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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > WJ Grand Cherokee Forum > Stroker build

Rockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits ZONE 4.25" combo lift for TJ available at Rockridge4wG2 Disc Brake Conversion Kit for Jeep Wrangler YJ TJ LJ Ch

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Unread 01-02-2013, 08:54 AM   #16
Knoxes
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2004 WJ 
 
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Also, with the valve cover off, I can see some good lifting points with the head bolts.

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Unread 01-02-2013, 09:00 AM   #17
240impala
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knoxes

Monday's progress - discharged the a/c, pulled the condenser, removed about another dozen connectors, removed the valve cover and got 3 of 4 exhaust pipe-to-manifold bolts out. Having real problems with the second bolt on the front pipe. Right now, it's soaking in a half gallon of PB Blaster. I'll take another shot at it this weekend. I think I need an offset box wrench to get under the flange. I couldn't get a good grip on it with a socket.

240 - I'm not sure, but I hope the machine shop that I'm using will do it. I'll let you know. It's about 30 minutes north of Charlotte.
Yeah let me know. I've got most everything just need to get my compression ratio right
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[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/wj-slow-but-getting-there-1153271/[/url]

IRO 6.5" lift, IRO Front long arms, rear iro adj upper a arm and adj rear lower, custom 4x4 fab front bumper, rough country winch, 15" crager soft 8's, procomp 35-12.50 tire, fenders trimmed KOR light bar, malone roof rack
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Unread 01-07-2013, 08:16 AM   #18
Knoxes
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Furstration setting in. I got the exhaust manifold loose from the pipe finally. Pulled the rear 02 sensor, pulled the wiring harness for the injectors, pulled the TB. Felt like I was close to hooking up the lift and jerking this thing out. The FSM isn't really clear on the bellhousing to block connection - I pulled a couple of bolts on each side and then ran into clearance issues on the driver's side - can't back the bolt out because one of the transmission cooler lines is in the way. And I think there are two more bolts on top of the bellhousing that I couldn't possibly access without removing the head (which includes both manifolds). I'm not positive about that, so if anyone can confirm, I'd appreciate it.

240 - I'm still weeks away from having the dishing conversation with the shop. Don't know if that fits your timeframe...
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Unread 01-07-2013, 08:32 AM   #19
240impala
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Me to I'm still saving my penny's. I'm going to build this thing right
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[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/wj-slow-but-getting-there-1153271/[/url]

IRO 6.5" lift, IRO Front long arms, rear iro adj upper a arm and adj rear lower, custom 4x4 fab front bumper, rough country winch, 15" crager soft 8's, procomp 35-12.50 tire, fenders trimmed KOR light bar, malone roof rack
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Unread 01-07-2013, 02:27 PM   #20
4Doors
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
...and crash protection requirements that merited the switch to V6s.
What would a V6 have to do with crash protection, shorter motor means more space for a crumple zone?
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Unread 01-07-2013, 04:46 PM   #21
billzcat1
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More crumple and lower hood lines for pedestrian impact protection.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 09:12 AM   #22
Knoxes
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I'm told, not for certain, that the top two bolts on the bellhousing are torx heads. Can anybody confirm this?
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Unread 01-08-2013, 12:00 PM   #23
soulsurvives
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To get to the top 2 bolts of the bellhousing you must unbolt the crossmember....take out the driveshaft and tilt the motor/tranny at an angle.....and the bolts are not torx bolts.....
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Unread 01-14-2013, 08:18 AM   #24
Knoxes
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Ok, it's finally out!



It wasn't a piece of cake, but not impossible either. The most difficult things to remove were the exhaust flange bolt, the driver's side bellhousing bolt (you can't back this all the way out without hitting a transmission line and the transfer case shift cable) and the top two bellhousing bolts. I left the intake, exhaust manifold and alternator on. Took the a/c compressor off to access the engine mount bolts. All in, this was probably about 16-18 hours of real work. I'm slow, but methodical.

Next step is getting it on the engine stand - didn't have the right length bolts to mount it.



It was odd to find that really shiny freeze plug under the flywheel - especially with the one just below it that wasn't quite as shiny. I've had this car for 7 years, I think. Bought it with 28K on the odometer. And I know that *I* didn't put that in.

Also discovered, to no surprise at all, an oil trail from the back of the valve cover, which was probably my "rear main seal leaking".

One more, for the background, really

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Unread 02-04-2013, 08:27 AM   #25
Knoxes
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OK, after taking a 2 week break, we got back at it on Saturday. Got the motor on the stand and started to break it down. Finally pulled out the air tools, which makes things so much easier. These are the first two cylinders,

the next two,

and the last two:

So I think everything looks pretty good. The valves look ok, too, I think.



I did this with my gorilla forearms:

Drove Pop's new ride:

And then finally made a big mistake and dumped the motor on to the floor, where it stays for now:

We were lucky that neither of us were hurt when it fell over. The front leg of that stand has a caster that wasn't installed properly. So we were trying to pry the leg up enough to get the caster tightened down. It just flipped over very quickly and hit the deck. Hopefully it didn't hurt anything internal. The crank, cam and pistons are still in there. I guess I won't know for sure until it goes to the machine shop.
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Unread 02-04-2013, 08:35 AM   #26
Knoxes
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Heh, just noticed the spark plug misdirection in 5 outta 6 cylinders.
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Unread 02-06-2013, 10:18 PM   #27
xtremzj
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2 of those valves are pretty burnt...
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Unread 02-25-2013, 08:26 AM   #28
Knoxes
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Finally got back down there to finish up the breakdown. It's completely apart now and ready for the machine shop. As far as I can tell, everything looks like it's in good shape. The only thing I've found so far that could have caused the poor performance was the intake.

These look pretty gummed up, I think. And all six looked like that.

Anyway, got to one machine shop, which was less than impressive. The owner seemed primarily concerned with the cam lift. Not sure where he was going with that. He also couldn't understand why I'd need to dish the pistons. And he said his turn-around time was "several weeks", which in machine shop lingo probably means 2014. So, still looking for a machine shop.
Also at the point where I really need to make a commitment to a recipe and move forward with that. But I don't really have a good handle on the maths, so I can see a problem explaining to the machine shops what I have in mind. I understand the basics, but really need to better understand how to find the right CR, DCR and quench, and how those are going to affect the driveablity.
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Unread 02-25-2013, 01:00 PM   #29
ssands85
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You will probably find everything your looking for and more... you might have to dig for a while but, I think all the answers to your questions will be there. Even the ones you haven't asked yet.

Might even have someone on there who could direct ya to a good machine shop
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Unread 02-25-2013, 04:50 PM   #30
240impala
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You can increase the volume of the head instead of dishing. The way I'm leaning more is doing the Keith black pistons on 4.0 rods with the 258 crank.
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"Don't Do It"


[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/wj-slow-but-getting-there-1153271/[/url]

IRO 6.5" lift, IRO Front long arms, rear iro adj upper a arm and adj rear lower, custom 4x4 fab front bumper, rough country winch, 15" crager soft 8's, procomp 35-12.50 tire, fenders trimmed KOR light bar, malone roof rack
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