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What did you do to your WJ today?

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5M views 53K replies 3K participants last post by  X-Hibition 
#1 ·
Tell us what you did!

Show pics!

I washed mine and Im still waiting for my lift to show up!

I put my new WHEELS and tires on with the jack :)

And replaced driver side axle shaft and changed all diff fluids.
 
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#48,661 ·
Picked up the new battery from Costco yesterday afternoon. Cable ends were really clean with no corrosion, just a bit of oxidation. Sprayed 'em down with terminal cleaner, shined 'em up with the battery brush and got the battery installed. Fired right up without any issues.

Decided to double check the alternator and ensure it was functioning properly still. Didn't see anything out of the normal, putting out 13.79V while idling with no load and with all electrical accessories turned on at idle it was between 13.66V and 13.71V, kicking up RPM up a bit saw output jump toe 13.8-13.9V. Shouldn't be any issues with the alternator.

I did note that the cable ends are getting a little tired, while I could get them snug down around the battery terminals its pretty obvious that they're stretched out a bit from use over the years.

I think it will finally be time to upgrade to military style cable ends, might as well do both Jeeps while I'm at it.
 
#48,662 · (Edited)
Picked up the new battery from Costco yesterday afternoon. Cable ends were really clean with no corrosion, just a bit of oxidation. Sprayed 'em down with terminal cleaner, shined 'em up with the battery brush and got the battery installed. Fired right up without any issues.

Decided to double check the alternator and ensure it was functioning properly still. Didn't see anything out of the normal, putting out 13.79V while idling with no load and with all electrical accessories turned on at idle it was between 13.66V and 13.71V, kicking up RPM up a bit saw output jump toe 13.8-13.9V. Shouldn't be any issues with the alternator.

I did note that the cable ends are getting a little tired, while I could get them snug down around the battery terminals its pretty obvious that they're stretched out a bit from use over the years.

I think it will finally be time to upgrade to military style cable ends, might as well do both Jeeps while I'm at it.
Being an owner of two WJs also, I can attest to the fact that they are very similar to having kids. What you do for one, you will eventually do for the other.

I swear, if one of my WJs gets work, the other knows it and immediately breaks whatever I fixed on the other one. It happens ALL the time around here, so I usually plan on doing both when I'm figuring for one.

I did my painted grill on my 2002 WJ the other day, as my previous post will reflect.

Yesterday, I spent all day doing body work and painting on the front driver side fender and rear driver side quarter of my 2004 RM Edition. If I get the buffing done, I'll post pics. The color match from the API rattlecan is perfect again. I had the rear quarter dog leg looking factory good until I effed it up with the stupid buffer. :doh: Today, I'm a student of proper buffing technics and equipment.
 
#48,665 · (Edited)
#48,670 ·
Do you have a picture of these seats?
 
#48,672 ·
Video: Np247j to np242amg transfer case swap
It's a Jeep thing. ;-) That must have made an interesting noise when the t-case blew apart! :surprise:

Do yourself a favor and get some impact tools. They will change your life! You could have held those yokes by hand and removed the nut easily using a 1/2-inch impact gun. :smile2: I love my Ridgid brand battery powered gun. It's amazingly powerful and I can't believe how long the 4 amp hour battery lasts. For the really big stuff I break out the Earthquake air gun from Harbor Freight. It's a beast.

Can't wait to see the final result of your adventure! :)
 
#48,674 ·
Video: Np247j to np242amg transfer case swap
I think you will need to get the correct shift lever for the 242. Using the longer 247 lever will probably result in a shorter range (angle) of rotation meaning you won't be able to select all the modes. I'm in the process of going through the same swap and got the 242 shift lever from Cobra Transmission.

EDIT: This is the one I bought.
https://cobratransmission.com/np242-shift-cam-lever-U361626J-3A
 
#48,675 ·
I repaired my drivers side door wiring harness. Some YouTube video claimed pass side connector was identical to driver side.... WRONG but close, and usable. Razor blade fixed the difference. Pass side kits are cheaper so upon his advice I used pass side on driver side.

Worked out ok. Sure is nice to NOT have a possessed WJ anymore.

Fixed random windows down events and seat recline issues that happened at fob door unlock events. Strangely fixed ac problem too.

Don’t fear the fix! 75 mins tops.
 

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#48,676 ·
@leadsled jeep , I have to do this too. Just last week I lost power locks to all doors and hatch but the drivers door is good and power windows to the passenger side. I actually decided to fix my YJ in leu of dealing with the door wire harness repair. Not that its hard, just tedious and annoying . Ill probably get to it this weekend
 
#48,677 ·
Seems that this failure mode is a "when", not "if" sort thing. :(

Tip: When doing this type of repair, try not cut all of the wires to the same length. If you stagger the cuts properly, then you won't end up with a huge bubble of splices in the harness when you put it back together. :)
 
#48,678 ·
Seems that this failure mode is a "when", not "if" sort thing. :(

Tip: When doing this type of repair, try not cut all of the wires to the same length. If you stagger the cuts properly, then you won't end up with a huge bubble of splices in the harness when you put it back together. :)
Definitely a "when" type of thing. Oddly, my front doors have been fine (only a matter of time...) and it was my rear passenger door which had issues. Started out as no sound out of the speaker.
 
#48,679 ·
Seems that this failure mode is a "when", not "if" sort thing.


Tip: When doing this type of repair, try not cut all of the wires to the same length. If you stagger the cuts properly, then you won't end up with a huge bubble of splices in the harness when you put it back together.
The kit I bought from Chrysler had ~14" wires with soldered pins on one end to push into the new connector easily.

I used crimp connectors with the built in heat shrink. Because of the additional wire length I was putting into my new spliced harness, connectors all near each other really is not a problem. My new harness now has about 8-10" additional length. Yet it was easy to tuck into the chassis sheet metal area behind the hood latch release without an issue.

I tried to alter the connector locations at first but quickly gave up due to the short amount of OE wire that I pulled out from the door.

No worries this job is a piece of cake.
 
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