Another oil question? Please search the forum, you will find many opinions and theories. I have been on this Forum for less than a month and have seen about 5-8 threads already. It's all in here, look around.
It is easier to ask than to search. That doesn't necessarily make it the best choice. When it is something that has been beaten to death, such as "which oil should I use?", perhaps reading one or two of the other countless threads first would prove worthwhile.
Indeed a forum is to ask questions, but it is also to share information. My opinion is that some of the best answers to certain questions have already been provided, and you will find these answers with a search. Starting a new topic will not always result in the best answer because the person who previously provided that answer is surely not going to respond in every "which oil should I use?" thread.
In other words, the clutter may hinder one's ability to find good answers.
I have a 2002 WJ with 105,000 that ticks when cold too. It's not the motor though; I found my ticking on a circular gray electrical thing on the drivers side behind the air filter box. I can't find this part in a Haynes book and I have no idea what it is called...however when it's cold it ticks. I thought my motor was going but then I stuck my ear to that little bugger and found the source.
If your tick is the same as mine I wouldn't worry much about it. I run Pennzoil synthetic high mileage oil in mine.
I have a 2002 WJ with 105,000 that ticks when cold too. It's not the motor though; I found my ticking on a circular gray electrical thing on the drivers side behind the air filter box. I can't find this part in a Haynes book and I have no idea what it is called...however when it's cold it ticks. I thought my motor was going but then I stuck my ear to that little bugger and found the source.
If your tick is the same as mine I wouldn't worry much about it. I run Pennzoil synthetic high mileage oil in mine.
If I know what you're thinking of, that's your EVAP Purge Solenoid - the clicking is the solenoid opening up. Ticking should be intermittent... There was a TSB for this thing clicking too loud on some WJ's - to the point where it can be heard in the cabin with the windows up. Jeep made a new, better insulated mount for the solenoid to deaden the sound. More info at wjjeeps.com, look under their TSB section.
I wish that was the cause of my ticking issue, but alas, it is not. My '04 I6 ticks like a clock on the driver's side of the engine; I've narrowed it down to a sticky lifter, cracked manifold, or piston slap. All of these are issues that I cannot address now anyway, so I'll just drive my WJ until it blows up.
But yeah, your EVAP Purge Solenoid clicking is normal, no worries.:thumbsup:
Oh she's not dead yet. Only 71,500 miles. The biggest issue is the lack of a garage or suitable workspace (I live in an apartment complex) to dismantle anything major. I will draw the line at doing the differentials (in 500 miles), but taking off the manifolds, valve cover, or oil pan are all things I would like to do with a roof over my head. She drives fine, and has been ticking intermittently for at least 9,000 miles.
Not to hijack the thread, but ticking varies with throttle, sounds like it comes from the manifolds on the driver's side of the block, and only around 600-1600rpm. I did the "ghetto stethoscope" with a long screwdriver on the valve cover, and it almost definitely isn't from there. I've scoured the forum for causes of "4.0L ticking" (try it sometime, LOTS of clutter), and came up with the three aforementioned candidates. Which brings me full circle - I cannot really tear into my engine right now given my current circumstances. Anyway, enough about me... for more discussion, take it to my discussion thread in my signature. :thumbsup:
I bought a mechanic's stethoscope to track down odd noises (after my ZJ started howling...it was just a defective distributor rotor). It's pretty handy at tracking that stuff down. You would be amazed at all the interesting sounds you can't hear going on in your engine. Anyway it was only $10 and it was money well-spent.
As for oil...thicker oil tends to quiet down engines with loose tolerances at the expense of cold-flow properties and possible pumping losses/lost efficiency. Not such an issue with a 10W-40 but if you ever run a 20W-50 it is noticeable. As I mention in all of these oil threads, I quieted down my 4.0 significantly with an engine flush and a switchover to Mobil1 High Mileage in 10W-30. I run Wix/Napa Gold filters and run it to 6,000 miles before changing. It is at 200k now and runs "pretty good". The last UOA I had done indicated that the aluminum wear was a little high and there is possible piston slap. There's nothing you can really do about that...just run it till it blows.
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