Switch From Quadra Trac 2 to Quadra Drive. A few questions - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 29 Old 03-20-2017, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
jfclk33
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Switch From Quadra Trac 2 to Quadra Drive. A few questions

First, I just want to say hi. I'm a fairly new user here and love this forum. I've gotten a lot of good info here already. I own a 2001 GCL with the 4.7 and it has 116k miles.

Like the title says, I want to make the switch to Quadra Drive since it seems to be the better of the two drive systems, and I haven't been very impressed with Quadra Trac 2 in the snow. Now I do realize that my tires could play a part in that too, but I still think I'd rather have Quadra Drive.

I've done a lot of searching and reading, and from what I can tell, all I have to do is switch both my front and rear axles with axles from a Quadra Drive WJ and I should be good to go.

First of all, I'd like your opinions on which system is better of the two, and also am I correct in thinking that I only have to switch axles?

Second, what is a fair price to pay for both axles if I find some at a junkyard?

That lead me to my last question. If I find a WJ with Quadra Drive at the junkyard, what should I look at to see if they are good? I would pull the diff cover and make sure there are no metal shavings in there, and I'll check the CV axles for wear, but I'm not sure what to check for beyond that.

Thanks in advance for your help.


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post #2 of 29 Old 03-20-2017, 10:12 PM
snobrdrkid07
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To get Quadra-Drive you would have swap both front and rear axles. (Easier in my opinion that swapping the guts and doing a gear setups).

- I'd expect to pay between $500 to $1000 for both front and rear. Those are prices around me, your results may vary.

- I believe if you spin one tire, it should spin for a few revolutions and then build pressure in the diff to activate the clutch packs and become difficult to turn.

- Quadra-Drive axles with the Vari-Lok Diffs are nice, they work(ed) great when they were new. Mine have been taken well care of, proper fluid and regularly changed, and they barely work anymore. (150,000 miles). Again your results may vary, some people's last longer, others shorter.

- IMHO, if I had your open axles, I would put "lunch box" lockers in. Cheaper, more effective, and they actually lock up. I think you would spend about $600 and could lock the front and rear and can keep your current axles.

~ 04 WJ Overland 4.7 HO | Graphite Metallic | Quadra-Drive | Vari-Locks | Bilstein 4600ís | ADDCO Sway Bar | Powerstick Exhaust | RB1 | SuperChips Tuned | Much More to Come ~

~ 04 WJ Laredo 4.0 | Selec-Trac | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Silent Armor 245/70/17's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon HU | Alpine Speakers, Amps, and Subs | Bilstein SS | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars | Lots of Cool Stuff ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | OME HD Springs | Bilstein 5100ís | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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post #3 of 29 Old 03-20-2017, 10:14 PM
azzkicker
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Quadra drive 2 is like having air lockers every time you wish you had them, and never wishing you had turned it off to steer or handle some off camber.

Despite what I've heard claimed by QTII fans, even when they point me to a youtube video that "proves" it works just as good, I can see the QT doing a lot of spinning before it caught, and the QD2 doesn't. I have it on my WK, and it's amazing. I wish I had it on my F150.

It uses a number of clues to decide when to be at 100% lock, and when to be somewhere between that and zero lock. In high range, it's watching throttle position, wheel speed sensors, steering angle, and it's remembering what you just did. In low range, it locks up all the time, but it still seems to make some relief when you turn the wheels. In 4 high, when I inch one tire up a gravel pile (on my buddy's gravel driveway), it will spin a tiny amount as the rig teeters onto 2 wheels, but once it realizes what's going on, I can creep up and the wheels that are off the ground turn exactly with the ones on the ground. When I pull forward and back onto it again, it didn't need to spin before locking up. Then, I can crank the wheel hard right and pull off the pile without any bucking or pressure like a locked front end would do.

In 4 low, there was just no spinning at all. Inch by inch, every tire turns together. It does bind some when you crank the wheel hard coming off, but not as bad as I expected.

On icy roads, when I first bought it, it had crappy street tires, and was running circles around my F150 with snow tires, and with none of the clunking and binding as I go from ice to pavement to ice. The jeep is awesome. And, you can gun it on right turns to fly out into traffic completely smooth.

I think you'll love it. I don't know what parts you need, as my rig is a WK and it came with it. Hopefully, somebody can clue you in. On a WK, I'm told it's easiest to put the lock solenoids on a dash switch, and let the rig drive as a QT2 most of the time. That wouldn't be nearly as fun, but if you have to do bootleg ECM programming or something, maybe you'd consider it.

Just for reference, I saw somebody doing that upgrade on a WK and they got both axles, and I think some computer brain under the back seat, for $500.

07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #4 of 29 Old 03-21-2017, 04:32 AM
alfaitalia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azzkicker View Post
Quadra drive 2 is like having air lockers every time you wish you had them, and never wishing you had turned it off to steer or handle some off camber.

Despite what I've heard claimed by QTII fans, even when they point me to a youtube video that "proves" it works just as good, I can see the QT doing a lot of spinning before it caught, and the QD2 doesn't. I have it on my WK, and it's amazing. I wish I had it on my F150.

It uses a number of clues to decide when to be at 100% lock, and when to be somewhere between that and zero lock. In high range, it's watching throttle position, wheel speed sensors, steering angle, and it's remembering what you just did. In low range, it locks up all the time, but it still seems to make some relief when you turn the wheels. In 4 high, when I inch one tire up a gravel pile (on my buddy's gravel driveway), it will spin a tiny amount as the rig teeters onto 2 wheels, but once it realizes what's going on, I can creep up and the wheels that are off the ground turn exactly with the ones on the ground. When I pull forward and back onto it again, it didn't need to spin before locking up. Then, I can crank the wheel hard right and pull off the pile without any bucking or pressure like a locked front end would do.

In 4 low, there was just no spinning at all. Inch by inch, every tire turns together. It does bind some when you crank the wheel hard coming off, but not as bad as I expected.

On icy roads, when I first bought it, it had crappy street tires, and was running circles around my F150 with snow tires, and with none of the clunking and binding as I go from ice to pavement to ice. The jeep is awesome. And, you can gun it on right turns to fly out into traffic completely smooth.

I think you'll love it. I don't know what parts you need, as my rig is a WK and it came with it. Hopefully, somebody can clue you in. On a WK, I'm told it's easiest to put the lock solenoids on a dash switch, and let the rig drive as a QT2 most of the time. That wouldn't be nearly as fun, but if you have to do bootleg ECM programming or something, maybe you'd consider it.

Just for reference, I saw somebody doing that upgrade on a WK and they got both axles, and I think some computer brain under the back seat, for $500.
Just for reference this is WJ forum.....no QD2....just good old mechanical ( no sensors or ecu) QD. WK QD2 cannot be retro fitted to a WJ
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If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got yourself an electrical problem!
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post #5 of 29 Old 03-21-2017, 05:07 AM
weaselsmopar
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IMHO I would just spend a little extra money and get the Tru trac I know the front is about 450 and then I have still to find one for the rear using a D44HD. The tru Trac will not wear out and there is a chance that if you get a junk yard axles that they might be ragged out then you have just spend XXX dollars for junk. Since variloks can not be rebuilt. But that's just my 2cents.
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post #6 of 29 Old 03-21-2017, 06:09 AM
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I have one with QD and one with QT2. I'd rather have the QD on both for boat ramps but when my QD finally fails, I'm going tru-trak for both.
hopefully I still have a few years on the QD.
When it does fail, all I'm going to find are 12+ year old axles from a ragged out QD in boneyards ...when I could have a new Tru-trak.

'04 Freedom Edition HO & '04 Overland HO (previous '00 Laredo 4.7)
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post #7 of 29 Old 03-21-2017, 07:04 AM
alfaitalia
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Of course if you fit a proper locker or two then the axles/diff you have now are the right ones. Lockers cant usually be fitted to QDrive axle diffs. That's the way I would go....as long as you can put up with the odd bit of clicking on sharp turns!!!

If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got yourself an electrical problem!
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post #8 of 29 Old 03-21-2017, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
jfclk33
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Thanks everyone for the info. This is exactly what I was looking for.

Like some of you said, my main concern is finding something decent at a junkyard, but that's always going to be like rolling the dice and hoping for the best.

I think I will definitely look into the lockers and I don't mind the odd clicking noises as long as I know that no damage is being done, Lol. I already pay way too much attention to the temp gauge because of the possible head gasket issues with this engine. As far as lockers go, any brand recommendations?
@Double E
Out of curiosity, do you actually prefer the QT (except for the boat ramp), or is it more a matter of convenience with new parts availability?

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post #9 of 29 Old 03-21-2017, 08:11 AM
oakleymx4
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I don't think you want lockers for street driving in the snow from what I've read.
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post #10 of 29 Old 03-21-2017, 10:16 AM
86cj74.2L
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Funny on QD axle prices. I practically had to give my rear QD axle away for 75 dollars. I sold the front for 150. I had to keep lowering prices until I got phone calls.
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post #11 of 29 Old 03-21-2017, 10:59 AM
IOwnCalculus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snobrdrkid07 View Post
- Quadra-Drive axles with the Vari-Lok Diffs are nice, they work(ed) great when they were new. Mine have been taken well care of, proper fluid and regularly changed, and they barely work anymore. (150,000 miles). Again your results may vary, some people's last longer, others shorter.

- IMHO, if I had your open axles, I would put "lunch box" lockers in. Cheaper, more effective, and they actually lock up. I think you would spend about $600 and could lock the front and rear and can keep your current axles.
Completely agreed with both of these sentiments. My QD axles were maintained from new, and the first owner probably never actually made them do any real work. They've become noticeably less effective over the past couple years.

If I had a non-QD WJ, I wouldn't bother trying to swap QD axles on unless you could get your hands on a *new* set. Of course, if new-old-stock QD axles existed, they'd probably cost more than actual lockers.
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post #12 of 29 Old 03-21-2017, 11:42 AM
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I do not think they make a TruTrac for a 44a

~ 04 WJ Overland 4.7 HO | Graphite Metallic | Quadra-Drive | Vari-Locks | Bilstein 4600ís | ADDCO Sway Bar | Powerstick Exhaust | RB1 | SuperChips Tuned | Much More to Come ~

~ 04 WJ Laredo 4.0 | Selec-Trac | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Silent Armor 245/70/17's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon HU | Alpine Speakers, Amps, and Subs | Bilstein SS | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars | Lots of Cool Stuff ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | OME HD Springs | Bilstein 5100ís | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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post #13 of 29 Old 03-21-2017, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfclk33 View Post
Thanks everyone for the info. This is exactly what I was looking for.

Like some of you said, my main concern is finding something decent at a junkyard, but that's always going to be like rolling the dice and hoping for the best.

I think I will definitely look into the lockers and I don't mind the odd clicking noises as long as I know that no damage is being done, Lol. I already pay way too much attention to the temp gauge because of the possible head gasket issues with this engine. As far as lockers go, any brand recommendations?
@Double E
Out of curiosity, do you actually prefer the QT (except for the boat ramp), or is it more a matter of convenience with new parts availability?

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Great question... Correct. the wife drives the QD on a daily basis but I use that QD for the boat ramps. She gets that because well...she's really pretty and worries about other stuff.


I get the QT on a daily basis as I'm better able to manage it's driving characteristics and shortcomings.


Here is something that I learned recently... My QT actually just has a vari-lock in the front courtesy of the PO. When it fails, I'll make a change and probably lock just the front as I don't do any hard core off-road stuff. The dealer told me that when they completed the diff fluid service on it. I did not see it for myself though. (I have reasons to doubt their knowledge.)


I probably should have looked but it was already buttoned up. They added the FM to it too. I also just had them put on a diff cover I brought them with a drain so I should not need to look in there for a LONG time. I might just put the front end up in the air and spin the fronts to see what happens....
In acceleration, I am seldom aware of breaking the front tires loose but either one of the rear tires will break traction easily.


When the QD fails, apparently I'll need to swap out (at least the front) axles as I did not know I could not put a locker of some sort back in there now other than the Vari-lock.

'04 Freedom Edition HO & '04 Overland HO (previous '00 Laredo 4.7)
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post #14 of 29 Old 03-21-2017, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snobrdrkid07 View Post
I do not think they make a TruTrac for a 44a
This is true. I ran a True Trac up front and a VariLok/QD in the rear D44A of my WJ. They both performed similarly and it was a great setup. I would take the true trac over the vari lok though because it's mechanical, doesn't wear out, and doesn't require any friction modifier. Also, I believe that it has a quicker, and slightly tighter engagement than the vari lok.
This was on my 4.7L Laredo WJ. True Trac went in front no problem (with 4.10 gears upgrade), but the vari lok in the rear was expensive: New QD axle shafts, vari lok diff, gears, install kit plus labor around $2K.

2010 WK Laredo 5.7L, 2004 WJ 4.7L (totaled), 1959 CJ-5, 1996 XJ (sold), 1989 YJ Wrangler 4.2L (Sold)
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post #15 of 29 Old 03-21-2017, 01:49 PM
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Don't put a lunchbox locker, or any kind of auto locker in the front axle with a QT or QD Transfer case if you drive on the street. It will annoy the crap out of you and could even be dangerous.

Get a limited slip (varilok, trutrac, etc) or a selectable locker for the front.

The rear is a different story, the auto locker would be fine there. Other than that it's either a varilok or an ARB for the 44HD.

2003 WJ LTD 4.7, 242HD, PR44+ARB+RCV & D44HD+varilok+BTF 4.56, 7" RC LA (Clayton coils + pucks), Bilstein 5165, OBA, Lizardskined & Monstalined inside.
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