the winter months.
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