trans fluid change - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 12 Old 08-21-2017, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
2cflyr
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trans fluid change

so my WJ had an issue over the weekend on a road trip- the idle control valve went, and when it's hot, it wants to idle at about 2500 rpm. i have the part and have that fix. the brakes also got cooked, but that's in the works as well.

the issue- i probably put a lot of extra wear on the transmission than usual, and i have no idea when the fluid was changed last. I've never done it, so its time

via a search, i found this: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...edure-4092793/

...which is very helpful. before i get to the questions, the basics: the color of the ATF is good still (red/brown-ish) and the trans is not leaking at all. the level is also good.

the question- should i change the filter as well? will that involve removing the pan?

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post #2 of 12 Old 08-21-2017, 06:40 PM
skipperau
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Ok, I'll give you my perspective on this issue, I'm sure others will have different opinions but here goes.

The ATF will remain a reddish colour until it gets VERY hot so colour isn't an accurate indicator of its condition, you can feel the ATF, by rubbing it between your fingers to judge its condition but that requires a fair bit of experience, its safest to say it needs changing. Considering how expensive transmissions are changing the fluid every 2 years is cheap insurance.
Yes, you will have to change the filters too, there are 2 in our 5-45RFE's (or 45RFE if you have an earlier model) a flat primary filter and a round cooler return filter, replace both.
The pan has to come off to do this job, and its messy unless your prepared so put something under the container that you are draining into to catch the spills.
Keeping the transmission well lubricated and cool is the key to is long life so change the fluid more often than the manual suggests, and keep it topped up to the full mark and you should be all good.


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post #3 of 12 Old 08-21-2017, 06:47 PM
skipperau
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Just a little add on there, it never hurts to put on an accessory transmission cooler, it keeps the transmission cooler obviously and if you live in a hot climate or work it hard that can be a lifesaver, especially added to frequent fluid changes.


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post #4 of 12 Old 08-22-2017, 07:43 PM
02WJJim
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Trans fluid change

To make the job easier next time-check out the Dorman replacement pans with a DRAIN PLUG. I changed the pans on both of my WJs (4.0) for about $20 bucks each after discount codes from Advanced Auto.
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post #5 of 12 Old 08-22-2017, 07:45 PM
skipperau
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02WJJim View Post
To make the job easier next time-check out the Dorman replacement pans with a DRAIN PLUG. I changed the pans on both of my WJs (4.0) for about $20 bucks each after discount codes from Advanced Auto.


Good point, I'm going to do the same to my 2 4.7l V8's as well during their next changes. :-)

Doug.


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post #6 of 12 Old 08-22-2017, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
2cflyr
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ok, so i guess the next question is does someone have a kit that's got both filters and a new seal as one easy-to-buy batch? im not seeing anything like that on rockauto. hmm.
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post #7 of 12 Old 08-22-2017, 08:50 PM
UncleWoody
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Try Amazon. I am ready to order my kit. It is listed as Fram FT1223A. This number applies to my 2003 GC Limited with the 4.7L engine. I do not know anything about the quality of these filters so I am open to other opinions.

Let the fun begin!!
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post #8 of 12 Old 08-22-2017, 11:34 PM
zephyr424
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If you have a drill and a 1/2 in bit you can add the b&m drain plug kit. Installed mine a few weeks ago with no leaks.
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post #9 of 12 Old 08-23-2017, 06:47 AM
Speedbeagle
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I just did my tranny last weekend (that didn't sound right, ugh). I picked up the filter kit from napa and I had to get the spin-on return filter separately but they had both in stock. I was a little worried about not getting OEM but after having done the change I like the kit I got and it went together clean and simple. Napa sells the ATP brand kit and it comes with a rubber gasket. Manual calls for just RTV gasket maker but this rubber gasket worked great and held all the bolts in the pan while I screwed it back on. A tip; try starting it the night before and get the pan cracked open or even completely off so you can let it drip and drain all night. That way when you go to put the pan back on you don't have fluid dripping on your clean pan and gasket. Also clean everything up best you can. That will help ensure no leaks. Tranny fluid has a way of sneaking back onto the flange when you turn your back on it for a second.

I don't usually like changing ATF but this transmission was actually a lot better than most I've done. Just don't skimp or rush and make sure to use ATF +4. The only frustrating thing is I keep checking the level and having to add more fluid. I'm on my 8th quart now. The problem is you can't just add a quart and check the level because the dipstick comes out covered until you drive it down the street a bit and the fluid goes down. Don't know if anyone else has had that experience or if it's just my stick. The stick also seems like it doesnt want to seat all the way down the tube. Weird.

Anyway good luck.
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post #10 of 12 Old 08-23-2017, 07:25 AM
leadsled jeep
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I strongly recommend synthetic tranny fluid. All lubrication fluids actually.

Good call on the drain plug. This makes it far easier NEXT time!

Chris
'02 Overland 190k+ miles. 2.5" lift w/springs. All Control Arms upgraded, dual Addco sways.
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post #11 of 12 Old 08-23-2017, 02:16 PM
HangryMachinist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2cflyr View Post
ok, so i guess the next question is does someone have a kit that's got both filters and a new seal as one easy-to-buy batch? im not seeing anything like that on rockauto. hmm.
WIX Filters - 58843
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post #12 of 12 Old 08-27-2017, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
2cflyr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HangryMachinist View Post
WIX Filters - 58843

perfect! thank you!
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