Tried to do Spark Plugs today in the 4.7--Didn't happend - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 44 Old 09-23-2012, 08:13 PM
mjWJ12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283

Your new plugs appear to stick further into the cylinder than your old ones.

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Maybe your right but now its purring like a kitten..also getting better gas mileage


(04 WJ Laredo)3" IRO +3/4" front spacers; Custom rear bumper +d-rings; universal front tow hook; plasti-dipped 16" silverblades; premium sliders; custom hi-lift mount; 265/75/16 Cooper Discoverer ATP.

Here is my Build Thread
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post #32 of 44 Old 09-23-2012, 09:20 PM
billzcat1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
Your new plugs appear to stick further into the cylinder than your old ones.

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That's because he's replacing the wrong plugs with the right ones.
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post #33 of 44 Old 09-24-2012, 12:41 AM
irzyxel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
That's because he's replacing the wrong plugs with the right ones.
lol I need to catch up and get mine done before it's twenty degrees out!

2004 Overland stock with 103,000 miles
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post #34 of 44 Old 09-24-2012, 07:30 AM
Gunrunner23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milresq
HOLY CR@P I did 4 of mine today. Thanks to Oreily's giving me the wrong plugs and having to run back to the store to get the right one's. But mine came right out no problem. When you put them back use dielectric grease. It helps going back in and coming out the next time.

LOL LOL

Tks for the laugh. I always thought I was the only one that had these problems.
LOL

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post #35 of 44 Old 09-25-2012, 01:00 PM
jager66
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Wj

Quote:
Originally Posted by narnwv View Post
You need the correct plugs, otherwise damage can occur.

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Cripes I don't have a HO-

I have been running on them for over a year now and done a few thousand miles.
I run on LPG and was told copper core plugs were not ideal for LPG.
It runs well, my only problem being an intermittent P0204 code, but I had that before changing plugs.
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post #36 of 44 Old 09-25-2012, 09:05 PM
shepd
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I use copper plugs for propane (different vehicle) and they work great for me. I don't see any reason you'd have trouble with the copper plugs.
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post #37 of 44 Old 10-25-2012, 02:42 PM
jager66
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I am told they burn out quicker due to increased temp as do the valves on some cars.
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post #38 of 44 Old 10-25-2012, 05:25 PM
coopdc78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 Grand View Post
I know exactly what you mean. I have a '00 Camaro SS. #8 had to be done from below. The 4.7 is EASY in comparison. Even #8 in the 4.7 isn't bad if you get the throttle and cruise control cables and the wiring harness out of the way. It takes a few more minutes to disconnect that stuff, but I think it's worth it.
Even more fun when u have headers

2004 overland 4 inch rc long arm/ 3/4 inch spacers, 242 swap with SYE, Tom woods front and rear
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post #39 of 44 Old 11-08-2012, 06:39 PM
dsodko
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My first change took 4 hrs. Second change took 2 hrs. I used a lot of 3/8 sockets & extensions. #8 was pain ! I took the coil in front of it out so I could see ! 1/4 socket & extensions to get to the 10mm nuts at rear. I found that if you take the 10mm nut off the support for the dip stick it helped.

Tack your time and be careful so you don't drop anything ! Best of luck.

Also, only use Champions brand plugs !
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post #40 of 44 Old 11-08-2012, 07:02 PM
dsodko
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If your engine area is dirty, blow the top of the air plenum off and around the coil/connection so not as to get dirt in the threads when you are replacing the plugs.

Also, if you use too much silicone grease, the coil/connection may seem to want to bounce back. Don't worry. The stuff drys out. It makes a good waterproof seal and easier to remove the coil/connections next time.

I use a good anti seize compound. I prefer one with copper. I found some in a small tube. We used it at IBM for years. I don't like the stuff some part stores have because it had aluminum added.

Your cylinder heads will love you if you follow instruction and don't over torque the plus. 20 foot/lbs.
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post #41 of 44 Old 11-09-2012, 01:55 AM
centralmuscle
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Guess I got lucky. Just did them when I changed the driver side valve cover gasket(screw the passenger side!) and they all came off easy with a slight twisting motion. One thing I highly recommend is putting dielectric lube(non conductive) on the new plug ceramic insulator, and around the coil pack O ring, to make putting them back in a breeze. My new plugs(autolite) were slightly thicker on the ceramic and needed the lube to slip into the coil pack bottom rubber sleeve.
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post #42 of 44 Old 03-24-2014, 04:42 PM
fiveseven15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 Grand View Post
I know exactly what you mean. I have a '00 Camaro SS. #8 had to be done from below. The 4.7 is EASY in comparison. Even #8 in the 4.7 isn't bad if you get the throttle and cruise control cables and the wiring harness out of the way. It takes a few more minutes to disconnect that stuff, but I think it's worth it.
i think it'd be easier to pull the body off than to do the last plugs on those cars. or remove your glovebox and cut a hole in the firewall, and change them from inside the car lol (not really)
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post #43 of 44 Old 03-24-2014, 07:56 PM
DC_Leach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadga1390 View Post
now try an LS1 in a 2002 Trans AM WS6! talk about working in tough conditions. especially with factory plugs at 145k miles (owner must've lost his mind) those wires were glued on at that point. once u reach that point you've mastered spark plugs imo lmao.
If its anything like the 3.8 in my old firebird, you damn near had to take the exhaust manifold off and get to the plugs from the bottom hahaha
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post #44 of 44 Old 03-24-2014, 08:35 PM
wj47ho2004
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I thought changing plugs on a 4.7 was easy. I did it once on my ho with champion platinums and on 2x on my truck with coppers. My old zj with the 5.2 was a pita to change the plugs, distributor and rotor and wires. You really don't get to see what you are doing while laying on top of the engine while getting the wire order correct. Next time ill suspend myself from the ceiling like mission impossible lol.
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