What did you do to your WJ today? - Page 1700 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > WJ Grand Cherokee Forum > What did you do to your WJ today?

Stainless Steel Door Hinge PinsPoly Door Hinge BushingsDisc Brake Kits from ECGS

Reply
Unread 10-27-2013, 08:42 AM   #25486
alfaitalia
CRD Pilot!
 
alfaitalia's Avatar
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bognor, West Sussex. England. Great Britain
Posts: 2,764
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hytek View Post
Yes, opened up and projectors implanted. Hids in a halogen housing is unsafe and annoying to oncoming traffic. I wish law enforcement would start ticketing these people with glaring blue and purple headlights.
Luckily, for the rest of us, the police are really hot on it over here. If you retro fit HIDs they have to be in a projector type housing and you even have to fit a headlamp washers! All new cars sold over here with factory HIDs are fitted with washers. This is because they are so bright that even dirt on the lens can disturb the pattern enough to dazzle oncoming drivers......A std reflector is just not designed for the light output of an HID bulb and therefore you get a bad cutoff, a scattered pattern and blinded drivers!

__________________
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.
alfaitalia is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-27-2013, 08:46 AM   #25487
cykaaro
Registered User
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: orangville, ON
Posts: 2,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by wvracer821 View Post
Philipps HIR bulbs....google it.
x2 on HIR if you don't want to do a proper retrofit to HID's for the best lighting. I've tried all the different 'better' lighting. Silverstars are a lot better from what I've seen by trying all the different brands. Where I am there are very few street lights. I went from barely seeing at night to seeing properly. Night and day difference. And yes, if the lense fronts are in bad shape, doesn't matter what bulbs you put in, you'll still get bad output, period.

Not sure why some say they don't last. I've always had them last between 2-3yrs for me and I drive a lot. One thing I always do is with ALL bulbs, make sure you clean them and take off any oils that are on the glass. As for size? They're 9005 and 9006. They elbow types will work if you're carefully putting them in. Put HIR's in my g/f's and they fit find with a little coaxing. Thos lasted her 4years and finally went about a month a go. She loves my retrofit, but I don't think she'd like all the wiring I'd have to do to it though.

Still have wiring to do to complete getting my overhead lights running. Snowing out again today so don't think it'll happen. Crap.
__________________
The beatings will continue until attitudes improve!

HID Quad bi-xenon + foglight retrofit
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?44572-Jeep-2000-Grand-Cherokee-WJ
cykaaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-27-2013, 08:46 AM   #25488
Hytek
Senior Member
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Romeoville, IL
Posts: 790
Quote:
Originally Posted by alfaitalia View Post

Luckily, for the rest of us, the police are really hot on it over here. If you retro fit HIDs they have to be in a projector type housing and you even have to fit a headlamp washers! All new cars sold over here with factory HIDs are fitted with washers. This is because they are so bright that even dirt on the lens can disturb the pattern enough to dazzle oncoming drivers......A std reflector is just not designed for the light output of an HID bulb and therefore you get a bad cutoff, a scattered pattern and blinded drivers!
That's good to know it's taken seriously out there. I'm surprised it's not taken more seriously here.
__________________
98 5.9 Limited - IRO 3.5", IRO short arms track bars Bilsteins, Addco, JK wheels, 255-75/17 BFG, Magnaflow, Flowmaster
04 Limited 4.7H.O QD, UC+BB, Bilsteins, 245/75-16 Duratracs Addco sway bar
Hytek is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-27-2013, 08:50 AM   #25489
cykaaro
Registered User
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: orangville, ON
Posts: 2,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hytek View Post
I've used them for years in other vehicles and have always had good results. My route to and from work is unlit back roads and side streets with random deer. So anything brighter than OEM works for me. My lenses are good still and I just replaced the housings in my zj. Just read a few threads about the hid retrofit. That'd be awesome but I don't have the patience to do something like that lol.
Grab a case of beer, parts needed, and take your time. It's really not as hard as a lot think it is to do, at least I don't think so. Just have to take your time. there's a few good write ups on how to as well which helps. I did mine with new housings, so although I knocked them off in a weekend, I could have taken as much time as I wanted in doing them.
__________________
The beatings will continue until attitudes improve!

HID Quad bi-xenon + foglight retrofit
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?44572-Jeep-2000-Grand-Cherokee-WJ
cykaaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-27-2013, 08:55 AM   #25490
Hytek
Senior Member
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Romeoville, IL
Posts: 790
Quote:
Originally Posted by cykaaro View Post

Grab a case of beer, parts needed, and take your time. It's really not as hard as a lot think it is to do, at least I don't think so. Just have to take your time. there's a few good write ups on how to as well which helps. I did mine with new housings, so although I knocked them off in a weekend, I could have taken as much time as I wanted in doing them.
Hmmm....getting a second set to experiment with would be a good idea. Maybe I'll reconsider it for a winter project.
__________________
98 5.9 Limited - IRO 3.5", IRO short arms track bars Bilsteins, Addco, JK wheels, 255-75/17 BFG, Magnaflow, Flowmaster
04 Limited 4.7H.O QD, UC+BB, Bilsteins, 245/75-16 Duratracs Addco sway bar
Hytek is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-27-2013, 09:21 AM   #25491
cykaaro
Registered User
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: orangville, ON
Posts: 2,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by NOTW_WJ View Post
I've heard the arguments both ways on it and can only answer from my experience so....
I've adjusted my beams to aim them at the road and in the case of my tall lifted wj (that is usually just a weekend trail rig anyway) I've never had as much as a flash of the high beams from anyone thinking they were too bright...

Now, I've seen some kits, like the lifted Toyota fj that was driving behind me last night, with obnoxiously bright headlights so i can attest not all kits are the same... And you don't have to blind others, to have brighter lights in the process
Please do the research. Aiming them down does NOT get rid of glare, regardless of what you might think. There is still glare so althoug it cuts it down a wee bit, it's still there and is still blinding to other drivers. The flip side is you've now made it dangerous for yourself as you've lost light where you need it. Down the road from you. What this does is screw up your eyes. I saw a WJ last night. Nice bright light 4 feet in front of him and that was all except for the glare reflecting off fo things. No good useable light at all. It's like for offroad the difference in using a flood and pencil beam in a way. Pencil beam lights up in front of you extremely well, flood just throws light everywhere and will look washed out. Lighting up a sign like a christmas tree doesn't mean a thing.

Halogens and HID's are TOTALLY different types of lights, work totally different, emit light totally different, reflect totally different. They are not mix and match, and just because they can get away with selling so called 'plug and play' kits doesn't mean they are. All they are are rebased HID's lights, so they've been altered to fit halogen lighting. As well, HID's put upto 10x the light output of a halogen bulb. Without proper projectors where does this light go? EVERYWHERE! Some cities are more and more charging drivers now. It's like driving with your highbeams constantly on in a lot of ways. It's gotten so bad now even mom's mini-van and transports are just throwing them in. It's getting that bad now. They're are actual studies, etc going on due to so many complaints so don't be surprised when there's a law all of a sudden and you get charged. They've done conrete data how bad the glare is by actual mearsurements of the light and know how blinding it is. Just because not everyone is flashing you doesn't mean anything. Some don't even flash when someone is driving with their hi's on. That kind of a point doesn't mean anything against hard data.


On another note, my favourite is when some *** is binding everyone with his 'look at my great HID's' in his halogen housings. (in esscence he's in highbeam all the time) So I put my HID highbeams on. He throws his hi's on and they're either non-existent/no difference or so looking like normal lights it's laugable. Yo don't want to believe me? No problem. No one has to, but please do some research and do it right or don't do it. I've done a lot of reading of reports in the US (your version of our MTO) has put out. Engineers who design and develop the housings for lighting get paid a lot of $$ for a reason and it really doesn't cost a lot to do it right. A good bi-xenon HID projector kit will cost about $300. You'll have MUCH better lighting than anything else and it's really not all that hard to do. Do it right.

Offroad? have at it. Rules don't apply. (and yes, I do HID's I've done explicitly for non-road or emergency use) because if I do have them on, they bind the **** out of every one. My WARN wireless actually give me flood and pencil beam in one with it converted to HID bulbs, as well as my one set on my roof are converted. But they are not driving with at all due to they blind people. Thats why I did a quad bi-xenon setup. THey're done right for the road, and they out perform any halogen or plug and pray kit out there.
__________________
The beatings will continue until attitudes improve!

HID Quad bi-xenon + foglight retrofit
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?44572-Jeep-2000-Grand-Cherokee-WJ
cykaaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-27-2013, 09:43 AM   #25492
cykaaro
Registered User
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: orangville, ON
Posts: 2,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hytek View Post
Hmmm....getting a second set to experiment with would be a good idea. Maybe I'll reconsider it for a winter project.
The biggest piece of advice I can give is read up on it, and just take your time. The hardest part really is getting the cutoff straight, which is why you test fit it before finishing tightening everything up and putting the lense on. As well make sure the lense doesn't touch the front housing lense. This will give you full adjustment just like stock. Some will add rotational adjustment in as well. I decided not to when I did mine. Just depends what you want is all.

One you get things marked and planned, just take a dremel and cut undersized and slowly enlarge until you get it to fit right. You don't want to cut too big and have to fill a huge gap with JB Weld. That can be a pita. For bolting mine in I just bought long small size stove bolts and extra nuts. I use two nuts tightened together just behind the holes in the projector. This keeps it tight but just enough to allow it to turn I do the same where I bolt into the housing. This in effect makes a standoff. so it's something like this:

(-||------------------||---|-- Where by (= bolt head, and | = nuts. Between the nuts head side is the projector where it bolts down, and on the left side the housing.

Once everything is done, aligned for rotation, and tested as for fit, and stock adjusting working, make sure everything is tightened up, and adjust your proper height. Next JB Weld the back to seal it, and with butyl rubber reseal the lense and you're done. Butyl rubber was worth doing and enough for doing several retrofits. You basicall take it and roll itin your fingers while gently pulling it to make it thinner as, as is, it's too much. You need it nice and thin roll to fit in to replace. It's kinda like working with plasti-scene.

Then it's just wiring in a proper relay harness in and you're good to go. (and yes, you need a relay harness) I've always dealt with Retrofitsource. You can get a 'kit' which will include everything you need. Set of projectors, harness, bulbs, ballasts and shroud. Depending on what you want to do, you could do a bi-xenon or the mini H1 which are the usually choices. Mini's are single veam, be-xenon gives hi/low. Going the latter route is what I'd do if doing single projector setup as it will give you HID lows, but then give you dual highbeam of HID and stock halogen. What basically happens is there's a set of wires you'll drill a hole for and route out the back of the housing and seal. This you'll tap into your highbeam (polarity isn't an issue nor use much power for the selenoid) and when your hi's are activated, it'll drop the cut off shield so there is basically no cut off for the light pattern anymore. They'll actually be much brighter of course than the halogen highbeams but having only two sets of lights on you're still legal. A lot of cars are designed to have both lights on when in hi beam mode so you'll be good. Just better output.

There are several of us that have done it, so many that can help with questions and the like.

As for opening the housing? I use a heat gun and flat screwdriver used carefully and can have the front off in about 10mim. Some put them in the oven. (my g/f would have LOVED me doing that! LOL) Either way will work though. I just found the heat gun for me was very effective and fast.
__________________
The beatings will continue until attitudes improve!

HID Quad bi-xenon + foglight retrofit
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?44572-Jeep-2000-Grand-Cherokee-WJ
cykaaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-27-2013, 09:50 AM   #25493
cykaaro
Registered User
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: orangville, ON
Posts: 2,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hytek View Post
That's good to know it's taken seriously out there. I'm surprised it's not taken more seriously here.
Give it time. It is more and more. Brampton here is known as NA's worth city to drive in. They've cracked down and are ticketing, and typically going after the ricers. It is happening. Because there are DOT specs, as soon as you throw in an HID into the housings, it is no longer, so are illegal. Technically speaking, even a retrofit can been seen as illegal by the same argument. The difference is though, HID projectors are DOT for HID's and done properly. It's the projectors in the housings that aren't. Get's into the 'grey area' of things a bit. But being done properly you're less likely to have any issues than if you look like you're running hi beams all the time.

Only problem I've ever had with local cops is I had white led clearance strips on my last GC. One cop had an issue with it (read probably bored) and swore they were an actual headlight. (even though they don't put out enough light to be one). Guess he had nothing else better to do than bust my balls. Never said boo about my retrofit. If I just threw in a set of HID's in to the stock housings, you bet he'd give me grief over it.
__________________
The beatings will continue until attitudes improve!

HID Quad bi-xenon + foglight retrofit
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?44572-Jeep-2000-Grand-Cherokee-WJ
cykaaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-27-2013, 09:53 AM   #25494
flightmedic238
Registered User
2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Saugerties, NY
Posts: 127
PCV valve, fuel filter, and cleaned the t-body. Fuel filter was yummy!!

image-963354663.jpg



image-2888845476.jpg



image-4252600813.jpg

Why would anyone not change it??!!
flightmedic238 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-27-2013, 10:11 AM   #25495
cykaaro
Registered User
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: orangville, ON
Posts: 2,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hytek View Post
Yes, opened up and projectors implanted. Hids in a halogen housing is unsafe and annoying to oncoming traffic. I wish law enforcement would start ticketing these people with glaring blue and purple headlights.
The funny thing about this is some think it's all about the bulb colour (which is the kelvin rating) that makes the colour. Kelvin rating effects output colour. 3000k is yellow, 4300k which is used for most stock HID's is daylight colour. 5000k is white which is what I perfer personally. Anything else you are changing your output colour for the sacrifice of useable light output (talking putting in proper projectors of course). 6000k starts a blue or greenish blue tinge, 8000k bluish tinge. 10000k an 12000k are purple tinge. Here anything over 8000k are illegal (still some do it regardless) I only know this as I've actually talked to a cop about it.

Now the colours are basically dependent on what rare salts are used. (that's the stuff in the middle bulb part of the HID bulb) which when turned on gives the light.

The misconception part though is, there is what is known as the HID flicker. This is the naturally occuring blue tinge that is seen which is caused by the light and the cutoff. Kinda like shining a light beam through a prism. It has nothing to do with the beam colour. Mine have a very nice blue flicker to them and I use 5000k bulbs. The other thing is colour shifting. After a bulb has been used for a bit, it can colour shift. This is basically what lower quality bulbs will do. Hi quality bulbs won't shift very much if at all. Again it's dependent on what salts are used when manufactured. There is a huge difference between $10-20 bulbs from china and $50 bulbs from retrofit source. My fogs I had some cheapies I had so am using them until they burn out. One has stayed the same, one has colour shifted so they're two different colours now. perfect example of this happening. When I have to replace I'll of course use better bulbs. (and with all retrofit source products, they have a great warranty and customer service over the top which is why I only deal with them)

My 5000k's I've had for 1yr 8m and have never colour shifted and still working great. Had a defective ballast that went. Simple send the required pic and talking with them and I had a replacement in 2days. My 6000k's same deal with colour shifting, but I loose output. THey're for my hi beams, so once they go, they'll be replaced with the 5000's as well. Using both I can really tell the loss of light with the 6000's or the 5000's.
__________________
The beatings will continue until attitudes improve!

HID Quad bi-xenon + foglight retrofit
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?44572-Jeep-2000-Grand-Cherokee-WJ
cykaaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-27-2013, 10:13 AM   #25496
cykaaro
Registered User
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: orangville, ON
Posts: 2,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by flightmedic238 View Post
PCV valve, fuel filter, and cleaned the t-body. Fuel filter was yummy!!

Attachment 790482



Attachment 790490



Attachment 790498

Why would anyone not change it??!!
That's brutal!! Bet it runs a lot better now! Thinking should bet mine changed after seeing this. I don't take mine offroad right now, but still. Who knows what's in it.
__________________
The beatings will continue until attitudes improve!

HID Quad bi-xenon + foglight retrofit
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?44572-Jeep-2000-Grand-Cherokee-WJ
cykaaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-27-2013, 10:20 AM   #25497
flightmedic238
Registered User
2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Saugerties, NY
Posts: 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by cykaaro
That's brutal!! Bet it runs a lot better now! Thinking should bet mine changed after seeing this. I don't take mine offroad right now, but still. Who knows what's in it.
Runs a lot smoother. We shall see about mileage.
flightmedic238 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-27-2013, 10:21 AM   #25498
Hytek
Senior Member
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Romeoville, IL
Posts: 790
Quote:
Originally Posted by cykaaro View Post

The biggest piece of advice I can give is read up on it, and just take your time. The hardest part really is getting the cutoff straight, which is why you test fit it before finishing tightening everything up and putting the lense on. As well make sure the lense doesn't touch the front housing lense. This will give you full adjustment just like stock. Some will add rotational adjustment in as well. I decided not to when I did mine. Just depends what you want is all.

One you get things marked and planned, just take a dremel and cut undersized and slowly enlarge until you get it to fit right. You don't want to cut too big and have to fill a huge gap with JB Weld. That can be a pita. For bolting mine in I just bought long small size stove bolts and extra nuts. I use two nuts tightened together just behind the holes in the projector. This keeps it tight but just enough to allow it to turn I do the same where I bolt into the housing. This in effect makes a standoff. so it's something like this:

(-||------------------||---|-- Where by (= bolt head, and | = nuts. Between the nuts head side is the projector where it bolts down, and on the left side the housing.

Once everything is done, aligned for rotation, and tested as for fit, and stock adjusting working, make sure everything is tightened up, and adjust your proper height. Next JB Weld the back to seal it, and with butyl rubber reseal the lense and you're done. Butyl rubber was worth doing and enough for doing several retrofits. You basicall take it and roll itin your fingers while gently pulling it to make it thinner as, as is, it's too much. You need it nice and thin roll to fit in to replace. It's kinda like working with plasti-scene.

Then it's just wiring in a proper relay harness in and you're good to go. (and yes, you need a relay harness) I've always dealt with Retrofitsource. You can get a 'kit' which will include everything you need. Set of projectors, harness, bulbs, ballasts and shroud. Depending on what you want to do, you could do a bi-xenon or the mini H1 which are the usually choices. Mini's are single veam, be-xenon gives hi/low. Going the latter route is what I'd do if doing single projector setup as it will give you HID lows, but then give you dual highbeam of HID and stock halogen. What basically happens is there's a set of wires you'll drill a hole for and route out the back of the housing and seal. This you'll tap into your highbeam (polarity isn't an issue nor use much power for the selenoid) and when your hi's are activated, it'll drop the cut off shield so there is basically no cut off for the light pattern anymore. They'll actually be much brighter of course than the halogen highbeams but having only two sets of lights on you're still legal. A lot of cars are designed to have both lights on when in hi beam mode so you'll be good. Just better output.

There are several of us that have done it, so many that can help with questions and the like.

As for opening the housing? I use a heat gun and flat screwdriver used carefully and can have the front off in about 10mim. Some put them in the oven. (my g/f would have LOVED me doing that! LOL) Either way will work though. I just found the heat gun for me was very effective and fast.
Great info thanks!
__________________
98 5.9 Limited - IRO 3.5", IRO short arms track bars Bilsteins, Addco, JK wheels, 255-75/17 BFG, Magnaflow, Flowmaster
04 Limited 4.7H.O QD, UC+BB, Bilsteins, 245/75-16 Duratracs Addco sway bar
Hytek is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-27-2013, 12:54 PM   #25499
Jaketit
Registered User
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Port St. Lucie, Florida
Posts: 659
Replaced my steering stabilizer from RC to moog thanks to Nick.

image-709723748.jpg

And also replaced my RC control arm bushings. This is after a year and a half. I'm slowly replacing everything up front.

image-475752562.jpg

Can't wait to to get rid of all this rough country stuff.
Jaketit is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-27-2013, 01:22 PM   #25500
wjidaho
Registered User
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: boise, id
Posts: 1,997
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaketit
Replaced my steering stabilizer from RC to moog thanks to Nick. And also replaced my RC control arm bushings. This is after a year and a half. I'm slowly replacing everything up front. Can't wait to to get rid of all this rough country stuff.
I don't blame ya I am doing the same thing while going bigger. :-D
__________________
[SIZE="4"][url=http://www.exiledoffroad.com]EXILED OFFROAD[/url][/SIZE]

My build thread
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/wjidahos-expedition-build-1904282/[/url]
wjidaho is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.