Sticking caliper causing a shimmy?? - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 41 Old 11-09-2013, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
Jaketit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndhandWJman
At least you are being methodical about finding the issue(s) instead of replacing everything in sight. In regards to the track bar angle, it looks a bit off. The drag link and track bar should both have the same angle on them. When they have different angles, it will induce bump steer and sometimes the dreaded DW. I fought for so long with similar issues on a Dodge Ram with the factory Off Road package, I swore I'd never own another chyrsler product again. Here I am, 5 years later with a Jerp that uses the same darn suspension design.....
The new heim joint in the track bar tightened it up pretty good but it still has a shimmy at 50. I rotated the tires around again lastnight to see if I could get it any better but I think my tires are shot. These MTRs didn't wear very well IMO. but next up is the steering box along with a new pitman arm, see if I can get this angle where it is supposed to be. Thanks for the comments.

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post #32 of 41 Old 11-09-2013, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaketit View Post

The new heim joint in the track bar tightened it up pretty good but it still has a shimmy at 50. I rotated the tires around again lastnight to see if I could get it any better but I think my tires are shot. These MTRs didn't wear very well IMO. but next up is the steering box along with a new pitman arm, see if I can get this angle where it is supposed to be. Thanks for the comments.
If you have an adjustable track bar you don't need a drop pitman. It might actually make things worse.

If you are still having a shimmy all the time and bumps dont seem to set it off I would think it is either your tires or your rotors.

Pull the rotors and take them in to have them resurfaced. They will be able to tell you then if that is your issue. If your tires are shot you might just want to replace them.

Just my two cents..
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post #33 of 41 Old 11-10-2013, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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I started with the RC track bar bracket and my stock track bar. I also put in the drop pitman arm because of lack of experience on the subject when I did my lift. But anyways a local truck shop ended up welding the bracket in before I got an adjustable track bar so I think that is why my angles are off. So when I do my steering box I've heard it's easier just to put on a new pitman arm instead of trying to get the old one off. So I'm thinking I'll put a stock size arm back on. And that will have me more dialed in angle wise. I tightened the track bar one more time last night real good and rotated the tires around one more time to get the most out of whack tire on the rear. Crossed my fingers and went for a ride today and she is finally riding a lot better. It's been riding like **** for the last month or so. Really bums me out. But it seems like I can start to see the light on the end of the tunnel. And as for the tires I might have about 20,000 on them and the still have some tread so I'm gonna ride em out. There is a 5 set of the 2013 rubi wheels with 5k on BFG MUDs for sale at the shop for 1200. I'm thinking those will be next too. Jesus it never ends.
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post #34 of 41 Old 11-11-2013, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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Wow this is never ending!! So today I went for a good ride and it happened again. I pulled up to do a job and the caliper was stuck and it was hot. So I bought new calipers today and now I'm having a hell of a time bleeding them. Cool no brakes.
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post #35 of 41 Old 11-12-2013, 08:23 AM
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Did you put them on the correct side - bleeder valve up?

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post #36 of 41 Old 11-12-2013, 01:28 PM
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Just tossing this out there. Have you checked your brake lines? My passenger caliper was hanging up intermittently and the line was crapped out inside.
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post #37 of 41 Old 11-12-2013, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisHager
Did you put them on the correct side - bleeder valve up?
Yes sir.
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post #38 of 41 Old 11-12-2013, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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So today was a new day. I think everything is solved. FOR NOW anyways. I ended up changing out both calipers and the drivers side caliper bracket because I couldn't get one of the sliders out no matter how much heat I put on it. The bleeding process went a lot better today with a buddy helping me instead of my wife last night. After the 170 bucks spent on the brakes and the 30 bucks for a new heim joint on the track bar and the numerous hours over the past few weeks drinking beers in the garage I think I finally licked it. So as the title states will a sticking caliper cause a shimmy or death wobble. I believe so. Thanks for everyone's help and I'll be waiting for the next problem .
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post #39 of 41 Old 11-12-2013, 11:02 PM
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post #40 of 41 Old 06-25-2014, 07:03 PM
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Wj 2001 Sticking caliper disguised as DW

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Originally Posted by Jaketit View Post
So as the title states will a sticking caliper cause a shimmy or death wobble. I believe so. Thanks for everyone's help and I'll be waiting for the next problem .
After reading the posts on this thread and after experiencing what I thought was a full on DW, I just wanted to sit down and cry. I LOVE my WJ and I don't have the time/patience/ability/money to do endless troubleshooting. I've had it for 13 years and it's still a beautiful car. The only thing wrong with the body is the wiper arms are starting to lose the black finish ( an easy and relatively cheap fix) and the letters are starting to lose the top plastic film (looks like a bad sunburn), but I'm looking into that.

I was releived to see someone else thinks a sticking caliper could approximate a DW. This was right front passenger and the shop guys couldn't turn the wheel at all. I hope that was it. I've had sticking calipers before and I could smell the heat and hear the clicking when I parked in my garage. I didn't sense any heat or hear clicking with this. I have to say the wobble is gone, but I haven't driven more than 50 miles since I got it back. I guess time will tell.

What I do have is something I didn't have before which is a light shudder for about 15 sec which I feel comes from the rear. Just an impression. Someone did mention recently, rear brakes binding can cause a shudder, but I'll wait until I have the bad fuel injector replaced and then start working on the shudder - maybe it's related.

Diane
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post #41 of 41 Old 06-25-2014, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renne2001
After reading the posts on this thread and after experiencing what I thought was a full on DW, I just wanted to sit down and cry. I LOVE my WJ and I don't have the time/patience/ability/money to do endless troubleshooting. I've had it for 13 years and it's still a beautiful car. The only thing wrong with the body is the wiper arms are starting to lose the black finish ( an easy and relatively cheap fix) and the letters are starting to lose the top plastic film (looks like a bad sunburn), but I'm looking into that. I was releived to see someone else thinks a sticking caliper could approximate a DW. This was right front passenger and the shop guys couldn't turn the wheel at all. I hope that was it. I've had sticking calipers before and I could smell the heat and hear the clicking when I parked in my garage. I didn't sense any heat or hear clicking with this. I have to say the wobble is gone, but I haven't driven more than 50 miles since I got it back. I guess time will tell. What I do have is something I didn't have before which is a light shudder for about 15 sec which I feel comes from the rear. Just an impression. Someone did mention recently, rear brakes binding can cause a shudder, but I'll wait until I have the bad fuel injector replaced and then start working on the shudder - maybe it's related. Diane
. Well I'm glad you found out your near DW source. Yea I remember having the front pass caliper lock up a few times on me before I figured it out. Pretty bewildering at first thinking it was a (strain) of DW. And most times when you lock a caliper, you funk up your rotor pretty good. I replace both front pads,rotors and calipers just to be safe and I've been shimmy free since.
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