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Unread 08-17-2014, 10:30 PM   #1
shanehb
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2001 WJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Morganton, NC
Posts: 35
Testing EVAP Purge Solenoid?

The check engine light on my '01 limited 4.7 came on a few days ago and i connected my scan tool and found that it had thrown a P0442 (Evap Leak Monitor Small Leak Detected). I checked and replaced my fuel cap to see if it was the issue but i threw the code again a few days later. I visually inspected the lines under the hood and to the rear of the vehicle up until they go up to the top of the fuel tank but did not see anything that looked suspect. I did check the evap purge solenoid and found that after the engine starts and warms up i can hear the solenoid activate. it is repeatedly clicking. I wasnt sure if this is normal or if it should only be clicking every minute or so. I removed the lines and pulled a vacuum on it and it held. Any input on how to accurately test it would be awesome

Oh one other question, Is there an easy way to veiw the lines on top of the tank without the tank having to be dropped?


Last edited by shanehb; 08-17-2014 at 10:42 PM..
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Unread 08-17-2014, 11:05 PM   #2
lambert315
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2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 9
First to answer your question about the purge solenoid, yes it should click about 2 times a second. Place your hand on top of it while the car is running and you will feel it click. I am not sure how to properly test it to make sure it is actually opening and closing though, hopefully someone else can answer that.

I had a code 442 and 455 on my 03, the rubber lines for the EVAP system were cracked where they went from metal to rubber under the car by the rear drivers side wheel. This is a very common problem. Two of the lines had a plastic connector that joins two pieces of rubber hose around the area where they go inside (towards the center of the vehicle) of the gas tank supports/brackets. My hoses were also cracked there and the cracks would have been almost impossible to see without removing the entire section of hose. To do this I removed the rear drivers side wheel and the plastic/splash guard inside the wheel well. You will need to break the plastic tabs holding the guard in, dont worry they cost a few bucks at an auto store for new ones. You will also need to cut a few zip ties that are holding the hoses in order to remove them. When I removed the plastic splash guard I also noticed two more hoses were cracked, one going to the T valve on the pump and one to the center of the canister, they are very prone to cracking. I would start by replacing all three lines from where they transition from metal to rubber and then to the canister, it costs me $4.18 from Autozone for new rubber hoses. My hoses didn't look to bad while I was under the Jeep with a flashlight but once I pulled them off and looked at them in daylight they had a large amount of really small cracks. My check engine light has been off for a few weeks now. I hope this helps and good luck, its a simple job but it took me hours simply because I have giant hands and it was a ***** to squeeze them into all the tight spaces.
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Unread 08-18-2014, 05:25 PM   #3
shanehb
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2001 WJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Morganton, NC
Posts: 35
Thx for your reply. I called my mechanic today since he is the one who just installed the reman engine in it about a month ago and he said what ive read here in that the lines in the rear of the vehicle are prone to deteriorate at or near the tank and with its age he would not be surprised if they weren't the cause. He said that he would smoke the evap system and trace it down and give me half off on any labor charges since he had done the previous work. I figure in the end im going to come out cheaper than me throwing parts at it and having to buy an extension on my tag every 10 days till i can get it inspected and tagged.
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Unread 08-21-2014, 09:19 PM   #4
Hack
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2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Firestone, CO
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To tag on to this thread... Is there a way to test if the solenoid is functional? I have have the same code. Evap system holds vacuum. I don't hear or feel any clicking when I start it, but want to know if I can manually test it before throwing parts at it. Can I jump it with 12v like any other solenoid and see if it clicks?
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Unread 09-01-2014, 04:23 PM   #5
shanehb
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Join Date: Nov 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hack View Post
To tag on to this thread... Is there a way to test if the solenoid is functional? I have have the same code. Evap system holds vacuum. I don't hear or feel any clicking when I start it, but want to know if I can manually test it before throwing parts at it. Can I jump it with 12v like any other solenoid and see if it clicks?

Since i started this post my Jeep has been at my local mechanic over a small leak in the EVAP system which turned out to be the vacuum line going to the fuel filler tube. When dropping it off i had asked if you could test them and he said that you could and you would need a hand vac/pressure pump to do so. He said that most people blow through them but unless it was stuck open the test was useless. I was in a hurry to head out of there and leave for vacation so i didn't get much more detail then that but im assuming that you would pull a vacuum on the solenoid while it was still connected to the wiring harness and watch the gauge on your vac pump. Hope that helped..
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Unread 09-01-2014, 10:50 PM   #6
Hack
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2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Firestone, CO
Posts: 179
Interesting. I'll have to try that. Since this post I've felt the solenoid clicking intermittently. Not sure how often or consistent it's supposed to be. I'll have to get the code pulled again just to confirm it's still Evap related. I reset it after fixing my vacuum leaks, but it came back a day or two later.
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Unread 09-07-2014, 07:51 PM   #7
shanehb
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2001 WJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Morganton, NC
Posts: 35
To add to a follow up to this thread and to hopefully help someone in the future, After my #5 post i ended up having to have my fuel vapor leak detection pump replaced. My sensors have all completed several drive cycles and the check engine light has not came back on. The pattern i was getting with the check engine light throwing this code was that i would clear the EVAP small leak detected code and turn the C.E. light off. the next morning i could drive around all day and the light would stay off. They day after that the light would come back on and i would get the code again. My mechanic stated that this is the common pattern for the code to return after being cleared with this leak detection pump on its way out...
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