What did you do to your WJ today? - Page 1184 - JeepForum.com
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post #17746 of 41719 Old 02-23-2013, 09:37 PM
doorjamm
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2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Rocklin
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Got my ENGO 40" bar on. Tested it with jumper cables, wiring will be done when I get some light tomorrow and it's not so cold.

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post #17747 of 41719 Old 02-23-2013, 09:50 PM
gcjeeping
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doorjamm View Post
Got my ENGO 40" bar on. Tested it with jumper cables, wiring will be done when I get some light tomorrow and it's not so cold.
Did the companies do anything for ya?
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post #17748 of 41719 Old 02-23-2013, 09:59 PM
doorjamm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcjeeping

Did the companies do anything for ya?
I got a reply from TruckAddons saying they'd contact me shortly with instructions and authorization to return it to Engo, and then I never got contacted shortly... Waited a month, got impatient, and threw it on. The marks aren't noticeable up there unless you're trying to really look for them I guess. Still disappointed that they shipped it like that, but for 380, I'm still satisfied and I LOVE the output.
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post #17749 of 41719 Old 02-24-2013, 12:29 AM
doorjamm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcjeeping

Did the companies do anything for ya?
How are your lights wired? Where should I run them?
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post #17750 of 41719 Old 02-24-2013, 03:39 AM
1salem1
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2002 WJ 
 
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Gave my ride a temporary paint
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post #17751 of 41719 Old 02-24-2013, 03:41 AM
1salem1
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This another picture
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post #17752 of 41719 Old 02-24-2013, 08:25 AM
MadMonk
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1999 WJ 
 
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Location: Piedmont
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I started hearing this hissing noise all of a sudden from under the dash. It seems that the brake booster started leaking. Sounded like an 18 wheeler's air brakes every time I stepped on the pedal.

I replaced the booster last night. It took about 3-4 hours because I was figuring it out as I went along, plus I figured out that I needed a 13mm deep well socket that I didn't already have to get the booster unbolted from the firewall. Man, that thing is wedged back in there. You have to remove the evap canister and solenoid, and I also ended up removing the air filter box so that I had room to pull the brake distribution block and master cylinder back as a unit to keep from kinking the lines. The master cylinder does have some flexible lines so you can finesse it a bit to get the booster out, but the little bit of extra room you get by pulling the air filter box out really helps.

Everything is back together now, but I ran into an issue where the new booster's brake pedal connector rod was about 1/4" shorter than the old one. This meant that whenever you let off of the brake pedal the brake pedal bar wouldn't go back far enough to engage the brake light switch. The switch is not adjustable and there's no way to adjust the length of the rod. After a few minutes of cussing, I just ended up slightly bending the bracket that holds the switch so that it makes contact with the pedal bar. I sent Cardone (who makes these rebuilt units) an email telling them about it too.

The under-hood work was pretty simple and easy, but working under the dash to unbolt and reinstall the booster was a pain in my back, especially so since I had to spend so much time trying to get the brake light problem fixed. I'm feeling it today. Ibuprofen is my friend.

'99 WJ Limited 4x4, 4.0L, Patriot Blue Metallic, IRO 3" springs, track bar, and rear sway bar links, Doetsch Tech 8000 shocks, Tenneco steering stabilizer, Carolina Driveline double-cardan front drive shaft.
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post #17753 of 41719 Old 02-24-2013, 09:56 AM
Justin_WJ
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Took the boy to go play
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2000 WJ Limited, 4inch RC X, 242 T-case swap, 33x12.50 STT's, 15x8 D window wheels with 3.75 BS, JKS ADJ. Tracbar, T-case armor, Custom front winch bumper, Smittybilt XRC 8, 4.56's Extended Rola Rack w/Harbor Freight 6" lights, and always muddy :)
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post #17754 of 41719 Old 02-24-2013, 11:40 AM
aleet25
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Got tired of always having to use Back To Black on all my plastics when I washed it, so I decided to bedline everything today instead. It worked a few months back on my lower cladding, so I thought why not the other stuff. Side view mirrors, door handles, and rear hatch trim.

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post #17755 of 41719 Old 02-24-2013, 11:55 AM
lvngtheJEEPlife
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aleet25 View Post
Got tired of always having to use Back To Black on all my plastics when I washed it, so I decided to bedline everything today instead. It worked a few months back on my lower cladding, so I thought why not the other stuff. Side view mirrors, door handles, and rear hatch trim.
Spray on? That looks really good!

2001 WJ Limited 4.7 Powertech, Quadradrive, 2" BDS lift.
"If you can't get there in a Jeep, You should reconsider going there."
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post #17756 of 41719 Old 02-24-2013, 12:03 PM
aleet25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lvngtheJEEPlife

Spray on? That looks really good!
Yeah. It's the Rustoleum spray on.
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post #17757 of 41719 Old 02-24-2013, 12:28 PM
USMCBehrensDVLD
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Smithtown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aleet25
Got tired of always having to use Back To Black on all my plastics when I washed it, so I decided to bedline everything today instead. It worked a few months back on my lower cladding, so I thought why not the other stuff. Side view mirrors, door handles, and rear hatch trim.
I've thought about doing that too. How easy is it to clean though? My concern is after you go 4 wheeling it seems like it be hard to get the dirt off since its a coarse layer

2004 Jeep WJ Freedom,4.5inch TerraFlex Coils, CLAYTON Front Long Arms, 2014 Rubicon Wheels on 33s AT
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post #17758 of 41719 Old 02-24-2013, 12:33 PM
sage39henry
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Disconnected the front for the first time since putting the lift on


WHITE WJ LIMITED 4.7 242HD/ IRO arms w/ Rusty's 4.5in coils/Doetsch 5in Shocks/JKS Quicker Disco's/ D44a Spartan Locker/ Rigid Industries 10" light bar/ 33 12.50 15 Mickey Thompson MTZ/ V-5s
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post #17759 of 41719 Old 02-24-2013, 12:40 PM
aleet25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USMCBehrensDVLD

I've thought about doing that too. How easy is it to clean though? My concern is after you go 4 wheeling it seems like it be hard to get the dirt off since its a coarse layer
It's not hard at all. I use a tire brush. It scrubs the dirt right off. I've left dirt and mud on for a few weeks and it scrubs off easy. I've found that dirt stains plastic parts if you don't get it off soon.
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post #17760 of 41719 Old 02-24-2013, 12:54 PM
zephyr80
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: keizer
Posts: 399
I finally finished my rack and attached it this morning

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