I hope I put this in the right location. My brother in law has a 2000 Grand Cherokee with the 4.7 in it and the transfer case is making all kinds of noise. I work on diesels mostly, but he is wanting me to replace the transfer case for him. My question is, are there ant special tools I need to remove this transfer case? Does any exhaust, crossmembers need to be removed? I haven't looked under it yet, just wanting to get an idea before hand. Thanks for helping the Noobie out.
It will be a little easier if you drop the cross member a little bit to get to the bolts on top of the case, but no special tools required. If you are doing a straight swap, it can be done in as little as 20 minutes. For a newb, maybe an hour or two if you take your time.
2002 Overland - 4.7 HO, "Select-Drive", 4" RC long arms, TAG front winch bumper, 32" BFG KM's, 3" exhaust, Magnaflow hi-flow cat, Flowmaster 50 series
After reading this thread about the eezy-peezy TC replacement [remove driveshafts, lower crossmember, 6 bolts, slide back and voila!) I ordered a rebuilt unit and now I am under this thing and it looks like there is no way that lip on the front of the TC is gonna get past the big bracket (surprise!) between the TC and the cross member.
Also there is an exhaust hanger (surprise!) bracket that looks like it is in the way.
Also not sure how to disconnect the cable (remove the bracket from the TC or remove the cable from the bracket?)
It is not clear whether it is easier to remove the bracket from the TC and hope to get the TC to clear it or to remove the bracket from the crossmember still attached to the TC and take the whole thing out.
Is there a *complete* list of steps posted anywhere for replacing the TC on a WJ? I'd hate to admit defeat and take this thing to get installed but i don't want to spend days playing guessing games with it.
OK my fault I now get that the 6 bolts everyone talks about holding the transfer case are not the bolts that are visible but are six studs that are completely invisible from underneath except I can feel them with my fingers.
So they look like a real pain to get off but that's just work.
I think I know what has to happen now except for one thing- I received a new gasket from Transfer Case Express with the rebuilt TC for the mating surface between the TC and the transmission, but in all the instructions I have found I can't find anything that mentions that gasket or what type of sealer if any to put on it. I tend to use RTV black wherever oil is the concern, or Permatex aircraft sealant on stuff that is really hard to seal properly.
No gasket between the two. The trans has it's own seal and the t-case has 1 too. The 6 nuts on the studs are actually 9/16 size. Use a half moon 9/16 wrench or a ratcheting 9/16 crows foot for the top nuts. I baught the ratcheting crows foot from the snap-on guy for like $20. makes it so much easier and you can use it on other stuff too.
Most of the undercarriage on this looks like it was hauled up from the Titanic and the PO was not real diligent about maintenance below the beltline, so getting to the point of being ready to unbolt the TC nuts has so far been a big weekend exercise of breaker bars and PB Blaster and hoping bolts don't snap off.
However, here I am with the driveshafts out, the shifter cable disconnected, the shifter bracket unbolted, the crossmember dropped a couple inches, an time to remove the TC nuts.
I started first with the one on the bottom but there is a big bracket bolted to the bottom of the trans that is in the way. I've got 1/4 , 3/8 ratchets, short and deep sockets, flex-head gear wrenches, swivels, etc. and I can get the 1/4 ratchet with the deep socket over the head of the nut but cranking on that with the little bit of room that is in there it will not budge.
I can see if I dropped the bracket off the trans I could get to it to put a breaker bar on it but I just don't see how you folks get these frozen nuts off with no room to work. maybe I just need to go buy a set of box end wrenches with right-angle heads or crows-foot wrenches that you all have because I'm just not seeing how to do it. But thanks for all the tips.
Its not that easy and i dont see how anyone could do this in an hour- the nuts are a pita tp get to, soma stubby wratcheting wrench helps a lot. Many one click turns.. Also, the top stud is a special 10mm star if i remember right.. This thread is a step by step http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...d-swap-510546/
That's what I don't get. In the pic i posted where the not is wedged between two curved supports there's no room for a crows foot or a flex head wrench or anything bigger than a 1/4 ratchet and that has no room to extend for more torque since the crossmember is in the way. And this should be one of the easy ones. So apparently someone is smarter than me about how to do this and I've been working on cars for 30 years.
I know exactly what and where you are talking about. I did this a couple weeks ago. At that specific nut, I think you need a socket about 1/2 the length, so your wrench sits in the middle of that small open space. You will only be turning one click at a time. You may need a wratcheting wrench. Or spray some pb blaster watch some football and try later.
I have a 242hd waiting to replace my 247 and I am not looking forward to dealing with these nuts again. When I did it two years ago and had a few stuck nuts/bolts I ended up hooking one end of a chain to a jack, looping it over the wrench handle (the handle needed to come down how it was oriented), then hooking it to the jack again and using the jack as a breaking device. My dad had spent the better part of a day trying to get the stuck bolts before I came and saved him with this technique. Broke all the bolts free in minutes and was an absolute breeze from there.
Don't anyone take this the wrong way but as a first timer I have to appreciate the humor in a forum where I am trying to do something that everyone has done but no one can describe exactly how to do it.
So after trying every combination of tools out there I will post for future poor suckers exactly what will fit over that &*%$# nut on the bottom. I can't wait to try the hard ones.
Note the three pictures.
Phase 1: breaking it loose.
There is one that shows the combination of tools that will fit over the nut in that tiny space and break it loose, namely:
A 9/16 socket that is 1-1/4 high. A standard short socket is to shallow to go down over the stud and a standard deep socket is too long so no clearance to ratchet it. I found the 1-1/4" long socket at the bottom of my tool box and all it said was "TAIWAN" and was pretty beat up so I probably bought it on sale at KMart 30 years ago. Don't waste your time with regular length sockets.
A Craftsman socket cap. This is a hex cap that fits into a socket so you can turn it with a box end wrench.
An 11/16 flex head gear wrench to turn the socket cap. You need the flex head to clear the cross member to use the pipe.
A piece of 1-1/4 pipe to slip over the Gear wrench to put enough torque to break it loose.
Phase 2: taking the nut most of the way. I used a 1/4 Micro ratchet from Northern tool with a 1/4-3/8 adapter that gave it just enough vertical length to have some room to ratchet.
Phase 3: 9/16th combination wrench to take the nut off once the Micro ratchet stops against the bracket when the nut has moved far enough that the ratchet can't go any further. Actually you might need to ratchet it up to loosen then back it back down to use the combination wrench.
Second picture is how all this stuff was assembled.
Third picture is all the stuff that DOES NOT WORK. Note that had I had a socket that was the required 1-1/4 length and 12-point instead of 6-point I might have found some other combination.