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Unread 09-30-2013, 09:06 AM   #24901
Ravie
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 1,216
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post

Guess I didn't hear that freezing the ball joints and heating the arms trick. A month ago I replaced the driver's side ball joints on my 2004 and will probably be doing the passenger side ones in the future. I borrowed a pretty good ball joint/bearing kit from one of the local parts stores and was able to get them out/in but sure took a lot of torque. I did use heat to get them out but not in. Not very impressed with the quality of the new Moog ball joints.

Did you have any trouble getting the 3 bolts out of each hub bearing assembly? You're lucky you don't live in the salt/rust belt because those bolts were so seized on mine I had to use a brazing tip on my torch set to heat the area where the threads go through the outside part of the assembly. May have damaged the rubber on the inside of the bearings from the heat and had to install new Timken hub assemblies at $150 for 2. Believe only the box was made in the USA, stamped right on the assemblies "Made in Slovania", and guess that's better than Slobovia! Lol.
Yeah...freezing them of course contracts the ball joint while heat expands the hub bracket holes...

The first time I did ball joints it took a VERY long cheater bar and a lot of swearing. This time using heat I didn't have to use anything bigger than a breaker bar. I did have air(borrowed a compressor) but only used it a couple of times just to speed things up.

I used Raybestos ball joints. No opinion other than they're inexpensive and a brand I recognize.

I'm in KS, so not far out of the rust zone...originally from MN. The Jeep was bought in Nebraska originally. I didn't have to useany heat on those. Just a breaker bar and a grunt. I put a bit of anti-seize on them for install.

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Unread 09-30-2013, 09:11 AM   #24902
bendafinga
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2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: new york
Posts: 23
Pulled the carpet out to clean and dry it properly.
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Unread 09-30-2013, 09:29 AM   #24903
visualj
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Appleton, WI
Posts: 104
Changed the plugs and gave it an oil change. Similar look to the plugs as post above but the center post was even or worse with most plugs.

But the thing that helped most was cleaning and resurfacing the headlights. Added .0004 MPG.


.
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Unread 09-30-2013, 10:31 AM   #24904
MichaelS75
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia
Posts: 131
Finally fixed my stalling/surging problem. Threw a p1296 and p0121 code which pointed towards the map sensor. Discovered the connector was broken causing the wires to periodically touch which threw off the voltage. I decided to replace the crappy wiring to that sensor and fixed the harness. After taping the sh*t out of the connector and sensor all is well so far.
image-2828413904.jpg

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Unread 09-30-2013, 10:33 AM   #24905
Uniblurb
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central, Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravie View Post
Yeah...freezing them of course contracts the ball joint while heat expands the hub bracket holes...

The first time I did ball joints it took a VERY long cheater bar and a lot of swearing. This time using heat I didn't have to use anything bigger than a breaker bar. I did have air(borrowed a compressor) but only used it a couple of times just to speed things up.

I used Raybestos ball joints. No opinion other than they're inexpensive and a brand I recognize.

I'm in KS, so not far out of the rust zone...originally from MN. The Jeep was bought in Nebraska originally. I didn't have to useany heat on those. Just a breaker bar and a grunt. I put a bit of anti-seize on them for install.
This was the 1st time for me in replacing ball joints so gained a lot of experience while info from others here helped a bunch. The huge C-clamp in the kit had such a long threaded shaft I couldn't get anything but a box end wrench on top since don't have a lift installed and didn't feel like dropping the axle. Would have been nice if my ratcheting wrenches would have gone up to the 7/8" size but wouldn't doubt they couldn't take the high torque.

Moog is outsourcing more and more parts and they couldn't even drill/tap the grease fitting hole in the middle of the ball joints. Then followed the directions where I had to put the rubber cover on before pulling it through the top and ended up with about 3/16" of the shaft not covered by the boot. And yeah it's in all the way.

Was kind of worried the hub bearing assembly bolts may back out with anti-seize on all the threads but sure coated the ends of the threads where they rust/seize up. They salt/brine solution the roads around here in Ohia so much it's ridiculous since it eats my Jeeps up while no bolts/nuts are easy!
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Unread 09-30-2013, 10:50 AM   #24906
surfer4life
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: st.davids, pembrokeshire UK
Posts: 29
Fixed my rear brake light and tail light, and fitted new windscreen washers. First time in 12 months all lights are working and we can wash the windscreen
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Unread 09-30-2013, 12:57 PM   #24907
vanillathrilla
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1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Roanoke, VA
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Trying to diagnose hard starts in the new WJ... I had her (over the phone) prime the fuel pump multiple times before actually attempting to start it, and it doesn't seem to be helping. Supposedly the little dealership replaced the fuel pump right before we bought it. Any ideas what else to look for? I can't help but to be a little pissed off.
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Unread 09-30-2013, 01:17 PM   #24908
Hytek
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Location: Romeoville, IL
Posts: 786
Ordered her a Reese hitch and Curt harness. I wanted to stay as close to OEM look as I could without paying OEM prices.
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Unread 09-30-2013, 02:31 PM   #24909
jpat30
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We celebrated her first year with me by turning 100K. In honor of this momentous occasion, I gave her a bath and let her sleep in the garage.
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Unread 09-30-2013, 02:55 PM   #24910
gcjeeping
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Join Date: Feb 2007
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Went with a small group on here for a Nor Cal coastal beach run this weekend. Ran a few logging roads and mountain trails along the way to visit beaches. Also ran some roads through the Giant Redwoods.



































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Unread 09-30-2013, 03:34 PM   #24911
Highschool_WJ
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Minot, ND
Posts: 237
Got a little pissed off, shop I had put my new tires on screwed up the tire balance and then destroyed two lug nuts (they spin freely) when they fixed the tire balance. They failed to tell me this had happened either. I'm glad I checked them! :/
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Unread 09-30-2013, 03:49 PM   #24912
brouwmat
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2002 WJ 
 
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Location: Sioux Falls, South Dakota
Posts: 1,021
Quote:
Originally Posted by Highschool_WJ
Got a little pissed off, shop I had put my new tires on screwed up the tire balance and then destroyed two lug nuts (they spin freely) when they fixed the tire balance. They failed to tell me this had happened either. I'm glad I checked them! :/
How would you fix a lug nut that spun freely after it was installed?
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Unread 09-30-2013, 05:08 PM   #24913
MattJeep
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2003 WJ 
 
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Wow. Real nice. Make sure you get what you deserve when you go back.
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Unread 09-30-2013, 05:14 PM   #24914
Highschool_WJ
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Location: Minot, ND
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brouwmat View Post

How would you fix a lug nut that spun freely after it was installed?
I have no idea how they will fix it. But they said they would fix it for free
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Unread 09-30-2013, 05:34 PM   #24915
rdkendrick
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2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 2,850
Quote:
Originally Posted by wsar10 View Post
the issue is you may be setting yourself up for a new axle period, the seal goes bad the bearing goes bad and than wears a groove in the axle. At that point you HAVE to change the axle. Money may be tight, but I would rather come up with less than $50 now vs a few hundred later.
That's what happened to me. I bought it from the PO, probably with the bearing leaking, but I didn't notice it. I drove it and it just started to get louder. Took it to Midas and they replaced the rear right bearing. I drove it for another 5-6 months, maybe and it started making noise again. Took it back and the told me that the bearing had worn a groove into the axle and that I would need another axle.
They found a used axle to replace it with and put new bearings and seals in it. It has been quiet ever since. I am not sure if the used axle was the same part# or not. I remember the Midas mechanic saying something about this axle being the best one for it. (I wasn't really paying much attention) but I guess I could crawl under and see what the tag says.

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