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Unread 11-09-2013, 07:06 PM   #1
ZJPunk98
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Trouble removing rear springs

Hi Guys,

I am having a hard time getting the rear axle to drop far enough to remove the old springs are install the new ones (kolak's 3" hd kit). I can push down on the axle with all my body weight to break the spring free from the worn isolators but not far enough to get them over the lower bumpstop.

Any ideas?

I am trying to remove the rubber bump stop at this time, but it is difficult since it is inside the spring.

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Unread 11-09-2013, 07:23 PM   #2
golfinWJ
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Try spring compressors maybe?
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Unread 11-09-2013, 07:24 PM   #3
ZJPunk98
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that would probably be a good idea. I just got it out though. I finally was able to remove the bump stop. Thanks for the input
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Unread 11-09-2013, 11:58 PM   #4
MuddyWJ
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You'll have more trouble putting new springs in. Jack up opposite side of install under control arm. Makes it real easy.
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Unread 11-10-2013, 04:43 AM   #5
Darnice
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Did you disconnect the sway bar??

Also, if you did not losten the bolts holding the lower control arms to the frame and axle, you may have torn the rubber inside the arms, and you will need new ones
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Unread 11-10-2013, 01:06 PM   #6
gold01wj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darnice View Post
Did you disconnect the sway bar??

Also, if you did not losten the bolts holding the lower control arms to the frame and axle, you may have torn the rubber inside the arms, and you will need new ones
I made that mistake! I'm replacing my rear lowers this week because of it.
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Unread 11-10-2013, 02:40 PM   #7
ZJPunk98
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Well that will suck if I have damaged the bushing in the CAs. I will take a look at those. I was able to get the new springs in by pushing down on the axle with my body weight and sliding the new spring in.
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Unread 11-10-2013, 05:51 PM   #8
gold01wj
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If you did mess the bushings up you will know pretty soon. I started getting torque steer almost immediately after I put my lift on. My upper bushings have also recently failed so I elected to just replace all three rear control arms and ball joint, and be done with it for another 130000 miles( that's about how much my stock arms have)
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2000 wj limited quadradrive 4.7 fully loaded DD- 247>242 hd swap with double cardan front shaft, 4in RCX lift, JK moabs with Goodyear wranglers.
1998 chevy k2500 hd- too much to list
1957 chevy 3100-too much to list
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Unread 11-11-2013, 06:51 PM   #9
ZJPunk98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gold01wj View Post
If you did mess the bushings up you will know pretty soon. I started getting torque steer almost immediately after I put my lift on. My upper bushings have also recently failed so I elected to just replace all three rear control arms and ball joint, and be done with it for another 130000 miles( that's about how much my stock arms have)
what type of replacement did you use and how much did that cost?
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Unread 11-12-2013, 05:32 AM   #10
gold01wj
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I just went to amazon. I got what looks to me to be the same parts quadratec sells. I paid $270ish for both lowers and the upper with bushings pre installed I also opted for the mopar ball joint as well for $45ish. My dealer wanted $70 for the ball joint alone. So for $270 or so to my door I have all new rear suspensions arms and ball joint. It took me about 2.5 hours to swap it all out. The biggest pita as usual is the three ball joint plate bolts. A little tip: When i put it back together I mounted the plate to the diff first so, with the upper arm out of the way, I could properly re torque the bolts. I also used ratchet straps to move the axle around to line up the bolt holes in the axle, and to help get the upper ball joint lined up to the arm. If you go this route you will need to get a 14mmx2.0 lock nut for the ball joint stud. (Less than $1.50 at tractor supply)
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2000 wj limited quadradrive 4.7 fully loaded DD- 247>242 hd swap with double cardan front shaft, 4in RCX lift, JK moabs with Goodyear wranglers.
1998 chevy k2500 hd- too much to list
1957 chevy 3100-too much to list
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Unread 11-12-2013, 07:22 AM   #11
99WJ539918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gold01wj View Post
I just went to amazon. I got what looks to me to be the same parts quadratec sells. I paid $270ish for both lowers and the upper with bushings pre installed I also opted for the mopar ball joint as well for $45ish. My dealer wanted $70 for the ball joint alone. So for $270 or so to my door I have all new rear suspensions arms and ball joint. It took me about 2.5 hours to swap it all out. The biggest pita as usual is the three ball joint plate bolts. A little tip: When i put it back together I mounted the plate to the diff first so, with the upper arm out of the way, I could properly re torque the bolts. I also used ratchet straps to move the axle around to line up the bolt holes in the axle, and to help get the upper ball joint lined up to the arm. If you go this route you will need to get a 14mmx2.0 lock nut for the ball joint stud. (Less than $1.50 at tractor supply)

Nice, I want to do the same, too. I'm gong to replace everything at once.
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Unread 11-12-2013, 07:47 AM   #12
gold01wj
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It's definitely easier that way. Just do it all and forget it rather than worrying every 6 months about another failed component. If you search around its pretty cost effective as well.
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2000 wj limited quadradrive 4.7 fully loaded DD- 247>242 hd swap with double cardan front shaft, 4in RCX lift, JK moabs with Goodyear wranglers.
1998 chevy k2500 hd- too much to list
1957 chevy 3100-too much to list
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Unread 11-12-2013, 07:02 PM   #13
ZJPunk98
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Thanks for the insight.
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