Unusual WJ HVAC issue - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 23 Old 07-01-2013, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
PumaZJ
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Unusual WJ HVAC issue

So I have an 04 WJ with the AZC climate control. Blend doors were done a couple of months ago and replaced both actuators. Got it recharged with r134a. But now I'm realizing I have no control of the temperature. It blows ONLY hot air... REALLY hot air. Is this a problem with the recirc door? Or maybe a problem with the control panel itself?

Also, I can hear the doors creaking open and close several minutes after the ignition is turned off.


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post #2 of 23 Old 07-01-2013, 12:20 PM
rdkendrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PumaZJ View Post
So I have an 04 WJ with the AZC climate control. Blend doors were done a couple of months ago and replaced both actuators. Got it recharged with r134a. But now I'm realizing I have no control of the temperature. It blows ONLY hot air... REALLY hot air. Is this a problem with the recirc door? Or maybe a problem with the control panel itself?

Also, I can hear the doors creaking open and close several minutes after the ignition is turned off.
Unplug your battery for about twenty minutes. Also, if you have not done it recently, clean the battery terminals while you are at it. Twice, in the past month, my dual, AZC has also blown hot air. I just unplugged my battery and let it reset and the cold air came back. I have the blend door fix, also. It's possible you might be hearing the recirc door noise. I know my recirc door is broken.

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post #3 of 23 Old 07-01-2013, 12:23 PM
lazyWJ
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This isn't likely related to your recirc door, although odds are it's broken too. Before you reset (disconnect your battery), check your AZC codes to see what they tell you.

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post #4 of 23 Old 07-01-2013, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
PumaZJ
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I'll reset the battery after work and see if it still throws some codes. I recalibrated it after I did the blend door fix but obviously something is still amiss.

1998 ZJ - 36's & bent unibody - RIP
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post #5 of 23 Old 07-01-2013, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
PumaZJ
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Well I reset the battery and did a self-check. The A/C actually seemed to be blowing fine, but now the heat won't come on. The self check gave me a code 22 (left temp door travel too large) and 24 (right temp door travel too large).

What does this mean?

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post #6 of 23 Old 07-01-2013, 06:58 PM
lazyWJ
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It sounds as though both blend doors or actuators are broken. Depending on where everything stops after recalibration, you can get different scenarios with heat or no heat. I'd drop the glovebox and remove the left side actuator. Inspect the drive sleeve/cup closely for a split. Operate the door axle by hand and see if it changes temps as you move it, and make sure it has definite stops.

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post #7 of 23 Old 07-01-2013, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
PumaZJ
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Originally Posted by lazyWJ View Post
It sounds as though both blend doors or actuators are broken. Depending on where everything stops after recalibration, you can get different scenarios with heat or no heat. I'd drop the glovebox and remove the left side actuator. Inspect the drive sleeve/cup closely for a split. Operate the door axle by hand and see if it changes temps as you move it, and make sure it has definite stops.
Thanks for the advice. The blend doors, heater core, and actuators are less than 3 months old so I really don't want to deal with taking the dash apart.

Just curious, does anyone know how the code 22 and 24 differ from codes 55 and 56? They seem to say the same thing.

1998 ZJ - 36's & bent unibody - RIP
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post #8 of 23 Old 07-01-2013, 07:36 PM
lazyWJ
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You don't have to take anything apart to check the left actuator, it's right behind the glovebox door.
I've heard that some of the aftermarket actuators are very prone to splitting the drive sleeve. Did you replace them with OEM?

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post #9 of 23 Old 07-01-2013, 07:42 PM
rdkendrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PumaZJ View Post

Thanks for the advice. The blend doors, heater core, and actuators are less than 3 months old so I really don't want to deal with taking the dash apart.

Just curious, does anyone know how the code 22 and 24 differ from codes 55 and 56? They seem to say the same thing.
You can get a kit where you do not have to take the dash off. I used www.blendorstore.com. Dual zone kit.
Who replaced the blend doors? Did they use new parts, or used? Mopar or other? The kits use metal, as compared to the plastic that Chrysler used. It's possible that the plastic could be cracked, again, if that's what they used. The 22 & 24 are probably the opposite of 55 & 56. One is too large, one is too small, meaning the doors are either not opening enough, or too much, letting in too much cold air, or too much heat.

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post #10 of 23 Old 07-01-2013, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lazyWJ View Post
You don't have to take anything apart to check the left actuator, it's right behind the glovebox door.
I've heard that some of the aftermarket actuators are very prone to splitting the drive sleeve. Did you replace them with OEM?
Yeah, I've checked the actuator behind the glovebox. When it goes through the self check the actuator seems to turn through all of the positions. But when I try to change the temp through the controller, no dice.

All parts were replaced with Autozone parts which I've had good luck with in the past. I still have a hunch it might be the control panel, but don't really want to fork out $120 for a new one on a hunch.

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2004 WJ - Expedition build
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post #11 of 23 Old 07-01-2013, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by PumaZJ View Post

Yeah, I've checked the actuator behind the glovebox. When it goes through the self check the actuator seems to turn through all of the positions. But when I try to change the temp through the controller, no dice.

All parts were replaced with Autozone parts which I've had good luck with in the past. I still have a hunch it might be the control panel, but don't really want to fork out $120 for a new one on a hunch.
If the self-check fails, it will shut down the motor until the next self-check. That might be part of your problem. You are getting an error code on both sides. Do what LAZYWJ said and drop the glovebox, remove the actuator motor and see if you can change the temperature by moving the shaft. If you can, then I'd say you have the blend door problem, again, which can be fixed without removing the dash.

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post #12 of 23 Old 07-02-2013, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rdkendrick View Post
If the self-check fails, it will shut down the motor until the next self-check. That might be part of your problem. You are getting an error code on both sides. Do what LAZYWJ said and drop the glovebox, remove the actuator motor and see if you can change the temperature by moving the shaft. If you can, then I'd say you have the blend door problem, again, which can be fixed without removing the dash.

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Do I need to actually unbolt the actuator? Or just disconnect the harness and try to turn the white plastic dial?

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2004 WJ - Expedition build
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post #13 of 23 Old 07-02-2013, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by PumaZJ View Post

Do I need to actually unbolt the actuator? Or just disconnect the harness and try to turn the white plastic dial?
You will need to unscrew the motor,

(See photo 2)

lay it aside, and be able to move the blend door by turning the white actuator.

(See photo 1)

Though, without it being cut out, this is the door you will be moving:

(See photo 3)

Notice the aluminum actuator the kit replaces the plastic with. You should feel the temperature change from hot to cold, on the driver's side, as you do this.

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post #14 of 23 Old 07-02-2013, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
PumaZJ
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Thanks for the details and photos!

When I pull the actuator off, should the blend door turn freely? What am I looking for at this point?

1998 ZJ - 36's & bent unibody - RIP
2004 WJ - Expedition build
2011 A4 - DD
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post #15 of 23 Old 07-02-2013, 12:51 PM
rdkendrick
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Originally Posted by PumaZJ View Post
Thanks for the details and photos!

When I pull the actuator off, should the blend door turn freely? What am I looking for at this point?
Yeah, it should. Have the climate control running and you should feel it changing from hot to cold, that is assuming you have warmed up the vehicle, and have the A/C on, too. It should turn as far as the door does, then stop, both ways, if it doesn't turn, or turns hard, then the foam, or something else is blocking it. If it turns freely all the way around, your door is broken. Also, if it does not change from hot to cold, then the door is broken. You should have anywhere from 90- 120 degrees movement. Picture one shows what usually breaks on these doors. Picture two shows how the doors are put together and what the kit looks like.

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