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Unread 06-22-2010, 01:18 AM   #1
straty1987
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transfer case output seal replacement procedure, am i messing anything ?

I have to replace the output seal on my 247 transfer case and want to make sure i do it right the first time.

most people recommend the mopar seals over others and other parts stores have them listed odd or wrong. i believe the mopar part number is 4897298AA for the 247 SEAL OUTPUT SHAFT.

i have gathered this is the correct way to do it. correct me if i am wrong
1) drive the rear of jeep up on a ramp and chock the front tiers
2) put on the parking break on, because I will have to remove the rear drive shaft and "park" does not work when the drive shaft is disconnected.
3) Drain transfer case fluid
4) mark the line across the pinion yoke so it will be installed right later, then Remove rear drive shaft and slide it out of the t-case output. oil might leak out so keep a oil pan near by and keep the TC output shaft for getting dirty or damaged.
5) The old seal is now exposed. Hook it with a "seal puller" tool and pry it out of there. Careful you are prying on the seal and not digging into the aluminum inside the housing. It should come out somewhat easily.
6) Tap the new seal in place. You can do this easily with just a rubber mallet and block of wood
7) Re-install drive shaft. Careful there is no dirt on the surface that is to seal with the t-case.
8) fill the TC with new fresh fluid

question
-how heavy will the drive shaft be?
since i will be on my back, should i consider putting a jack stand under it just for help?
- will these work for step 5?
AutoZone.com | 5 lbs. Slide Hammer | 5 lbs. Slide Hammer and
AutoZone.com | 4 wheel drive spindle puller attachment for use with OEM slide hammer 27033 and others with 5/8 in. x 18 thread | 4 wheel drive spindle puller attachment for use with OEM slide hammer 27033 and others with 5/8 in. x 18 thread
- if not anyone have another method for removing the seal?
like with a screwdriver or pliers
- in step 6 when using a block of wood, the wood has to be thin enough to go into the output shaft correct?
- when installing the shaft going into the TC can it go in wrong or is there no wrong way?
i know when connecting DS to the rear it has to be installed in the same way i removed it.
- this should be an hour job max right

thanks for your time and have a few pics below

also so i looked in the FSM
and these is the how to for removing the drive shaft, this is simple


and this is the how to for the seal the special tools are throwing me off


what my TC looks like has been leaking more but not to a puddle amount, and just want to fix it


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Unread 06-22-2010, 01:06 PM   #2
straty1987
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bumping it back to page 1, thanks
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Unread 06-23-2010, 02:48 PM   #3
straty1987
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just going to go a head and do it and if i run into anything problems will try to figuer it out myself or post a new thread.

figures someone would have some info on this since people say the seals breaking are common thing.

Last edited by straty1987; 06-23-2010 at 05:35 PM..
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Unread 06-24-2010, 09:29 AM   #4
SA59GRAND
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straty1987....Let me know how it goes, I hope it is the same method to replace the Transmission Output Seal because mine is Leaking Output Seal on back of Transmission leaking on my ZJ on Flickr - Photo Sharing! If I can find any Info I will send it to you.
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Unread 07-04-2010, 01:43 AM   #5
nazerine
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Sorry to bump this a little late, but I did the rear output/tcase input shaft seal on my 44re/242. Also did all 3 seals on the tcase...

Buy one of these tools, cheap, and makes removing seals of this type (with a shaft in the way), really easy. Just be careful with the sharp claw

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Unread 01-03-2011, 04:24 PM   #6
mcclintock89
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looks like i'll be doing this one this weekend. how did replacing the seal go?
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Unread 01-03-2011, 05:55 PM   #7
nickblack
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The special tools shown in the FSM are to remove the bushing behind the seal, which is unecessary. Just change the seal as you described.
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Unread 01-03-2011, 06:04 PM   #8
nickblack
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Straty, re read ur post. DO NOT put wood into out put seal. Place seal in opening and using a mallet, place block of wood over the seal and tap it in until seal is flush with opening. You can remove the seal with a $5 seal puller or a vise grip. If you have a slide hammer u can use that too, but I wouldnt buy it unless u are building ur tool box. A cheap set of bearing race drivers are also good to tap seals in. I think Lisle tools has a set for $15 or so. Also, driveshaft is surprisingly light, U don't need a jack to support it.
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Unread 01-03-2011, 06:54 PM   #9
straty1987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcclintock89 View Post
looks like i'll be doing this one this weekend. how did replacing the seal go?
never had the time to do it since i tried to take off the bolt on the yoke and did not move so i hit it with more PB blast and liquid wrench never had time, but been toping off my fluid.

i did notices that to take off the bolt a opned end wrench and a cheater bar will help, but the bolt is so small that teh wrench is really thin and might bend. forgot teh size think its 8mm


might want to look into the vent house being clogged, happens to a few people. its at the top of the TC
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Unread 01-03-2011, 06:57 PM   #10
straty1987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickblack View Post
Straty, re read ur post. DO NOT put wood into out put seal. Place seal in opening and using a mallet, place block of wood over the seal and tap it in until seal is flush with opening. You can remove the seal with a $5 seal puller or a vise grip. If you have a slide hammer u can use that too, but I wouldnt buy it unless u are building ur tool box. A cheap set of bearing race drivers are also good to tap seals in. I think Lisle tools has a set for $15 or so. Also, driveshaft is surprisingly light, U don't need a jack to support it.

i realized now that putting the wood in the TC make no sens now and that the DS are light(nerve held one before) lol and i bought a seal puller from autozoen since it was cheap and have to do a pinion seal in my front diff aswell, adding tools to my set, which is good and bad

you would not have any advice on the steps for a pinon seal on a dana 30?
i keep thinking i can do it but don't want to mess up the gears and kill my diffs. just don't have any local diff shop around me and don't trust the small shops since they will not back there work, if the diff goes bad they cant covering anything. so just been topping it off since i noticed the leak.
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Unread 01-03-2011, 08:55 PM   #11
nickblack
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If you have the tools and the FSM it is pretty straight forward. I rebuilt my Dana 30 diff last winter. You will need an inch/pound torque wrench. Something to hold the yoke when u tighten the pinion nut and a slide hammer makes it real easy to pull the seal out. When reassembling, I highly recommend using the new type of pinion nut that was issued by Jeep that has a flanged nut rather than a nut washer combo. This is addressed, with part #'s in TSB 030899. My old style nut backed off and ruined my diff, had to rebuild. if you choose not to order new style nut at least buy a new nut and washer. That "torque to turn pinion" measurement is crucial, don't mess that up or will get an axle whine and potential problems with diff if not accurate. Sounds like a lot but really not that bad. just go slow, follow manual EXACTLY and use the right tools. Also, not the most pleasant job to do without a lift, but doable. Ask more questions if needed.
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Unread 01-03-2011, 08:58 PM   #12
nickblack
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also, coat the outside of the new pinion seal with RTV silicone for added protction before installing.
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