steering gear box for WJ - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 33 Old 10-20-2011, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
vczar1
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Wj steering gear box for WJ

Went to get an alignment done today, and the shop is telling me that i need a new steering gear box, how can i check if they are saying the truth, and how difficult is it to install a new one.
Found this one, is it a good price?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk.../A1278414.html

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post #2 of 33 Old 10-20-2011, 09:24 PM
Mx121
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I just put one in my 2000 wj and it was pretty easy but I do have an impact wrench and all the tools to do the job. If you have the tools get a manual from Autozone. Takes about 3-4 hours for a mechanic to do it.

The problem I was having with steering was I never had power steering to the Right.

It's hard to explain how to inspect a steering gear box. If the gear that connects to the pitman arm in moving side to side the box is bad.

That price is about the same I paid from Napa Auto parts. The delaership wanted over $600 to install it. Of course there charging you for the install, alignment, new power steering hoses, and a power steering flush.
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post #3 of 33 Old 10-20-2011, 09:37 PM
alifted4x4
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I also replaced mine earlier this year. Mine was right around that price with a lifetime warrenty with Oreilys. They are easy to change once you get the breather box out of your way. There are three bolts that hold it on, you may wanna spray them a day or two before with PB or WD40 to help break them loose.


What reason did they say it was bad?

2000 WJ 6 1/2" lift,IRO Coils, IRO Front ADJ Long Arms, Clayton Rear Long Arms, Bilstein 5100 Shocks, JKS Track bar, JKS Bar Pins, K & N FIPK, 265/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers, 1.5" Wheel Spacers, Addco Rear Sway Bar, IRO Rear Sway Bar Links, Flowmaster 40,2002 Cluster to be continued.....
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post #4 of 33 Old 10-21-2011, 04:07 PM
p-barr
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Buy a pitman gear puller or rent one as that can be hard to pull and a standard two-jaw puller might snap. It took a breaker bar as the impact wheel gun didn't have enough power. Cost of a puller is around $15.

Also buy 5 plastic snaps for the fenders as you will need to peel back the fender liner to remove the washer bottle to get to the bolts on the steering gear box. You will also have to drop the sway bar on the left side to get the bottle out. Lower the suspension and it should swing clear.

Remove the lower hoses on the power steering pump to give more clearance when removing the 25 lb gearbox.

Remove the gear box from the top.

This applies to a 4.7

Make sure you use the approved power steering fuild as this system also works the fan.
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post #5 of 33 Old 10-21-2011, 05:53 PM
xJoshxx
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If your changing the steering box buy a new pitman arm IM TELLING YOU IT WILL SAVE YOU HOURS.

Plus its $20 for a new one. TRUST ME
3/4" inch impact 1500ft/lbs the OEM Pitman Puller. i bought from the dealership and I spent 3 hours nothing heated it nothing melted the oring and set my rig on my fire when the PS fluid hit that oxy torch.

Went on line $20 for a new one like OMFG!

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The SRt-8's are a liberty design.
2011 WK2 ORA2 sold
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99 WJ Limited Lifted.
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post #6 of 33 Old 10-21-2011, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
vczar1
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they told me there is a lot of play in my steering wheel, i don't notice that, it seems the same as i remember from day 1
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post #7 of 33 Old 10-21-2011, 08:46 PM
p-barr
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Sloppy steering could be a number of factors. Jack up your vehicle and check the ball joints too. If your Jeep is high-mileage or has been used as... off-road as a Jeep, bet on the steering gear. If the steering is vaque and you have to constantly correct the wheel, it's the primary suspect.

Autozone.com has a rebuilt unit cheaper, plus lower core charge and they offer free shipping plus a $15 credit if ordered online.

Buying a new Pitman arm would be a wise route as it's a pain pulling the Pitman arm off. You will need to split the ball joint in that case. And... you might need to replace it if you damage the grease seal. A trade off in costs.

Or take it to a shop that knows what it's doing. Save a knuckle or two in the process.
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post #8 of 33 Old 10-25-2011, 05:27 PM
cosmo1
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I have a question. Mine makes a popping noise when I turn the steering wheel. And its got alot of play. I checked the ball joints and they seem to be good. Is the gear box going to be my next thing to check? Is there a way to check?
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post #9 of 33 Old 10-25-2011, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmo1 View Post
I have a question. Mine makes a popping noise when I turn the steering wheel. And its got alot of play. I checked the ball joints and they seem to be good. Is the gear box going to be my next thing to check? Is there a way to check?
No, grab every tie rod end and shake it there should be no UP/DOWN/LEFT/RIGHT movement.

rotational movement is fine IE if you grab the Draglink you should be able to twist it.

Joints would have nothing to do in the large amounts of play.

a good Tie rod will not have any movement
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Sold4" Hybrid lift TeraFlex coils IRO Adjustable LA's Jks tracbar 1.25spidertrax spacers 265/75/16 Dura-tracs
Quote:
Originally Posted by moPowered View Post
The SRt-8's are a liberty design.
2011 WK2 ORA2 sold
2012 WK2 SRT8 - Current
99 WJ Limited Lifted.
2001 WJ stock 4.0 304k miles
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post #10 of 33 Old 10-25-2011, 06:32 PM
cosmo1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xJoshxx

No, grab every tie rod end and shake it there should be no UP/DOWN/LEFT/RIGHT movement.

rotational movement is fine IE if you grab the Draglink you should be able to twist it.

Joints would have nothing to do in the large amounts of play.

a good Tie rod will not have any movement
I replaced the two outer and the right inner this weekend. I didn't change the one on the pitnam arm though. Maybe its that one. Thanks man.
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post #11 of 33 Old 10-25-2011, 10:09 PM
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I put a bunch of install pics in this thread:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...times-1152925/

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post #12 of 33 Old 10-26-2011, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
vczar1
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Wj

Great, thank you, pictures do help.
I was told there is a bolt on the gear box that is used to tighten it up and you can do that a few times before you'll have to replace it??
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post #13 of 33 Old 10-26-2011, 10:24 AM
Cebby
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Yes, there's a bolt on top that you can tighten.

Tech Writeups and more...
2000 WJ Laredo 4.0 4x4 Taupe Frost - Clayton LA Front/Rear | IRO 3" Springs + 3/4" KOR | Bilstein Shocks | JKS Discos/Trackbar/Draglink & Tierod | Dual KOR Stabs | Spidertrax Spacers | 265/70R17 Duratrac's on JK 17's | Black Magic Brakes w/Centric Rotors | Akebono Calipers | Griffin Rad | K&N Drop in | Magnaflow Cat & Muffler shorty setup | Diehard Platinum (Odyssey) | RB1-NAV-Sirius-Chg-iPod | OEM Tow Hooks F/R
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post #14 of 33 Old 10-26-2011, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
vczar1
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Anything special to it?? How much to tighten it?
In another post user advices to buy a box for 99 durango V8 4x4. It will bolt right in and gives you a 1/2" larger diameter piston so that it is stronger, any ideas about this?
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post #15 of 33 Old 12-04-2011, 02:47 PM
Scibbyz99WJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vczar1 View Post
Anything special to it?? How much to tighten it?
In another post user advices to buy a box for 99 durango V8 4x4. It will bolt right in and gives you a 1/2" larger diameter piston so that it is stronger, any ideas about this?
ive recently heard about this in yjs and tjs. will it work for a WJ?

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