so is that you way of saying it would not effect the way the rear will behave?
when i took off the part where the stock link was connected to the syawbar and just the portion of the link that was attached was to the unibody was connected the swaybar link would not even pivot, its like the bolt was too tight..would that cause the rear suspension to be more stiff, or would the rear HD OME spring have more of an impact on that? Is this question better suited for a different section of the forum? just trying to get a correct understanding of this. I i design catalogs and such for a living so this is not my expertise
lol...Nothing was meant though I see what you're asking. Sway bars only make a difference when cornering. Think about what happens to your Jeep in a sharp turn. If you are inside the Jeep, your body gets pulled toward the outside of the turn and you'd be up against the door if you didn't have a steering wheel to hang onto, seat bolsters, and even seat belt. Well, the same effect is happening to all the parts of the car suspenion. The part of the Jeep on the outside of the turn gets pushed down toward the road and the part of the car on the inside of the turn rises up. In other words, the body "rolls" toward the outside of the turn. If you take a turn fast enough, the tires on the inside of the turn would actually rise off the road and the car would flip if things continue.
Roll is bad. It tends to put more weight on the outside tires and less weigh on the inside tires, reducing traction. It also messes up steering. What you want is for the body of the car to remain flat through a turn so that the weight of the Jeep stays evenly distributed on all four tires. [insert sway bar] The sway bar (AKA: stabilizer bar) tries to keep the car's body flat by moving force from one side of the body to another. The sway bar; being a long tempered rod of steel with a bend at each end forming 'arms', is a spring. It's center section is attached to the frame and the two arms are attached to each side of your Jeep. All points attached need to flex. Up/Down bumps simply push up both arms at the same time, and the center section of the sway bar pivots up and down.
When you go into a turn, the front suspension member of the outside of the turn gets pushed upward. The arm of the sway bar gets pushed upward, and this applies torsion to the rod. The torsion them moves the arm at the other end of the rod, and this causes the suspension on the other side of the Jeep to compress as well. The Jeep's body tends to stay flatter in the turn than if without a sway bar at all. (Upgrade to Addco or another brand, and the increased rigidity provides even better resistance to the rolling effect)
Without a sway bar you'd have a lot of trouble with body roll in a turn. If you have too much stabilization (ie. mismatched sway bar for your vehicle), you tend to lose independence between the suspension members on both sides of the car. With the latter, when one wheel hits a bump the stabilizer bar transmits the bump to the other side of the car as well, which is not what you want. The ideal is to find a setting that reduces body roll but does not hurt the independence of the tires.
Hope that helps.
Anything worn or, in your case frozen stiff, detracts from things performing as they should. Replacing worn parts always improves something somewhere. And when you bring the butt dyno(meter) into the picture; it seems to always help any of us feel better after having thinned out our wallets.