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post #1 of Old 04-05-2008, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
999desmosedici
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SoCal
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Taking out Removing Front Drive Shaft. Do I need to plug-in the holes?

As a remedy for the howling of the front diff on my 99 WJ (130K miles):

- If the front drive shaft is taken out, wouldn't there be a holes in the differential carrier & the transfer case that needs to be covered or plugged-in?

- Can I just duct-tape it -- I'm seriousl -- I don't see why it would cause any problem.

- Will I hurt the transfer case (NV247), if the 4WD was to kick-in, trying to spin the missing front-shaft? Mine is Quadra-Trac2, full-time automatic distribution to F & R, -- I have no way to set to 2WD rear-only.

Thanks.

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post #2 of Old 04-05-2008, 04:46 PM
GibsJeep
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You dont have to plug anything.

There shouldn't be a problem driving without the front DS with a 247 TC. I drove mine with the front DS disconnected on my WJ with the 247 TC for a month and there was no problems. Just dont put the pedal to the metal and get a new DS under there as soon as you can.
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post #3 of Old 04-05-2008, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
999desmosedici
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Thanks.

I suppose there must be some sort of couplers (or connections) on the both ends allowing you remove the front DS without opening the diff or TC.

So, there will be, perhaps, a U-joint sticking out of front diff -- no hole to plug-in? Similar thing for the TC?

Quote:
Just dont put the pedal to the metal and get a new DS under there as soon as you can.
I want to drive it without the front DS for a while (months+ ~ a year), so I can save for new axles (maybe IRO?) & decide how to fix-up my WJ.
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post #4 of Old 04-05-2008, 05:26 PM
GibsJeep
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Does your DS look like this?

OEM CV joint type 3 DS



If so, all you need to do is remove the 6 bolts from the flange on the diff. end and the 6 bolts from the flange on the TC end, then pull the DS out. The flanges will stay on and everything will still be sealed up.

Same thing with a u joint DS. Just remove the u bolts from both yokes and the yokes stay on leaving everything sealed up.
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post #5 of Old 07-26-2010, 06:29 PM
stizzynutz
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@Gibsjeep, thanks a bunch for the last post (if your still around!) I am having transfer case issues and had to remove the front ds and your explanation helped a lot better then my Haynes manual. Thanks again!
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post #6 of Old 09-21-2011, 11:41 PM
Jeepgirl2000
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removing front drive shaft from a 2000 jeep grand cherokee

Will it hurt for me to drive my jeep with the front drive shaft removed? My transfer case needs to be replaced, but need to save up some money before I can afford to replace it. So I had my nephew remove my front drive shaft so I can temporarily drive it while I save to get the transfer case replaced.
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post #7 of Old 09-22-2011, 04:12 AM
the88thpianoman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepgirl2000 View Post
Will it hurt for me to drive my jeep with the front drive shaft removed? My transfer case needs to be replaced, but need to save up some money before I can afford to replace it. So I had my nephew remove my front drive shaft so I can temporarily drive it while I save to get the transfer case replaced.
What's wrong with the transfer case that it needs to be replaced? Odds are you're being quoted WAY more money than you need to spend. Even a complete rebuild on either transfer case is far cheaper than a remanufactured replacement.

Also, which transfer case do you have? The shifter for the transfer case will be marked with either 4 hi, N, 4 lo or; 2wd, 4 part time, 4 full time, N, 4 lo.

If you have the one with the 2wd setting, there's no problem driving it without a front driveshaft indefinitely as long as you keep it in 2wd. If you have the all time 4 wheel drive, others know more about the specific mechanics than I do, but if the transfer case needs rebuilding anyway and the Jeep is driving fine without a front shaft in it, there's nothing else you can possibly hurt by not having it in there.

Fill out as much of your Jeep info as possible; it helps us help you by knowing the specifics of your vehicle. Anything you don't know, we can help you figure out what you have. Welcome to the forum.

2003 WJ in Jeep Green Metallic, 4.0/242/4.10's. 4" Teraflex springs w/ RE monotube shocks and IRO short arms, cheap intake w/ amsoil filter, 2.5" hi flow cat and back exhaust, lots of lights and other misc crap.

Check out my build thread here: Life lessons and budget build
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post #8 of Old 09-22-2011, 11:39 AM
Jeepgirl2000
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I believe it is the Nv247 but not sure just did a little research on the internet and that is what I found. It is a 2000 Jeep grand cherokee quatra trac II. When i drove the jeep and would just barely step on gas it makes a loud popping noise or when i get past 55 mph and it jerks really bad and makes a louder popping noise. On the 4 wheel drive lever in jeep i have 4 hi, netural and 4 low and thats it. I live in ND in the country, so the roads last winter were horribly bad, i messed up a lot of stuff cuz I got hung up quite a few times. I had to replace my tie rod ends and the bar they use to allign I also had to replace cuz it was all messed up. the vibration went away after I replaced the tie rod ends, but the loud popping noise was still there.
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post #9 of Old 09-22-2011, 12:34 PM
alifted4x4
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I have also got a 2000 WJ with a 247- I have had my front driveshaft for almost a year. It won't hurt a thing.

2000 WJ 6 1/2" lift,IRO Coils, IRO Front ADJ Long Arms, Clayton Rear Long Arms, Bilstein 5100 Shocks, JKS Track bar, JKS Bar Pins, K & N FIPK, 265/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers, 1.5" Wheel Spacers, Addco Rear Sway Bar, IRO Rear Sway Bar Links, Flowmaster 40,2002 Cluster to be continued.....
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post #10 of Old 09-22-2011, 01:15 PM
Jeepgirl2000
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Thank you so much for your help, I didn't want to just drive it without it, without knowing that it might hurt something else. I already need around $1300 for a new transfer case and don't wanna have to save for something else. much appreciated
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post #11 of Old 09-22-2011, 01:23 PM
alifted4x4
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Anytime!

2000 WJ 6 1/2" lift,IRO Coils, IRO Front ADJ Long Arms, Clayton Rear Long Arms, Bilstein 5100 Shocks, JKS Track bar, JKS Bar Pins, K & N FIPK, 265/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers, 1.5" Wheel Spacers, Addco Rear Sway Bar, IRO Rear Sway Bar Links, Flowmaster 40,2002 Cluster to be continued.....
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post #12 of Old 09-22-2011, 03:10 PM
doomi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepgirl2000 View Post
I believe it is the Nv247 but not sure just did a little research on the internet and that is what I found. It is a 2000 Jeep grand cherokee quatra trac II. When i drove the jeep and would just barely step on gas it makes a loud popping noise or when i get past 55 mph and it jerks really bad and makes a louder popping noise. On the 4 wheel drive lever in jeep i have 4 hi, netural and 4 low and thats it. I live in ND in the country, so the roads last winter were horribly bad, i messed up a lot of stuff cuz I got hung up quite a few times. I had to replace my tie rod ends and the bar they use to allign I also had to replace cuz it was all messed up. the vibration went away after I replaced the tie rod ends, but the loud popping noise was still there.
Just remember without your front DS the Jeep will be rear wheel drive... may be worth replacing or rebuilding before it gets too bad out.
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post #13 of Old 09-22-2011, 11:10 PM
the88thpianoman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepgirl2000 View Post
Thank you so much for your help, I didn't want to just drive it without it, without knowing that it might hurt something else. I already need around $1300 for a new transfer case and don't wanna have to save for something else. much appreciated
There is no way that cost is justified. Even a complete rebuild of the transfer case should only run about half that. The part inside the case that fails is the progressive coupler, it is unlikely that there is anything else damaged. Maybe a stretched chain. You're being taken for a serious ride.

2003 WJ in Jeep Green Metallic, 4.0/242/4.10's. 4" Teraflex springs w/ RE monotube shocks and IRO short arms, cheap intake w/ amsoil filter, 2.5" hi flow cat and back exhaust, lots of lights and other misc crap.

Check out my build thread here: Life lessons and budget build
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post #14 of Old 09-23-2011, 08:32 AM
WiCkeDuDe
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post #15 of Old 12-20-2011, 12:53 AM
paulwaller
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I bought a t-case with 70k miles for 100 bucks on Craigslist....i would laugh at whoever said 1300. Just sayin....
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