I had DW on my recently acquired 03 WJ (wife's old rig). Upper TRE was shot, steering gear box was dying and tires were on their way out. Replaced those three components and got an alignment and now the DW is gone. Note: ball joints were good and track bar bushings were good. My hunch is that the shotty steering components allowed for the steering slop, and the tires being badly worn and out of alignment amplified everything into the dreaded DW.
I am fighting death wobble right now. I just fitted 2 inch spring spacers (as a temporary lift until I can afford 3" IRO) and now I have instant death wobble (never had it before). I have checked for play in all suspension components and the only thing that I could really find was excess play in the TRE on the knuckle end of the drag link. Initially I discounted this as the cause because everywhere else on the internerd I have read about DW nobody has mentioned TREs. This is the first time I have read about it - thanks to this pole I will now change the TRE and hopefully conquor the dreaded DW - then I will vote.
A big thanks from me!!!
Ok so my tie rod end didn't arrive today (thanks a lot Australia Post - 1 day guaranteed delivery my ball bag!!!). I did get new tyres and a wheel alignment though and I can't make a death wobble happen now!!
I upgraded tyres from 235/65/17 HTs to 265/70/17 chunky ATs (ie. 29s to 32s).
I'm not convinced that this has cured my death wobble. I think that the bigger, chunkier tyres absorb the road undulations and any attempt of DW to try and start. I can still feel the steering wheel flutter every now and then but it dies away very quickly.
I haven't voted because I'm not convinced I have cured DW. I still have a shot TRE, shot steering damper, 4 shot shockies, stock track bar and bushes and very flexy stock control arm bushes. I think I have only masked DW for now but at least I'll be able to drive 5 hours up the coast tomorrow.
My theory is that DW is caused by too much play in the whole front end setup. There may be one single item that, when replaced, reduces the amount of play in the front end enough to not allow death wobble to happen, it may require a combination of parts to be replaced. My theory anyway, for what it's worth.
mine would happen at 55-60 but wouldnt under that. i replaced the stock ss of 104k that i bumped installing the lift which leaked a couple of a drops. turned out to cause a two inch air pocket and gave me the DW
I had DW after installing 3/4 spacers on my 2" lift springs. The front tires were getting fairly thin and I'm guessing the cases were not very round. The TREs and ball joints have 112K on them. In order to be able to drive the Jeep I swapped the tires front to back (the rear tires have quite a bit more tread) when I installed my new shocks and haven't had a recurrence of DW. The TREs are still worn out but swapping the tires masked the problem for now. I am going to buy new Moog TREs next week and plan on buying new tires this spring.
I don't think you are supposed to be able to easily rotate the drag link or TRE link which is why I think they are worn.
Forgive this Jeep Noob but what is a TRE? Thanks!!
'02 Overland 130k+ miles. 245-70-17 GG AT2's. BDS 2" lift, Bilstein 5100's, JKS QDs. Addco Swaybars F/R. Stillen Front Rotors/ Pads. TRE's, BJ's, wheel bearings. 100% Amsoil. I like my rifles like my coffee, hot, black and continually refilled.
Question to those of you that have solved this problem.
I feel lots of movement In the steering wheel and can only get it to dw at low speeds 30-35 over continuous bumps.
? 3in IRO
?tires balanced and fairly good cond.
?New track bar w/hard bushings
?Drag link tre's -New
?Ball joints are good
?tre's are "good" as stated by midas and the have no left/right play only twisting
The lca bushings are cracking and I can twist and move them by hand.
How many of you found this lca's to be the problem?