Suspension and general info questions - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 22 Old 11-11-2013, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
BamaJeepman21
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Suspension and general info questions

I've been thinking of trying to find a WJ lately and after reading the forum for awhile, I have a couple questions to ask.

I'm looking to keep it nice and simple so around 4" of lift and 285's.

So with that comes the question of exactly what is the best riding, top quality stuff out there? Not many TJ things carry over to the WJ or so it seems. Which parts could carry over?

Clayton, OME, Iron Rock, BDS, seem to be some solid choices around here. I would like to have 4.5" up front and 3.5-4" in the back. But obviously I'd like to be as low as possible while being able to fit 33's with minimal trimming. Now when it comes to control arms, man do ya'll have terrible choices for joints. I'm thinking of taken some IRO's and swapping in some MetalCloak joints for those. I also hear IRO can make you custom arms so more than likely I'll go double adjustable with the MC joints. Overall it seem WJ's have pretty decent "kits" compared to TJ's but I'd still much rather piece together my own.

Now on to the actual Jeep...

I'm leaning toward a Limited for the 4.7 and transmission. Are there any major things wrong with it or just a little rocker issue here and there? I'm hoping to drive something that will be relatively problem free for 250k+ miles.Thanks fellas.


-Jack
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post #2 of 22 Old 11-11-2013, 06:00 PM
PackLifeNC
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I would honestly get the I6 4.0. My brother has one and hasn't had a minutes trouble with it. I have the 4.7 and have had a lot of trouble with it. Not to say that a 4.7 isn't a good motor, but if I did it over again i'd go with the I6.

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post #3 of 22 Old 11-11-2013, 06:15 PM
Pedro7
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Get the 4.7. You'd be upset with the 4.0. Both are very reliable engines, the v8 has WAY more power. Easy choice IMO.

As far as lifts it depends on how much you want to spend. Clayton is usually the best way to go for long arms, but is expensive. If you want to stay short arms IRO is a great way to go. They use clevite rubber bushings so they last forever, but aren't flex joints.

Stay away from rough country, unless you want to change out the bad joints and trackbar right away.

Bds makes a good kit, but for the price just go with an IRO 4"

KCCO
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post #4 of 22 Old 11-11-2013, 06:21 PM
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Ditto on the 4.7. I test drove a bunch before I bought mine. I wanted more power than my 4.0 TJ so I went with the V8, no comparison. I recently just drove a buddy's 4.0 WJ. Its a slug compared to mine. Spend the extra money and make sure to get one that was taken care of, you won't regret it. The last thing you want is a V8 thats been abused. You'll more than likely run into issues sooner than the 4.0 but its what you're giving up for more power I guess. You have to weigh your priorities. Look for one with a tow package too.
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post #5 of 22 Old 11-11-2013, 06:35 PM
StrokedWJ
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Several of my local builder friends have started using these Barnes4wd Enduro-joints for all their control arms. They're saying its the best joint they've seen/used. http://www.barnes4wd.com/Enduro-Joints_p_283.html

2000 WJ 4.5L - Stroked, Locked, & Long-Armed
Looking for 6" WJ springs!
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post #6 of 22 Old 11-11-2013, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
BamaJeepman21
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Thanks guys.

Definitly will be looking for a 4.7 since I want easy power.

Suspension will be mixed and matched. The only joints worth running other than JJ's or the Duroflex are clevites. I'd much rather just build some custom arms with the Duroflex unless some TJ arms will carry over.

-Jack
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post #7 of 22 Old 12-10-2013, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
BamaJeepman21
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No WJ yet...still working on it.

But I've decided to go with Claytons 4.5" LA lift. Getting rid of the clevite bushings/ball joint and wishbone out back is reason alone to upgrade to the 4link. I still want to have 4" coils in the rear.

Does anyone know why Clayton doesn't use JJ's on the front lower axle end and on the rear lower axle end? I plan on replacing the JJ's with 2.5" Duroflex bushings anyway, I'm just curious if maybe those joints are 2".

-Jack
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post #8 of 22 Old 12-10-2013, 02:35 PM
skain8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaJeepman21 View Post
Does anyone know why Clayton doesn't use JJ's on the front lower axle end and on the rear lower axle end? I plan on replacing the JJ's with 2.5" Duroflex bushings anyway, I'm just curious if maybe those joints are 2".
They do it for road "noise" transmitted at the axle. Meh.

However, it likely also serves to alleviate binding inherent in the radius arm design.

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's
Half-Ton axle swap guide
231HD build info

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post #9 of 22 Old 12-10-2013, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
BamaJeepman21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skain8 View Post
They do it for road "noise" transmitted at the axle. Meh.
That's about the worst excuse I've ever heard. So are they OEM clevites? I'm guessing 2" so I could fit a 2" Duroflex in there?

-Jack
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post #10 of 22 Old 12-10-2013, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaJeepman21 View Post
That's about the worst excuse I've ever heard. So are they OEM clevites? I'm guessing 2" so I could fit a 2" Duroflex in there?
The lower joint is a 2.5" Currie Johnny Joint. I'm not 100% positive if the axle end lower joint is the same size.

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's
Half-Ton axle swap guide
231HD build info

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post #11 of 22 Old 12-10-2013, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
BamaJeepman21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skain8 View Post
The lower joint is a 2.5" Currie Johnny Joint.
I know. I'm wondering what size the clevites are.

-Jack
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post #12 of 22 Old 12-10-2013, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
BamaJeepman21
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I found something on Claytons site that leads me to believe they are 2", so easily replaceable.

So here's what I'm thinking...

Clayton 4.5" LA lift- $2,589
Clayton JJ trackbar- $195
IRO 4" rear springs- $155
MC Duroflex 2.5" and 2" joint- $406

Total- $3,345

Now to sell some stuff...

Clayton rear springs- $159
Clayton trackbar- $149
JJ's- $560

Brings the total down to $2,477

After all that I should have a very nice riding Jeep. Add some 1.25" spacers and some 285/75/16's and I'll be good to go. Anybody have any opinions?

-Jack
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post #13 of 22 Old 12-10-2013, 08:38 PM
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I say look for a 4.7 H.O. while you are at it. A regear would be nice too. Then you will want sliders and all kinds of other stuff.. I'm sure you know all about the Jeep bug after the TJ lol

2003 WJ♦Inferno Red Limited(4.7 H.O., Vari-Lok axles)♦OME HD/BILLY 5100S♦IRO t-case skid, adj. tb, sway links♦Moog SS♦Factory tow package w/harness & tow hooks♦ Amp/12 sub box♦new bad b**ch passenger♦1993 XJ country♦lift/muds/winchbumper-sold♦build thread instead of long A$$ sig soon...
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post #14 of 22 Old 12-10-2013, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
BamaJeepman21
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Originally Posted by PowderHound View Post
I say look for a 4.7 H.O. while you are at it. A regear would be nice too. Then you will want sliders and all kinds of other stuff.. I'm sure you know all about the Jeep bug after the TJ lol
I'm trying to keep this one less expensive.

Most of my work will be in suspension. After that I only see myself getting some sliders, belly pan, and some new headlights. A regear would probably be low on the list due to cost, unless the Jeep is severely undergeared with 33's.

The most complicated I can see it getting is if I really want a front locker and I'd probably swap out for a 242hd case then. I'm hoping to find one with a 242 already.

-Jack
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post #15 of 22 Old 12-10-2013, 08:50 PM
PowderHound
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And x2 on the tow package. It took me weeks to get the hitch harness and bezel. Then you have to fight the rear bumper clips, it's hard to get the rear bumper off. I thought I was going to rip it.

2003 WJ♦Inferno Red Limited(4.7 H.O., Vari-Lok axles)♦OME HD/BILLY 5100S♦IRO t-case skid, adj. tb, sway links♦Moog SS♦Factory tow package w/harness & tow hooks♦ Amp/12 sub box♦new bad b**ch passenger♦1993 XJ country♦lift/muds/winchbumper-sold♦build thread instead of long A$$ sig soon...
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