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Unread 03-15-2010, 05:39 AM   #16
torchd
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torchd pm me with your number and i will get ahold of you
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Unread 03-15-2010, 10:37 AM   #17
PhantomWJ
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KirbWJ...

Where in Cali are you? If your near or around the LA area PM me...we can get this done in a few hours...

If you are in the high deserts (victorville, etc...) even better...

-Phantom
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Unread 03-15-2010, 10:49 AM   #18
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I think I gave about $500 for the install of my KOR 2.5" BB, 4 new shocks (Rancho RS5000's) and a four wheel alignment at the 4 Wheel Parts in El Cajon.

You WILL need an alignment following the BB install. Also be sure and have the shop doing the alignment check all of your front end and steering parts for excessive wear as that is the primary cause of death wobble (loose/worn parts).

I was not able to install the BB and shocks myself since I live in my RV when working away from home and do not have my big floor jack and most parks have rules against performing any maintenance on-site. The others are correct though that the installation itself is not very complicated.

Whether you do it yourself or pay someone, ensure you know whether or not the BB re-uses the stock coil isolators and if so whether they go on before or after the lift puck.
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Unread 03-15-2010, 10:57 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Son-of-Beast View Post
I think I gave about $500 for the install of my KOR 2.5" BB, 4 new shocks (Rancho RS5000's) and a four wheel alignment at the 4 Wheel Parts in El Cajon.

You WILL need an alignment following the BB install. Also be sure and have the shop doing the alignment check all of your front end and steering parts for excessive wear as that is the primary cause of death wobble (loose/worn parts).

I was not able to install the BB and shocks myself since I live in my RV when working away from home and do not have my big floor jack and most parks have rules against performing any maintenance on-site. The others are correct though that the installation itself is not very complicated.

Whether you do it yourself or pay someone, ensure you know whether or not the BB re-uses the stock coil isolators and if so whether they go on before or after the lift puck.
You really shouldnt need an alignment after a BB unless it is bad to start with. The BB does nothing to the toe in angle which is the only thing an alignment shop can adjust on the WJ.
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Unread 03-15-2010, 11:12 AM   #20
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You really shouldnt need an alignment after a BB unless it is bad to start with. The BB does nothing to the toe in angle which is the only thing an alignment shop can adjust on the WJ.
The BB puts the entire suspension at different angles than it was before. My WJ tracked straight and true before the BB, had no DW. Had it aligned after the BB and shocks, and it still tracks straight and still no DW. As I recall, the shop had to make adjustments to camber and toe due to the change in angles - IIRC.

Personally, I would never invest in suspension parts or tires and not get an alignment, regardless of whether or not it was tracking straight before, even a BB at 2" is a significant change in geometry.

The OP can choose whether or not to do it. Given the WJ's proclivity for developing DW after adjustments to the front end I believe it is like insurance.
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Unread 03-15-2010, 11:18 AM   #21
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Just like everybody said, find a friend who has experience with installing lifts. Lucky for me, my buddy is a big jeep enthusiast who's done 2 lifts before on XJs and also has a friend and dad who are mechanics. Just schedule out a day where its gonna be nice outside and just go to town.
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Unread 03-15-2010, 11:22 AM   #22
torchd
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See I have read that you need an alignment after BB lift, then I read where you don't need an alignment..

So which is it??

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/a...gnment-991778/
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Unread 03-15-2010, 11:44 AM   #23
Meaninglessphot
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Ive heard both too, although I heard that an alignment for a BB isnt needed, but is good to have just in case.
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Unread 03-15-2010, 11:55 AM   #24
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My put is this, toe-in is set relative to the axle long axis (wheel to wheel) but the knuckles are displaced when you install even a BB, it works by pushing the axle further away from the spring perches. This rotates the axle forward (relative to the direction of travel of the Jeep). Yes it doesn't seem to be a whole lot, but it does rotate the axle forward. Seems to me that will change whatever toe-in was set before the BB. It is caused by the same effect that sees the axle move rearward with the installation of the BB, or when flexing. The axle is suspended by the control arms and it moves in an arc whenever it displaced up or down, by flexion or by installing a BB, or extended springs. Four arms helps to limit that compared to a simpler beam-style (think old Ford).

The best tribal knowledge I could pull together from this and other sources suggested that 2-3 inches is the practical limit for lifting a WJ without also going for longer control arms.

I believe in taking good care of my rig, and an alignment is simple insurance.

As with anything you read on the internet, take it with a grain of salt and build your own understanding.
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Unread 03-15-2010, 12:06 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Son-of-Beast View Post
The BB puts the entire suspension at different angles than it was before. My WJ tracked straight and true before the BB, had no DW. Had it aligned after the BB and shocks, and it still tracks straight and still no DW. As I recall, the shop had to make adjustments to camber and toe due to the change in angles - IIRC.

Personally, I would never invest in suspension parts or tires and not get an alignment, regardless of whether or not it was tracking straight before, even a BB at 2" is a significant change in geometry.

The OP can choose whether or not to do it. Given the WJ's proclivity for developing DW after adjustments to the front end I believe it is like insurance.
Camber and caster are NOT adjustable on WJ's unless you have adjustable control arms and offset or adjustable ball joints. The only thing they could have changed is toe in. But again, unless it was bad before hand, it wont need it after the BB because you are not touching the tie rod at all in the process.

And DW is caused by worn components such as tie rod ends or bushings and are only amplified by the changes made to the suspension angles. Suspension angles alone WILL NOT cause death wobble.
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Unread 03-15-2010, 12:15 PM   #26
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See I have read that you need an alignment after BB lift, then I read where you don't need an alignment..

So which is it??

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/a...gnment-991778/
Im not sure on a ZJ. Their suspension set up is slightly different and I am not sure if you can adjust caster or camber. On WJ's, no it is not needed for a BB because the only component that can be adjusted is toe in.

It also depends on how high you lift it and what new parts are going in. If you are adding an adjustable track bar, an alignment is needed to recenter the axle. If you are adding adjustable control arms, an alignment is needed to dial in the caster angle. But a simple BB with just pucks and shocks, you arnt adding adjustable control arms or track bar and you arent touching the tie rod so your toe in wont change, so, you cant align anything else.
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