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Unread 12-04-2011, 03:35 PM   #16
xJoshxx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scibbyz99WJ View Post
ive recently heard about this in yjs and tjs. will it work for a WJ?
Durango Box's i believe are for ZJ's and others only No WJ love

Top image is a ZJ
middle Durango
Bottom WJ

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Unread 12-05-2011, 02:40 PM   #17
Scibbyz99WJ
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Unread 12-05-2011, 08:20 PM   #18
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When my box went, I looked into the Durango box. That's for ZJ's. The WJ box is pretty stout anyway.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 09:24 AM   #19
wxmanWJ
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Noob here. Thinking of performing this using the tutorial linked earlier in this thread. My question is about this comment I have quoted here. I am assuming buying a new pitman arm will just eliminate the need to remove (pull) it from the old gearbox, thus saving that time- correct? What I am confused about is what the other end of the pitman arm connects to. Is it easy to disconnect that and then when you remove the busted gearbox the pitman arm just comes with it attached, you put the new gearbox in, attach the non-gearbox end of the pitman arm and then attach the pitman arm to the new gearbox? Any help/advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

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Originally Posted by xJoshxx View Post
If your changing the steering box buy a new pitman arm IM TELLING YOU IT WILL SAVE YOU HOURS.

Plus its $20 for a new one. TRUST ME
3/4" inch impact 1500ft/lbs the OEM Pitman Puller. i bought from the dealership and I spent 3 hours nothing heated it nothing melted the oring and set my rig on my fire when the PS fluid hit that oxy torch.

Went on line $20 for a new one like OMFG!
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Unread 06-24-2013, 11:05 AM   #20
devinci
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wxmanWJ View Post
Noob here. Thinking of performing this using the tutorial linked earlier in this thread. My question is about this comment I have quoted here. I am assuming buying a new pitman arm will just eliminate the need to remove (pull) it from the old gearbox, thus saving that time- correct? What I am confused about is what the other end of the pitman arm connects to. Is it easy to disconnect that and then when you remove the busted gearbox the pitman arm just comes with it attached, you put the new gearbox in, attach the non-gearbox end of the pitman arm and then attach the pitman arm to the new gearbox? Any help/advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
1. Yes. Buying the new pitman arm would save the hassle of trying to remove the old one.

2. The other end of the pitman arm connects to a TRE (tie rod end). This TRE is the most difficult of the four to remove because of the location. I used a two jaw puller when I changed mine and was able to make it work. You can rent a puller set from many auto parts stores.

3. I'm not sure about the installation procedure for the new steering box and pitman arm. I would guess that the new pitman arm is installed after the steering box is secured in place? Sorry

I haven't done this yet but I think I might. My steering isn't as responsive or accurate as I would like and I have a bit of wander as well.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 12:49 PM   #21
wxmanWJ
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So I guess this begs the question...is it easier to pull the pitman arm off the steering gearbox using a pitman arm puller, or is it easier to get the tie rod end off because of the location?
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Unread 06-24-2013, 05:28 PM   #22
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Been wondering myself how to tell if the box is bad or not. Just don't have one to compare it too. Sicne my PS pump had to be replaced for seizing up over christmas it just doen't feel right. Seems, at least to me, too stiff, and it won't track back to center when turning. Have to do taht myself. is this normal? Feels like there is a bit of play in it as well and it wanders some which makes it feel dicey at highways speeds, especially if windy. LCA's in the front will be done as soon as they arrive (they supposedly shipped out last week) and we'll see how that improves things. Only other two things I can see that need to be looked at are the TRE on the draglink, or the trackbar bushings are bad, but doesn't seem to be any play there that we've been able to tell.

I did pick one up at the wreckers for $20. Not sure even how to tell it is good but seemed ok on the vehicle before I removed it. As well, the case looks the usually rustiness, but the back part that bolts on looks brand new, so I'm figureing it's a rebuilt unit, which hopefully will be good. If it is, bonus is the pitman arm is on it and hopefully set where it needs to be so it'll be kinda like plug and play. As well the intermediate shaft on it seemed to be good with no play and looks like it was replaced as well. The engine was a rebuild in it, some fairly new looking parts here and there, like someone took care of it when they had it. Thing I'd hate though is go through all the work of switching it and finding it's bad. Never had to deal with one before. Only a steering column swap.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 05:58 PM   #23
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If you can rock the steering wheel back and forth. Watch the steering shaft where it enters the gear box and the pitman arm shaft where it comes out at the same time. If they both move at the same time and no slack between them the box should be good.
Now if the steering feels to tight. Dissconnect the tie rod end at the pitman arm and see if it moves real easy with out it connected. If still tight then bad box.
If moves easy then you have bad Stabilizer, TRE or Ball Joint.

If you need to change the gearbox the pitman arm will come off easier if you heat it with propane tourch before using the puller. No need to worry about the gearbox seal getting to hot if you will be changing it anyway.

I recently changed mine in the parking lot of Autozone in Grand JCT Colorado, while on a trip from the Grand Canyon AZ. It took me about 3 hours total counting taking a break about every 30 min to get a cold drink. With air tools should take a garage about 2 hours.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 06:50 PM   #24
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Yes you can adjust the gearbox. There is an Allen screw on top that can be adjusted when you loosen the nut under it. Dont turn it more than a 1/4 turn before snugging it up and testing it. If you have to turn it more than 1/2 turn, your box is shot. Also, the Pitman Arm is connected to the drag link, not the tie rod, and it is easier to get that side off rather than the Gear box end. Do what a previous poster recommended, buy a new Pitman arm or get one off ebay for $10. I have all kinds of tools and equipment and wound up having to press it off. It's not worth the effort. Do not loose the orientation of the new Pitman arm onto the gear box because you will just have to take it off again if you do. Compare the new to the old. Also, get yourself a factory service manual on disc for 10 bucks if you want to attempt this kind of work. It will make your life easier.
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Unread 06-25-2013, 02:39 AM   #25
cykaaro
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Thanks for the input. Will investigate it further. I know the LCA's are bad, but not sure if anything else is with the steering. Most of the TRE's were new when i got it, and we just did the one side with bad balljoints. Other is fine. UCA's are ok as they were replaced. Now the pitman end of the drag link has a bit of a rip so I don't know if it's shot or not. So I'm dealing with basically that, LCA's, steering box and linkage and even the track bar as possible issues. Maybe a few things working in tandem. Just waiting for the LCA's and once they're in see where things sit and go from there. Will see what I can do about testing the box and what the verdict is. Stabilizer should be fine as it's pretty heavy duty compared to the stock one and less than a year old. Not getting any bump-steer at all. Only time a bump affets is if the wheel is slightly turned when hitting a good sized one, but doesn't happen very often.

The steering box I got from the back end looks new so probably has been rebuilt. Pitman arm is still attached to it. If mine is bad, I'm hoping I can just swap them out. That is as long as the one I got is ok. Seems fine, but guess won't know until I do the swap.

Have read a few posts on the adjustment screw, but as well that it's pretty easy to bugger up the box playing with it.
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Unread 06-25-2013, 08:12 AM   #26
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Just a couple of comments:

I had a clicking in my '99 when I turned the steering wheel to the left. It turned out to be the ball joint on the drag link, where it attaches to the Pitman Arm. I used a puller to remove it. The ball joint was failing, and had about 1/2" of play in it. Glad I caught it before it came apart, and caused a serious accident. I have pulled Pitman Arms, and used a puller and impact gun. I nearly stripped the threads on the puller, as the arm was on the steering shaft, pretty damn tight. At the very least, an impact gun with plenty of air will be needed to reinstall the nut which holds the Pitman Arm to the shaft. It can't be done 'by hand'.

In another case, my steering just wasn't tight. The vehicle didn't wander, the front end just felt sloppy, going over bumps in the road. New front LCAs, UCAs, and axle bushings made a HUGE improvement. As in HUGE. Tight as a ...... well, you know the rest.

Put the front frame up on jack stands, and get down under there with a good light and a prybar. Visually inspect everything for signs of play, and rust. Control Arm bushings seem to fall apart with age (and off roading). Use the prybar to check for play and movement. Grab with you hands and check for looseness in the ball joints.

With regard to the allen screw on the top of the gearbox, I can't remember whether it should be turned CW or CCW to tighten the steering? CW is the logical thought.

Good luck!
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Unread 06-25-2013, 10:04 AM   #27
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The UCA was so bad I could twist it easily by hand on the drivers side. By far it was the worst. Doing the uppers definitely made a difference. Once I get the LCA's on,we'll see how it is then. It's at the very least still part of what the issue is, if not all. Just have a nagging feeling about the box ever since the power steering bump seized. We were checking underneath with a prybar, which is how we found the balljoints on the drives side also had play and got them changed out with the wheel bearing. Will definitely have to check the TRE on the pitman end.
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Unread 06-25-2013, 11:17 AM   #28
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I just remember this clicking when I made a left hand turn, generally at a stop light. The TRE was moving up and down about 1/2". The threads were tight, mind you. It was the ball joint coming apart. Boy was I glad I caught that. Imagine driving down the road at 60mph, turning the steering wheel to the right, and the car goes 'where ever it wants'!

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Originally Posted by cykaaro View Post
Will definitely have to check the TRE on the pitman end.
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Unread 06-25-2013, 12:34 PM   #29
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Doesn't seem to have play in it that's easily noticeable, but with a rip in the boot, who knows what it's doing. Not sure if there's left/right play at all, but back/front seem ok and nto any up/down that I can see.
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Unread 06-25-2013, 01:41 PM   #30
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Good to check even if only for safety purposes. One less thing eliminated in the problem solving process!



Quote:
Originally Posted by cykaaro View Post
Doesn't seem to have play in it that's easily noticeable, but with a rip in the boot, who knows what it's doing. Not sure if there's left/right play at all, but back/front seem ok and nto any up/down that I can see.
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