warped wj rotors - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 38 Old 08-25-2014, 11:17 AM
Darnice
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As Losttech says, if the lug nuts are not put on in stages and torqued to 100 ft/lbs, you will warp rotors.
I have put over a million miles on cars and never warped a rotor when the lug nuts were installed correctly.
I have over 200,000 on my 04 WJ, never warped a rotor.

The best rotor in the world, will warp if installed incorrectly.

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post #17 of 38 Old 08-25-2014, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
vagov
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcorn View Post
I'm having basically the same problem. '04, replaced the front end with EBC green pads and centric rotors less than a year ago and they already feel warped again. Jeep only has 95k miles on it, brake parts might have 20k. Maybe its the rear now, who knows.
when i got it inspected last july, my mechanic told me to replace the rears sometime this summer, didnt say anything about the fronts, however there probally is plenty of pad left, but the rotors could still be warped. so im thinking to do all 4 anyhow.
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post #18 of 38 Old 08-25-2014, 11:31 AM
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SOME 04's were fitted with the Teves. It depends if your GC was one of the first run. If you are in the first batch with Teves, junk them. Buy Akebono's. Problem solved. Screw all this fancy schmancy spendy crap like Brembo's with cross drilled, 25 piston, 55" diameter, 3 bricks thick junk. You need new CALIPERS. Teves are junk. Akebono's will solve your problem.

Ask me how I know.

P.S. - lug nut torque: VERY important.
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post #19 of 38 Old 08-25-2014, 12:08 PM
leadsled jeep
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Perhaps consider running Stillens if you are going to convert (as I did) to akebonos. I decided that changing rotors twice (once from Teves to Akebonos, then later to Stillens was silly).

Do it one and well, then don't look back. IMHO & experience. Kolak of course....

Good luck!

Chris
'02 Overland 176k+ miles. 2.5" lift, EMF Control Arm upgrades
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post #20 of 38 Old 08-25-2014, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
vagov
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I beleive they are already akebonos. The front calipers look like one full peice and the rears are slightly smaller with a bar that locks down on front. Will try posting pics when i get home.
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post #21 of 38 Old 08-28-2014, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
vagov
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i think the fronts are akobonos and the rears are treves, is this common on a 04 limited??? and why would they be that way???
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post #22 of 38 Old 08-28-2014, 06:07 PM
JohnnyV
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^^^ Yes Akebonos in front and Teves in rear is a standard factory setup from around 2002 onward. Before that it was Teves all around. Akobonos resist disk warping.

2002 WJ Limited 4.7L - Inferno Red
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post #23 of 38 Old 08-28-2014, 07:30 PM
99SK04GTX
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Over torqueing warps rotors

Quote:
Originally Posted by dcorn View Post
I'm having basically the same problem. '04, replaced the front end with EBC green pads and centric rotors less than a year ago and they already feel warped again. Jeep only has 95k miles on it, brake parts might have 20k. Maybe its the rear now, who knows.
Over torqueing warps rotors. I bought a 99 loaded Laredo in 99 and Jeep replaced the warped rotors at 15k miles: they said they were over tightened at the factory.
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post #24 of 38 Old 08-29-2014, 01:45 AM Thread Starter
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the rear pads are not different though, if I buy on line for a wj, do I have to specify akobonos on front and treves calipers on rear? don't want to wait for parts, only to find out there wrong?
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post #25 of 38 Old 08-29-2014, 07:15 AM
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Go for the more expensive Tarox discs.. I've had a seized pin in mine for a while and replaced the pins and greased all round and there's absolutely no damage to the discs at all.. I have the Akebono set up and my pedal is back to normal, so I'd recommend the Tarox discs, incidentally I'm also running EBC's and no issues at all.. pulls up Reeeaaall Nice! Uh Huh!
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post #26 of 38 Old 08-29-2014, 12:25 PM
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www.wjjeeps.com

It will answer your questions without all this "buy new, buy big!" crap.
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post #27 of 38 Old 08-29-2014, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vagov View Post
when I first bought my wj the front rotors were pretty shot. bad vibration and steering wheel shake. so I replaced them with powerstop extreme truck and tow pads and drilled and slotted rotors, since I use my jeep as a tow vechile for my camper as well.. only got about 14.000 miles on them and it feels likes the rotors are warped again, any suggestions on a longer lasting brake system?
Chances are that your caliper slides are stuck. Get a new caliper hardware kit from the dealer cheap and make sure to use Hi-Temperature brake part lube on the pins.

If there is not much wear on those rotors, get them turned for a few bucks and a new set of pads.




BTW, its very hard to actually "warp" the metal of a rotor. Most shimmy feeling is either increased run-out or uneven brake pad residue buildup....

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1973 Mercury Cougar Xr7 convertible 351CJ, C6, 9" rear
1970 Kaiser-Jeep M35A2 W/OW 6x6 Multifuel D-Turbo.


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post #28 of 38 Old 09-01-2014, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc1973 View Post
Chances are that your caliper slides are stuck. Get a new caliper hardware kit from the dealer cheap and make sure to use Hi-Temperature brake part lube on the pins.

If there is not much wear on those rotors, get them turned for a few bucks and a new set of pads.




BTW, its very hard to actually "warp" the metal of a rotor. Most shimmy feeling is either increased run-out or uneven brake pad residue buildup....
Your profile says you have an 02 WJ which would mean that you're a 2nd gen WJ and you have the Akebono's. You say that it's actually very hard to warp a rotor. Have you ever owned a WJ with the Teves? If not, then please don't say that it's hard to warp a rotor. Teves do it ALL the time, no matter how beefy or new a rotor is. It's one of the well-known defects of Teves and the prime reason that the second gen. WJ's got the Akebono's.
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post #29 of 38 Old 09-01-2014, 11:44 PM
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Get Kolak's Stillen setup.

I have 25k on my set and have beaten them pretty good and still lots left front and rear. No warping. They are way, way better than the factory setup.

And who does not torque their wheel nuts on anyway? That's basic stuff. Goes without saying.
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post #30 of 38 Old 09-03-2014, 08:50 AM
Merc1973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VanBCguy View Post
Your profile says you have an 02 WJ which would mean that you're a 2nd gen WJ and you have the Akebono's. You say that it's actually very hard to warp a rotor. Have you ever owned a WJ with the Teves? If not, then please don't say that it's hard to warp a rotor. Teves do it ALL the time, no matter how beefy or new a rotor is. It's one of the well-known defects of Teves and the prime reason that the second gen. WJ's got the Akebono's.


Actually your rotors are not really warping from heat, so that is not the proper terminology. The Teves aren't designed and don't function properly which wears out the rotor unevenly. Again, the pulsations can be from runout or brake pad residue build up causing variations in rotor thickness. If you aren't familiar with how brakes work, i suggest google would be your friend.

2002 WJ Ltd. 4.7 V8, QuadraDrive
1973 Mercury Cougar Xr7 convertible 351CJ, C6, 9" rear
1970 Kaiser-Jeep M35A2 W/OW 6x6 Multifuel D-Turbo.


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